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Table of Content

    22 June 2021, Volume 51 Issue 6 Previous Issue    Next Issue
    Lecture of science and technology
    Cosmetic emulsions and new technologies of emulsification (Ⅲ) Stability of multiple emulsions and their application in cosmetics
    YANG Jia-hui,LIANG Rong,YANG Cheng
    2021, 51 (6):  477-484.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.001
    Abstract ( 1076 )   HTML ( 110 )   PDF (1811KB) ( 599 )  

    Multiple emulsion has great advantages in embedding, slow-release and protection of active substances due to its unique structure of “three-phase and two-membrane”, considered to be one of the most promising cosmetic systems. However,Multiple emulsions are thermodynamically unstable due to excessive surface free energy, which limits its application in actual production and life. In this paper, the research progress of multiple emulsions in recent years was reviewed. First, the instability mechanism of multiple emulsions, the stability characterization of multiple emulsions and the methods to improve the stability of multiple emulsions were described in the light of the main challenge of multiple emulsions in cosmetic applications. Then, the application of multiple emulsions in cosmetics in recent years was outlined. Finally, the development of multiple emulsions was summarized and prospected. This article provides a reference for the application and development of multiple emulsions in cosmetics.

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    Efficacy evaluation of cosmetics (XⅢ)Consumer use testing
    LIU Wei-Yi,ZHOU Lin,ZHAO Hua
    2021, 51 (6):  485-490.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.002
    Abstract ( 5054 )   HTML ( 202 )   PDF (965KB) ( 2128 )  

    Cosmetic efficacy claims should have a scientific basis. Efficacy evaluation is one of the very important aspects for cosmetics, including human-body efficacy evaluation, laboratory test and consumer use test. Herein, relevant requirements for consumers to use test methods in “Cosmetics Efficacy Claim Evaluation Standards” have been introduced. Procedures of consumer use testing include asking questions, clarifying the required information, designing information collection methods, organizing and implementing data collection, sorting and analyzing data, reporting and interpreting survey results, etc. The preparation stage of consumer test needs to determine the selection and exclusion criteria of consumers, the number of consumers, complete the product safety evaluation, and determine the test plan. According to the purpose, the test method can be divided into qualitative test and quantitative test. According to the method, it can be divided into interview, questionnaire test and consumer diary. Data analysis methods can be divided into descriptive statistical analysis, regression analysis, and correlation analysis. Among them, methods of descriptive analysis are the most widely used, using general data, tabulation and graphs to make trend analysis, frequency analysis and dispersion degree analysis, etc. Finally, the functions, writing requirements and precautions of the report of consumer use testing, have been described, which can provide reference for the design of consumer use testing in cosmetic efficacy evaluation. In the future, consumer use testing will be closely linked with enterprises. It is an easy, efficient, and cost-effective testing method that is worthy of widespread adoption. In addition, it can also provide companies with more scientific and practical consumer information, and it can help companies develop markets, win consumers, and improve consumption levels, and avoid the blindness of corporate production. However, because there is no precise instrument for qualitative measurement, the data may be affected by consumer subjective factors, resulting in data that are not as objective as data from human-body efficacy evaluation test or laboratory test. To ensure the accuracy of the data to the greatest extent, it is necessary to grasp the selection of subjects, sample size, information collection method, organization and implementation of the experiment, statistical analysis of data, interpretation of results, etc. Thus it can provide scientific support for cosmetic efficacy claims and provide a reliable basis for product development and market positioning.

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    Development and application
    Study on component analysis of different proportions of volatile oil from Schizonepetae Herba-Forsythiae Fructus and its anti-acne pathogenic bacterias
    QIU Si-wa,CHEN Su-wen,KONG Shu-xia,CAI Yan-qu,WU Yan-hong,LI Yuan-xin
    2021, 51 (6):  491-495.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.003
    Abstract ( 360 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (1105KB) ( 295 )  

