化妆品中准用着色剂的检测方法和使用情况研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.05.011

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

概述了化妆品中着色剂的种类、安全风险和《化妆品安全技术规范》（2015年版）对准用着色剂的规定,介绍目前检测标准和文献方法所涵盖的准用着色剂范围,综述了液相色谱、液相色谱-质谱等方法在着色剂测定上的应用情况及其优劣,并对近年来市场上化妆品中准用着色剂的使用情况进行了分析,最后提出了着色剂检测技术的发展趋势。

关键词: 化妆品, 着色剂, 检测, 使用

Abstract:

The categories and safety risks of colorants in cosmetics, and the allowed colorants in “Cosmetics Safety Technical Specifications” （2015 Edition） were presented. The detection standards and cutting-edge methods referring the colorants that were legally used in cosmetics were introduced. The advantages and disadvantages of HPLC and HPLC-MS methods were introduced. The use of colorants allowed in cosmetics on the market in recent years was analyzed. Finally, the future trend of detection methods was proposed.

Key words: cosmetics, colorant, detection, application

中图分类号:

TQ658

顾宇翔,薛峰,郑翌. 化妆品中准用着色剂的检测方法和使用情况研究[J]. 日用化学工业, 2020, 50(5): 343-348.

GU Yu-xiang,XUE Feng,ZHENG Yi. Research on the detection and application of allowed colorants in cosmetics[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2020, 50(5): 343-348.

图/表 2

表1

中国检测标准中所涉及的准用着色剂"

序号	中文名	INCI名	C.I.号	国家标准	行业/地方标准	化妆品安全技术规范
1	酸性黄1	Acid Yellow 1	10316	√	√	√
2	溶剂红3	Solvent Red 3	12010	√
3	颜料红4	Pigment Red 4	12085	√
4	分散黄16	Disperse Yellow 16	12700	√
5	食品红1（丽春红 SX）	Food Red 1 （Ponceau SX）	14700		√	√
6	酸性橙7	Acid Orange 7	15510	√	√	√
7	酸性红88	Acid Red 88	15620	√
8	颜料红49	Pigment Red 49	15630	√
9	颜料红64	Pigment Red 64	15800	√
10	颜料红57	Pigment Red 57	15850		√
11	食品黄3（日落黄,桔黄）	Food Yellow 3 （Sunset yellow, Orange Yellow）	15985	√	√	√
12	食品红17（咖喱红,诱惑红）	Food Red 17 （Curry Red, Allure Red）	16035	√	√	√
13	食品红9（苋菜红）	Food Red 9 （Amaranth）	16185	√	√	√
14	酸性橙10	Acid Orange 10	16230	√
15	食品红7（酸性红18,胭脂红）	Food Red 7 （Acid Red 18, Carmine）	16255	√	√	√
16	食品红10（酸性红1）	Food Red 10 （Acid Red 1）	18050	√	√
17	酸性黄121	Acid Yellow 121	18690	√
18	酸性黄11	Acid Yellow 11	18820	√
19	食品黄4（酸性黄23,柠檬黄）	Food Yellow 4 （Acid Yellow 23, Tartrazine）	19140		√
20	酸性黑1	Acid Black 1	20470	√
21	溶剂黄29	Solvent Yellow 29	21230	√
22	食品橙8（斑蝥黄）	Food Orange 8 （Canthaxanthin）	40850	√
23	酸性蓝1	Acid Blue 1	42045	√
24	食品蓝5	Food Blue 5	42051	√
25	食品绿3	Food Green 3	42053	√
26	酸性蓝7	Acid Blue 7	42080	√
27	食品蓝2（酸性蓝9,亮蓝）	Food Blue 2 （Acid Blue 9, Erioglaucine disodium salt）	42090	√	√
28	酸性绿9	Acid Green 9	42100	√
29	酸性绿22	Acid Green 22	42170	√
30	碱性紫14	Basic Violet 14	42510			√
31	碱性紫2	Basic Violet 2	42520	√
32	碱性蓝26	Basic Blue 26	44045	√		√
33	酸性红52	Acid Red 52	45100	√
34	酸性紫9	Acid Violet 9	45190	√
35	酸性红50	Acid Red 50	45220	√
36	酸性红87	Acid Red 87	45380			√
37	酸性红98	Acid Red 98	45405	√
38	食品红14（樱桃红）	Food Red 14 （Cherry Red）	45430		√
39	溶剂黄33	Solvent Yellow 33	47000	√
40	酸性紫50	Acid Violet 50	50325	√
41	溶剂绿7	Solvent Green 7	59040		√	√
42	酸性紫43	Acid Violet 43	60730	√		√
43	溶剂绿3	Solvent Green 3	61565	√
44	酸性蓝62	Acid Blue 62	62045	√
45	食品蓝1	Food Blue 1	73015	√	√
46	天然红4	Natural Red 4	75470		√
47	颜料金属2（铜）	Pigment Metal 2 （Copper）	77400			√
48	银	Silver （Ag）	77820			√
49	颜料白6（二氧化钛）	Pigment White 6 （Titanium dioxide）	77891		√	√
50	颜料白4（氧化锌）	Pigment White 4 （Zinc oxide）	77947			√
51	溴甲酚绿	Bromocresol Green		√

表1

表2

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序号	中文名	INCI名	C.I.号	文献[15]	文献[16]	文献[17]	文献[18]
1	颜料黄3	Pigment Yellow 3	11710	√
2	食品橙3（溶剂橙1）	Food Orange 3 （Solvent Orange 1）	11920	√
3	颜料红3（甲苯胺红）	Pigment Red 3 （Toluidine Red）	12120	√
4	食品红3（酸性红14）	Food Red 3 （Acid Red 14）	14720				√
5	颜料红63	Pigment Red 63	15880	√
6	食品绿4	Food Green 4	44090				√
7	酸性黄73	Acid Yellow 73	45350		√
8	酸性红92	Acid Red 92	45410			√	√
9	食品黄13	Food Yellow 13	47005			√	√
10	溶剂紫13	Solvent Violet 13	60725	√
11	溴百里酚蓝	Bromothymol Blue		√