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    2022年, 第52卷, 第7期 刊出日期:2022-07-22 上一期    下一期
    基础研究
    SDBS/(C12-4-C12)Br2复配微乳液相行为影响因素研究
    Study on the influencing factors of phase behavior of SDBS/(C12-4-C12)Br2 microemulsion
    廖建军,李华斌,邓金玭,何刚,郭程飞
    2022 (7):  689-695.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.07.001
    摘要 ( 244 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF(1154KB) ( 226 )  

    微乳液因其优良特性被广泛应用于三次采油、化妆品、食品工业等领域。为了探究阴/阳离子表面活性剂复配微乳液体系的相行为影响因素,研究了SDBS与(C12-4-C12)Br2的最佳摩尔比以及盐度、表面活性剂质量分数、油水比的影响。研究表明,对于SDBS-(C12-4-C12)Br2/正丁醇/NaCl/水/煤油体系,增溶参数随着SDBS与(C12-4-C12)Br2摩尔比的增加呈现先增加后减小的趋势,最终确定SDBS与(C12-4-C12)Br2的最佳摩尔比为0.7∶1。盐扫实验中,随着NaCl质量分数的增加,体系呈现出Winsor Ⅰ型→Winsor Ⅲ型→Winsor Ⅱ型的相态转变。油扫实验中,随着油水比的增加,当NaCl质量分数较低时,体系发生由胶团溶液到Winsor Ⅰ型的转变;当NaCl质量分数足够高时,体系呈现出Winsor Ⅱ型→Winsor Ⅲ型→Winsor Ⅰ型的相态转变。此外Winsor Ⅲ型微乳液形成和消失所需要的油量随着NaCl和复合表面活性剂的质量分数增加而增加。

    Microemulsions are widely used in tertiary oil recovery, cosmetics, food industry and other fields due to their excellent properties. By mixing anionic and cationic surfactants, a microemulsion system with excellent performance could be prepared. The factors influencing the phase behavior of the microemulsion system of mixed anionic/cationic surfactants, such as the molar ratio of SDBS to (C12-4-C12)Br2, salinity, surfactant mass fraction, and oil-water ratio, were studied. The results show that, for the SDBS-(C12-4-C12)Br2/n-butanol/NaCl/water/kerosene system, the solubilization parameter shows a trend of first increase and then decrease with the increase of the molar ratio. The optimal molar ratio of SDBS to (C12-4-C12)Br2 is 0.7∶1. In the experiments to investigate the effects of salt, the oil-water ratio was fixed to 1∶1, and the mass fractions of mixed surfactants were 2%, 3%, 4% and 5%, respectively. With the increase of NaCl mass fraction, all systems show the phase transition from Winsor Ⅰ→Winsor Ⅲ→Winsor Ⅱ. In the experiments to investigate the effects of oil, the mass fraction of mixed surfactants was fixed to 4%, and the mass fractions of NaCl were 0.50%, 1.30% and 1.65%, respectively. With the increase of the oil-water ratio, when the NaCl mass fraction was 0.50%, the system changed from micellar solution to Winsor Ⅰ type; when the NaCl mass fractions were 1.30% and 1.65%, the two systems showed the phase transition from Winsor Ⅱ→Winsor Ⅲ→Winsor Ⅰ. When the NaCl mass fraction was fixed to 1.30% and the mass fractions of mixed surfactants were 3%, 4% and 5% respectively, with the increase of the oil-water ratio, all systems showed the phase transition from Winsor Ⅱ→Winsor Ⅲ→Winsor Ⅰ. In addition, the amounts of oil required for the formation and disappearance of Winsor Ⅲ microemulsion increased with the mass fractions of NaCl and mixed surfactants.

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    科技讲座
    常用化妆品成型技术(Ⅰ)— 油水一家:乳剂
    Common cosmetic preparation technologies(Ⅰ)Oil-water mixture: Emulsions
    冯云,石晶,包杰,郝旸,徐桂云,范金石
    2022 (7):  696-703.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.07.002
    摘要 ( 365 )   HTML ( 37 )   PDF(1029KB) ( 531 )  

    乳剂一般是指一种或一种以上液体以小液滴的形式分散在另一种与之不相混溶的液体连续相中所构成的一类不均匀分散体系的液体剂型,常被用作活性及功能成分的载体或基质,已广泛应用于日化、纺织、皮革、造纸、采油、农药、高分子合成、食品、医药等多个行业领域。随着人们环境、生态观念的提升和对高品质健康生活的需求,生物相容性良好、可生物降解的环境友好型特色乳剂越来越受到关注。本文介绍了乳剂的组成和种类、乳化剂的选择原则和方法、乳剂的形成原理和制备影响因素,并有选择地介绍了近年来乳剂在化妆品及日化相关领域中比较有特色的应用情况。

    Emulsions are generally made out of two immiscible fluids, one being dispersed in the other, in the presence of surface-active agents. They are obtained by shearing two immiscible fluids, leading to the fragmentation of one phase into the other. The droplet volume fraction may vary from zero to almost one. From diluted to highly concentrated, emulsions exhibit very different internal dynamics and mechanical properties. Emulsion droplets of oil-in-water or water-in-oil typically fall in the range of 0.1-10 μm, whereas microemulsion droplets are in the 0.01-0.1 μm size range. Usually used as the carrier or matrix of active and functional ingredients, emulsions have been widely applied to daily chemical industry, textiles, leather, papermaking, oil-recovery, pesticides, polymerization, food, medicine and other industries. With the people’s concept of environment-friendly, the concern of ecology, and the demand for high quality and healthy life, eco-friendly functional emulsions with good biocompatibility and biodegradability have becoming more and more valued. Herein, the composition and types of emulsions, the principles and methods of selecting emulsifiers, the mechanism of emulsion preparation, and the various influence factors of emulsifying process are introduced. Furthermore, some special applications of emulsion in cosmetics and daily chemical industry in recent years are also mentioned.

