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Table of Content

    22 April 2024, Volume 54 Issue 4 Previous Issue    Next Issue
    Basic research
    A new method for quantitative determination of Triton X-405 in high-mineralization water based on β-cyclodextrin
    Jianxiao Sun, Jianglu Jing, Yuan Wang, Qinghu Fan, Wenliang Xiao, Dongpo Shi
    2024, 54 (4):  369-375.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.04.001
    Abstract ( 71 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1297KB) ( 46 )  

    High-salinity oilfield fracturing water has interference on the quantitative analysis of polyethylene glycol tert-octylphenyl ether (Triton X-405) by ultraviolet spectroscopy. In this work, an appropriate amount of β-cyclodextrin (β-CD) was added as a “shielding” agent to reduce the interference of fracturing water. The results showed that the fracturing water could significantly reduce the absorbance and critical micelle concentration (cmc) of Triton X-405. In fracturing water, the absorbance of 100.0 mg/L Triton X-405 was decreased by 6.67% at the maximum absorption wavelength of 224 nm, and the cmc of Triton X-405 was also reduced from 103.978 mg/L to 97.056 mg/L. The impact of fracturing water on the absorbance of Triton X-405 could be significantly reduced by adding equimolar β-CD, and the decrease in absorbance of 100.0 mg/L Triton X-405 at 224 nm was only 1.99%. Triton X-405 could not form micelles in the mass concentration range of 20.0-160.0 mg/L by adding β-CD in water or in fracturing water. As a result, the recovery of Triton X-405 in fracturing water was improved from 88.3%-97.4% to 97.5%-99.6%. The results of FT IR, 1H NMR and the method of continuous variations indicated that Triton X-405 and β-CD could form 1∶1 inclusion complex, and the Triton X-405 molecule could enter into the CD cavity both from the narrow rim and the wide rim. The shielding effect due to the formation of inclusion complex suppressed the interference of fracturing water on the determination of Triton X-405. The work could provide a new guidance for accurately determining Triton X-405 in high-salinity fracturing water.

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    Preparation of AC@Fe3O4 and its adsorption of emulsion from water
    Wenjie Ding, Jing Shen, Xiaona Dong, Zhiping Du, Shujun Wang
    2024, 54 (4):  376-384.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.04.002
    Abstract ( 63 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1650KB) ( 35 )  

    The treatment of mine water has become increasingly difficult due to the afflux of hydraulic support emulsion. With the advantages of large specific surface area and adsorption capacity, powdered activated carbon (AC) has been widely used in water treatment. However, for ordinary AC, there are difficulties in separation and recycling after adsorption of organic pollutants. Herein, activated carbon supported Fe3O4 (AC@Fe3O4) was prepared with chemical coprecipitation by using AC, FeCl3·6H2O and FeCl2·4H2O as raw materials, and the product was used to adsorb the hydraulic support emulsion from water. The results showed that the adsorption equilibrium could be reached at 90 min. At the volume fraction of emulsion of 0.5%, temperature of 25 ℃ and oscillation rate of 200 r/min, the adsorption capacity was 1.07 mL/g. The study of adsorption kinetics showed that the adsorption of emulsion at AC@Fe3O4 was more consistent with pseudo-second-order model, indicating that the adsorption of emulsion on magnetic activated carbon was mainly chemical adsorption. The Langmuir isotherm model had a high fitting degree for the adsorption of emulsion on magnetic activated carbon, in which the theoretical saturated adsorption capacity calculated by fitting was 1.51 mL/g. In the experiment, the optimized adsorption capacity could reach 1.07 mL/g. After adsorption, external magnetic force was used to realize complete liquid-solid separation. In methanol, more than 90% emulsion could be desorbed from the AC@Fe3O4 after adsorption. After 5 cycles, the AC@Fe3O4 still maintained excellent performance of adsorption and desorption. This work could provide a novel strategy for efficient recycling and reutilization of activated carbon in treatment of the waste water containing emulsion.

