干性敏感性皮肤发生机制及护理策略研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2026.08.014

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

干性敏感性皮肤是一种常见且复杂的皮肤状态，兼具干性和敏感性皮肤特征，其相关问题受到越来越多关注，但其发生机制尚不完全明晰。文章系统综述其特征表现及可能的发生机制，包括原发诱因、屏障功能受损、炎症免疫反应及神经血管高反应性。基于机制分析，提出原发因素管理、皮肤屏障修复、炎症缓解及神经舒缓与感觉调节的护理策略。文章还探讨未来研究方向，包括机制层面的解析、个体化护理及新型活性成分开发。这些机制导向的护理措施可为干性敏感性皮肤的科学管理、功能性护肤品研发及临床实践提供参考。

关键词: 干性敏感性皮肤, 原发诱因, 皮肤屏障, 炎症反应, 神经血管高反应性, 皮肤护理

Abstract:

Dry sensitive skin is a common and complex skin condition, characterized by features of both dry and sensitive skin. With increasing environmental stressors and improper skincare practices, related issues have drawn growing attention, yet the underlying mechanisms remain incompletely understood. This review systematically summarizes the clinical manifestations and potential pathogenic mechanisms of dry sensitive skin, including primary triggers, impaired barrier function, inflammatory and immune responses, and neurovascular hyperreactivity. Based on these mechanistic insights, we propose targeted management strategies, focusing on primary trigger control, skin barrier restoration, inflammation alleviation, and neurosensory soothing and modulation. Future research directions are also addressed, encompassing fine-scale mechanistic studies, individualized care strategies, and the development of novel active ingredients. These mechanism-oriented approaches provide a theoretical basis for the scientific management of dry sensitive skin and offer guidance for functional cosmetic development and clinical practice.

Key words: dry sensitive skin, primary triggers, skin barrier, inflammatory response, neurovascular hyperreactivity, skin care

中图分类号:

TQ658

冯晓月. 干性敏感性皮肤发生机制及护理策略研究[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2026, 56(8): 1103-1110.

Xiaoyue Feng. Pathophysiology and care strategies for dry sensitive skin[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2026, 56(8): 1103-1110.