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    开发与应用
    天山雪莲多糖外用对特异性皮炎小鼠的改善作用研究
    Study on the improvement effects of Saussurea involucrata polysaccharide on atopic dermatitis in mice by external application
    刘光荣,敢小双,太美灵,韩萍,阿吉艾克拜尔·艾萨,杜志云
    2022 (7):  704-709.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.07.003
    摘要 ( 222 )   HTML ( 24 )   PDF(1050KB) ( 238 )  

    研究天山雪莲多糖对特异性皮炎(AD)小鼠的作用及调控机制。外用2,4-二硝基氟苯(DNFB)反复诱导建立昆明小鼠AD模型,40只小鼠,每组8只,随机分为:空白组、模型组、阳性泼尼松龙组和天山雪莲多糖剂量组(质量浓度为100和500 μg/mL)。记录各组小鼠皮损情况,检测小鼠经皮失水率,观察皮损组织的病理学,ELISA法测定天山雪莲多糖高剂量组皮损组织中IL-6,IL-4,IL-13,Ig E,TNF-a,NOD 1,TLR-2,CRAMPS的水平。相对于模型组,外用天山雪莲多糖处理小鼠皮肤特异性皮炎湿疹样得到明显改善,经皮失水率显著降低,HE染色病理图片的表皮层厚度显著降低,皮肤组织中Th2相关的细胞因子IL-6,IL-4,IL-13和Ig E的表达均显著下降(P<0.01),同时TLR受体调控相关的因子NOD 1,TLR-2,TNF-α的蛋白表达均显著降低(P<0.01),CRAMPS含量显著升高(P<0.05)。结果表明,天山雪莲多糖通过调控TLR-2和Th2相关细胞因子的表达,改善了AD模型小鼠的皮损,为天山雪莲多糖在预防和治疗特异性皮炎制剂中的应用提供数据支持。

    The therapeutic effect and its possible mechanism of Saussurea involucrata polysaccharide on atopic dermatitis (AD) in mice were studied. The polysaccharide of Saussurea involucrata was obtained by water extraction and alcohol precipitation process. The content of crude polysaccharide was determined. The atopic dermatitis model in mice was established with topical 2, 4-dinitrofluorobenzene (DNFB). 40 Mice were randomly divided into blank group, model group, prednisolone positive group, and low-dose and high-dose Saussurea involucrata polysaccharide groups (100 and 500 μg/mL, respectively). The skin lesions of each group of mice were recorded; the transepidermal water loss of the mice was tested; the lesions were stained with hematoxylin-eosin to observe the pathological characteristics; the expression levels of IL-6, IL-4, IL-13, Ig E, TNF-α, NOD 1, TLR-2 and CRAMPS in the skin lesions were determined by ELISA method. The results show that the content of Saussurea involucrata polysaccharide prepared in this experiment is 28.23%. Saussurea involucrate polysaccharide could effectively alleviate the skin symptoms of mice with DNFB-induced atopic dermatitis. The transepidermal water loss and the thickness of the epidermal layer are both reduced. The high-dose group of Saussurea involucrata polysaccharide was selected for cytokine detection. Compared with the model group, the expression levels of Th2-related cytokines IL-6 (P<0.01), IL-4 (P<0.01), IL-13 (P<0.01) and Ig E in the skin of mice (P<0.01) are effectively reduced for the Saussurea involucrate polysaccharide group. Meanwhile, the Saussurea involucrate polysaccharide group regulates the cytokines of the innate immune pathway, significantly reduces the expression levels of TLR-2 (P<0.01), NOD1 (P<0.01) and TNF-α (P<0.01), and significantly increases the expression level of CRAMPS (P<0.05). The present study shows that, through inhibiting the cytokines IL-4 and IL-13 in Th2 inflammatory response process in atopic dermatitis, and through regulating the secretion and release of the innate immunity regulator of TLR-2, the inflammatory response in AD model mice is thereby inhibited.

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    PR-CS/γ-PGA纳米胶囊的制备和表征
    Preparation and characterization of PR-CS/γ-PGA nanocapsules
    张婉萍,吴凯翔,蒋汶,张冬梅
    2022 (7):  710-716.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.07.004
    摘要 ( 184 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF(1319KB) ( 232 )  

    以壳聚糖(CS)和聚谷氨酸(γ-PGA)为壁材,采用离子凝胶法制备包覆苯乙基间苯二酚(PR)壳聚糖/聚谷氨酸(PR-CS/γ-PGA)纳米胶囊,提高PR的稳定性。研究了γ-PGA质量浓度、CS溶液pH以及PR质量浓度对包覆PR-CS/γ-PGA纳米胶囊粒径大小、Zeta电位和包覆率的影响。研究结果表明,体系中CS质量浓度为1.33 mg/mL时,制备PR-CS/γ-PGA的最佳条件:CS溶液pH为4.5,γ-PGA质量浓度为0.27 mg/mL,PR质量浓度为0.4 mg/mL,反应时磁力搅拌速度为400 r/min,γ-PGA滴加速度为0.5 mL/min,反应时间为1 h。通过对PR-CS/γ-PGA纳米胶囊进行系统表征:TEM扫描表明,PR-CS/γ-PGA纳米胶囊呈球形。FT-IR分析表明,CS与γ-PGA之间发生静电相互作用形成CS/γ-PGA纳米胶囊,且PR-CS/γ-PGA纳米胶囊中含有PR。TGA曲线表明,CS/γ-PGA纳米胶囊可以提高PR的热稳定性,PR-CS/γ-PGA纳米胶囊成功包覆了PR。