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    Lecture of science and technology
    Botanical cosmetic ingredients (VIII)Research and development of plant antibacterial
    Shiyu Deng, Xu Sun, Jianming Jin, Hua Wu
    2024, 54 (4):  385-392.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.04.003
    Abstract ( 103 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1499KB) ( 77 )  

    Bacteria are found nearly everywhere on earth, and are the largest population in human skin microbiome. Due to the considerable negative effects of the conventional cosmetic preservatives, their long-term use is likely to disrupt the balance of skin bacterial population, then cause skin disorders or diseases. As natural preservatives, the antibacterial components in plants can reduce or eliminate the negative effects brought by conventional cosmetic preservatives. This paper introduced the mechanisms and the targets of antibacterial plant extracts, and summarized the different kinds of antibacterial components in plants, including phenolics, terpenes, alkaloids, flavones, phenylpropanoids, quinones and essential oils. The antibacterial components cause cell death, mainly by inhibiting the activities of peptidoglycan synthases, which leads to inhibit bacterial cell wall formation, destruct the cell membrane structure or modify cell membrane permeability, resulting in the leakage of intracellular components. The antibacterial effects of phenolics and alkaloids are mainly through inhibiting cell protein synthesis, the nucleic acid synthesis, DNA helicases and DNA topoisomerases, or basal metabolism and energy metabolism. Phenylpropanoids can inhibit bacterial growth by inhibiting DNA topoisomerases or cell membrane proton pumps. Some antibacterial components from plants also can inhibit bacterial biofilm formation. This paper has reviewed different kinds of antibacterial components from plants, with the aim to provide information for a better application of plant extracts in cosmetics.

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    Development and application
    Compositional analysis of dark tea seed oil and its protective effect against H2O2-induced oxidative damage in HFF-1 cells
    Jian Li, Jianming Deng, Yuancheng Huang, Min Yu, Guangli Wang, Jing Wang
    2024, 54 (4):  393-400.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.04.004
    Abstract ( 91 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (1997KB) ( 72 )  

    The active components of tea seed oil and its antioxidant activity were studied. The contents of three unsaturated fatty acids (oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid) and α-tocopherol in Camellia Sinensis and Camellia Oleifera Abel seed oils from different producing areas, as well as the Camellia Japonica seed oil were analyzed by chromatography. Results show that the total content of three kinds of unsaturated fatty acids is 83.72%, and the content of α-tocopherol is 1.33 mg/g for the Camellia Camellia Sinensis (dark tea) seed oil, which values are higher that of the other kinds of seed oils. Moreover, the scavenging abilities of Camellia Sinensis (dark tea) seed oil for 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2’-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonicacid) (ABTS) and hydroxyl radicals were tested, and the results show that at a mass concentration of 0.15 g/mL, the scavenging rates to DPPH and ABTS radicals are 93.08% and 94.85%, respectively. While the scavenging rate to hydroxyl radicals is 91.25% at a mass concentration of 0.3 g/mL, which shows a better radical scavenging effect than other tea seed oils. In addition, the inhibitory effects of Camellia Sinensis (dark tea) seed oil on hydrogen peroxide induced oxidative stress and senescence of human fibroblasts (HFF-1) were also determined. The results of cell proliferation test, reactive oxygen species (ROS) test and β-galactosidase staining experiment show that Camellia Sinensis (dark tea) seed oil has a certain inhibitory effect on hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative stress in HFF-1 cells at mass concentrations of 10 to 50 μg/mL, exhibiting antioxidant and anti-aging activities.

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    In vivo molecular mechanism of surfactant-induced skin irritation and skin protection by confocal Raman spectroscopy
    Yifan He, Wenhai Wu, Munan Su, Xiaolong Jiang, Yuhong Liu
    2024, 54 (4):  401-409.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.04.005
    Abstract ( 87 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (2138KB) ( 55 )  

    To better understand the molecular mechanism of surfactant-induced skin damage and skin protection, human (skin endogenous), exogenous substances (irritant and active ingredient against irritant), and the interaction between them need to be explored simultaneously. However, there are few reports in real-time of the mechanism at molecular level on humans. Confocal Raman spectroscopy allows such investigation with in vivo, real-time, non-invasive analysis of both substances (endogenous or exogenous) in stratum corneum (SC) and the structure of SC. In this study, the relative amount and depth of transdermal absorption of sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) chosen as surfactant representative, and the changes in relative content and structure of skin lipids upon SDS invasion were measured qualitatively and semi-quantitatively by scanning volunteers’ skin of volar forearm at the depth of 0-12 μm with confocal Roman spectrometer. It showed that SDS was absorbed in SC, causing its lipid loss and lipid order reduction. The evidence that the amount and depth of irritant are two main factors affecting the extent of stimulation in skin was provided based on human data for the first time. The third factor, which could enhance SDS-induced barrier damage called the “conduction network of stimuli” was found in humans for the first time. The results of skin interior studied by Raman spectroscopy, combined with other techniques, including 3D skin model, Skin Surface Analyzer etc., all were in good agreement, which came to the molecular mechanism of SDS-induced skin/barrier damage and skin protection of what happened in the real world. The proposals were confirmed by the efficacy of surfactant antagonist called ASF thus designed by the fact that compared with the absence of antagonist, the damage to the skin barrier function caused by SDS could be reduced efficiently.