    In order to explore the compatibility of Schizonepetae Herba-Forsythiae Fructus in the treatment of acne, the components of different quality proportions (1:1, 1:2.5, 2.5:1) of volatile oil were analyzed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometer(GC-MS) and the inhibitory effect on staphylococcus aureus, staphylococcus epidermidis and propionibacterium acnes in vitro were compared. The results show that Schizonepetae Herba volatile oil mainly contained p-Menthone(41.52%) and Menthone(41.62%), and Forsythiae Fructus volatile oil mainly contained β-Pinene(38.93%), Pinene(19.46%) and Sabinene(15.06%). The components of volatile oil from Schizonepetae Herba-Forsythiae Fructus 1:1 had litter change, but 1:2.5 and 2.5:1 had must change. The components of volatile oil from Schizonepetae Herba were easily affected by Forsythiae Fructus. The volatile oil of Schizonepetae Herba-Forsythiae Fructus 1:1 had a better inhibitory effect on propionibacterium acnes and staphylococcus aureus, and had a certain inhibitory effect on staphylococcus epidermidis. The volatile oil in ratios of 1:2.5 and 2.5:1 showed weak inhibitory, which may be related to the content changes after compatibility.

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    Study on the synthesis and performance of sodium N-lauroyl methylalaninate
    LI Ying,XU Hu-jun
    2021, 51 (6):  496-501.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.004
    Abstract ( 500 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (1231KB) ( 567 )  

    Using methylalanine and lauroyl chloride as the main raw materials, an anionic amino acid surfactant, N-lauroyl methylalanine sodium salt (SLMA) , was synthesized under alkaline conditions. The structure of the product was characterized through FT-IR, MS and 1H NMR. The Krafft point, critical micelle concentration (cmc) , surface tension, emulsification, wetting, foaming and detergency of SLMA were determined, as well as the conductivity, micropolarity and critical micelle aggregation number of SLMA at different temperatures. The results show that the Krafft point of SLMA is lower than 0 ℃. The cmc’s of SLMA are 8.23×10-3, 8.27×10-3, 8.29×10-3and 8.34×10-3 mol/L at 25, 35, 45 and 55 ℃, respectively, and the γcmc are 33.00, 32.90, 32.80 and 32.10 mN/m, respectively. The emulsification and wetting properties of SLMA are better than those of sodium N-lauroyl sarcosinate (LS) . The foaming, foam stabilization and detergency values of SLMA are equivalent to those of LS. The critical micelle aggregation number of SLMA are 11, 35, 60 and 79 at 25, 35, 45 and 55 ℃, respectively.

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    Study on the antibacterial effect of a mixed system containing a novel quaternary ammonium salt with organic counterion
    ZHANG Lu,JIANG Ya-jie,LI Jun,WANG Zhi-fei,JU Hong-bin,WANG Ya-kui
    2021, 51 (6):  502-505.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.005
    Abstract ( 359 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (931KB) ( 388 )  

    With the outbreak of a series of epidemics, disinfection and sterilization have gradually become the norm. Because a single product may be limited in disinfection and sterilization capacity and easy to generate drug resistance, the research and development of new compound products are particularly important. Herein, a mixed system based on a novel quaternary ammonium salt with organic counterion, didecyl dimethyl ammonium formate (DDAF) , and an easily biodegradable gemini quaternary ammonium salt, 1,4-bis (lauroyl propyl dimethyl ammonium chloride) butene (GC-B) , and the commonly used quaternary ammonium salts on the market, dodecyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride (1227) and didecyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (2280) , was prepared and tested for their antibacterial properties. The optimal formula ratio was obtained through the design and optimization of uniform experiments. The best proportion of mix-disinfectant is:3% DDAF, 6% GC-B, 0.5% 1227 and 0.5% 2280. The antibacterial performance of this formula was compared with that of two commercially available products. The antibacterial rates of this product against Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli and Candida albicans are all 100%, which is better than the two commercially available products. In terms of cost, the cost of this formula is basically the same as the cost of the commercially available products. The DDAF and GC-B in this formula are green and environmentally friendly quaternary ammonium salts, and the bacteria show no drug resistance. This formula has the potential of further promotion and utilization.

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    Preparation of Pickering emulsion from volcano mud and its pH stability
    FANG Zhen-xing,WANG Xi-ying,WU Jing,ZENG Ying,PAN Hong,XIE Zhen-hua
    2021, 51 (6):  506-512.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.006
    Abstract ( 331 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1731KB) ( 410 )  

    Taking Wudalianchi volcano mud particles as emulsifier, olive oil as oil phase and deionized water as water phase, the preparation process of volcano mud Pickering emulsion was optimized by L9(3 4) orthogonal experiment. The particle size, microstructure and Zeta potential of the emulsion were analyzed, and the pH stability was studied. The results show that stable Pickering emulsion could be prepared by high-pressure (80 MPa)homogenization at 40 ℃ according to the formula in which the mass fractions of olive oil, volcano mud particles and deionized water are 20%, 3% and 77%, respectively. The average particle size of the emulsion is (10.516±0.141) μm. Clear, intact and uniform spherical emulsion particles are observed by Cryo-SEM. The average Zeta potential is -55.01 mV. The emulsion exhibits no creaming in the pH range of 4-12, and demulsification has not been observed in the pH range of 1-14. The volcano mud particles are both hydrophilic and lipophilic. The Pickering emulsion with olive oil as oil phase can be stabilized with volcano mud particles without addition of other chemicals, and the emulsion has excellent pH stability.