    Encapsulated phenylethyl resorcinol chitosan/polyglutamic acid (PR-CS/γ-PGA) nanocapsules were prepared by ionic gelation method with chitosan (CS) and polyglutamic acid (γ-PGA) as wall materials. The effects of the mass concentration of γ-PGA, the pH of the CS solution and the mass concentration of PR on the particle size, Zeta potential and encapsulation rate of PR-CS/γ-PGA nanocapsules were studied. The results showed that, with the increase of γ-PGA concentration, the particle size of the suspension of PR-CS/γ-PGA nanocapsules was decreased, and the Zeta potential was also decreased. The encapsulation rate of PR-CS/γ-PGA nanocapsules was first decreased and then increased (the encapsulation rate was the largest when the mass concentration of γ-PGA was 0.27 mg/mL), and if the mass concentration of γ-PGA was further increased, the encapsulation rate was not significantly changed. With the increase of PR mass concentration, the particle size of the suspension of PR-CS/γ-PGA nanocapsules was increased and the Zeta potential was decreased. The encapsulation rate of PR-CS/γ-PGA nanocapsules was reduced. As the pH of the CS solution was increased, the particle size of the suspension of PR-CS/γ-PGA nanocapsules was first decreased and then increased (the particle size was the smallest when pH=4.5), and the Zeta potential was decreased. The encapsulation rate of PR-CS/γ-PGA nanocapsules was not significantly changed. When the CS concentration in the system was 1.33 mg/mL, the optimized conditions for preparing PR-CS/γ-PGA nanocapsules were as follows: the pH of CS solution was 4.5, the mass concentration of γ-PGA was 0.27 mg/mL, the mass concentration of PR was 0.4 mg/mL, the magnetic stirring speed was 400 r/min during the reaction, the speed of adding γ-PGA was 0.5 mL/min, and the reaction time was 1 h. Systematic characterization of the PR-CS/γ-PGA nanocapsules was made. TEM results showed that the PR-CS/γ-PGA nanocapsules were spherical. FT-IR analysis showed that the electrostatic interaction between CS and γ-PGA formed CS/γ-PGA nanocapsules, and the PR-CS/γ-PGA nanocapsules contained PR. The TGA curve showed that CS/γ-PGA nanocapsules could improve the thermal stability of PR, and PR-CS/γ-PGA nanocapsules successfully encapsulated PR.

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    磁性碳基固体酸制备及其在糖苷合成中的应用研究
    Study on preparation method of magnetic carbon-based solid acid and its application in glycoside synthesis
    喻红梅,周峰,华平,李建华,钱锋
    2022 (7):  717-723.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.07.005
    摘要 ( 159 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF(1349KB) ( 188 )  

    以四氧化三铁为磁核,可溶性淀粉为基质,对甲苯磺酸为磺酸基来源,分别采用分步法和一步法制得磁性碳基固体酸催化剂Fe3O4/C-SO3H(A)和Fe3O4/C-SO3H(B)。利用SEM、XRD、FT-IR、TG、振动样品磁强计(简称VSM)等手段对催化剂进行表征,并将两种催化剂的活性进行比较,活性好的催化剂应用于辛基葡萄糖苷的合成。结果发现,Fe3O4/C-SO3H(A)为核壳结构,粒径大小约为30 nm;Fe3O4/C-SO3H(B)表现为具有一定多孔结构的无定形颗粒物;两种催化剂均具有较好的热稳定性和磁学性能。相比于Fe3O4/C-SO3H(B),Fe3O4/C-SO3H(A)在酸含量、葡萄糖转化率上表现更佳,因此选用Fe3O4/C-SO3H(A)作为辛基葡萄糖苷的合成催化剂。当Fe3O4/C-SO3H(A)用量为葡萄糖质量7%,正辛醇和葡萄糖的摩尔比为9∶1,反应温度为140 ℃时,葡萄糖转化率可达到98.5%。催化剂可通过简单的磁场分离进行重复利用,重复使用3次后,葡萄糖的转化率仍在92%以上。

    Fe3O4/C-SO3H(A) and Fe3O4/C-SO3H(B) were magnetic carbon-based solid acid catalysts. Fe3O4/C-SO3H(A) was synthesized by step-by-step method. Fe3O4/C-SO3H(B) was synthesized by one-step method. They were prepared by ferric oxide, biomass carbon and sulfonic acid source. Ferric oxide was the magnetic core, while soluble starch was the matrix, and p-toluenesulfonic acid was the source of sulfonic acid group. The structure of the catalysts was characterized by SEM, XRD,FT-IR, TG and Vibrating Sample Magnetometer (VSM). The synthesis of octyl glucoside was used as a probe. The activity of the catalyst was measured by the conversion of glucose and catalyst acid content. The activity of two catalysts was compared, the catalyst with good activity was applied to the synthesis of octyl glucoside, and the synthesis conditions of octyl glucoside were optimized. The optimization factors were investigated, such as the amount of catalyst, the mole ratio of octanol to glucose, the reaction temperature, the structure of octyl glucoside and the repeatability of catalyst. The results show that the crystal structure of Fe3O4 magnetic particles has not changed significantly after carbonization and sulfonation. Fe3O4 magnetic particles still retain good magnetic properties, and can be quickly separated from the system under the action of external magnetic field. Catalyst Fe3O4/C-SO3H(A) is a core-shell structure with a particle size of about 30 nm. Fe3O4/C-SO3H(B) is amorphous particles with porous structure. Both catalysts have good thermal stability and magnetic properties. The acid content of Fe3O4/C-SO3H(A) is 1.17 mmol/g, and the glucose conversion rate in the probe reaction is 97.9%. The acid content of Fe3O4/C-SO3H(B) is 0.91 mmol/g, and the glucose conversion rate in the probe reaction is 95.4%. Compared with Fe3O4/C-SO3H (B), Fe3O4/C-SO3H (A) has better performance in acid content, and glucose conversion. Therefore, Fe3O4/C-SO3H(A) is selected as the catalyst for the synthesis of octyl glucoside. Fe3O4/C-SO3H(A) is used for octyl glucoside process optimization. When the amount of Fe3O4/C-SO3H(A) is 7% (w/%) of glucose, the molar ratio of n-octanol to glucose is 9 to 1, and the reaction temperature is 140 ℃, the conversion rate of glucose can reach 98.5%. The catalyst can be reused by simple magnetic field separation. After repeated using 3 times, the conversion rate of the glucose reaches more than 92%.

