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    2022年, 第52卷, 第8期 刊出日期:2022-08-22 上一期    下一期
    基础研究
    含噻二唑季铵盐表面活性剂对Q235钢的缓蚀性能
    Corrosion inhibition effect of a quaternary ammonium surfactant containing thiadiazole on Q235 steel
    王俊霞,刘建华,陆小猛,孙永强,胡志勇,朱海林
    2022 (8):  797-804.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.08.001
    摘要 ( 272 )   HTML ( 23 )   PDF(1632KB) ( 698 )  

    通过表面张力法研究一种含噻二唑季铵盐表面活性剂(MTOTB)在1 mol/L HCl溶液中的表面活性;通过电化学测试、静态失重和表面形貌分析研究MTOTB及相应的2-巯基-5-甲基-1,3,4-噻二唑(MMTD)在1 mol/L HCl溶液中对Q235碳钢的缓蚀性能。结果表明,MTOTB在1 mol/L HCl溶液中的临界胶束浓度为0.36 mmol/L;当添加浓度为0.5 mmol/L时,MTOTB对在1 mol/L HCl溶液中浸泡48 h碳钢片的缓蚀率可达95.34%,同样条件下,MMTD对碳钢的缓蚀率为78.34%,说明MTOTB对碳钢的腐蚀抑制效率显著优于MMTD。SEM-EDS表明,MTOTB可以吸附在碳钢表面,有效抑制碳钢片的腐蚀。

    The surface activity of a quaternary ammonium surfactant (MTOTB) in 1 mol/L HCl solution was investigated by surface tension method. The corrosion inhibition performance of MTOTB and 2-mercapto-5-methyl-1, 3, 4-thiadiazole (MMTD) for Q235 carbon steel in 1 mol/L HCl solution was analyzed by electrochemical test, weight loss and surface morphology analysis. The results show that, the critical micelle concentration is 0.36 mmol/L for MTOTB in 1 mol/L HCl solution. The corrosion inhibition rate can reach 95.34% for the carbon steel soaked in 1 mol/L HCl solution for 48 h when adding 0.5 mmol/L MTOTB, while for MMTD it is 78.34% under the same condition, suggesting that MTOTB owns better corrosion inhibition performance than MMTD. The results of SEM-EDS show that MTOTB can adsorb on the surface of carbon steel and effectively inhibit the corrosion of carbon steel sheet.

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    科技讲座
    常用化妆品成型技术(Ⅱ)——控释利器:微胶囊
    Common cosmetic preparation technologies (Ⅱ)Powerful controlled release tool: Microencapsulation
    郝旸,王长运,樊建茹,冯云,黎振球,徐桂云,范金石
    2022 (8):  805-811.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.08.002
    摘要 ( 574 )   HTML ( 35 )   PDF(1094KB) ( 405 )  

    微胶囊是用可成膜材料包覆气体、液体或固体而形成的一种微小“壁-芯”物料结构,可有效降低外界环境对被包覆成分的影响,提高其稳定性,并能通过机械、加热或化学等方法有针对性地控制被包覆材料的释放,改善其使用性能。类型多样、性能可控的微胶囊已在化妆品、香精、食品、医药、农药、阻燃剂、造纸、纺织染整等多个行业领域中得到广泛应用。本文介绍了微胶囊技术的发展、微胶囊的基本性质和壁材选择、微胶囊化方法及其功能特性,有选择地介绍了近年来微胶囊在化妆品及日化相关领域中的典型应用情况,并指出了微胶囊技术的研发方向。

    Microcapsule is a kind of tiny ‘shell-core’ complex structure formed by film-forming materials coating gaseous, liquid or solid active ingredients. Microencapsulation can effectively reduce the influence of the external environment on the encapsulated ingredients, enhancing the stability of the active ingredients. Moreover, microencapsulation can control the release of encapsulated materials by mechanical technique, heating or chemical reaction, which markedly improves the performance of encapsulated materials. Diverse types of microcapsules with controlled performance have been widely used in many industrial fields, such as cosmetics, perfume, food, medicine, pesticides, flame retardants, papermaking, textile dyeing and textile finishing. Herein, the development of microencapsulation technology, the basic properties of microcapsules, the categories of microcapsule wall materials, and the functional properties of microcapsules were introduced. Furthermore, the typical applications of microencapsulation in hair lotion, hair dye, sun screener, functional cosmetics and several perfumes in recent years were mentioned. The research and development trend of microencapsulation was also briefly pointed out.