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    Preparation and characterization of carvacrol-loaded gliadin-pectin nanoparticles
    Xueer Xu, Shaodi Jin, Lan Wang
    2024, 54 (4):  410-418.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.04.006
    Abstract ( 47 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1522KB) ( 31 )  

    As a natural and efficient antioxidant, carvacrol has a good antibacterial and antioxidant properties. But the carvacrol has lower bioavailability than some neurotrophic substance due to its poor water solubility. To solve this problem, the gliadin/pectin-carvacrol were prepared by anti solvent method, using gliadin as the material, and pectin as a crosslinker. The effects of different mass ratios of gliadin and pectin, different mass ratios of gliadin and carvacrol, pH value, salt ion concentration and storage time on the stability of composite nanoparticles were investigated by the means of particle size analyzer and optical photographs. The results show that the particle size of the composite nanoparticles is 179.23 nm, the polydispersity index (PDI) is 0.21, and the Zeta-potential is -36.42 mV with m(gliadin) ∶m(pectin)=1∶1.5. Moreover, the encapsulation efficiency is 85.23% with the m(gliadin) ∶m(carvacrol)=10∶1. When the pH=3.0-9.0 and salt ion concentration is lower than 50 mmol/L, the composite nanoparticles loaded with carvacrol have a good stability, and the storage experiment shows that the system is uniform and stable within 28 days. The results of transmission electron microscopy also show that pectin and gliadin formed a stable spherical structure through the electrostatic interaction. In addition, the antioxidant experiments show that the composite nanoparticles loaded with carvacrol can effectively eliminate free radicals and prevent food oxidation, and the IC50 of DPPH radical scavenging activity is (13.21±0.81) μg/mL, which has a good application prospect in the field of food preservation and packaging.

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    Research on the rheological properties of sodium carboxymethyl cellulose in glycerol-water mixed solvents
    Yan Gao, Lei Xiao
    2024, 54 (4):  419-424.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.04.007
    Abstract ( 77 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1307KB) ( 31 )  

    The rheological properties of sodium carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC) in glycerol-water mixed solvents with different mass fractions of glycerol were studied on an Anton Paar MCR 302 Rheometer. The mass fractions of glycerol were 0%, 20%, 40%, 60% and 80%, respectively. The results showed that the CMC in different mixed solvents showed no yield stress and they were pseudoplastic fluids with shear-thinning behavior. With the increase of glycerol content, the viscosity of the CMC solution gradually increased; the shear-thinning properties became more obvious; the recovery of solution structure became slow; and the CMC solution gradually changed from a viscoelastic fluid to a viscoelastic solid, in which the internal structure was strengthened and the rigidity was increased. After high-temperature treatment, the viscosities of CMC solutions in the mixed solvents were significantly increased, and the increment was increased with the increase of glycerol content. The molecular backbones of hydrophilic polysaccharide polymers such as CMC have hydroxyl groups and can form hydrogen bonds. The glycerol molecule contains three hydroxyl groups, and its ability of formation of hydrogen bonds with water is strong. Therefore, glycerol can promote the hydrogen bonding between hydroxyl groups in the system, i.e., increase the number of hydrogen bonds and the strength of hydrogen bonding, and thus increase the entanglement of molecular chains and molecular segments.

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    Study on dilution stability of amino modified silicone oil softener
    Aide Wang, Jinde Cui, Lili Liang, Linhan Zhang, Yuncan Cao, Qingrun Liu
    2024, 54 (4):  425-430.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.04.008
    Abstract ( 52 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (1237KB) ( 31 )  

    Silicone oil softener plays an important role in the treatment of textiles, but with the improvement of the quality requirements for textiles, the general silicone oil softener has been unable to meet the demand. Under this background, the dilution stability of amino modified silicone oil softener was studied. The basic silicone oil compound was prepared and modified with amino acid containing amino acid. The delamination test, surface tension test and water permeability test were carried out under dilution multiple for amino modified silicone oil softener. The results show that under the centrifugal stability, acid resistance stability and alkali resistance stability tests, the solution does not show delamination. While the thermal stability and electrolyte resistance stability test items show delamination, the proportion coefficient is below 0.1, indicating that the amino modified silicone oil softener maintains good stability after dilution. With the increase of dilution ratio, the surface tension of amino modified silicone oil softener becomes smaller and smaller, and the light transmittance becomes larger and larger. With the extension of time, although both of them are fluctuating, they ultimately remain at a certain level, proving the stability of their performance.