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    河南油田耐高温稠油乳化降黏剂优选及乳化机理研究
    Optimization and emulsification mechanism of emulsified viscosity reducer with high temperature resistance for heavy oil in Henan Oilfield
    赵一潞,程红晓,徐丽娜,王晓东,赵长喜,李新丹,任虹
    2022 (7):  724-730.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.07.006
    摘要 ( 172 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF(1187KB) ( 230 )  

    针对河南油田稠油黏度高、流动性差的问题,对一系列不同类型、不同质量分数的乳化降黏剂配方进行优选,进而研究了高温条件下乳化降黏剂的性能,并探究了最佳降黏剂配方的乳化机理。结果表明,优选出的最佳乳化降黏剂配方为0.4%(w/%)的BY-2,在油水比为7∶3,油藏温度50 ℃条件下,可产生优异的乳化降黏效果,稠油降黏率高达97.36%。此外,高温对乳化降黏剂的影响较小,在300 ℃下老化6 h仍能保持优异的油/水界面活性和乳化效果。乳化降黏剂中的碱性组分可与稠油中的石油酸原位生成表面活性物质,进而产生协同增效作用,显著降低油/水界面张力,提升乳化降黏效果。本研究为稠油油田耐高温乳化降黏剂的研制提供了技术支撑。

    With the widely exploitation and development of conventional oil reservoirs, the heavy oil has become the important resources in oil production and attracted great attentions to be the solution of the energy crisis in our country. The heavy oil is usually exploited by thermal and emulsification methods to decrease the viscosity, which require the emulsified viscosity reducer with excellent performance under high temperature conditions. Therefore, aimed at the problems of high viscosity and poor fluidity for heavy oil in Henan Oilfield, several emulsified viscosity reducers were investigated at different types and concentrations to obtain an optimum formula. Then, the emulsification performance of the optimum viscosity reducer under high temperature was further tested to study its temperature resistance ability. Finally, the emulsification mechanisms were explored by investigating the pH values, surficial tensions (SFT) and oil/water interfacial tensions (IFT). The results show that the optimum formulation of emulsion viscosity reducer is BY-2 with the mass fraction of 0.4%. The emulsified viscosity reduction rate of the heavy oil can reach up to 97.36% under the reservoirs conditions of 50 ℃ and oil/water volume ratio of 7∶3. Moreover, the viscosity reducer exhibits excellent ability of high temperature resistance. It can maintain effective oil/water interfacial activity and emulsification ability after aging 6 h at 300 ℃, which is beneficial to apply in thermal recovery process for heavy oil. The alkaline components in the emulsified viscosity reducer can form the in-situ surfactant with petroleum acids in heavy oil, thereby producing synergistic effects to significantly reduce the SFT, oil/water IFT and improve the emulsification performance. Consequently, this study can provide technical support for the research and development of emulsified viscosity reducer with properties of efficient viscosity reduction and high temperature resistance for heavy oilfields.

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    翅果油纳米乳的制备及抗氧化性能的研究
    Preparation and antioxidant properties of Elaeagnus mollis Diels seed oil nanoemulsions
    赵志娟,公培龙,王霞辉,于佳卉,刘晓妹
    2022 (7):  731-736.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.07.007
    摘要 ( 204 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF(1069KB) ( 326 )  

    采用自乳化成型技术制备翅果油纳米乳,考察其理化特性,并对其抗氧化性能进行评价。纳米乳外观均匀,粒径大小分布均一,分散指数(PDI)、pH值、电导率等均表明其理化特性良好。纳米乳稳定性测试分别在4 ℃冰箱和25 ℃常温存储、转速3 000和6 000 r/min离心、稀释10倍和100倍条件下进行,粒径均未有明显改变,且未发生分层、浑浊及沉淀析出的现象,表明其稳定性良好。通过DPPH自由基清除实验和羟基自由基清除实验验证纳米乳的抗氧化性能,显示翅果油纳米乳及翅果油对DPPH自由基和羟基自由基的清除能力均呈现随着质量浓度增加而逐渐增强的趋势,且纳米乳的DPPH自由基清除能力和羟基自由基的清除能力均优于同质量浓度的翅果油,表明翅果油纳米乳具有更优的抗氧化能力。本研究的纳米乳可以作为一种稳定和潜在的载体形式,提高药物或活性成分的抗氧化性能,也可以为翅果油的开发应用提供研究基础。

    Nanotechnology has practical and potential application value in various fields. Recently, the nanoemulsion, a spontaneous emulsification delivery system has attracted increasing attention, which is composed of oil phase, surfactant, cosurfactant and water phase. An Elaeagnus mollis Diels seed oil nanoemulsion was constructed by self-nanoemulsifying method and its characterization and antioxidant activity were evaluated. The appearance, particle size, particle size distribution and pH value of the nanoemulsion were all showed that the nanoemulsion was qualified. The stability determination of nanoemulsion was tested under different conditions respectively, and the change in particle size was not obvious, and no delamination, turbidity and precipitation occurred, which suggested that the nanoemulsion possessed a good stability. DPPH radical scavenging experiment and hydroxyl radical scavenging experiment were conducted to verify the antioxidant activity of the nanoemulsion. The scavenging ability of Elaeagnus mollis Diels seed oil nanoemulsion and Elaeagnus mollis Diels seed oil to DPPH free radical was increased with the concentration increasing, and the scavenging ability of the nanoemulsion was better than that of the oil. At the same time, the scavenging ability of the nanoemulsion to hydroxyl radicals was significantly stronger than that of Elaeagnus mollis Diels seed oil. Nanoemulsion has smaller particle size, larger specific surface area, which is beneficial to the improvement of drug solubility, stability and antioxidant activity. Nanoemulsion is a promising delivery system, which can provide experimental basis for the application of Elaeagnus mollis Diels seed oil.