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    开发与应用
    Microbulbifer sp. FG5琼胶酶的分离纯化及酶学性质研究
    Isolation, purification and characterization of the agarase from Microbulbifer sp. FG5
    刘明明,张力雄,龙昊
    2022 (8):  812-818.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.08.003
    摘要 ( 224 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF(1400KB) ( 164 )  

    琼胶酶是一种糖苷水解酶,能够特异性降解琼胶为琼胶寡糖。本研究从一株琼胶降解菌FG5的培养液中分离纯化得到纯净的琼胶酶并研究其酶学特性。将FG5菌株的发酵液离心后得到粗酶液,再通过超滤浓缩、透析、葡聚糖凝胶柱层析进行酶的分离纯化。收集得到葡聚糖凝胶柱层析紫外检测主峰组份,经SDS-PAGE电泳检测为单一条带蛋白质,分子量约为54 kD。酶活检测证明该蛋白具有琼脂酶活性,命名为琼胶酶FG5-A。采用单因素试验和正交试验设计对FG5-A的酶解反应条件进行优化分析。FG5-A琼胶酶活性最适条件为:pH 7.3,反应温度51 ℃,反应底物含量0.351%。探索了FG5-A的纯化流程,经葡聚糖凝胶柱纯化后琼胶酶活性相比发酵液提高了6.95倍,并初步优化了FG5-A琼胶酶的最适酶解条件,为高纯度琼胶酶的工业化生产和应用奠定理论与实践基础。

    Through the separation and purification of the agar-degrading bacteria FG5 fermentation broth, agarase was obtained to study its enzymatic characterization, and whole genome sequencing was used to obtain high-potential agar-degrading engineering bacteria. The crude enzyme of FG5 agarase was obtained after centrifugation of the fermentation broth of FG5 strain followed by separation and purification via ultrafiltration concentration, dialysis, and dextran gel column chromatography. The DNS method was used to determine the reducing sugar content in the enzymatic hydrolysate, and then the enzyme activity was calculated. Then, a single factor experiment, and an orthogonal experiment design were utilized to optimize the enzymatic hydrolysis conditions for a single agarase component. A peak product with agarase activity is obtained after separation, purification, and UV detection. The molecular weight of the purified agarase protein is about 54 kD. The optimal conditions of FG5 agarase are as follows: pH 7.3, reaction temperature 51 ℃, and substrate concentration 0.351%. In this study, the FG5 crude enzyme is purified by 6.95 times using the dextran gel column, and the conditions for enzymatic hydrolysis of FG5 agarase are optimized. It provides a theoretical and practical foundation for the industrial production of high-purity agarase.

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    改性高岭土对工业氯化钙中Cu2+和Pb2+的吸附去除研究
    Adsorption removal of Cu2+ and Pb2+ from industrial calcium chloride by modified kaolin
    王豪波,易芸,付成兵,刘飞,曹建新,潘红艳
    2022 (8):  819-826.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.08.004
    摘要 ( 157 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF(1570KB) ( 366 )  

    采用煅烧结合氢氧化钠处理的方式对高岭土进行改性,在通过FT-IR、XRD、XRF等表征手段分析高岭土改性前后理化性质变化基础上,对改性高岭土吸附去除氯化钙溶液中Cu2+和Pb2+进行研究。讨论了吸附时间、氯化钙溶液pH和吸附剂用量对高岭土和改性高岭土吸附去除氯化钙溶液中Cu2+和Pb2+的影响,研究了改性高岭土在氯化钙溶液中吸附去除Cu2+和Pb2+的吸附动力学和等温吸附过程行为。研究发现,改性使高岭土发生非晶化转变,负电性、比表面积和孔容增大;在吸附时间40~120 min区间内,改性高岭土对氯化钙溶液中Cu2+和Pb2+的平均吸附容量比高岭土高了3.57和3.17 mg/g,且吸附容量随吸附时间增加而提高并渐趋平衡;对氯化钙溶液中Cu2+的吸附容量随溶液pH增大先提高后降低,对Pb2+的吸附容量随溶液pH增大逐渐增大;随着吸附剂用量增加,氯化钙溶液中Cu2+和Pb2+的吸附容量逐渐降低;改性高岭土对Cu2+和Pb2+的吸附过程符合拟二级动力学方程和Langmuir等温吸附模型。

    Kaolin was modified by calcination combined with sodium hydroxide treatment. The changes in physicochemical properties of kaolinite before and after modification were analyzed by FT-IR, XRD, XRF and other characterization methods. On this basis, the adsorption removal of Cu2+ and Pb2+ from calcium chloride solution by modified kaolinite was investigated. The effects of adsorption time, pH of calcium chloride solution and adsorbent dosage on the adsorption removal of Cu2+ and Pb2+ from calcium chloride solution by kaolinite and modified kaolinite were discussed. The adsorption kinetics and isothermal adsorption process behavior of modified kaolinite were analyzed for the adsorption removal of Cu2+ and Pb2+ in calcium chloride solution. It was found that the modification caused an amorphous transformation of kaolinite and the increase of electronegativity, specific surface area and pore volume. The average adsorption capacity of Cu2+ and Pb2+ in calcium chloride solution by modified kaolin was 3.57 and 3.17 mg/g higher than that without modification in the range of adsorption time from 40 to 120 min. The adsorption capacity was first increased and then to equilibrium with the increase of adsorption time. The adsorption capacity of Cu2+ in calcium chloride solution was first increased and then decreased with the increase of solution pH, while the adsorption capacity of Pb2+ was increased with the increase of solution pH. The adsorption capacities of Cu2+ and Pb2+ from calcium chloride solution were decreased with the increase of adsorbent dosage. The adsorption processes of modified kaolin for Cu2+ and Pb2+ were consistent with the pseudo second order kinetic equation and Langmuir isothermal adsorption model.

