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日用化学工业(中英文) ›› 2026, Vol. 56 ›› Issue (8): 1038-1043.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2026.08.008

• 开发与应用 • 上一篇    下一篇

护发素配方模型的相结构及其对性能的影响

汤小芹*(),王莉娜,蔡小雪,张国栋,郑春颖   

  1. 上海自然堂集团有限公司上海 200233
  • 收稿日期:2025-09-24 修回日期:2026-08-03 出版日期:2026-08-22 发布日期:2026-09-02

Phase structure of hair conditioner formulation models and its impact on performance

Xiaoqin Tang*(),Lina Wang,Xiaoxue Cai,Guodong Zhang,Chunying Zheng   

  1. CHANDO GROUP, Shanghai 200233, China
  • Received:2025-09-24 Revised:2026-08-03 Online:2026-08-22 Published:2026-09-02
  • Contact: *E-mail: tangxiaoqin@chandogroup.com.

摘要:

采用冷冻扫描电镜、差示扫描量热法、流变测试与梳理性评价等多尺度表征手段,系统研究了护发素配方模型在80和65 ℃乳化工艺及室温储存过程中的相结构演变与性能变化。结果表明:65 ℃乳化工艺形成高度有序的平板薄片层状结构,其料体黏弹性、湿发梳理性显著优于80 ℃乳化工艺形成的囊泡-平板薄片混合结构;80 ℃乳化工艺样品经室温储存15天后,囊泡结构自发重组,出现融合、尺寸增大、并铺展形成连续的平板薄片层状结构趋势。结论显示:乳化温度是调控体系相结构与性能的关键因素,65 ℃工艺有利于获得结构稳定、性能优异的平板薄片结构;室温储存驱动亚稳态的囊泡结构向稳定态平板薄片结构演化,这解释了产品在储存后感官性能提升的动力学机制。

关键词: 护发素, 乳化温度, 相结构, 流变特性, 山嵛基三甲基氯化铵

Abstract:

The structural evolution and performance behavior of a hair conditioner model formulation, emulsified at two different temperatures (65 and 80 ℃) and monitored during subsequent room-temperature storage, were systematically investigated via techniques including cryo-SEM, DSC, rheology, and combing tests. The results demonstrate that the emulsion processed at 65 ℃ forms a highly ordered lamellar sheet structure, which exhibits significantly superior bulk viscoelasticity and wet-hair combing performance compared to the mixed vesicle-lamellar sheet structure formed at 80 ℃. Following 15 days of room temperature storage, samples prepared at 80 ℃ undergo spontaneous reorganization of the vesicular structures, characterized by fusion, an increase in size, and a tendency to flatten and form continuous lamellar sheets. These findings indicate that the emulsification temperature is a critical factor governing the phase structure and performance of the system. Specifically, the 65 ℃ process facilitates the formation of a structurally stable lamellar sheet structure with excellent properties. Room-temperature storage drives the transition from a metastable vesicular state towards the stable lamellar sheet state, thereby elucidating the kinetic mechanism behind the observed enhancement in sensory performance upon storage. This study provides new insights into the development and production of high-performance hair conditioners.

Key words: conditioner, emulsification temperature, phase structure, rheological properties, behentrimonium chloride

中图分类号: 

  • TQ658