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    Effects of sesamolin on AQP3 expression and Nrf2 signaling pathway activation in skin photoaging mice
    Gengtao Han, Zhuo Dong, Renhui Yao
    2024, 54 (4):  431-438.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.04.009
    Abstract ( 61 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (1699KB) ( 44 )  

    The study aimed to reveal the effect of Sesamolin (SES) on skin photoaging mice induced by ultraviolet B (UVB). Mice were randomly divided into five groups (n=12): control group, UVB group, low dose SES group (L-SES), medium dose SES group (M-SES) and high dose SES group (H-SES). Mice in control group were not irradiated with UVB, while mice in other groups were irradiated with UVB for 8 weeks. In addition, from the day of irradiation, mice in L-SES group, M-SES group and H-SES group were administrated with 0.5 mL Sesamolin solution of 20, 40 and 80 mg/(kg·d), respectively, for a total of 8 weeks. After administration, the water content of epidermis of mice in each group was measured. Skin morphology was evaluated by HE staining and collagen deposition was evaluated by Masson trichrome staining. The levels of oxidative stress indexes (SOD, CAT, GSH-Px and MDA) in skin tissue were measured. The mRNA or protein levels of MMP-1, Collagen I, Nrf2, Keap1, HO-1 and AQP3 in skin tissue were detected by RT-qPCR and Western blotting. Compared with UVB group, the water content of epidermis in L-SES group, M-SES group and H-SES group increases, the thickness of epidermis decreases, the skin lesion alleviates, the collagen fibers arrange neatly, the collagen density increases, the expression levels of MMP-1 mRNA and protein decrease, the expression levels of Collagen I mRNA and protein increase, the levels of SOD, CAT and GSH-Px increase, the level of MDA decreases, and the relative expression levels of mRNA and protein in Nrf2 and HO-1 increase, the relative expression levels of Keap1 mRNA and protein decrease, while the relative expression levels of mRNA and protein of AQP3 increase (P<0.05). Sesamolin can increase the water content and antioxidant capacity of mouse epidermis in a dose-dependent manner and reduce skin injury. The mechanism may be related to the up-regulation of AQP3 expression and activation of Nrf2 signal pathway.

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    A review on application and development of fermentation cosmetics based on database visualization
    Zhongjie Hua, Wenxuan Mao, Feiqian Di, Jiachan Zhang, Changtao Wang
    2024, 54 (4):  439-448.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.04.010
    Abstract ( 63 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (9613KB) ( 70 )  

    As the attention of consumers to the “natural, green and safe” cosmetics is increasing, the development of fermentation cosmetics has made great progress in the past five years. Thanks to various research methods, domestic and foreign researchers have effectively improved the activity and content of active ingredients in fermentation products. With the help of bibliometric methods and knowledge graph visualization software named VOSviewer, this paper analyzed the literatures from 2018 to 2023 in CNKI database and Web of Science core database. A database in the field of fermentation-source cosmetic were established, taking “cosmetic” and “fermentation” or “fermented” as the key words. According to the knowledge graph, the results were summarized to introduce the development of fermentation cosmetics during the past five years. Diverse fermentation strains and products are classified, and so is the efficacy of raw materials after fermentation. While analyzing the visualization graph, more importance is attached to fermentation strains, especially Saccharomyces cerevisiae for producing some relative cosmetic raw materials. In addition, other parts like fermentation production and product efficacy are mentioned to review the past-five-year achievements. Moreover, the development of future fermentation cosmetics is prospected in this paper. In the near future, fermented cosmetics raw materials will be used more and more frequently. With characteristics and advantages, green, eco-friendly and easy-to-obtain, fermentation cosmetics will eventually be developed during future researches.