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    基于漆酶催化的没食子酸酯接枝真丝疏水改性
    Hydrophobic modification of silk via enzymatic grafting of gallate esters
    周春晓,张天春,李铁军,邢铁玲,陈国强
    2022 (8):  827-832.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.08.005
    摘要 ( 228 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF(1337KB) ( 148 )  

    采用漆酶作为生物催化剂,以没食子酸月桂酯(DG)为单体对真丝进行了疏水改性研究。实验结果表明,在浴比1:50,温度50 ℃,pH 4,漆酶用量2 U/mL,单体用量12 mmol/L,Cu2+浓度15 mmol/L,2,6-二甲氧基苯酚(DMP) 0.15 mol/L,处理时间5 h条件下,真丝织物可获得较佳接枝率。通过红外光谱(FTIR)、扫描电镜(SEM)、拒水度、接触角、断裂强力等测试,对接枝前后的真丝结构及性能进行分析。结果显示,漆酶催化真丝接枝改性处理对纤维损伤较小,且改性后的真丝织物可获得优异疏水效果。本文将酶催化氧化酪氨酸的酚羟基引发接枝聚合反应的特点与真丝纤维功能改性有机结合,提出了一种天然蛋白纤维改性的新方法。此外,真丝纤维的酶法催化改性整理高效温和、节能环保,可在提高真丝产品品质的同时,降低企业能耗,缓解社会的环保压力,具有重要的应用价值。

    The hydrophobicity of silk fiber is relative poor, which greatly limits its application in many fields. Therefore, the study of hydrophobic modification of silk is of great significance. Herein, laccase was used as biocatalyst and lauryl gallate (DG) was used as monomer to modify silk via hydrophobic grafting in a special buffer solution. The reaction conditions were optimized, including the reaction time, pH, temperature, the dosages of laccase, monomers and Cu2+, and the media concentration. Fourier transformation infrared spectrum (FTIR), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), contact angle, water repellency, moisture regain, breaking strength and elongation of silk fabrics were used to analyze the structure and performance of silk before and after grafting. The experimental results show that, at the bath ratio of 1:50, real silk fabric can obtain better grafting rate at the temperature of 50 ℃, pH 4, laccase dosage of 2 U/mL, monomer dosage of 12 mmol/L, CuSO4 concentration of 15 mmol/L, DMP concentration of 0.15 mol/L and with processing time of 5 h. In addition, such treatment of silk via enzyme-catalyzed grafting modification will cause less fiber damage, and the modified silk fabric can achieve excellent hydrophobicity. Thus a new method for native protein fiber modification by enzymatic oxidation of phenolic hydroxyl groups of tyrosine triggering graft polymerization reaction has been proposed. This enzyme-catalyzed finishing of silk fiber is efficient, mild, energy-saving and environment-friendly, which can not only improve the quality of silk products, but also reduce the energy consumption of enterprises and the environmental protection pressure. Therefore, it has important application value.

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    广藿香叶提取物的皮肤舒缓和修护功效研究
    Study on the skin soothing and skin repair effects of Pogostemon cablin leaf extract
    赵云珊,江月明,鲁文嘉,贾明明,瞿欣
    2022 (8):  833-836.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.08.006
    摘要 ( 790 )   HTML ( 35 )   PDF(1290KB) ( 370 )  

    研究设计了3组基于不同皮肤刺激模型的人体测试,分别通过胶带剥脱法建立皮肤屏障物理性损伤模型,苯氧乙醇或辣椒素化学刺激原建立皮肤刺激模型,并结合主观自觉症状评分、客观非创仪器检测皮肤的生理学参数和光谱成像血流分析仪,系统性地研究了广藿香叶提取物对敏感性皮肤人群的临床皮肤舒缓和修护功效。结果表明,面膜中添加1%广藿香叶提取物可显著减轻苯氧乙醇引起的皮肤灼烧感和刺痛感(p<0.05)。使用含1%广藿香叶提取物乳霜30 min、1 h和2 h后,受损皮肤的经表皮失水率(TEWL)均显著减少(p<0.05),表明受损皮肤修复加速。通过TiVi 700图像可视化地比较和展示了1%广藿香叶提取物减轻皮肤红斑的效果。

    The occurrence of sensitive skin has close relationship with the overactivity of transient receptor potential vanilloid type 1 (TRPV1) and impaired skin barrier function. This study aims to establish a damaged skin barrier model and irritation model using physical and chemical irritants and to evaluate the skin soothing and repair effect of Pogostemon cablin leaf extract, so as to explore timely measures to alleviate the sensitive skin problem. The clinical skin soothing and skin repairing effects of Pogostemon cablin leaf extract on sensitive skin have been systematically studied, using tape-tripping as physical skin damage model, and chemical probe, phenoxyethanol or capsaicin, as skin irritation model, combined with subjective self-assessment, objective non-invasive skin physiological measurements and image acquisition with Tissue Viability Imager. The results demonstrate that the addition of 1% Pogostemon cablin leaf extract in a mask can significantly reduce the burning and stinging sensation of the skin induced by phenoxyethanol (p<0.05). After using a cream containing 1% Pogostemon cablin leaf extract for 30 minutes, 1 hour and 2 hours, the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of the damaged skin is significantly reduced (p<0.05), indicating that the skin repair is accelerated. The images acquired by TiVi 700 are visually compared and demonstrate the effect of 1% Pogostemon cablin leaf extract on reducing skin erythema.