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    一种高纯度伊利石的制备及其应用
    Preparation and application of highly purified illite
    何广文,颜少慰,余斌
    2022 (7):  737-743.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.07.008
    摘要 ( 333 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF(1236KB) ( 224 )  

    采用湿法提纯技术成功地制备了一种具有高纯度的伊利石矿物。通过优化磨矿浓度、进口流量和沉降时间确定了高纯度伊利石的提纯工艺;通过重金属检测确定了伊利石的安全性能;通过扫描电镜、红外光谱、X射线衍射和粒度分析表征了伊利石的结构和纯度;以提纯的伊利石为原料制备了一种伊利石泥浆面膜并探索其化妆品功效。提纯结果表明,当磨矿浓度(矿和水的质量比)为80%、进口流量15 m3/h、初级沉降时间24 h、二级沉降时间72 h时伊利石提纯效果最佳,精矿中伊利石含量从41%提升至94%;重金属检测结果显示制得的伊利石重金属含量明显低于限定值,体现出优良的安全性;结构表征显示提纯后的精矿减少了颗粒状杂质,呈现出典型的鳞片状结构,且伊利石的粒径显著减小,说明原矿中的杂质得到有效去除;伊利石泥浆面膜的化妆品功效验证表明,相较于常规泥浆面膜,伊利石面膜具有较强的油脂去除能力,相较于常规洁面乳又兼具清洁力与温和性,体现出伊利石在化妆品领域的应用潜力。

    A kind of highly purified illite was successfully prepared via the wet purification. The purification process was optimized by investigating grinding concentration, inlet flow rate, primary settling time and secondary settling time. The safety of illite was confirmed by heavy metal detection. Scanning electron microscopy, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction and particle size analysis were used to observe the structure and properties of purified illite. A mud mask was prepared with the purified illite, and the skin sensation and efficacy of the mud mask were investigated. The content of purified illite was increased from 41% to 94% when the grinding concentration (mass ratio of ore to water) was 80%, the inlet flow rate was 15 m3/h, the primary settling time was 24 hours and the secondary settling time was 72 hours. The results of heavy metal detection indicated that the content of heavy metals in the illite obtained was obviously below the limit value, indicative of excellent safety. The SEM and FT-IR results showed that the purified illite had a typical scaly structure and the impurities were effectively removed. The XRD results confirmed that the content of purified illite was 94%. The skin sensation and efficacy results illustrated that, the purified illite had the potential and prospect in preparing mud masks.

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    黄金微针联合可复美面膜对玫瑰痤疮患者症状、皮肤生理功能及预后的影响
    Effect of gold microneedle combined with Kefumei mask on symptoms, skin physiological function and prognosis of patients with rosacea
    崔秀华,高伟涛,武庆梅,苏子新,孙崇秋
    2022 (7):  744-749.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.07.009
    摘要 ( 297 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF(977KB) ( 238 )  

    研究黄金微针联合可复美面膜对玫瑰痤疮患者症状、皮肤生理功能、预后的影响。选取2019年8月~2021年8月本院142例玫瑰痤疮患者,随机数字表法分组,各71例。对照组采取黄金微针,观察组基于对照组采取可复美面膜,均治疗4周。统计两组治疗效果、不良反应及治疗前后症状评分、皮肤生理指标(经皮水分流失量(TEWL)、表皮含水量、油脂)、角质层完整性指标(粘脱蛋白含量、丝氨酸蛋白活性)、痤疮特异性生活质量量表(Acne-QOL)。结果显示,观察组治疗总有效率高于对照组(P<0.05);治疗2周后、4周后观察组红斑、潮红、毛细血管扩张评分均低于对照组(P<0.05);治疗4周后观察组TEWL、丝氨酸蛋白活性、粘脱蛋白含量低于对照组,油脂、表皮含水量高于对照组(P<0.05);观察组不良反应发生率与对照组比较,差异无统计学意义(P>0.05);治疗4周后两组Acne-QOL评分均高于治疗前(P<0.05)。黄金微针联合可复美面膜有助于改善玫瑰痤疮患者皮肤生理功能,修复角质层,缓解临床症状,且安全性较高。

    To investigate the effect of gold microneedle combined with Kefumei mask on symptoms, skin physiological function and prognosis of patients with rosacea were studied. A total of 142 patients with rosacea in our hospital from August 2019 to August 2021 were selected and randomly divided into different groups, with 71 cases in each group. The control group took gold micro-needling, while the observation group took Kefumei mask after gold micro-needling treatment, and both were treated for 4 weeks. The treatment effect, adverse reactions, symptom scores before and after treatment were recorded, including skin physiological indexes (transepidermal water loss (TEWL), epidermal water content, oil), stratum corneum integrity indexes (mucoprotein content, serine protein activity), and Acne-specific quality of life scale (Acne-QOL). The total effective rate of treatment in the observation group was higher than that in the control group (P<0.05). After 2 weeks and 4 weeks of treatment, the scores of erythema, flushing and telangiectasia in the observation group were lower than those in the control group (P<0.05). After 4 weeks of treatment, the contents of TEWL, serine protein activity and mucoprotein in the observation group were lower than those in the control group, and the oil and epidermal water contents were higher than those in the control group (P<0.05). There was no significant difference in the incidence of adverse reactions between the observation group and the control group (P>0.05). After 4 weeks of treatment, the Acne-QOL scores in both groups were higher than those before treatment (P<0.05). Gold microneedle combined with Kefumei mask can help to improve the physiological function of the skin in patients with rosacea, repair the stratum corneum, relieve clinical symptoms, improve the prognosis, and has high safety.

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    基于皮肤3D快速成像技术对唇部和唇周皮肤衰老分析
    A study on the lip and perioral aging via fast optical in vivo topometry of human skin
    贾雪婷,岳章,李晶晶,张辰暘,杨丽,苏宁
    2022 (7):  750-755.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.07.010
    摘要 ( 255 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF(1337KB) ( 437 )  

    采用皮肤3D快速成像系统(简称AEVA-HE)旨在探讨女性唇部及唇周皮肤衰老变化特征。实验选取20名符合条件健康女性志愿者参与测试,并分为青年组和老年组,每组10人,通过采集志愿者面部3D图像,对唇部、唇周皮肤生理参数特征统计分析。结果表明:唇周:青年组和老年组之间皮肤皱纹粗糙度(Ra,Rz)差异性具有统计学意义(P<0.05),青年组唇周皮肤更细腻;下唇纹:对青年组和老年组下唇平滑度(Stm,Sa)比较,未表现统计学意义;唇角:唇部粗糙度和皱纹深度具有统计学意义(P<0.05);唇部:唇部形态参数(Positive volume)结合3D可视化立体形态图,青年组唇部表现更饱满,但未表现统计学意义。结论通过试验表明AEVA-HE系统可采用客观数据与可视化图像表征唇部和唇周的皮肤纹理结构和形态特征,为化妆品企业与研究机构对唇部和唇周皮肤衰老评价提供技术参考。