图/表 1

参考文献 59

[1]	Proksch E, Berardesca E, Misery L, et al. Dry skin management: practical approach in light of latest research on skin structure and function[J]. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 2020, 31(7): 716-722. doi: 10.1080/09546634.2019.1607024
[2]	Misery L, Boussetta S, Nocera T, et al. Sensitive skin in Europe[J]. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 2009, 23(4): 376-381. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-3083.2008.03037.x pmid: 19335729
[3]	Richters R, Falcone D, Uzunbajakava N, et al. What is sensitive skin? A systematic literature review of objective measurements[J]. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2015, 28(2): 75-83. doi: 10.1159/000363149 pmid: 25322670
[4]	Fluhr J W, Moore D J, Lane M E, et al. Epidermal barrier function in dry, flaky and sensitive skin: A narrative review[J]. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 2024, 38(5): 812-820. doi: 10.1111/jdv.v38.5
[5]	孙瑞瑞, 张明杰, 张晔翔, 等. 油性敏感性皮肤的形成机制及护肤解决方案[J]. 香料香精化妆品, 2025 (3): 43-49.
[6]	Jiao Q, Zhi L, You B, et al. Skin homeostasis: Mechanism and influencing factors[J]. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2024, 23(5): 1518-1526. doi: 10.1111/jocd.v23.5
[7]	Hoober J K, Eggink L L. The discovery and function of filaggrin[J]. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2022, 23(3): 1455.
[8]	McGrath J A, Uitto J. The filaggrin story: novel insights into skin-barrier function and disease[J]. Trends in Molecular Medicine, 2008, 14(1): 20-27. doi: 10.1016/j.molmed.2007.10.006 pmid: 18068483
[9]	Zhong W L, Wu X, Yu B, et al. Filaggrin gene mutation c.3321delA is associated with dry phenotypes of atopic dermatitis in the Chinese Han population[J]. Chinese Medical Journal, 2016, 129(12): 1498-1500. doi: 10.4103/0366-6999.183424
[10]	Sergeant A, Campbell L E, Hull P R, et al. Heterozygous null alleles in filaggrin contribute to clinical dry skin in young adults and the elderly[J]. Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings, 2009, 129(4): 1042-1045.
[11]	Wang X, Liu J. Loss-of-function mutations in CST6 cause dry skin, desquamation and abnormal keratosis without hypotrichosis[J]. Clinical Genetics, 2023, 103(3): 301-309. doi: 10.1111/cge.v103.3
[12]	Farage M A. Psychological aspects of sensitive skin: a vicious cycle[J]. Cosmetics, 2022, 9(4): 78.
[13]	孙静怡, 高明萱, 姚新宇, 等. 特应性皮炎瘙痒机制研究进展[J]. 中国麻风皮肤病杂志, 2025 (10): 765-770.
[14]	Pandhi D, Inamadar A C, Saraswat A, et al. Spectrum of sensitive skin in India: a collaborative expert position statement[J]. Frontiers in Medicine, 2025, 12: 1625172. doi: 10.3389/fmed.2025.1625172
[15]	Augustin M, Wilsmann-Theis D, Körber A, et al. Diagnosis and treatment of xerosis cutis-a position paper[J]. Journal der Deutschen Dermatologischen Gesellschaft, 2019, 17(S7): 3-33.
[16]	Mijaljica D, Spada F. Skin cleansing without or with compromise: soaps and syndets[J]. Molecules, 2022, 27(6): 2010.
[17]	吴英达. SERPINB7通过抑制组织蛋白酶L酶活性影响表皮桥粒导致长岛型掌跖角化症的发病机制研究[D]. 北京: 北京协和医学院, 2025.
[18]	Harding C R, Long S, Richardson J, et al. The cornified cell envelope: an important marker of stratum corneum maturation in healthy and dry skin[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2003, 25(4): 157-167. doi: 10.1046/j.1467-2494.2003.00175.x pmid: 18494897
[19]	Xie H, Li L, Xiong L D, et al. The changes of skin barrier of patients with different facial dermatitis and the comparison of CE and KLK5[J]. Journal of Sichuan University (Medical Sciences), 2013, 44(6): 940-998.
[20]	Bouwstra J A, Nădăban A, Bras W, et al. The skin barrier: an extraordinary interface with an exceptional lipid organization[J]. Progress in Lipid Research, 2023, 92: 101252. doi: 10.1016/j.plipres.2023.101252
[21]	Aust N, Stein M, Saeed Z, et al. Metabolomic profiling of sebum in acne patients to identify precision treatment targets beyond isotretinoin[J]. Dermis, 2025, 5(3): 1-11.
[22]	Rawlings A V. Trends in stratum corneum research and the management of dry skin conditions[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2003, 25(1/2): 63-95. doi: 10.1046/j.1467-2494.2003.00174.x
[23]	黄政皖, 彭振刚, 颜欢, 等. 不同皮肤类型的脂质差异研究进展[J]. 香料香精化妆品, 2024 (6): 39-43.
[24]	Ooi K. Onset Mechanism and pharmaceutical management of dry skin[J]. Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 2021, 44(8): 1037-1043. doi: 10.1248/bpb.b21-00150 pmid: 34334489
[25]	Feng L, Chandar P, Lu N, et al. Characteristic differences in barrier and hygroscopic properties between normal and cosmetic dry skin. II. Depth profile of natural moisturizing factor and cohesivity[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2014, 36(3): 231-238. doi: 10.1111/ics.12118 pmid: 24517532
[26]	Raj N, Voegeli R, Rawlings A V, et al. A fundamental investigation into aspects of the physiology and biochemistry of the stratum corneum in subjects with sensitive skin[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2017, 39(1): 2-10. doi: 10.1111/ics.12334 pmid: 27079667
[27]	Richters R J, Falcone D, Uzunbajakava N E, et al. Sensitive skin: assessment of the skin barrier using confocal Raman microspectroscopy[J]. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2017, 30(1): 1-12. doi: 10.1159/000452152 pmid: 28122376
[28]	Bize C, Le Gélébart E, Moga A, et al. Barrier disruption, dehydration and inflammation: investigation of the vicious circle underlying dry skin[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2021, 43(6): 729-737. doi: 10.1111/ics.12748 pmid: 34716992
[29]	El-Serafi A T, El-Serafi I. A systematic review of keratinocyte secretions: a regenerative perspective[J]. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2022, 23(14): 7934.
[30]	Gratton R, Del Vecchio C. Unraveling the role of sex hormones on keratinocyte functions in human inflammatory skin diseases[J]. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2022, 23(6): 3132.