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    含发酵产物类化妆品微生物检查方法适用性研究
    Discussion on the applicability of microbiological test method for cosmetics containing fermented ingredients
    刘丰,罗俊,王晓炜,应国红
    2022 (8):  839-843.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.08.007
    摘要 ( 197 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF(991KB) ( 185 )  

    为了考察含发酵产物类化妆品的卫生质量及探讨其防腐体系对微生物检查方法的影响,按照《化妆品安全技术规范》(2015年版)对30批含发酵产物类化妆品进行微生物检查,同时参考《中国药典》(2020年版)控制菌方法适用性及微生物计数方法适用性试验,对含发酵产物类化妆品进行微生物检查方法适用性研究。结果表明,含发酵产物类化妆品的卫生质量较好,合格率达到了96.67%。30批含发酵产物类化妆品中,有3批化妆品需采用供试液稀释法才能通过控制菌方法适用性试验;有4批化妆品的抑菌性非常强,即使采用1:100供试液,试验菌的回收率依然<0.5,需采用薄膜过滤法才能通过微生物计数方法适用性试验。30批含发酵产物类化妆品中共有5批化妆品具有较强的抑菌性,可能会影响化妆品微生物检验结果的准确性,因此很有必要在化妆品微生物检验之前进行微生物方法适用性试验。

    For surveillance of the cosmetic hygiene for cosmetics containing fermented ingredients, 30 batches of cosmetics containing fermented ingredients were subjected to microbiological tests according to the Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics (2015 edition). Additionally, to investigate the influence of the antibacterial system therein on the applicability of bacteria control method and the applicability of microbial counting method, Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus subtilis, Candida albicans and Aspergillus niger were used for test according to Chinese Pharmacopoeia (2020 edition). The results showed that, the hygienic quality of cosmetics containing fermented ingredients was good, with a pass rate of 96.67%. Among the 30 batches, the positive control of Escherichia coli did not grow in two batches of cosmetics, and the Staphylococcus aureus did not grow in one batch of cosmetics, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa grew normally in all cosmetics. A total of three batches did not pass the applicability of the control bacteria inspection method, and test-solution dilution method was needed to meet the requirements. There were four batches that had very strong antibacterial activity toward Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus subtilis and Candida albicans, i.e., even using 1:100 test solution, the recovery rate of the test bacteria was still less than 0.5, which required the use of membrane filtration method to make the recovery rate of test bacteria reach 0.5-2.0. Among the 30 batches of cosmetics containing fermented ingredients, 5 batches of cosmetics had different degrees of antibacterial activity, which might affect the accuracy of microbial testing results. Currently, commercially available cosmetics containing fermented ingredients are added with chemical preservatives. However, probiotic fermentation ingredients are not only functional ingredients but also good biological preservatives. Thus, cosmetics containing fermented ingredients may seriously affect the detection rate of microorganisms therein. Therefore, it is necessary to conduct a suitability test before microbiological test for such cosmetics.

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    纳米甲壳素稳定蜂蜡油凝胶Pickering乳液的性能研究
    Properties of oleogel-in-water Pickering emulsion stabilized by nano-chitin
    沈嘉骏,宦静静,王碧佳,隋晓锋
    2022 (8):  844-850.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.08.008
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    用盐酸蒸汽处理甲壳素原料来制备纳米甲壳素,其形貌为棒状结构且平均直径约为50~60 nm、具有较高的长径比。以蜂蜡和玉米油制成的油凝胶作为油相,用纳米甲壳素作为Pickering乳液稳定剂,制得O/W型油凝胶Pickering乳液。用光学显微镜、荧光显微镜、动态光散射粒度仪、流变仪对乳液进行表征。偏振光显微镜图片中的双折射现象表明蜂蜡油凝胶被包裹在油滴中。荧光显微镜的结果显示纳米甲壳素在油/水界面的吸附能力很强,在纳米甲壳素质量分数仅为0.2%时,即可乳化含有10%(质量分数)蜂蜡的油相得到稳定的油凝胶Pickering乳液(油/水质量比为1:9),且干燥除水后能够维持原貌。油凝胶以及其乳液的流变行为表明纳米甲壳素在油/水界面具有较好的机械阻隔作用,且油凝胶可以在剪切作用下被释放。

