Table of Content

22 July 2021, Volume 51 Issue 7 Previous Issue    Next Issue

Basic research

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Molecular simulation study on the micellization behavior of betaine-type zwitterionic surfactants Li Yongbin,Wang Wendong,Chen Jian,Shen Jiaxun,Liu Yi,Sun Shuangqing 2021, 51 (7):  583-589.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.001 Abstract ( 317 )   HTML ( 62 )   PDF (1694KB) ( 447 )   Betaine-type zwitterionic surfactants were used as the research objects. The technique of coarse-grained molecular dynamics was used to construct alkyl betaine models of different structures, and the effects of linking group and hydrophobic tail on the aggregation in the solution system were investigated. The bending angle distribution, relative shape anisotropy and radial distribution function of aggregates （micelles） were analyzed. The shape transformation mechanism of spherical, rod-shaped and branched micelles was explored. The research results show that, with the increase of concentration, under the action of the linking group, the zwitterionic surfactant molecules bend and the small micelles are cross-linked and fused to form a rod-branched micelle transition; the increase of the chain length of hydrophobic tail will cause the changes in micelle volume thus to reduce the intermolecular interaction, and the small micelles are easy to fuse to form a sphere-to-rod transition. This article provides an innovative thinking angle for theoretical exploration for similar systems, and it has certain guiding significance for the research and application of zwitterionic surfactants. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Lecture of science and technology

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Botanical cosmetic ingredient (IV) Research and development of skin whitening ingredients from plant extracts with melanogenesis signaling pathway inhibiting effect Ren Qianqian,Wu Hua,Jin Jianming 2021, 51 (7):  590-597.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.002 Abstract ( 669 )   HTML ( 27 )   PDF (1150KB) ( 792 )   Human skin and hair color relies on the quantity, quality, and distribution of melanin. Melanin plays a monumental role in protecting the skin against the harmful effects of various environments. However, an excessive production of melanin causes serious dermatological problems. Hence, it is of great significance to study the regulation of melanogenesis signaling pathway and to explore the related plant extracts that inhibit melanin synthesis through these signaling pathways. This paper reviews the signaling pathways and regulatory factors that control melanin biosynthetic pathway, including α-MSH-induced signaling pathway, PI3K/Akt signaling pathway, SCF/c-kit-mediated MAPK signaling pathway, Wnt/β-catenin signaling pathway, NO-cGMP signaling pathway, and cytokines, transcription factor PAX3 and liver X-receptors. This paper focuses on plant extracts that inhibit melanin synthesis by regulating various signaling pathways. Although these plant extracts regulate different signaling pathways, most of them down-regulate the expression of MITF, a transcription factor that integrates upstream signaling pathways and regulates downstream genes, thereby reducing the expression of tyrosinase （TYR） and inhibiting the biosynthesis of melanin in cells. We hope this paper can provide information for better application of plant extracts in whitening cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Development and application

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Synthesis and properties of an amide cationic Gemini surfactant with ester groups Lu Xiaohao,Xu Hujun,Lin Liangliang,Chang Kuan,Gao Haiyan 2021, 51 (7):  598-605.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.003 Abstract ( 274 )   HTML ( 21 )   PDF (1706KB) ( 242 )   An amide cationic Gemini surfactant with ester groups （C12- （BAE） -C12） was synthesized in three steps with bromoacetic acid, ethylene glycol, lauric acid and N, N-dimethyl-1, 3-diaminopropane as raw materials. The structure of the product was characterized by FT-IR, 1H NMR and mass spectrometry （MS）. The critical micelle concentration （cmc） of C12- （BAE） -C12 was determined by measurement of surface tension, conductivity and fluorescence. The thermodynamic parameters of C12- （BAE） -C12 were obtained from the results of conductivity at 25, 35 and 45 ℃. The emulsification and antistatic properties of C12- （BAE） -C12 were also measured. The results show that the cmc values of C12- （BAE） -C12 at 25 ℃ are 0.331 1, 0.532 8 and 0.316 2 mmol/L, respectively, as obtained by different methods. According to the results of conductivity, the thermodynamic parameters of micellization were calculated with the thermodynamic formulas. It is determined that the micellization process of C12- （BAE） -C12 is entropy-driven, and the increase of temperature will hinder the micellization of the surfactant. Furthermore, the results of application performance show that C12- （BAE） -C12 has better emulsification and antistatic effects than traditional single-chain cationic surfactant dodecyltrimethylammonium bromide （DTAB）. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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The performance test of modified oil ethoxylate sulfonate and its application in the automatic dishwashing detergent Li Jiyun,Tai Xiumei,Sun Yongqiang,Guo Lingxiao,Bai Yanyun,Guan Jinsong 2021, 51 (7):  606-611.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.004 Abstract ( 427 )   HTML ( 24 )   PDF (1129KB) ( 405 )   The modified oil ethoxylate sulfonate （SNS-80） is a new green and environmentally friendly anionic surfactant. It is safe and non-irritating, and can be widely used in various detergent products. The viscosity, foaming power and foam stability, wetting, emulsification and calcium soap dispersing ability of SNS-80 were measured with rotational viscometer, Ross-Miles foam analyzer,canvas sedimentation method, shaking method and improved acid titration, respectively. The apparent salt resistance and alkali resistance of SNS-80 were tested at （25±2） and （95±2） ℃. The automatic dishwashing detergent containing SNS-80 was prepared. Its stability and detergency were investigated and compared with the commercial products sold in the market. The results showed that the aqueous solution of SNS-80 has low viscosity and no gel phase region in the whole concentration range, and it has high initial foam and fast defoaming, and has excellent calcium soap dispersing power （1 g SNS-80 can disperse 18.7 g calcium soap）. The apparent salt tolerance is better at low temperature than that at high temperature, and the tolerance to monovalent salt is higher than that of divalent salt. The apparent alkali resistance can reach 168 g/L at （95±2） ℃. Compared with the commercial automatic dishwashing detergent, the samples containing SNS-80 as the main component have better detergency. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Optimization of hydrolysis preparation of tussah fibroin peptides by response surface methodology and the performance thereof Mi Rui,Li Xuejun,Ma Shuhui,Meng Nan,Li Shuying,Du Xingfan 2021, 51 (7):  612-619.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.005 Abstract ( 224 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (6846KB) ( 95 )   Tussah fibroin peptides were prepared from tussah silk fibroin by hydrolysis method with phosphoric acid. On the basis of single-factor test, the preparation process was optimized using the response surface methodology. The effects of various factors on the recovery of tussah fibroin peptides were investigated, and the performance of samples obtained under the optimized conditions was analyzed. The results show that the optimal hydrolysis conditions are as follows: the mass fraction of liquid material is 9.93%; the hydrolysis temperature is 91.11 ℃; the hydrolysis time is 5.44 h; the theoretical recovery rate is 70.34%. The actual recovery rate can reach 69% which is consistent with the theoretical level. The optimized hydrolysis technology for preparation of tussah fibroin peptides was established using response surface methodology. The performance experiments of tussah fibroin peptides show that the sample has good hygroscopic and moisturizing efficacy, and functions of sunscreen and bacteriostasis. Tussah silk peptides have high application value in the development of natural skin care products. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the mosquito-repelling and antipruritic effects of 1, 8-cineole Chen Fan,Yao Lei,Wang Wencui 2021, 51 (7):  620-625.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.006 Abstract ( 501 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF (1083KB) ( 281 )   To explore the mosquito repellent effect and the therapeutic properties of allergic skin itching of 1, 8-cineole, the repellent activity of 1, 8-cineole against Aedes albopictus under different doses was studied by the Y-tube olfactory test. The antipruritic effect of 1, 8-cineole （φ=5%, prepared with olive oil） was studied in an animal model of mice skin scratching response induced by 4-aminopyridine（4-AP）. The results show that 1, 8-cineole at the dose of 4.0 μL repels 100% of A. albopictus in the initial 4 minutes and the repellent effect of 1, 8-cineole against A. albopictus increases in a dose-dependent manner. In addition, mice experiments show that the scratching frequency of mice treated with 1, 8-cineole reduces significantly within 10 minutes; and the contents of serum interleukin 31 （IL-31）, platelet activating factor （PAF）, serotonin （5-HT） and histamine in the skin filtrate of mice treated with 1, 8-cineole are significantly reduced compared with the model group. The pathological sections show that no edema in the skin of mice in the 1, 8-cineole group is observed and the infiltration of inflammatory cells is inhibited. In conclusion, when the concentration of 1, 8-cineole reaches a certain value, it shows obvious repellent effect on A. albopictus. 