    The lip and perioral skin aging was evaluated by the fast optical in vivo topometry of human skin (referred to as AEVA-HE). In the experiment, 20 eligible healthy female volunteers were selected to participate in the test. The volunteers were divided into a youth group and an elderly group, and each with 10 people. Based on the fast optical in vivo topometry of human skin technology, the 3D topography of all volunteers’ skin of lip and perioral skin was collected, and the physiological parameters of the lip and perioral skin were measured, and the skin texture and morphological changes were also statistically analyzed. The perioral wrinkles: compared with the elderly group, the youth group’s perioral skin is more delicate, and the results of wrinkles’ roughness (Ra, Rz) show significant difference by statistics analysis (P<0.05). The wrinkles of lower lip: as for comparing the wrinkles of lower lip between the youth and the elderly groups, the parameters of skin smoothness (Stm, Sa) show no significant difference. However, from the data trend and 3D topography, it is observed that the elderly group performs worse. The wrinkles of lip corners: the lip corner wrinkles’ roughness, wrinkle depth, volume and area were compared between the youth group and the elderly group. The results of wrinkles’ roughness and mean depth show significant difference by statistics analysis (P<0.05). The morphological change of lip: the results show that the youth group has plump lips combined with the parameters of positive volume, positive area and 3D topography. But no significant difference is shown between the youth group and the elderly group. This study shows that the AEVA-HE system can characterize the changes in the skin texture and morphology of the lips and perioral skin’s aging through the objective data and 3D topography, which will provide strong technical support for cosmetic companies and research institutions.

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    专论与综述
    基于简约审美元素的化妆品包装视觉设计
    Visual design of cosmetic packaging based on simple aesthetic elements
    钟姣,高韬
    2022 (7):  756-761.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.07.011
    摘要 ( 207 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF(966KB) ( 217 )  

    为了提升化妆品包装视觉效果,提升消费者购买欲望,提出了基于简约审美元素的化妆品包装视觉设计。化妆品包装视觉设计简约审美元素主要包括色彩、造型和图形3个方面;分析简约审美元素的定义与表现可知,简约审美元素可通过视觉设计要素的组合关系与秩序来体现,可理解为简约审美元素下视觉设计要素的协调;因此从形式统一与多变、对比调和、条理与动感3个方面出发,实现简约审美元素下化妆品包装视觉设计中色彩、造型和图形的协调。分析简约审美元素的应用,实现利用简约审美元素提升化妆品包装视觉效果的目的。

    In recent years, more and more consumers are pursuing personalized products, hoping to have unique items. The visual design of cosmetic packaging is an important link in cosmetics marketing and production, and it is an important factor to enhance consumers’ desire to purchase and obtain higher benefits. In order to enhance the visual effect of cosmetic packaging and enhance consumers’ desire to purchase, cosmetic packaging based on simple aesthetic elements is proposed visual design. The acceleration of the current pace of life makes people pursue a more natural and simple design style, and the simple aesthetic elements start a new trend of aesthetics that replace “existence” with “nothing”. It expresses the visual simplicity and aesthetic elements of cosmetic packaging-colors, shapes and graphics in a simple, clear and regular way. Analyzing the definition and performance of simple aesthetic elements, it can be seen that simple aesthetic elements can be embodied by the combination relationship and order of visual design elements, which can be understood as the coordination of visual design elements under the simple aesthetic elements; therefore, from the unity and change of form, contrast and harmony, proceeding from the three aspects of organization and dynamics, the coordination of colors, shapes and graphics in the visual design of cosmetic packaging under the simple aesthetic elements is realized. Analyzing the application of simple aesthetic elements, comprehensive case analysis shows that the use of simple graphics in the visual design of cosmetics packaging is diverse, and different colors also have different meanings. As another main form of disseminating visual language to the outside world, color affects people. The emotions of people have a greater impact, but the ultimate goal is to coordinate the content of the layout, enhance the visual effect, and attract the attention of consumers. Finally, the purpose of using simple aesthetic elements to enhance the visual effect of cosmetic packaging is realized.

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    液晶乳液制备的影响因素及其在化妆品中的应用
    Preparation of liquid crystal emulsion and its application in cosmetics
    刘慧民,马晓原,赵永红
    2022 (7):  762-769.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.07.012
    摘要 ( 1331 )   HTML ( 65 )   PDF(1117KB) ( 826 )  

    液晶乳化体系是一类新型的载体体系,可包裹功效物质,是化妆品乳液制备的研究热点。文章概述了常见的液晶乳化剂以及液晶乳状液制备的影响因素,包括配方组成成分、乳化方法;总结了液晶乳液在化妆品中的应用优势,包括化妆品的安全性、功效性、感官性和稳定性;介绍了液晶乳液在不同功效化妆品中的应用情况,包括保湿产品、防晒产品,旨在为液晶乳液的制备及应用提供理论依据。

    Liquid crystal emulsion has a wide range of applications in the field of cosmetics, showing a variety of excellent properties. This article first introduces the microscopic morphology of the liquid crystal structure. Secondly, it summarizes the liquid crystal emulsifiers and the factors that affect the preparation of liquid crystal emulsion, including formula ingredients, emulsification method and emulsification process. Finally, the application advantages of liquid crystal emulsion in cosmetics are summarized, including the safety, efficacy, sensory and stability of cosmetics. Safety is mainly reflected in the packaging and sustained release of some active ingredients. The liquid crystal structure isolates the irritating active ingredients from the skin and interacts slowly with the skin. In terms of efficacy, the liquid crystal structure can encapsulate actives, thereby protecting unstable actives, slow-release actives, and promoting the penetration of actives on the skin. In terms of sensory properties, due to the layered structure of the lamellar liquid crystal, the layered structure can slide during the application process because it can improve the smearing feeling of the cosmetics during use. Finally, the application of liquid crystal emulsion in cosmetics with different efficacies, including moisturizing products and sunscreen products, is introduced, which aims to provide a theoretical basis for the preparation and application of liquid crystal emulsion.

