常用化妆品成型技术（Ⅰ）— 油水一家：乳剂

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.07.002

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

乳剂一般是指一种或一种以上液体以小液滴的形式分散在另一种与之不相混溶的液体连续相中所构成的一类不均匀分散体系的液体剂型,常被用作活性及功能成分的载体或基质,已广泛应用于日化、纺织、皮革、造纸、采油、农药、高分子合成、食品、医药等多个行业领域。随着人们环境、生态观念的提升和对高品质健康生活的需求,生物相容性良好、可生物降解的环境友好型特色乳剂越来越受到关注。本文介绍了乳剂的组成和种类、乳化剂的选择原则和方法、乳剂的形成原理和制备影响因素,并有选择地介绍了近年来乳剂在化妆品及日化相关领域中比较有特色的应用情况。

关键词: 乳剂, 微乳液, 化妆品, 制备, 应用

Abstract:

Emulsions are generally made out of two immiscible fluids, one being dispersed in the other, in the presence of surface-active agents. They are obtained by shearing two immiscible fluids, leading to the fragmentation of one phase into the other. The droplet volume fraction may vary from zero to almost one. From diluted to highly concentrated, emulsions exhibit very different internal dynamics and mechanical properties. Emulsion droplets of oil-in-water or water-in-oil typically fall in the range of 0.1-10 μm, whereas microemulsion droplets are in the 0.01-0.1 μm size range. Usually used as the carrier or matrix of active and functional ingredients, emulsions have been widely applied to daily chemical industry, textiles, leather, papermaking, oil-recovery, pesticides, polymerization, food, medicine and other industries. With the people’s concept of environment-friendly, the concern of ecology, and the demand for high quality and healthy life, eco-friendly functional emulsions with good biocompatibility and biodegradability have becoming more and more valued. Herein, the composition and types of emulsions, the principles and methods of selecting emulsifiers, the mechanism of emulsion preparation, and the various influence factors of emulsifying process are introduced. Furthermore, some special applications of emulsion in cosmetics and daily chemical industry in recent years are also mentioned.

Key words: emulsion, microemulsion, cosmetic, preparation, application

中图分类号:

TQ658

冯云,石晶,包杰,郝旸,徐桂云,范金石. 常用化妆品成型技术（Ⅰ）— 油水一家：乳剂[J]. 日用化学工业, 2022, 52(7): 696-703.

Feng Yun,Shi Jing,Bao Jie,Hao Yang,Xu Guiyun,Fan Jinshi. Common cosmetic preparation technologies（Ⅰ）Oil-water mixture: Emulsions[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2022, 52(7): 696-703.

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种类	特征	举例
表面活性剂类乳化剂	①乳化能力强。分子中有较强的亲水基和亲油基;②性质比较稳定。容易在液滴周围形成单分子乳化膜;③混合使用效果更好	①阴离子型乳化剂：硬脂酸钠、硬脂酸钾、油酸钠、油酸钾、硬脂酸钙、十二烷基硫酸钠;②非离子型乳化剂：单脂肪酸甘油酯、平平加1~20、乳化剂OP
天然乳化剂	①主要形成水包油乳剂。因其亲水性强;②多数有较大黏度,增加乳剂稳定性;③使用此乳化剂需添加防腐剂	阿拉伯胶、明胶、杏树胶、卵黄、桃胶、海藻酸钠、酪蛋白
固体微粒乳化剂	①接触角<90°时,形成O/W乳剂;②接触角>90°时,形成W/O乳剂	O/W型乳化剂：氢氧化镁、氢氧化铝、二氧化硅、皂土;W/O型乳化剂：氢氧化钙、氢氧化锌、硬脂酸镁
辅助乳化剂	与主要乳化剂合用,提高乳化剂黏度,增强乳剂稳定性	①增强水相黏度的辅助乳化剂：羧甲基纤维素钠、羟丙基纤维素、果胶、瓜尔胶;②增强油相黏度的辅助乳化剂：鲸蜡醇、蜂蜡、单硬脂酸甘油酯

参数	乳剂	纳米乳剂	微乳液
形成过程	机械或手动搅拌	超声波和高压均质处理	自发
稳定性	动力学稳定	动力学稳定	热力学稳定
液滴大小/μm	0.5~50	0.05~0.50	0.01~0.10
外观	不透明（浑浊）	透明或不透明	透明
比表面积/（m²/g）	~15	50~100	~200
界面张力	低	低	极低
系统类型	W/O,O/W或W/O/W,O/W/O	W/O或O/W	W/O,O/W,双连续体系
乳化剂浓度	低	中	高
辅助乳化剂类型	无	长链脂肪醇	短链脂肪醇

HLB值	水溶液外观
1~ 4	不分散
3~ 6	不良分散
6~ 8	搅拌后成乳液分散
8~10	稳定乳状液分散
10~13	半透明至透明
13~20	透明溶液

HLB值	用途
3~ 6	W/O型乳化剂
7~ 9	润湿剂
8~18	O/W型乳化剂
13~15	洗涤剂
15~18	增溶剂

界面膜	乳化剂	特性
单分子膜	表面活性剂	乳化剂吸附在水油两相界面上,除明显降低界面张力之外,规则排列而成的单分子膜也可有效阻止分散相小液滴的合并。但单分子膜容易破裂
多分子膜	亲水胶	亲水胶不能明显地降低界面张力,却能形成机械强度较大的多分子膜,有效阻止液滴合并,并可通过调节pH值,使乳化剂处于稠度最大的状态而增加膜的强度。亲水胶也可以增大水相为外相时的黏度,利于乳剂的稳定。但有些亲水胶成膜能力弱,不能单独作为乳化剂使用
固体微粒膜	极其细微的固体粉末	对水相、油相都有一定程度湿润的固体颗粒可聚集在两相界面间形成固体微粒膜,避免分散相小液滴的彼此接触、合并。此外,固体微粒应比分散液滴小得多才能形成有效的界面膜