1, 8-cineole also has a significant antipruritic effect through the mechanism of antagonizing the release of IL-31, PAF, 5-HT, as well as the mediator of itching, histamine. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Promotion effects of Dragon’s Blood Complex on mitochondrial network and bioenergetics in normal human skin cells Jiang Dandan,Wang Fenglou,Li Hui,Zhang Zhang 2021, 51 (7):  626-631.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.007 Abstract ( 305 )   HTML ( 23 )   PDF (1324KB) ( 289 )   In this study, normal human skin cells extracted from an aged donor were used to establish the in vitro senescent skin cell model. The bioenergetics effect was evaluated by measuring cellular ATP content using CellTiter-Glo® Reagent. Microscopic inspection and the semi-quantitative analysis methods of mitochondrial networks have been used to evaluate the mitochondria assembled into flexible networks in metabolically active cells. In the meantime, immuno-cytochemistry staining was used to futher understand the mechanism of mitochondria network formation, and the expression of Mitofusin-1 was investigated. With this model, the efficacy of Dragon’s Blood Complex （DBC）, a botanical complex composed of four active ingredients, was evaluated with normal human dermal fibroblasts and epidermal keratinocytes about its biofunctions on ATP production and mitochondrial integrity including morphology of mitochondria, aboundance of mitochondrial networks, and the expression of Mitofusin-1. The results show that the ATP level in senescent fibroblasts and keratinocytes is significantly increased by Dragon’s Blood Complex. The relative ATP content of fibroblasts is 117.7%±4.3% compared with the control group （P<0.01） when treated with 0.25% DBC. When treated with 0.5%, 0.25%, and 0.1% DBC, the relative ATP content of keratinocytes, compared with the control group, are 149.8%±9.0%, 147.5%±6.4%, and 134.0%±8.3%, respectively （P<0.001）. By incubation with 0.25% DBC, the count of mitochondrial network in senescent keratinocytes is significantly promoted （P<0.05）. And in the DBC-treated fibroblasts, the mitochondria networks are less fragmented and more extensively branched in morphology. Besides, Mitofusin-1 is more widely and abundantly expressed in the DBC-treated fibroblasts. This might partly explain the promotion effect of DBC on mitochondria networks. In summary, DBC shows anti-aging effects on fibroblasts and keratinocytes by promoting the cellular ATP and mitochondria. The evaluation method used in this study can also be applied to the screening of more active ingredients targeting the functions relevant with mitochondrial aging and bioenergetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Metabolomics study of anti-aging effect of Camelliaoil on the skin of D-galactose-induced aging mice Wu Yani,Tang Yin,Wang Shuchang,Wang Ying,Lv Xiaofan 2021, 51 (7):  632-638.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.008 Abstract ( 357 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF (1342KB) ( 344 )   The aim of the study was to explore the anti-aging effect and physiological mechanism of Camellia seed oil and Camellia emollient oil on the skin of D-galactose-induced aging mice. The skin tissues of mice in normal group, model group, Camellia seed oil group, Camellia emollient oil group and vitamin E group （positive control） were analyzed by gas chromatography time-of-flight mass spectrometry （GC-TOF/MS）. After obtaining the data, the multidimensional statistical method was used to analyze the data and to mine the biological information. The data were analyzed by the mathematical model of principal component analysis （PCA） and orthogonal projections to latent structures discriminant analysis （OPLS-DA）, and the differential metabolites were determined by the indices of variable importance in the projection （VIP） andp value. The differential metabolites which were filtered out were substituted into the MetaboAnalyst platform, and the important metabolic pathways involved were screened by indices of pathway impact and p value. The analysis of differential metabolites shows that the differential metabolites between normal group and model group are propionic acid, linoleic acid, aminomalonic acid, aspartic acid, tyrosine, succinic acid, stearic acid, alanine and proline; the differential metabolite between model group andCamellia seed oil group is palmitic acid; the differential metabolites between model group and