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    微纳米SiO2颗粒的粒径调控技术研究进展
    Advances in size control of micro and nano silica particles
    牛红博,燕永利,豆龙龙,姜选选,张晓,张佩亮
    2022 (7):  770-777.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.07.013
    摘要 ( 238 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF(1387KB) ( 360 )  

    微纳米SiO2颗粒是一种重要的无机非金属材料,同时也是组装具有功能特性纳米结构材料的理想构建基元,在橡胶、光子晶体、生物医学、化妆品等领域扮演着重要的角色。目前,研究人员对其粒径调控技术进行了大量的研究。然而,如何更有效地调控SiO2的粒径仍有待进一步发展。为此,文章着重论述了SiO2颗粒制备过程中的粒径调控机理及其影响因素,包括反应物的含量、催化剂种类和浓度、溶剂极性、合成工艺等因素。研究进展表明:基于Stöber法的SiO2颗粒粒径调控技术可在10 nm~4.5 µm范围内可调;基于微乳液法的SiO2颗粒粒径调控技术可在20~100 nm范围内可调;基于沉淀法的SiO2颗粒粒径调控技术可制得最小粒径为2 nm的SiO2颗粒。最后,指出了微纳米SiO2颗粒粒径调控技术中存在的问题及其发展方向,旨在为其在相关领域的应用提供一定的参考。

    Micro/nano-SiO2 particles are important inorganic non-metallic materials, and their good properties are concerned by researchers. They are also ideal building blocks for assembling functional nanostructured materials, and play an important role in rubber, photonic crystals, biomedicine, cosmetics and other fields. Therefore, the synthesis of nano-silica particles with controllable particle size is of great significance. Since Stöber et al. successfully prepared silica nanoparticles with different size by adjusting appropriate reaction parameters in 1968, a series of important progress has been made in the synthesis of silica nanoparticles. However, how to control the particle size of SiO2 more effectively remains to be further developed. Herein, three preparation methods of SiO2 particles are briefly introduced, including Stöber method, microemulsion method and precipitation method, with emphasis on the particle size control mechanism and its influencing factors in the preparation of SiO2 particles. The particle size control mechanism of SiO2 particles prepared by Stöber method and microemulsion method is mainly based on the reaction kinetics of TEOS hydrolysis and condensation, while the particle size control mechanism of SiO2 particles prepared by precipitation method is mainly based on the theory of silicic acid polymerization. The research progress has shown that by using Stöber method, by adjusting the type and concentration of catalysts, solvent polarity, synthesis process and other factors, the particle size of SiO2 particles can be adjusted in the range of 10 nm-4.5 μm; by microemulsion method, by adjusting the content of reactants, hydrophobic carbon chain length of surfactants and other factors, the particle size of SiO2 particles can be adjusted in the range of 20-100 nm; by means of precipitation method, by adjusting the content of reactants, pH of solution, synthesis process and other factors, SiO2 particles with the smallest particle size of 2 nm can be obtained. Finally, the problems and development direction of micro/nano-SiO2 particle size control technology are pointed out to provide some reference for application.

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    敏感性皮肤状态的评估
    Assessment of sensitive skin condition
    程琳,丁梅华,刘琦,赵华
    2022 (7):  778-784.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.07.014
    摘要 ( 396 )   HTML ( 28 )   PDF(955KB) ( 437 )  

    化妆品功效宣称应具有充分的科学依据,我国《化妆品功效宣称评价规范》要求特定宣称的化妆品如宣称适用敏感皮肤,应当通过人体功效评价试验或消费者使用测试的方式进行功效宣称评价。敏感性皮肤是一种皮肤响应轻微刺激而产生的一系列不愉快主观感受的皮肤症状,其主要特征是主观性和响应性,在人群中发生率较高。本文从敏感性皮肤的诱发因素、发生机制着手,详细阐述了敏感性皮肤的主、客观识别分级方法,旨在为建立完善的敏感性皮肤化妆品适用性、功效性的评价体系提供理论基础。

    Sensitive skin is a series of skin symptoms of unpleasant subjective feelings caused by the slight stimulation of skin response. It may produce a series of subjective and objective manifestations such as tingling, itching, erythema, tingling, and burning. Its main characteristics are subjectivity and responsiveness. It is a highly reactive skin condition, which is not a skin disease, but it is more likely to occur with skin disease, and it can be considered as a skin manifestation of some skin diseases. Sensitive skin may occur in various parts of the body and is not necessarily accompanied by objective signs such as erythema. Sensitive skin may be precipitated by various factors that its occurrence mechanism is complicated and unclear, involving skin barrier, nervous system, immune response, vascular system and many other aspects. The occurrence of sensitive skin is closely related to the TRP family, especially the TVPR1 receptor, which is generally accompanied by damage to the skin barrier and (or) nervous system disorders. The evaluation methods of sensitive skin condition can be divided into subjective evaluation methods, semi-subjective evaluation methods and objective evaluation methods. The lactic acid sting test and the measurement of transdermal water loss are the mostly used. At present, lots of researchers are exploring more objective and accurate evaluation methods for sensitive skin. However, due to the random occurrence and unclear mechanism, many evaluation methods have the limitations of poor consistency, low recognition rate, and difficulty in repeatability. The incidence of sensitive skin in the population is relatively high which about 40%, and there are differences in the incidence of different countries. At the same time, as cosmetics companies pay more attention to sensitive skin, it is showing a blowout trend in the market that more and more cosmetics claim suiting for sensitive skin. The efficacy claim of cosmetics should have sufficient scientific basis. The “Evaluation standard of cosmetic efficacy declaration” requires that specifically declared cosmetics should be evaluated by human efficacy evaluation test or consumer use test if they claim to apply to sensitive skin. Therefore, it is very important to accurately assess the condition of sensitive skin. Starting from the precipitating factors and occurrence mechanism of sensitive skin, this paper elaborates the subjective and objective identification and grading methods of sensitive skin, aiming to provide a theoretical basis for establishing a sound evaluation system of applicability and efficacy of sensitive skin cosmetics.