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    Applicability study of amplified ATP bioluminescence assay in microbial detection of cosmetics
    LI Ting,SHEN Ying,CAI Jun-song,LIU Yi-ru,CHEN Yi-wen,LIU Ji,YAO Su
    2021, 51 (6):  513-521.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.007
    Abstract ( 333 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (1075KB) ( 470 )  

    34 commercial cosmetics from 17 brands, covering ordinary cosmetics and special cosmetics with different functions, parts of action, formulations and users, were collected to conduct the applicability study of amplified ATP bioluminescence assay in microbial detection of cosmetics. Sample effect test was conducted firstly, and the products whose signal values met the requirements of the method were selected for further treatment. Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus subtilis, Candida albicans and Aspergillus niger were separately inoculated into the selected cosmetics at the target concentration of 10-100 CFU/g, the results of which were used to evaluate the applicability of amplified ATP bioluminescence assay. Results show that the signal values of 31 cosmetics are between 45-526 RLU, which are less than 3-fold signal value of medium blank and meet the requirements of the detection method. The signal values of 3 products are between 610-7 791 RLU, which are higher than 3-fold signal value of the medium blank and do not meet the method requirements. The test results of 27 products contaminated with 6 strains are all positive. 4 products are partially positively detected, and need to be further tested through dilution, neutralization, membrane filtration or other methods. In conclusion, amplified ATP bioluminescence assay is an effective and practical method for the microbial detection of cosmetics, and it can be applied in the rapid screening of the cosmetic products contaminated with microbes.

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    Screening of anti-acne herbs and their application in the treatment of acne
    ZHAO Da-min,WANG Xue-dong,ZHAI Chun-tao
    2021, 51 (6):  522-527.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.008
    Abstract ( 411 )   HTML ( 21 )   PDF (1492KB) ( 697 )  

    The anti-acne efficacy of herbs was evaluated according to their antibacterial effect and their inhibitory effect on 5α-reductase. Scutellaria Baicalensis, Salvia miltiorrhiza and Forsythia were thus screened from the Chinese herbs. An anti-acne gel was prepared in which the alcohol extracts of the three herbs were used as effective ingredients and its clinical effect was investigated. The minimum inhibitory concentrations (MIC) of the compound formula on P. acnes and S. aureus are 3.13 and 3.13 mg/mL, respectively. The inhibition rate against 5α-reductase at 5 mg/mL is 46.5%. This anti-acne gel can effectively reduce the severity of acne. The results indicate that the extracts of these three herbs show good antibacterial effect and enzyme inhibitory effect, and they have good application effect.

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    Identification of the common cosmeceutical homologous plants in mask powder products based on DNA barcoding
    WANG Hong-yue,WANG Ying-chun,JIANG Li,YANG Yan-ge,LIU Ming-chang,WU Ya-jun
    2021, 51 (6):  528-534.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.009
    Abstract ( 257 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (1349KB) ( 392 )  

    Took 22 common cosmeceutical plant ingredients in mask powder products as the research object, and screened out the most suitable genes for species identification from five genes. The results show that combined ITS 2/3 and matK can accurately identify cosmeceutical homologous plants. Furthermore, combined with the clone sequencing process for mixture established by our laboratory, 14 commercial mask powder products (including 11 single samples and 3 mixed products) are used to analyze the applicability. The results show that the adulteration rate is 35.71% in the cosmetics and edible homologous plant in mask powder products. The establishment of DNA barcoding based on ITS 2/3 and matK genes can accurately and reliably identify cosmeceutical homologous plants, which provides technical support for the quality and safety control of mask powder products.