Camelliaemollient oil group are propionic acid, succinic acid, aminomalonic acid, stearic acid, fumaric acid, proline, linoleic acid and alanine; the differential metabolites between model group and vitamin E group are propionic acid, succinic acid, aminomalonic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, aspartic acid, proline and phosphoric acid. Camellia seed oil and Camellia emollient oil can regulate the metabolism disorder of the skin of D-galactose-induced aging mice. From the perspective of the number of differential metabolites, Camellia emollient oil is better than Camelliaseed oil, close to vitamin E in the anti-aging effect of skin. Metabolic pathway analysis indicates three major metabolic pathways: alanine, aspartic acid, and glutamic acid metabolism, phenylalanine, tyrosine, and tryptophan metabolism, and linoleic acid metabolism. Through further analysis, it is speculated that the effect of Camellia emollient oil andCamellia seed oil may be related to the regulation of oxidative stress. This research result may provide a reference for further study revealing the anti-aging mechanism of Camellia oil. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Rapid classification of skin corrosion of detergents and disinfectants: a combined method of dye penetration and damage grading Pan Xuen,He Zhirong,Lu Zhangshun,Yang Guang,Zhong An,Huang Zhipeng 2021, 51 (7):  639-647.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.009 Abstract ( 177 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (1884KB) ( 202 )   A combined method of in-vitro skin damage grading and dye penetration was established for rapid classification of skin corrosion of detergents and disinfectants. By constructing and investigating the surface of exposure time-observation time-skin reaction grade, the criteria base on the damage grading were determined. The dye extraction effect of the tested skin under different extraction conditions was compared, and the key condition of the dye penetration experiment was optimized. The utilizing of ultrasonic extraction shortens the experiment time and improves the efficiency of the experiment. The method is verified with 16 reference substances, and the results are well consistent （ Kappa=0.826, P=0.000）. The sensitivity, specificity and accuracy of the corrosive judgment are 100%, 85.7% and 93.8%, respectively, and the accuracy of the corrosive classification is 87.5%. The method is convenient, rapid, efficient and low-cost, and conforms to 3Rs principle of animal research ethics. Thus, it is suitable for rapid classification of a large number of samples to enhance the safety management of chemicals and prevent the chemical accidents. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the differences in the composition and the whitening and anti-allergy activities of different kinds of licorice Zhang Xingqi,He Jingyu,Gong Shengzhao,Liu Linfeng 2021, 51 (7):  648-654.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.010 Abstract ( 451 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF (1304KB) ( 469 )   Three different plants of licorice, G. inflata, G. glabra and G. uralensis, were used as the research objects to compare the differences in the composition and activities. The content of liquiritin, glycyrrhizic acid and glabridin was determined by HPLC-DAD; the difference in total flavonoid content was compared by UV spectrophotometry, and the inhibition of tyrosinase and hyaluronidase activities was compared. The target compounds were extracted with 70% ethanol, and separated on an Agilent Poroshell 120 EC-C18 （150 mm×4.6 mm, 2.7 µm） in gradient elution program using methanol and 0.05% phosphoric acid as mobile phase, at a flow rate of 1 mL/min at 30 ℃, and using a detection wavelength of 270 nm. The validated HPLC method shows good linear relationship with correlation coefficients larger than 0.998 85. The relative standard deviation （RSD） values of precision, stability and repeatability are less than 0.89%. The average recoveries are in the range of 97.50%-99.60% with the RSD values less than 2.09%. The analysis results show that the content of glycyrrhizic acid and glabridin are the highest inG. glabra, and the content of liquiritin is the highest in G. uralensis; the total flavonoid content of licorice ranks in a sequence that G. glabra > G. uralensis > G. inflata; The sequence of inhibition rate of tyrosinase isG. glabra > G. uralensis > G. inflate, and their IC50 values are 7.36, 8.38 and 11.13 mg/L, respectively; the sequence of inhibition rate of hyaluronidase is G. inflata > G. uralensis > G. glabra, and their IC50 values are 8.70, 9.19 and 10.45 mg/mL, respectively. The three kinds of licorice may have good whitening and anti-allergy effects because of their good inhibition of tyrosinase and hyaluronidase. To achieve the best effect, they need to be used separately. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Investigation on the anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity of cannabidiol Liu Juan,Yu Siyi,Zhai Wenli,Li Guoqing,Li Xuetao,Liu Jitao 2021, 51 (7):  655-661.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.011 Abstract ( 487 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (1461KB) ( 357 )   CCK-8 assay was performed to evaluate the effect of cannabinol （CBD） on the relative cell activity of HaCat cells and RAW264.7 cells. The inhibitory effect of CBD on the secretion of inflammatory cytokines in HaCat cells and RAW264.7 cells induced by LPS was investigated. The inhibitory effect of CBD on anaerobe Propionibacterium acnes（P.acnes） was tested by the means of inhibition ring and inhibition rate. The results show that when the concentration is lower than 20 μmol/L, CBD presents no cytotoxicity to normal/inflammatory HaCat cells and normal/inflammatory RAW264.7 cells, nor does it promote the proliferation and differentiation of the cells. CBD shows a good inhibitory effect on TNF-α in inflammatory RAW264.7 cell model, and its effect is equivalent to the positive control dexamethasone （DEX） at the concentration of 10 μmol/L. CBD shows significant inhibitory effect on IL-6 in both inflammatory cell models. At the concentration of 20 μmol/L, it presents significant inhibitory effect on IL-1β in both cell models; and presents significant inhibitory effect on IFN-γ in both cell models at the concentrations of 10 and 20 μmol/L, all indicating its good anti-inflammatory activity. The CBD emulsion was applied toP.acnes, and the results show that when the concentration of CBD is above 20 μmol/L, it shows significant inhibitory effect on P.acnes. In addition, the results of bacteriostatic rate test show that when the concentration of CBD is 80 μmol/L, its antibacterial rate against P.acnes is as high as 99%, indicating that it has a good antibacterial effect. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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The EEG study of facial mask act on consumers’ mental relaxation Zhou Zheng,Wu Mengjie,Wang Yi,Lin Wenqiang,Guo Miao,Yang Fan 2021, 51 (7):  662-669.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.012 Abstract ( 399 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (1691KB) ( 504 )   Electroencephalography （EEG） is a macro-electrophysiological phenomenon manifested by the collective charging and discharging of brain nerve cell clusters in the cerebral cortex, and it is the most intuitional manifestation of human brain activity. The EEG test was used to understand the variation in brain activity during the application of the facial mask, thus to study the psychological impact of the facial mask applied on consumers. During the EEG data acquisition process, 1 min of EEG data for the subjects were recorded as baseline before being applied with a facial mask, and 0-7 min of EEG data were also recorded as test data after putting on the facial mask. The results indicate that applying facial mask can stimulate the low-frequencyθ rhythm （4-8 Hz） and slightly reduce the high-frequency β rhythm （14-30 Hz）. The subjects’ relaxation indexes are improved with different facial masks, which is consistent with the subjective evaluation results and heart rate measurement results of the subjects. It can be ascribed to the facial mask contributing to mental relaxation of consumers. This study shows the mental relaxation state of consumers during the facial mask application as revealed by EEG analysis, which has illustrated the psychological impact of cosmetics on consumers from the perspective of neuroscience. It is of important significance to reveal the psychological correlation of consumers with cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Reviews

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Advances in the application of attapulgite in Pickering emulsion preparation Yu Hui,Zhu Yongfeng,Hui Aiping,Yang Fangfang,Wang Aiqin 2021, 51 (7):  670-678.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.013 Abstract ( 349 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (1278KB) ( 335 )   Attapulgite, a clay mineral which possesses the unique one-dimensional nanorod morphology, nanopore structure, natural electronegativity as well as the good water dispersibility, and has attracted extensive attention in the preparation and application of Pickering emulsion. In a few cases, natural attapulgite can directly stabilize the emulsion with a higher aspect ratio or by introducing olive oil containing a large amount of unsaturated fatty acids. In other cases, the hydrophilic natural attapulgite must be modified with the purpose of adjusting its surface wettability in the preparation of stable Pickering emulsion. According to the action mode of modifier