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    Reviews
    Advancements in the efficient dissolution methods of hydrophobically associating polymers
    Shaolin Deng, Pengfei Zhou, Yulong Zhu
    2024, 54 (4):  449-456.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.04.011
    Abstract ( 61 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1241KB) ( 51 )  

    Hydroobically associating polymers demonstrate significant potential in enhancing oil recovery, yet their hydrophobic group structure has brought dissolution characteristics to the forefront of research. This review encapsulates recent advancements in the efficient dissolution of hydrophobically associating polymers, and analyzes the challenges encountered and future directions. It highlights strategies such as employing chemical agents to mask the associative effects of hydrophobic groups, using methods like screen cutting and colloidal milling to increase contact area between water and polymer particles, and accelerating polymer dissolution through altering intrinsic solubility, increasing solution mass concentration or temperature, and optimizing mixer types and agitation methods to enhance system entropy change. While chemical approaches enable rapid dissolution without compromising polymer performance, considerations regarding cost and environmental impact remain. Physical methods, though economically efficient, may lead to risk mechanical and thermal degradation of the solution, potentially diminishing viscosity enhancement performance and oil displacement efficiency. These methods also face challenges in equipment transportation, energy consumption, and spatial constraints. Therefore, developing new eco-friendly solvents and optimizing process equipment are critical for achieving efficient dissolution of hydrophobically associating polymers. Moreover, considering the synergistic effect of various efficient dissolution methods, adjustments will be made according to practical application scenarios, in order to expand the large-scale application of hydrophobically associating polymers in diverse fields.

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    Recent advances of surfactants and their adsorption characteristics in oil recovery
    Zilong Liu, Yanxiao Hei, Di Shi, Yufei Xiao, Xue Li
    2024, 54 (4):  457-466.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.04.012
    Abstract ( 67 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1369KB) ( 59 )  

    Enhanced oil recovery is an important guarantee for increasing energy production in China. Chemical flooding based on surfactants is an important method to enhance oil recovery. The classification of surfactants used in oil displacement were introduced. The physicochemical characteristics of surfactants and their advantages and disadvantages in oil displacement were also introduced in detail, including the widely used anionic, zwitterionic and nonionic surfactants and the rarely used Gemini surfactants. As the demand of oil industry is changing, synthesis of green surfactants with low cost and high efficiency has become the main trend of future development. During the process of oil displacement, the adsorption of surfactants will reduce the effective concentration of surfactants in solution, resulting in the significant decrease of oil displacement efficiency. Therefore, herein, the research progress of adsorption properties of surfactants used in oil displacement at solid-liquid interface was also reviewed. The adsorption isotherm models are mainly used to describe the relationship between the amount adsorbed at solid-liquid interface and the surfactant concentration after equilibrium at constant temperature. The adsorption kinetic models can be used to evaluate the relationship between adsorption rate and time, revealing the mechanism of adsorption. To describe the adsorption properties of surfactants more comprehensively and accurately, it is necessary to develop new adsorption models and use multiple models in combination.

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    Research progress on the preparation of selenium disulfide and its application in the field of toiletries
    Shiqiong Wang, Xiaochun Liu, Yunping Lan, Xiangling Kong, Laicheng Chen, Qiuxing He
    2024, 54 (4):  467-476.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.04.013
    Abstract ( 105 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (1303KB) ( 98 )  

    Selenium disulfide is a generic term for mixtures of SemSn with a polycyclic ring structure, which has different ring structures interconverting with each other in the molten and solution states. Selenium disulfide is commonly synthesized by fusion and chemical methods, while nanosized selenium disulfide is commonly synthesized by electrochemical and green synthesis methods. Its commonly used characterization methods are X-ray diffraction analysis (XRD), Scanning electron microscope (SEM), Transmission electron microscope (TEM), X-ray energy spectrometry (EDS), Dynamic light scattering (DLS) and Fourier transform infrared spectrometer (FT-IR). Selenium disulfide is a cell growth inhibitor and a keratolytic agent, with anti-seborrhea, anti-fungal and anti-bacterial effects, which can inhibits nuclear division, resulting in reduced epidermal cell turnover. It is commonly used in the treatment of seborrheic dermatitis and lichen planus because of its antipruritic, anti-inflammatory and anti-dandruff properties. Sulfur and selenium are both elements with multiple atomic valences that can exhibit both reducing and oxidizing properties. Their potential has made the molecular structure, performance characteristics and application development of selenium disulfide a research hotspot. This paper reviews the selenium disulfide properties, structural features, preparation methods, characterization and applications, and gives an outlook on its future development trend.