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    Studies on the synergistic anti-inflammatory effects of Ectoin and Madecassoside
    ZHOU Hu-wu,HUO Yong-li,FANG Li,MA Shi-jing,HAN Ping,LIN Li,DU Zhi-yun
    2021, 51 (6):  535-538.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.010
    Abstract ( 643 )   HTML ( 29 )   PDF (1183KB) ( 671 )  

    The inflammation model of RAW264.7 cells induced by LPS was used to detect that Ectoin, Madecassoside and their combination under different experimental set mass concentrations and ratios had good inhibitory effect on the production of NO in LPS-induced RAW264.7 cells, that is, it had anti-inflammatory activity at the cellular level. Meanwhile, under different experimental set mass concentrations and ratios, most of the combination of Ectoin and Madecassoside show higher inhibition rate of NO than that of a single component. In addition, the SI values under different experimental set mass concentrations and ratios are lower than 1. The above results demonstrate that the combination of Ectoin and Madecassoside has a synergistic interaction in anti-inflammatory, however, the mechanism needs further study.

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    GC-MS analysis and antibacterial/antifungal abilities of the essential oil of Guangxi Zingiber corallinum Hance
    CHENG Hong-liu,WANG Wen-cui,YAO Lei,LI Yu-hong
    2021, 51 (6):  539-545.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.011
    Abstract ( 352 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1383KB) ( 375 )  

    The essential oil of Guangxi Zingiber corallinum Hance was used as the experimental material to measure the components thereof. Its antibacterial/antifungal abilities against 8 kinds of bacteria and fungi were also studied, such as Bacillus megaterium and Chaetomium globosum. The components of Zingiber corallinum Hance essential oil was determined by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). Its inhibition zone was determined by disk diffusion method, and its minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) and minimum bactericidal concentration (MBC) or minimum fungicidal concentration (MFC) were determined by tube dilution method. The results show that there are 36 kinds of components detected in the Zingiber corallinum Hance essential oil from this region, and its main components include sabinene (27.87%), terpinen-4-ol (22.57%) , triquinacene 1,4-bis(methoxy)-(10.67%) and so on. Other trace components include terpinolene, α-terpineol, etc. Zingiber corallinum Hance essential oil has different antibacterial/antifungal abilities against the eight kinds of bacteria and fungi in the experiment. Compared with the positive drug, Zingiber corallinum Hance essential oil has worse inhibitory effects against bacteria but has better inhibitory effects against fungi. The inhibitory effects against Escherichia coli, Chaetomium globosum and Trichophyton rubrum are stronger, with MIC of 1 µL/mL; the inhibitory effect against Aspergillus flavus is relatively weak, with MIC of 15 µL/mL. The MIC against Bacillus megaterium, Staphylococcus aureus, Proteus vulgaris and Candida albicans is 3 µL/mL. Guangxi Zingiber corallinum Hance essential oil has certain antibacterial performance and broad spectrum to experimental bacteria, and has a good development prospect.

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    Reviews
    Research progress of magnetic surfactants
    WANG Jun,ZHANG Chen-long,YANG Xu-zhao,BAI Ya-rong
    2021, 51 (6):  546-553.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.012
    Abstract ( 620 )   HTML ( 30 )   PDF (1089KB) ( 1209 )  

    Magnetic surfactants are a kind of surfactants with both surface activity and magnetic response. The properties of the surfactants can be simply controlled by the “on” and “off” of external magnetic fields. The structure, synthesis, properties and application of magnetic surfactants are reviewed. The counterions with magnetic response and surface active ions can be combined by electrostatic attraction or complexation. Magnetic surfactants have better surface properties than nonmagnetic parent surfactants, such as lower surface tension and smaller cmc. The surface tension of aqueous solutions of magnetic surfactants can be further reduced by external magnetic field. The magnetic moment of a magnetic surfactant is mainly determined by metal ions, and the magnetic moment of alkyl trimethyl ammonium magnetic surfactant is greater than that of alkyl imidazole magnetic surfactant. Magnetic surfactants exhibit unique properties in drug delivery, microemulsion, nanomaterials and sterilization, which indicates that this kind of surfactants have good development prospect.