    Nano-chitin was prepared by treating raw chitin with hydrogen chloride (HCl) vapor followed by dispersing in water at high speed for 1 min. The obtained nano-chitin has rod-like morphology with average diameter of approximately 50-60 nm and high length-diameter ratio. The nano-chitin suspension thus prepared was used to stabilize an oleogel consisting of beeswax and corn oil to fabricate oleogel-in-water Pickering emulsion, and it was confirmed that the chitin without HCl vapor treatment could not stabilize the oleogel to form Pickering emulsion. The emulsions were characterized by optical microscope, polarized microscope, fluorescence microscope, dynamic laser scattering size analyzer and rheometer. The birefringence observed by polarized microscope shows that beeswax oleogel is successfully encapsulated. The results of fluorescence microscopy show that nano-chitin is adsorbed at the O/W interface, and the emulsions keep the original morphology after water being removed for the oleogel containing more than 5% beeswax. The rheology behaviors of oleogel Pickering emulsions stabilized by 0.6% nano-chitin suspension with varied beeswax concentration show much lower storage modulus than corresponding beeswax oleogels, indicating that the nano-chitin has acted as a barrier at the O/W interface of Pickering emulsion to protect it from breaking under shearing. Oleogel containing 10% beeswax could be stabilized at an O/W ratio of 1/9 using as little as 0.2% nano-chitin suspension. The resulting Pickering emulsion is able to maintain the original morphology after complete removal of water, and its rheology behavior is similar to the oleogel containing 10% beeswax, indicating that the beeswax oleogel is released under shearing. The rheology behaviors of emulsions with oleogel containing 10% beeswax encapsulated indicate that the beeswax oleogel can be control-released under shearing by adjusting the concentration of nano-chitin.

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    一款含死海水乳液的抗衰功效评价研究
    Study on the anti-aging efficacy of the Dead Sea water emulsion
    牛文霞,何先喆,韩兴艳
    2022 (8):  851-857.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.08.009
    摘要 ( 308 )   HTML ( 21 )   PDF(1452KB) ( 400 )  

    为研究死海水对人体皮肤的抗衰功效,以一款含死海水的乳液配方进行了皮肤抗衰老功效验证,以客观测试数据及主观评价结合法对皮肤各项指标进行8周试用评估。筛选30名27~57岁女性受试者作为研究对象,采用随机双盲对照实验,分别在使用产品2周,4周,8周后采集受试者两侧脸颊的皮肤角质层水分含量、经皮失水量、皮肤弹性、C-Cube皱纹3D图像以及受试者自我评价数据。结果显示,8周后使用含死海水乳液一侧面部皮肤状态得到显著改善(P<0.05),角质层水分含量增加17.77%,经皮失水量降低11.29%,皮肤弹性提升17.62%,法令纹深度降低18.23%,眼角纹降低16.71%,各项指标均优于对照组结果,结合受试者各阶段逐渐上升的自我评分结果说明死海水应用到乳液中具有良好的抗衰效果。

    Combined with objective test data and subjective evaluation method, an 8-week trial was conducted to evaluate the anti-aging efficacy of the Dead Sea water emulsion. Thirty eligible subjects (27-57 years old, female) were selected for this randomized double-blind controlled experiment. 3D images of wrinkles, stratum corneum moisture content, transepidermal water loss and skin elasticity on both cheeks were collected by researchers at 2 weeks, 4 weeks and 8 weeks after using the Dead Sea water emulsion. Subjects were also asked to make a self-assessment of their skin condition at each period. The comprehensive evaluation results show that, all skin indexes of the subjects are gradually improved as the trial duration grows. The 8-week data of facial skin condition are significantly improved after using the Dead Sea water emulsion (P<0.05). The stratum corneum moisture content is increased by 17.77%; the transepidermal water loss is decreased by 11.29%; the skin elasticity is increased by 17.62%; the depth of nasolabial folds is decreased by 18.23%; the wrinkles of canthus are decreased by 16.71%. The results of all indexes are better than the blank control group. In addition, the self-rating of subjects is also gradually increased in each period. In conclusion, the Dead Sea water applied in emulsion has obviously improved the anti-aging efficacy.

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    分析与检测
    高效液相色谱法同时测定化妆品中5种抗氧化成分
    Simultaneous determination of 5 antioxidant components in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography
    刘丹,何燕伶,邱红燕,马莹
    2022 (8):  858-862.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.08.010
    摘要 ( 211 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF(1087KB) ( 189 )  

    建立了高效液相色谱法同时测定化妆品中儿茶素、表儿茶素、没食子酸、芦丁、槲皮素含量的分析方法。待测物经CAPCELL PAK MG C18色谱柱(4.6 mm×250 mm)分离,梯度洗脱;流动相为0.1%磷酸水溶液-甲醇,儿茶素、表儿茶素、没食子酸测定波长为280 nm,芦丁、槲皮素测定波长为360 nm,柱温为30 ℃,PDA检测器,流速1.0 mL/min。结果显示,儿茶素、表儿茶素、没食子酸、芦丁、槲皮素在0.594 5~15.403 6 μg/mL范围内线性良好,r>0.999。上述5种化合物的检出限范围为0.025 1~0.128 4 ng/mL,24 h内稳定性良好。水基质中的平均回收率为99.7%,乳霜基质中的平均回收率为99.4%。该方法操作简便,准确性良好,适用于同时测定化妆品中儿茶素、表儿茶素、没食子酸、芦丁、槲皮素5种成分含量。