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    分析与检测
    液相色谱-四极杆-飞行时间质谱法快速筛查化妆品中8种亚硝胺
    Rapid screening and determination of eight nitrosamines in cosmetics by liquid chromatography-quadrupole-time-of-flight mass spectrometry
    蒋亚奇,高天阳,于海英,李启艳,李军,谢亚平
    2022 (7):  785-790.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.07.015
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    建立了液相色谱-四极杆-飞行时间质谱(LC-QTOF-MS)快速筛查和定量测定化妆品中8种亚硝胺的方法。化妆品经饱和氯化钠分散均匀后,加二氯甲烷涡旋提取,在室温下用氮气吹干二氯甲烷并以甲醇复溶后进样分析;待测物以甲醇和水作为流动相进行梯度洗脱,在Agilent Poroshell 120 SB-C18色谱柱上分离,采用大气压化学离子源,正离子信息依赖扫描(IDA)模式采集,同时获得了目标化合物的一级和二级质谱信息,采用Library view软件构建了8种亚硝胺的高分辨质谱数据库,将采集的结果与数据库比对实现了化妆品中8种亚硝胺的快速筛查。实验优化了样品前处理方法,经方法学考察,建立了化妆品中8种亚硝胺的含量测定方法。结果表明,与其他方法相比,该前处理方法既能达到净化目的,回收率还较高;在优化的条件下,8种亚硝胺在5~100 ng/mL范围内线性关系均良好(r≥0.999);在高(0.50 mg/kg)、中(0.10 mg/kg)、低(0.03 mg/kg) 3个加标水平下,平均回收率在85.1%~113.1%之间,相对标准偏差(RSD)为1.4%~6.6%;检出限在0.001 0~0.020 0 mg/kg之间,定量限在0.003 0~0.060 0 mg/kg之间。该法前处理方式简便,分析时间短,可实现缺乏标准品的情况下对目标化合物的快速筛查,方法灵敏度和准确度均较高,适用于化妆品中痕量亚硝胺的检测。

    A rapid screening and determination method was developed for eight nitrosamines in cosmetics by liquid chromatography-quadrupole-time-of-flight mass spectrometry. Cosmetics were well dispersed by saturated sodium chloride solution and extracted by vortex mixer using dichloromethane. After dichloromethane was dried under nitrogen, the residuums were redissolved by methanol; the separation of 8 target compounds was performed on an Agilent Poroshell 120 SB-C18 column with gradient elution using methanol and water as mobile phases. Detection was achieved by atmospheric pressure chemical ionization in the positive mode, and rapid screening could be achieved using high-resolution mass spectrometry database which was created and acquired by Library view 1.3.1 software. Sample pretreatment methods were optimized, and the determination method for 8 nitrosamines in cosmetics was established through methodological study. The results showed that: this sample pretreatment method had purifying effect and had a better recovery compared with other pretreatment methods; the eight nitrosamines all showed good linear relationship (r≥0.999) in the range of 5-100 ng/mL under the optimized conditions; the average recoveries were in the range of 85.1%-113.1% at three spiked levels (0.03, 0.10, 0.50 mg/kg) with relative standard deviations (RSDs) of 1.4%-6.6%; limits of detection (LODs) were in the range of 0.001 0-0.020 0 mg/kg, and limits of quantitation (LOQs) were in the range of 0.003 0-0.060 0 mg/kg. This method was simple and timesaving for rapid screening of target compounds even in case of lack of standards, and the method also had high sensitivity and accuracy, which was suitable for trace detection of nitrosamines in cosmetics.

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    祛斑美白类化妆品中6种功效成分的同时测定及使用情况分析
    Simultaneous determination and usage analysis of six functional ingredients in whitening cosmetics
    严俊,王容,李泽桦,张丽媛,程巧鸳,颜琳琦
    2022 (7):  791-796.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.07.016
    摘要 ( 351 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF(1139KB) ( 267 )  

    建立水基类、乳液类、膏霜类不同基质类型的祛斑美白类化妆品中α-熊果苷、β-熊果苷、脱氧熊果苷、烟酰胺、氢醌和苯酚含量测定的液相色谱法。样品使用70%甲醇溶液提取,经C18 (250×4.6 mm,5 μm)色谱柱分离后,以甲醇-水为流动相梯度洗脱,采用二极管阵列检测器检测。结果表明,α-熊果苷、β-熊果苷、脱氧熊果苷、烟酰胺、氢醌和苯酚在一定浓度范围内线性关系良好,r2>0.999,方法检出限和定量下限分别为6~12 mg/kg,20~40 mg/kg。6个待测物的方法回收率为93.4%~109.6%,RSD(n=6)为0.2%~3.8%。测定了150批祛斑美白类样品,均未检出脱氧熊果苷、氢醌和苯酚,检出的烟酰胺、β-熊果苷和α-熊果苷含量分别在0.10%~5.26%,0.01%~3.32%和0.01%~0.57%之间。本法准确、灵敏、前处理简单,可用于化妆品中6种目标组分的测定。

    A high performance liquid chromatography method to determine six functional ingredients in whitening cosmetics was established for the simultaneous detection of α-arbutin, β-arbutin, deoxyarbutin, nicotinamide, hydroquinone and phenol in water-based, emulsion and cream cosmetics. For satisfactory sensitivity, stability and precision, the effects of detection wavelength, chromatographic column, mobile phase, extraction solvents, injection volume and column temperature were explored. Finally, the samples were extracted by 70% methanol solution, then the extract was separated on Waters HSS T3-C18 (250×4.6 mm, 5 μm) column using methanol-water as the mobile phase with a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min, and qualitative and quantitative analysis was performed by high performance liquid chromatography with diode array detector at the detection wavelength of 220 nm. The results show that there are good linear relationships for 6 compounds in certain concentration range, with correlation coefficients (r2) larger than 0.999. The limits of detection (LOD) and limits of quantitation (LOQ) are in the range of 6-12 mg/kg and 20-40 mg/kg, respectively. The spiked recoveries for six compounds are in the range of 93.4%-109.6% with relative standard deviations (RSD) of 0.2%-3.8%. 150 batches of samples were determined. No deoxyarbutin, hydroquinone or phenol was detected. The content of nicotinamide, β-arbutin and α-arbutin range from 0.10% to 5.26%, 0.01% to 3.32% and 0.01% to 0.57%, respectively. The developed method is accurate, sensitive and simple for the determination of the six components in cosmetics. It is not only an effective method to detect deoxyarbutin in cosmetics, but also provides basis for simultaneous determination of these six components.

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