日用化学工业 ›› 2019, Vol. 49 ›› Issue (10): 681-687.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.10.009
刘清霞1,徐梦漪1,2(),温子敏1,朱永闯1,2,龚盛昭1,2(
),张勇3
收稿日期:
2018-12-18
修回日期:
2019-09-18
出版日期:
2019-10-22
发布日期:
2019-10-24
通讯作者:
徐梦漪,龚盛昭
作者简介:
刘清霞(1998-),女,汉族,广东人,在读高职生,E-mail: 1781350868@qq.com。
基金资助:
LIU Qing-xia1,XU Meng-yi1,2(),WEN Zi-min1,ZHU Yong-chuang1,2,GONG Sheng-zhao1,2(
),ZHANG Yong3
Received:
2018-12-18
Revised:
2019-09-18
Online:
2019-10-22
Published:
2019-10-24
Contact:
Meng-yi XU,Sheng-zhao GONG
摘要:
综述了纳米结构脂质载体的结构特点、制备工艺,概括了纳米结构脂质载体(NLC)用于化妆品的作用和添加形式,介绍了NLC在化妆品中作为防晒剂载体、活性物质载体、缓释载体的研究情况,展望了该技术在化妆品领域的发展前景。
中图分类号:
刘清霞,徐梦漪,温子敏,朱永闯,龚盛昭,张勇. 纳米结构脂质载体制备方法及在化妆品中的应用研究进展[J]. 日用化学工业, 2019, 49(10): 681-687.
LIU Qing-xia,XU Meng-yi,WEN Zi-min,ZHU Yong-chuang,GONG Sheng-zhao,ZHANG Yong. Progress in preparation of nanostructured lipid carriersand its application in cosmetics[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2019, 49(10): 681-687.
表 1
NLC技术的研究情况"
方法 | 活性成分 | 功效 | 脂质和乳化剂 | 粒径 | 主要研究结果 | 参考文献 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
热高压均质法 | α-硫辛酸(LA)(辅酶) | 抗氧化 | Apifil、Miglyol?812(辛酸/癸酸三甘油酯)、pluronic?F68(泊洛沙姆) | (103±9)nm | 制备得到可负载水溶性差的α-硫辛酸的胶态载体 | [17] |
热高压均质法 | 辅酶Q10 | 抗氧化 | Miglyol?812、Precifac?ATO、癸酸聚乙二醇甘油酯、Tegocare 450 | (195.9±3.6)nm | 物理稳定性好,可实现双重释放模式,即初期快速释放至皮肤饱和,然后长效缓释以维持Q10在皮肤中的浓度 | [18] |
热高压均质法 | 番茄红素 | 抗氧化 | 橙蜡、米糠油、Eumulgin?SG | 150~160 nm | 包封率高,前6 h快速释放,后18 h匀速释放,抗氧化性能提升 | [19] |
高压均质法 | 白藜芦醇 | 细胞内抗氧活性、抗菌 | 山嵛酸甘油酯、Comprotol?888 ATO Miglyol | (287.2±5.1), (110±1.3)nm | 与SLN相比,NLC粒子具有更小粒径,更高的负载量和更强的抗氧化活性 | [20] |
高压均质法 | 四氢姜黄素和苯乙基间苯二酚复合 | 美白功效和抗衰老 | 辛酸癸酸甘油酯、乙酰化单甘酯和单硬脂酸甘油酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇橄榄油酸酯、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯和PEG-40硬脂酸酯 | (351±2)nm | 负载量高、稳定性好、美白性能优异等优点 | [21] |
高压均质法 | 苯酮-3(BP-3)、对甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯(OMC) | 防晒剂 | 固体脂质(CP、棕榈蜡或蜂蜡)、GTCC | (138.7±0.5)nm | 紫外吸收能力提高,被包覆的防晒剂光异构化程度降低 | [22] |
高压均质法 | 乙基己基三嗪酮、氧化锌 | 复合防晒剂 | ODO、乙酰化单甘酯、Olivem?800和Olivem?1000 | (314±4)nm | 具有良好的稳定性 | [23] |
热高压均质法 | 二苯酮-3和对甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯 | 防晒剂 | 辛酸癸酸甘油三酯、鲸蜡醇棕榈酸酯、单硬脂酸甘油酯(A165)、泊洛沙姆 188、大豆卵磷脂 | 192.4 nm | 复合乳化剂可增加防晒剂的包封率 | [24] |
乳化超声法 | rhEGF | 重组人表皮生长因子 | Precirol?ATO5、Miglyol?182、泊洛沙姆、吐温80 | (330.7±3.59)nm | 提高皮肤愈合效果 | [25] |
乳化超声法 | 苯乙基间苯二酚 | 美白 | 二十二醇、辛酸癸酸三甘油酯、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷、甲基葡糖苷倍半硬脂酸酯、EG-20甲基葡糖苷倍半硬脂酸酯 | (153.9±8.3)nm | 粒径小、包覆率高和稳定性良好,缓释。可增加皮肤滞留量,减少渗透,有利于活性成分作用于皮肤而不会渗入机体对机体造成不良影响 | [11] |
乳化超声法 | 甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯(3%)、丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷(2%) | 防晒剂 | 鲸蜡硬酯基酸-20(5%)、氢化蓖麻油(2%)、辛酸癸酸三甘油酯(6%) | 305 nm | 防晒剂的稳定性提高,并且起到了协同防晒的作用 | [26] |
乳化超声法 | 摩洛哥坚果油 | 保湿,抗衰老 | Precifac?ATO5、Softisan 142、摩洛哥坚果油、吐温80 | (137.70±0.70)nm | 与空白样相比,NLC使皮肤保湿性提高 | [27] |
乳化蒸发-低温固化法 | 槲皮素 | 抗炎 | 单硬脂酸甘油酯、中链甘油三酯(MCT) | 215.2 nm | 增加活性物表皮保留率 | [28] |
乳化超声法 | 维生素E | 保湿、润肤 | Precifac?ATO 5、维生素E、吐温80 | 105 nm | 生物相容性好,无刺激 | [29] |
溶剂扩散法 | 羟苯甲酮 | 防晒剂 | 单硬脂酸甘油酯、Miglyol?812、油酸、聚乙烯醇(PVA)、Carbopol?934P(卡波姆934P) | (327±30)~(797±100)nm | 提高体外防晒因子和UVA防护值超过6倍和8倍,减少副作用 | [30] |
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