    This experiment adopts high performance liquid chromatography method to simultaneously detect the content of catechins, epicatechins, gallic acid, rutin and quercetin in cosmetics, and provides certain reference for the detection of antioxidant ingredients in plant extracts in cosmetics. Test samples were separated by CAPCELL PAK MG C18 column (4.6 mm×250 mm) and underwent gradient elution. The mobile phase was 0.1% aqueous phosphate solution-methanol, the wavelength of catechins, epicatechins, and gallic acid was 280 nm and that of rutin and quercetin was 360 nm. The column temperature was 30 ℃ with the PDA detector, and the flow rate was 1.0 mL/min. The five compositions are linearly good in the range of 0.594 5-15.403 6 μg/mL, and the r>0.999. The detection limit of this method is 0.025 1-0.128 4 ng/mL. The average recovery rate in the water matrix is 92%-113%, and that in the cream matrix is 90%-110%. This method is easy to operate, and has good stability. Therefore, it is accurate and suitable for simultaneously measuring the content of catechins, epicatechins, gallic acid, rutin and quercetin in cosmetics.

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    高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中的盐酸二甲双胍
    Determination of metformin hydrochloride in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography
    黄炜东
    2022 (8):  863-867.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.08.011
    摘要 ( 333 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF(1162KB) ( 254 )  

    建立了一种高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中盐酸二甲双胍含量的方法。样品经过水超声提取后,以Thermo Acclaim 120 C18(4.6 mm×250 mm,5 μm)为色谱柱,甲醇-10 mmol/L磷酸二氢钾溶液(含1 mmol/L十二烷基硫酸钠,pH=4.7)(50:50)为流动相进行等度洗脱,流速1.0 mL/min,柱温35 ℃,检测波长233 nm,外标法定量。结果表明,盐酸二甲双胍在质量浓度0.05~2.0 mg/L范围内与其峰面积之间呈良好线性关系(r=0.999 9),其检出限为0.30 mg/kg,定量限为1.0 mg/kg。在不同类型的空白化妆品中进行加标回收实验,方法的回收率为92.8%~110.0%,相对标准偏差为1.96%~6.06%(n=6)。该方法具有前处理简单,分析准确,基质干扰小等优点,适用于化妆品中盐酸二甲双胍的测定。

    A high performance liquid chromatography method for determination of metformin hydrochloride in cosmetics was established. The samples were extracted by water under ultrasonic condition, and then separated on Thermo Acclaim 120 C18 (4.6 mm×250 mm, 5 μm) with methanol-10 mmol/L potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution (containing 1 mmol/L sodium dodecyl sulfate, pH=4.7) (50:50) as mobile phase for isocratic elution. The flow rate was 1.0 mL/min, and the column temperature was 35 ℃. The detection was carried out by a diode array detector with the wavelength of 233 nm. Quantitative analysis was performed by the external standard method. The results show that there is a good linear relationship between the mass concentration of metformin hydrochloride and the peak area in the range of 0.05-2.0 mg/L (r=0.999 9). The detection limit is 0.30 mg/kg and the quantitative limit is 1.0 mg/kg. The recovery test was conducted by adding standard solution to the blank samples of different types of cosmetics. The recovery rates are in the range of 92.8%-110.0% with the relative standard deviations in the range of 1.96%-6.06% (n=6). This method has advantages such as simple pretreatment, high accuracy and almost little interference from the matrix. It is suitable for the determination of metformin hydrochloride in cosmetics.

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    高效液相色谱法测定原料及化妆品中7种视黄醇及其衍生物的含量
    Determination of 7 retinol and its derivatives in raw materials and cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography
    闫秀芳,严晓娟,陈燕
    2022 (8):  868-874.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.08.012
    摘要 ( 614 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF(1375KB) ( 301 )  

    建立了能够同时测定原料及化妆品中视黄醇及视黄醇6种衍生物(视黄醛、视黄醇乙酸酯、视黄醇丙酸酯、视黄醇棕榈酸酯、羟基频哪酮视黄酸酯和视黄醇视黄酸酯)的高效液相色谱的分析方法。样品用乙腈萃取,经ZORBAX Eclipse Plus C-18(250 mm×4.6 mm,5 μm)色谱柱分离,以乙腈和四氢呋喃为流动相,梯度洗脱,柱温30 ℃,流速1 mL/min,用二极管阵列检测器在多波长下同时测定原料及化妆品中7种视黄醇及其衍生物。结果显示,该方法的线性系数范围为0.999 7~1,回收率范围为92.37%~112.06%,精密度(RSD)范围为0.20%~6.14%。14批次样品的测定结果表明该方法有较高的可实用性和重现性,能很好地满足原料及化妆品的分析需求。

