表面活性剂对皮肤的不良反应、评价体系及防护

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.011

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

表面活性剂广泛应用于护肤品和皮肤清洁类产品,但频繁使用或不当接触表面活性剂可导致皮肤刺激、敏感或屏障功能损伤,引起皮肤不良反应。为了皮肤的安全,本文针对表面活性剂作用于皮肤的结构和成分,梳理其作用于皮肤的途径,基于该途径和皮肤症状两个维度建立评价体系,并对减缓表面活性剂刺激的功效成分及其作用原理进行分析总结,为抗敏抗刺激功效成分及温和型表面活性剂体系的研发提供参考。

关键词: 表面活性剂, 皮肤刺激, 抗敏抗刺激, 评价体系, 皮肤防护

Abstract:

Surfactants are widely used in skin care products and cleansers, but frequent use or improper contact with surfactants can cause skin irritation, sensitivity or barrier function damage, causing skin discomfort. For the safety of skin, this article elucidated the mechanism of surfactants on skin from the structure and composition of the skin that surfactants act on. Furthermore, two evaluation systems for surfactant effect on skin were proposed based on mechanism aforementioned and skin symptoms respectively. Lastly, the active ingredients and their action mechanism to lessen surfactants were illustrated. It is hoped to provide references for the research and development of active ingredients and mild surfactant systems for skin protection.

Key words: surfactant, skin irritation mechanism, anti-sensitive and anti-irritant, evaluation system, skin protection

中图分类号:

TQ423

吴文海,何一凡,刘宇红. 表面活性剂对皮肤的不良反应、评价体系及防护[J]. 日用化学工业, 2021, 51(3): 235-242.

WU Wen-hai,HE Yi-fan,LIU Yu-hong. Mechanism, evaluation system and protection of surfactant on skin[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2021, 51(3): 235-242.

图/表 4

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症状	评价指标	评价仪器/方式
皮肤干燥、脱屑	脂质有序性^[1]	拉曼光谱,红外光谱
	水分含量,水分散失,皮肤pH值,皮肤表面油脂^[19,20]	皮肤常规测试仪,拉曼光谱
	皮肤鳞屑指数、皮肤表面粗糙度^[21]	皮肤表面纹理分析仪
皮肤肿胀	角蛋白结构^[11]	拉曼光谱,红外光谱
皮肤肿胀	角质层厚度^[28]	拉曼光谱,皮肤CT
皮肤红斑	细胞炎症因子^[22]	细胞实验,3D皮肤模型
皮肤红斑	皮肤色度^[19],红色素指数^[29]	皮肤常规测试仪
皮肤瘙痒	水分散失,水分含量^[19,20]	皮肤常规测试仪,拉曼光谱
	瘙痒感觉阈值^[30]	电流感觉阈值
	皮肤表面油脂	油脂测试仪

机理	评价指标	评价仪器/方式
机理	评价指标	在体	离体
表面活性剂对细胞间脂质的作用	脂质含量,脂质有序性^[1]	拉曼光谱	拉曼光谱,红外光谱,色谱
表面活性剂对角蛋白的作用	表面活性剂与角蛋白的结合情况^[7,24]	/	玉米醇溶蛋白,牛血清白蛋白,ELISA
表面活性剂对角蛋白的作用	表面活性剂对角蛋白结构的影响	拉曼光谱,红外光谱	拉曼光谱,红外光谱
表面活性剂对天然保湿因子的作用	天然保湿因子含量	拉曼光谱	拉曼光谱,色谱
表面活性剂对活性表皮层的作用	细胞状态,细胞炎症因子,SOD活性,丙二醛含量^[22,23]	/	细胞实验,3D皮肤模型
	自由基含量	电子顺磁场共振光谱	自由基体外清除实验
	细胞膜	/	红细胞溶血实验,鸡胚绒毛尿囊膜实验

分类	两类表面活性剂复配结果
阴/阳离子表面活性剂混合	1.增加胶束尺寸;2.静电斥力互补
阴/阴离子表面活性剂混合	1.多种亲水端和疏水端不同的阴离子表面活性剂混合会增加胶束尺寸;2.疏水端碳链长度差异越大,胶束越稳定
两性/阴离子表面活性剂混合	1.增加泡沫的稳定性;2.在酸性环境中作用与阳离子表面活性剂相同;3.正常环境中,作用与阴离子表面活性剂相同
阴/非离子表面活性剂混合	1.改善洗涤剂性能;2.增加胶束尺寸;3.增加离子表面活性剂极性头部距离,降低静电斥力