基于表观遗传学的皮肤抗衰及相关化妆品的研究与发展

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.014

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

表观遗传学是指不涉及DNA序列改变的基因或者蛋白表达的变化，并可以在发育和细胞增殖过程中稳定传递的遗传学分支学科。表观遗传学与人体皮肤衰老密切相关，其表现为人体皮肤表观遗传修饰的变化。通过研究及利用表观遗传修饰可逆转的特性，能够将表观遗传学的研究应用到皮肤抗衰及抗衰相关化妆品领域当中。文章概述了表观遗传学在皮肤抗衰及化妆品研究与应用当中的主要内容，通过DNA甲基化、组蛋白修饰和微小RNA调控在细胞外基质调节，细胞增殖分化调控，黑色素合成或代谢调节，抗氧化应激能力调节上的表观遗传修饰表现形式及逆转方式，展示了基于表观遗传学的多种皮肤抗衰机制；以及通过人体衰老过程中表观遗传修饰的变化，对皮肤衰老的原因和表征进行解释，为抗衰相关化妆品的研发提供科学依据。本文综述了表观遗传学与皮肤抗衰相关的多种作用机制的关系与表现形式，为皮肤衰老研究提供理论依据，并对未来抗衰相关化妆品的发展进行展望。

关键词: 表观遗传学, 皮肤抗衰, 化妆品, 细胞外基质, 细胞增殖分化, 黑色素, 抗氧化

Abstract:

Epigenetics is a branch of genetics that refers to the changes in gene or protein expression that do not involve changes in DNA sequence and can be stably transmitted during development and cell proliferation. Epigenetics is closely related to human skin aging, which is manifested as the change of human skin epigenetic modification. Through the research and utilization of the reversible characteristics of epigenetic modification, the research of epigenetics can be applied to the field of skin anti-aging and anti-aging related cosmetics. This paper summarizes the main contents of epigenetics in the research and application of skin anti-aging and cosmetics. Through the epigenetic modification manifestations and reversal modes of DNA methylation, including histone modification and microRNA regulation in extracellular matrix regulation, cell proliferation and differentiation regulation, melanin synthesis or metabolism regulation, and antioxidant stress capacity regulation, the various mechanisms of epigenetics in skin anti-aging are shown. It also explains the cause and characterization of skin aging through the changes of epigenetic modification during human aging, providing scientific basis for the research and development of anti-aging cosmetics. This paper reviews the relationship and manifestations of multiple mechanisms of action related to epigenetics and skin anti-aging, providing a theoretical basis for skin aging research and looking forward to the development of anti-aging related cosmetics in the future.

Key words: epigenetics, skin anti-aging, cosmetic, extracellular matrix, cell proliferation and differentiation, melanin, antioxidant

中图分类号:

TQ658

钟美莹, 张浩, 黄琴, 唐文迪, 蓝爱玲. 基于表观遗传学的皮肤抗衰及相关化妆品的研究与发展[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2023, 53(10): 1220-1226.

Zhong Meiying, Zhang Hao, Huang Qin, Tang Wendi, Lan Ailing. Research and development of skin anti-aging and related cosmetics based on epigenetics[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(10): 1220-1226.

图/表 1

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表观遗传学主要内容	皮肤抗衰机制
表观遗传学主要内容	细胞外基质调节	细胞增殖分化调控	黑色素合成或代谢调节	抗氧化应激能力调节
DNA甲基化	通过DNA的甲基化或去甲基化，调控Ⅰ型胶原蛋白的合成或成纤维细胞的凋亡	—	—	通过调节DNMTs的表达水平，防御UVA诱导的ROS皮肤损伤和光老化
组蛋白修饰	Sirt1通过去乙酰化，降低皮肤中MMP-9的表达，减少ECM相关蛋白的降解	Myc通过诱导和修饰相关组蛋白，调控表皮干细胞的增殖分化特性	—	SIRT3通过上调线粒体SOD2的表达，防御UVB诱导的ROS皮肤损伤；SIRT1通过调控FOXO信号通路，启动细胞抗氧化途径
微小RNA调控	通过miR-152、miR-181a、miR-34家族、miR-29家族及miR-424等的差异性表达，调控Ⅰ型胶原蛋白合成或成纤维细胞增殖或衰老进程	—	miR-145，miR-218，miR-675，miR-141-3p和miR-200a-3p等通过对Myo5a或Mitf的直接靶向作用，调控黑素体运输或黑色素生成的色素过程	—