    An analytical method for the determination of retinol and its six derivatives (retinal, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinyl palmitate, hydroxypinacolone retinoate and retinyl retinoate) in raw materials and cosmetics has been developed. The sample was extracted with acetonitrile, followed by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) determination with diode array detector (DAD), then it was separated by ZORBAX Eclipse Plus C-18(250 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm)using acetonitrile and tetrahydrofuran as the mobile phase with gradient elution. The column temperature was 30 ℃, and the flow rate was 1 mL/min. The diode array detector was used to detect seven kinds of retinols and their derivatives in raw materials and cosmetics at multi-wavelength. The method is successfully validated which shows a good linearity(0.999 7-1)with the limits of detection in the range of 0.5-2 μg/mL and quantification ranged from 1.5 to 6 μg/mL, respectively. Finally, the proposed analytical method is applied to the determination of retinol and its six derivatives in different dosage forms of cosmetic samples containing essence, emulsion and cream, with good relative recovery values (92.37%-112.06%), and the precision (RSD) ranged from 0.20% to 6.14%. Thus, the results show that matrix effects are negligible. The method shows a good practicability and reproducibility through detection of 14 batches of samples. The good analytical features of the proposed method besides its simplicity and affordability, make it useful to carry out the quality control of cosmetic products. The establishment of this method is helpful for cosmetic enterprises to search for high-quality raw materials, controll the best balance between efficacy and measurement, verify whether the production process is reliable and ensure the stability of raw materials and product efficacy. At the same time, it provids reliable quality inspection means for enterprises when developing and producing products. This method not only meets the simultaneous determination of multiple components in batch samples, but also improves the detection efficiency and reduces the experimental cost. The establishment of this test method is of great significance for the market supervision of cosmetics and cosmetic raw materials.

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    专论与综述
    2014—2021年含植物原料的国产普通化妆品现状分析
    Analysis of domestic general cosmetics containing plant materials from 2014 to 2021
    李雪,王燕萍,杨兆均,韩佳冰,李文,胡芳弟
    2022 (8):  875-881.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.08.013
    摘要 ( 300 )   HTML ( 23 )   PDF(1327KB) ( 384 )  

    含植物原料的化妆品近年来深受广大消费者青睐,但植物原料使用频次、功效研究等情况尚无全面的数据统计分析。论文检索并统计处理国家药品监督管理局已公布的2014—2021年国产普通化妆品年备案数量、成分等信息,重点对植物原料使用情况、功效研究及配伍关系等业界关注问题进行分析、讨论,并给出相关建议,为植物原料在化妆品领域进一步开发和应用提供参考依据。

    Cosmetics are daily chemical industry products that are applied to any part of the human body surface (skin, hair, nails, lips, etc.) by rubbing, spraying or other similar methods to achieve the purpose of cleaning, eliminating bad odor, skin care, beauty and modification. After years of development, the domestic cosmetics industry has maintained steady growth in market size. In recent years, with the improvement of people’s living standards, the cosmetics consumption idea changes and cosmetics become necessities of people’s daily life, especially the domestic cosmetics which contain plant materials are more favored by consumers. However, the analysis of the cosmetics market is mainly based on the questionnaire survey. There is relatively little analysis based on the official record data, and there is no comprehensive statistical analysis of the use frequency and efficacy of plant materials. In this paper, the number and composition of domestic ordinary cosmetics published by the National Medical Products Administration from 2014 to 2021 were retrieved and statistically processed, the industry concerns such as the use of plant materials, efficacy studies and compatibility relationship were analyzed and discussed, and relevant suggestions were given. A total of 1 026 179 records are retrieved, of which 82.64% are cosmetics containing plant materials. Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fisch. is the most frequently used plant source material, and the use form of plant materials is mostly compound. Through data analysis, it is found that cosmetics containing plant materials have become the mainstream of ordinary cosmetics in China, but more attention should be paid to quality control of plant materials and basic research should be increased in the future, such as research on the mechanism of action of effective ingredients and scientific compatibility of ingredients. It is suggested to strengthen the cooperation and resource sharing between cosmetics enterprises and promote the integration of government, industry, colleges and universities, promote the plant materials production and use of standardization. It can provide theoretical support for the development of cosmetics with innovative and characteristic plant materials and the extension of the plant materials industry chain.

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    磁性纳米Fe3O4吸附材料的制备及在废水处理中的应用
    Preparation of magnetic nano-Fe3O4 and its application in wastewater treatment
    赵峰滔,李宣镜,李恩泽,杜志平,李剑锋,申婧
    2022 (8):  882-891.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.08.014
    摘要 ( 194 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF(1247KB) ( 211 )  

    随着工业化进程的加快,一些含染料、难降解污染物、乳液等的有机废水大量排放,对人类和大自然都造成了不可逆转的危害,因此开发一种吸附容量大、分离效果好、循环稳定的吸附剂用于废水处理富有重要意义。磁性纳米Fe3O4复合材料具有选择性好、可快速分离、可循环利用等优点,在有机废水处理方面具有良好的应用前景,近年来受到科研工作者和水处理行业的广泛关注。文章首先介绍了磁性纳米Fe3O4吸附材料的制备方法,一些含有特定功能基团的吸附材料进行磁改性方法,及其对磁性吸附材料工业化生产促进作用;其次通过追踪在实际有机废水应用的研究动态,归纳总结了磁性复合材料的吸附机理;最后对磁性材料的发展前景进行了展望。从现有研究可以看出,今后应该开发更高效、适用范围更广的复合纳米Fe3O4磁性材料,并针对不同水质,进一步优化磁性Fe3O4纳米材料的制备方案,减少使用过程中的环境健康影响,增加其循环再生性能。