[31]	Lefèvre-Utile A, Braun C, Haftek M. Five functional aspects of the epidermal barrier[J]. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2021, 22(21): 11676.
[32]	Al‐Dhubaibi M S, Mohammed G F, Bahaj S S, et al. The role of keratinocytes in skin health and disease[J]. Dermatological Reviews, 2025, 6(2): e70028.
[33]	Hänel K H, Cornelissen C, Lüscher B, et al. Cytokines and the skin barrier[J]. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2013, 14(4): 6720-6745. doi: 10.3390/ijms14046720 pmid: 23531535
[34]	Lee H J, Kim M. Skin barrier function and the microbiome[J]. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2022, 23(21): 13071.
[35]	Moniaga C S, Tominaga M, Takamori K. Mechanisms and management of itch in dry skin[J]. Acta Dermato-Venereologica, 2020, 100(2): adv00024.
[36]	Szántó M, Oláh A, Szöllősi A G, et al. Activation of TRPV3 inhibits lipogenesis and stimulates production of inflammatory mediators in human sebocytes-a putative contributor to dry skin dermatoses[J]. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2019, 139(1): 250-253. doi: 10.1016/j.jid.2018.07.015
[37]	Lee W J, Shim W S. Cutaneous neuroimmune interactions of TSLP and TRPV4 play pivotal roles in dry skin-induced pruritus[J]. Frontiers in Immunology, 2021, 12: 772941. doi: 10.3389/fimmu.2021.772941
[38]	Duarte I, Silveira J, Hafner M F S, et al. Sensitive skin: review of an ascending concept[J]. Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia, 2017, 92(4): 521-525. doi: S0365-05962017000400521 pmid: 28954102
[39]	Xiao T, Sun M, Zhao C, et al. TRPV1: A promising therapeutic target for skin aging and inflammatory skin diseases[J]. Frontiers in Pharmacology, 2023, 14: 1037925. doi: 10.3389/fphar.2023.1037925
[40]	Chan B C L, Lam C W K, Tam L S, et al. IL33: roles in allergic inflammation and therapeutic perspectives[J]. Frontiers in Immunology, 2019, 10: 364. doi: 10.3389/fimmu.2019.00364 pmid: 30886621
[41]	Trier A M, Mack M R, Fredman A, et al. IL-33 signaling in sensory neurons promotes dry skin itch[J]. The Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology, 2022, 149(4): 1473-1480. doi: 10.1016/j.jaci.2021.09.014
[42]	Hu X Q, Zhang L. Role of transient receptor potential channels in the regulation of vascular tone[J]. Drug Discovery Today, 2024, 29(7): 104051.
[43]	Puppels G J, Hourihane J O, Nico C, et al. Highly accurate, noninvasive early identification of infants with a filaggrin loss-of-function mutation by in vivo Raman spectroscopy, followed from birth to 12 months[J]. Annals of Allergy, Asthma & Immunology, 2025, 134(4): 457-464.
[44]	Herrero-Fernandez M, Montero-Vilchez T. Impact of water exposure and temperature changes on skin barrier function[J]. Journal of Clinical Medicine, 2022, 11(2): 298.
[45]	Gebashe F C, Naidoo D, Amoo S O, et al. Cosmeceuticals: a newly expanding industry in South Africa[J]. Cosmetics, 2022, 9(4): 77.
[46]	Kim H Y, Ahn S H, Yang I J. Effect of hataedock treatment on epidermal structure maintenance through intervention in the endocannabinoid system[J]. Evidence-based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 2020 (1): 3605153.
[47]	Sahle F F, Gebre-Mariam T, Dobner B, et al. Skin diseases associated with the depletion of stratum corneum lipids and stratum corneum lipid substitution therapy[J]. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2015, 28(1): 42-55. doi: 10.1159/000360009 pmid: 25196193
[48]	Zettersten E M, Ghadially R, Feingold K R, et al. Optimal ratios of topical stratum corneum lipids improve barrier recovery in chronologically aged skin[J]. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 1997, 37(3): 403-408. doi: 10.1016/S0190-9622(18)30737-0
[49]	Baalham P, Birch I, Young M, et al. Xerosis of the feet: a comparative study on the effectiveness of two moisturizers[J]. British Journal of Community Nursing, 2011, 16(12): 591-597. pmid: 22413404
[50]	Rosik N, Preece J A, Fryer P J, et al. A review of artificial sebum formulations, their compositions, uses and physicochemical characteristics[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2025, 47(1): 168-189. doi: 10.1111/ics.v47.1
[51]	Maden S. Current approach to moisturizer and emollient utilization in atopic dermatitis: a review[J]. Exploration of Asthma & Allergy, 2024, 2(5): 441-449.
[52]	Moncrieff G, Cork M, Lawton S, et al. Use of emollients in dry-skin conditions: consensus statement[J]. Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, 2013, 38(3): 231-238. doi: 10.1111/ced.12104 pmid: 23517354
[53]	Eddin L B, Jha N K. Health benefits, pharmacological effects, molecular mechanisms, and therapeutic potential of α-bisabolol[J]. Nutrients, 2022, 14(7): 1370.
[54]	Drif A I, Yücer R. Anti-inflammatory and cancer-preventive potential of chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla L.) : a comprehensive in silico and in vitro study[J]. Biomedicines, 2024, 12(7): 1484.
[55]	Ma Q, Xie P, Zhan Y, et al. Elucidating forsythin’s anti-inflammatory action through modulation of the p38 MAPK pathway in SARS-CoV-2 infection[J]. Engineering, 2025, 54. DOI: 10.1016/j.eng.2025.01.020.
[56]	Chen P, He G, Qian J, et al. Potential role of the skin microbiota in inflammatory skin diseases[J]. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2021, 20(2): 400-409. doi: 10.1111/jocd.v20.2
[57]	Zhou L D, Lu Y N, Liu Q, et al. Modulation of TRPV1 function by Citrus reticulata (tangerine) fruit extract for the treatment of sensitive skin[J]. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2023, 22(4): 1369-1376. doi: 10.1111/jocd.v22.4
[58]	Ferreira M S, Sousa Lobo J M. Sensitive skin: active ingredients on the spotlight[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2022, 44(1): 56-73. doi: 10.1111/ics.v44.1
[59]	Sánchez-Peña M J, Magallón-Chávez O, Rivas-Loaiza J A. Neurocosmetics and aromatherapy through neurocutaneous receptors and their functional implications in cosmetics[J]. Cosmetics, 2025, 12(5): 179.

