应用共聚焦拉曼光谱法对烟酰胺在人体皮肤角质层渗透性的研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.02.004

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

通过对受试者使用含烟酰胺成分的产品不同时间皮肤拉曼光谱的分析,检测烟酰胺在皮肤角质层中的渗透深度及渗透量,对烟酰胺在皮肤角质层内的透皮吸收性能进行评价,验证共聚焦拉曼光谱技术在成分透皮吸收领域应用的可行性。结果表明,烟酰胺的拉曼特征峰在不同基质中具有稳定性,含3%烟酰胺的膏霜涂抹于皮肤后,烟酰胺在皮肤中渗透量随着时间延长而增加,2 h后含量（AUC）约55 520.06。从拉曼光谱及渗透量变化的定性和定量角度表明：含3%烟酰胺的膏霜涂抹于皮肤2 h后,烟酰胺渗透深度约为16 μm。共聚焦拉曼光谱法在烟酰胺的渗透性研究中得到了有效的应用,其研究方法可为化妆品、药品等成分的经皮吸收提供方法参考。

关键词: 烟酰胺, 共聚焦拉曼光谱, 渗透性, 光谱分析, 在体测试

Abstract:

Analyzing and detecting the penetration depth and content of niacinamide in SC （stratum corneum） by skin Raman spectroscopy before and after using products which contained niacinamide was performed to evaluate the penetration ability of niacinamide and validation the feasibility of confocal Raman spectroscopy in transdermal absorption research. The results show that the characteristic peaks in Raman spectrum of niacinamide are stable in different substrates. After the cream containing 3% niacinamide is applied to the skin, the penetration content of niacinamide in SC increases with time and the content （AUC） of niacinamide in SC after 2 h is about 55 520.06. From the qualitative and quantitative perspectives of changes in Raman spectrum and penetration content, it shows that after applying cream with 3% nicotinamide to the skin for 2 h, the penetration depth of nicotinamide is about 16 μm. Confocal Raman spectroscopy is effectively applied in the penetration ability study of niacinamide in SC, and the research method can be a reference for the penetration of cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and other ingredients.

Key words: niacinamide, confocal Raman spectroscopy, penetration, spectrum analysis, in vivo test

中图分类号:

TQ658

刘娟,贾雪婷,杨丽,苏宁,张思华,朱建宇,郑洪艳. 应用共聚焦拉曼光谱法对烟酰胺在人体皮肤角质层渗透性的研究[J]. 日用化学工业, 2021, 51(2): 104-108.

LIU Juan,JIA Xue-ting,YANG Li,SU Ning,ZHANG Si-hua,ZHU Jian-yu,ZHENG Hong-yan. Penetration research of niacinamide in stratum corneum of human skin by confocal Raman spectroscopy[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2021, 51(2): 104-108.

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原料名称	w/%
烟酰胺	3
棕榈酸乙基己酯	5
鲸蜡硬脂醇,鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷	2
辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯	8
鲸蜡硬脂醇	2
凡士林	1
甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯	1
聚二甲基硅氧烷	1.5
碳酸二辛酯	1.5
生育酚乙酸酯	0.5
水	68.7
甘油	4
1,3-丙二醇	4
黄原胶	0.3
苯氧乙醇,乙基己基甘油	0.5