    With the acceleration of industrialization, a large amount of wastewater containing emulsions, dyes, and refractory organics have been discharged, causing irreversible harm to both human beings and nature. Therefore, it is of great significance to develop an adsorbent with large adsorption capacity and good separation effect for wastewater treatment. Magnetic nano-Fe3O4, with the advantages of good selectivity, rapid separation and being recyclable, has been widely concerned by scientists and engineers for its promising application. Herein, the preparation methods of magnetic nano-Fe3O4 adsorbents and the modified nano-Fe3O4 containing specific functional groups are introduced. The adsorption mechanism of magnetic composite materials is concluded by tracing the research trends in actual wastewater application. It is suggested that the preparation of magnetic nanomaterials should be further optimized in order to meet the needs of different wastewater, and more efficient and more widely applicable compounds should be developed to reduce the impact on environment, and to increase their desorption regeneration performance and improve recycling efficiency.

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    松香基双子表面活性剂合成及应用进展
    Progress in synthesis and application of rosin based gemini surfactants
    赵淑芬,郑丹苗,刘华溪,宋松林,陈站,杨泞源,韦星船
    2022 (8):  892-903.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.08.015
    摘要 ( 281 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF(1741KB) ( 205 )  

    松香是一种重要的天然化工原料,无毒、可再生,应用十分广泛。松香系列双子表面活性剂主要是以松香酸及其衍生物合成,属于生物基表面活性剂,具有天然松香绿色环保、良好的表面性能以及良好的生物降解性能等特点,其分子设计合成、性能检测及应用开发成为研究热点。根据松香基双子表面活性剂亲水基的解离性质不同,按照阴离子型、阳离子型、两性型和非离子型对松香基双子表面活性剂进行分类,概括了近年来松香基双子表面活性剂的研究进展,探讨了松香基双子表面活性剂的各种性能,简述了各类松香基双子表面活性剂的合成方法、性能特点及应用领域,展望了松香基型双子表面活性剂的发展趋势。

    It is necessary to develop environment-friendly and sustainable surfactants owing to the more and more attention to environment, ecology and sustainable development and the rapid reduction of petroleum resources. Rosin is an important natural chemical raw material, which is non-toxic, renewable, and widely used. Rosin-based gemini surfactants are mainly synthesized from abietic acid and its derivatives, which belong to bio-based surfactants. They are green, environment-friendly and have good surface activity and good biodegradability. Their design and synthesis, performance test and application development have become research hotspots. According to the different properties of headgroups, rosin-based gemini surfactants are classified into anionic, cationic, amphoteric and non-ionic types. In this review, the research progress of rosin-based gemini surfactants in recent years is summarized. The performance of rosin-based gemini surfactants is discussed. The synthetic methods, performance characteristics and application of various rosin-based gemini surfactants are briefly described. The development trend of rosin-based gemini surfactants is also prospected.

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    皮脂腺在护肤领域的研究进展
    Research progress of sebaceous glands in the field of skin care
    王倩,刘菲,杨素珍,韩婷婷,王晓梅,陈玉荣
    2022 (8):  904-912.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.08.016
    摘要 ( 475 )   HTML ( 37 )   PDF(1199KB) ( 590 )  

    近年来,寻常痤疮、特应性皮炎等损容性皮肤病的发病率明显增加,其发病机理与皮脂腺功能异常密切相关。皮脂腺存在于真皮层,是皮肤的重要附属器官之一,其上存在着大量受体,受多种机制调控,其功能异常会造成多种皮肤问题。但目前国内对皮肤脂质的研究多针对于细胞间脂质,对皮脂腺分泌的脂质的作用机制研究还不够深入,临床应用与护肤品开发仍需大量基础研究支撑。文章从护肤角度对皮脂腺维持皮肤屏障功能、参与炎症反应、调控衰老进程以及调控肤色方面的作用机制进行了总结,并对皮脂腺相关皮肤问题、皮脂腺功能相关检测方法以及与皮脂腺调控相关的护肤品成分等进行了系统的概述,旨在为皮脂腺功能相关的皮肤护理和皮肤问题解决提供参考依据。

    In recent years, the incidence of disfiguring dermatosis such as acne vulgaris and atopic dermatitis has increased significantly, and its pathogenesis is closely related to abnormal sebaceous gland function. Sebaceous glands, located in the dermis, are important skin appendages. There are a large number of receptors on the sebaceous glands, which are regulated by a variety of factors. Abnormity in functions of sebaceous glands may cause a variety of skin problems. However, currently, domestic researchers have mostly paid attention to intercellular lipids, while the effects and mechanism of the sebum are not explored in depth, which causes lack of sufficient theoretical support in clinical application and the development of skin care products. In this paper, the mechanisms by which sebaceous glands maintain skin barrier function, participate in inflammation, and regulate senescence process and skin color from the perspective of skin care are summarized. Skin problems, detection methods and skin care ingredients related to sebaceous glands are systematically reviewed, aiming to provide references for solving relevant problems in skin care.

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