发生机制		针对性护理措施
原发诱因	生理性因素，如遗传因素	早期筛查与个体化护理
	病理性因素	医学治疗与基础护理
	外部环境和生活方式影响	避免寒冷、干燥及强紫外线环境，减少清洁剂、溶剂及高温沐浴等刺激，选择温和、弱酸性的护理产品
屏障功能受损	角质层结构改变	角质细胞结构修复：发酵蜜树提取物、豆豉提取物等
	细胞间脂质和皮脂异常	脂质重建：润肤剂，如植物油（大豆油、葵花籽油、葡萄籽油等）；生理性脂质，如神经酰胺、甘油三酯、游离脂肪酸；人工皮脂配方
	NMF减少	补充NMF；吸湿剂，如甘油、透明质酸、泛醇、乳酸、尿素、PCA；封闭剂，如凡士林、矿物油、羊毛脂、有机硅衍生物；润肤剂
炎症免疫反应	炎症易被激活、炎症级联反应异常放大	降低炎症级联反应：红没药醇、母菊花提取物、绿茶多酚、连翘提取物等
神经血管高反应性	神经末梢敏化、TRP通路过度激活、血管高反应	保湿剂+止痒或舒缓成分：如柑橘果提取物、乙酰基二肽-1鲸蜡酯；物理干预：如冷敷、保湿舒缓面膜；情绪护肤：茉莉、玫瑰、姜黄和生姜等精油