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    Progress on stimulus-responsive Pickering emulsions and their applications
    GONG Cheng-yi,YU Hao,WANG Qi-qi,SUN Ji-yong,SONG Ai-xin
    2021, 51 (6):  554-563.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.013
    Abstract ( 534 )   HTML ( 33 )   PDF (1454KB) ( 746 )  

    Pickering emulsions have many advantages and are particularly well-known for their excellent stability imparted by kinetic factors. However, it is often necessary to temporarily stabilize the system, and then to quickly break the emulsion or change the emulsion type to reach the needs in many application processes. Therefore, the stimuli-responsive Pickering emulsions have received extensive attention. Started with one of the important factors affecting the properties of emulsions, this paper summarized the wettability of particles, as well as the common strategies for bringing responsive behavior to Pickering emulsions. Pickering emulsions that responded to stimuli such as pH, temperature, CO2, light, external force field, oxidation-reduction, ionic strength, and multiple stimuli, were reviewed. The applications of the stimulus-responsive behavior of Pickering emulsions in catalytic reaction, controlled release of substances, high internal phase emulsion preparation, material preparation were briefly introduced. The development directions of stimulus-responsive Pickering emulsions in the future were also prospected.

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    Analytical methods and testing
    Determination of bromisoval, carbromal and carisoprodol in cosmetics using HPLC and their verification by HPLC-MS/MS
    SHANG Yu-han,GUO Xiang-yu,ZONG Yi-jing,LI Tao,LI Wen-tao,MA Qiang
    2021, 51 (6):  564-568.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.014
    Abstract ( 299 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1189KB) ( 419 )  

    An analytical method for the determination of bromisoval, carbromal and carisoprodol in cosmetics was developed based on high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). This method was capable of simultaneously quantifying the three analytes in a single run by combining a diode array detector (DAD) and an evaporative light scattering detector (ELSD) in series. The limits of quantitation (LOQs) for bromisoval and carbromal were 5 mg/kg, and the average recoveries ranged from 90.7% to 100.5% with the relative standard deviations (RSDs) less than 5.8%. The LOQ for carisoprodol was 20 mg/kg, and the average recoveries ranged from 96.8% to 103.9% with the RSDs less than 5.9%. The suspicious samples were subjected to further verification with high-performance liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS/MS). This method is simple, fast and suitable for the routine analysis of bromisoval, carbromal and carisoprodol in cosmetics.

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    Determination of 22 sunscreens by high performance liquid chromatography in cosmetics
    HAN Wei,LIU Jie,LI Li-xia,LV Xiao-jun
    2021, 51 (6):  569-576.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.015
    Abstract ( 673 )   HTML ( 30 )   PDF (1654KB) ( 342 )  

    A high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method was established for the determination of 22 sunscreens in cosmetics. The samples were extracted, ultrasonicated and then filtered. The target compounds were separated by OSAKA SODA CAPCELL PAK C18 MGⅡcolumn, and analyzed by HPLC with PDA detector. Under the optimized experimental conditions, there is a good linear relationship between peaks areas and sunscreens concentrations with the r values are higher than 0.999. The detection limits are in the range of 0.01%-0.11%, and the limits of quantification are in the range of 0.03%-0.34%. The average recoveries are in the range of 89.7%-109.8% with the relative standard deviations are less than 5%. This accurate and sensitive method is suitable for the qualitative and quantitative analysis of 22 sunscreens in cosmetics.

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    Determination of ginseng functional components in ginseng cosmetics by UPLC/MS-MS
    ZHANG Wei-qing,HOU Li-nan,LI Bin,LIU Hui-jin,WANG Hai-yan
    2021, 51 (6):  577-582.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.016
    Abstract ( 599 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (1204KB) ( 817 )  

    A method was established for the determination of ginseng functional components (ginsenoside Rg1, ginsenoside Re) in ginseng cosmetics with ultra-high performance liquid chromatography triple quadrupole mass spectrometry (UPLC/MS-MS). This method was used to monitor the risk of 28 batches of samples sold on the market. The samples were extracted by methanol ultrasonic method. The mobile phase was 0.05% formic acid aqueous solution - 0.05% formic acid acetonitrile solution, and the gradient elution was carried out. The samples were separated on the ACQUITY UPLC BEH C18 (2.1 mm×100 mm×1.7 μm) column and detected by UPLC/MS-MS negative ion mode. At the same time, the pretreatment conditions and UPLC/MS-MS conditions were optimized and the method was verified. The results show that the method shows good linearity in the concentration range of 0.1-50 ng/mL and 0.5-200 ng/mL, with R2 no less than 0.999 6. The limits of detection are in the range of 0.001 7-0.003 0 μg/g (S/N=3) . The average recoveries in sample matrix of cream, lotion and shampoo are from 81.87% to 94.45%, with relative standard deviations (RSDs) less than 5.64 (n=6) . This method is suitable for the determination of ginseng functional components in ginseng cosmetics.

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