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    Analytical methods and testing
    Determination of 18 preservatives and anti-dandruff agents in shampoo and hair care products by HPLC
    Zhuangfei Zhu, Qinke Xu, Tingyuan Liu, Ying Sun, Hong Lei
    2024, 54 (4):  477-483.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.04.014
    Abstract ( 95 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (1131KB) ( 74 )  

    A high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method for simultaneous determination of 18 preservatives and anti-dandruff components in cosmetics of different bases was established, and the quality of 50 batches of commercially available shampoo and hair care cosmetics was analyzed. After the extraction of samples of different bases, the samples were analyzed by HPLC and quantified by external standard method. A C18 column (4.6 mm×250 mm, 5 μm) was used and an aqueous mixture of methanol and sodium dihydrogen phosphate (pH adjusted to 3.8) was selected as mobile phase for gradient elution. The flow rate was 1.0 mL/min. The column temperature was 30 ℃. The chromatographic separation of the 18 components was good. The linearity between peak area and mass concentration was good (r>0.998 3) in the range of 0.4-600 μg/mL, and the detection limit was 0.4-10 mg/kg. The average recoveries (n=6) were 83.1%-110.4%, the RSDs were 0.12%-7.6%, and the recoveries were good. These components remained stable within 24 h with RSDs ranging from 0.15% to 3.8%, indicative of good stability. Nine components were detected in 50 batches of samples, including pyrithione zinc, piroctone olamine, p-chloro-m-cresol, climbazole, triclosan and salicylic acid, whose content was 2 100-6 800, 39-2 900, 130-370, 24-1 600, 0.14-0.19, 28-1 900 mg/kg, respectively. Benzyl chlorophenol, o-aminophenol and o-cymen-5-ol were detected, but their content was less than the limit of quantitation and thus could not be accurately quantified. Therefore, this method could be used to simultaneously determine the 18 antiseptic and anti-dandruff components in cosmetics.

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    Simultaneous determination of 24 whitening components in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography
    Wei Tao, Xiang Li
    2024, 54 (4):  484-489.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.04.015
    Abstract ( 75 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1224KB) ( 45 )  

    The study aimed to establish a high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method for simultaneous determination of 24 kinds of whitening ingredient in cosmetics. The mobile phase was methanol and monopotassium phosphate solution with gradient elution, the chromatographic column was SHISEIDO MGⅡ C18 column (5 μm, 4.6 mm×250 mm), the temperature of the column was set at 25 ℃ with a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min, and the detection wavelengths were 230 nm and 250 nm. The results show that the linear correlation of 24 whitening active ingredients is good in the range of 0.3-608.0 μg/mL, and the linear relationships are all higher than 0.999. The limits of detection are 8.1-438.4 μg/g, the limits of quantitation are 60.4-1 461.4 μg/g and the average recoveries are 87.34%-103.78%, with RSD of 0.16%-4.35%. The method is simple, reliable and can be used for the determination of whitening components in cosmetics.

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    Qualitative screening and quantitative analysis of 42 restricted hair dyes in oxidative hair color products by high performance liquid chromatography
    Xue Zuo, Zheng Di, Yajing Wang, Ling Yang, Huajun Zhang, Qing Liu
    2024, 54 (4):  490-498.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.04.016
    Abstract ( 63 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1211KB) ( 39 )  

    A method for qualitative screening and quantitative analysis of 42 restricted hair dyes in oxidative hair color products by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) was established. The sample was ultrasonically extracted in mixed solvent of aqueous sodium bisulfite solution and ethanol. Firstly, the liquid chromatography condition for qualitative screening of 42 dyes and for quantitative analysis of 35 of them was established, which was as follows: The mobile phase was the mixed solvent of aqueous solution of 0.02 mol/L ammonium acetate and acetonitrile; gradient elution was carried out on a TechMate AQUA-STIII column; the detection wavelengths were 235 nm and 280 nm. If the other seven dyes including 2,6-dimethoxy-3,5-pyridinediamine·HCl, 2-methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol, 3-nitro-p-hydroxyethylaminophenol, pyrazolone methyl pyrazolone, hydroxypropyl bis(N-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine)·HCl, 4-chlororesorcinol and 6-hydroxyindole were detected in the products, another liquid chromatography condition was required for their quantitative analysis, which was as follows: The mobile phase was the mixed solvent of aqueous solution of 0.02 mol/L ammonium acetate and acetonitrile; isocratic elution was carried out on a Waters Symmetry C18 column; the detection wavelength was 235 nm. The results showed that the limits of detection (LODs) of the 42 dyes were from 10 µg/g to 101 µg/g, while the limits of quantification (LOQs) were from 33 µg/g to 337 µg/g. The 42 dyes all had good linearities in their respective range, with correlation coefficients (r) higher than 0.999 8. The average spiked recoveries of 42 dyes at four levels were from 81.3% to 119.6%, with RSDs no more than 5%.

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