and attapulgite, the modification can be divided into non-covalent bond and covalent bond. Non-covalent bond modification was that the modifier acts on the surface of attapulgite through hydrogen bonding, van der Waals force and electrostatic interaction. According to the molecular size of the modifier, non-covalent bond modification can be divided into organic small molecule and organic polymer. Covalent bond modification was the formation of a covalent bond between the silanol group on the surface of the attapulgite and the modifier through chemical reaction. The emulsion stabilized by attapulgite has a wide range of applications, and can be used to fabricate microcapsules or microspheres with sustained drug release, as a template to fabricate porous materials with adsorption, or catalysis, etc. The structural characteristics and physicochemical properties of attapulgite have been introduced, and then the application research progress of attapulgite in the preparation of Pickering emulsion has been summarized. This review provided the useful information for the mechanism analysis and application extension of attapulgite and other clay mineral stabilized Pickering emulsions. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Investigation on the use of preservatives in skin care products and exploration on the future development trend Cheng Wenjing,Zhang Jiachan,Yang Yilin,Shi Xiuqin,Wang Changtao,An Quan 2021, 51 (7):  679-685.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.014 Abstract ( 384 )   HTML ( 26 )   PDF (1171KB) ( 491 )   The use of preservatives in skin care products can ensure the stability and safety of skin care products to a certain extent and increase the effective use period of skin care products. The preservatives used in 1 205 commercially available skin care products were investigated in this study. The types of preservatives used in skin care products of different textures were summarized. The current status of use of preservatives in skin care products for different population or from different origins was analyzed. According to the survey results, phenoxyethanol, methyl hydroxybenzoate and propyl hydroxybenzoate are considered the top three preservatives used in skin care products for different men and women; Phenoxyethanol and methyl hydroxybenzoate rank the first and the second among the preservatives added to skin care products in different regions. Moreover, phenoxyethanol as a skin care preservative accounts for more than 60% of the skin care preservatives in various countries or alliances. It can be seen that, phenoxyethanol has been widely used in skin care products across the world. With the development of the skin care industry, the requirements for preservatives have become more stringent. The development status of preservatives was further summarized and the future development trend was predicted in this article, based on the survey and statistics on the preservatives in commercially available skin care products. This study has significance of practical application and economic value. While skin care products bring users good skin care experience, they have become a breeding ground for microorganisms to grow because more nutrients have been added into the list of ingredients, especially when meeting with suitable conditions such as temperature, pH and moisture. Preservatives have been used to solve this problem. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Analytical methods and testing

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Simultaneous determination of 4 banned substances in anti-acne cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography Zhang Liyuan,Wu Yuanyang,Liu Chenchen,Qi Lvye 2021, 51 (7):  686-690.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.015 Abstract ( 309 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1183KB) ( 253 )   A method for simultaneous determination of 4 banned substances in anti-acne cosmetics, including lincomycin, clindamycin, tretinoin and isotretinoin was developed by high performance liquid chromatography （HPLC）. The above four substances were extracted ultrasonically with methanol. The analytes were separated on a Waters SunFire C18（4.6×250 mm,5 µm）column by gradient elution with 0.02 moL/L diammonium hydrogen phosphate- methanol as mobile phase,and detected at the wavelengths of 210 and 340 nm, respectively. The flow rate was set at 1.0 mL/min and the column temperature was 30 ℃. Quantification analysis was performed by the external standard method. The calibration curves are linear in the range of 5-500 mg/L for lincomycin and clindamycin, and 0.5-50 mg/L for the rest analytes, with the correlation coefficients more than 0.999. The detection limits of lincomycin and clindamycin are 0.005%, while that of tretinoin and isotretinoin are 0.000 2%. The average recoveries at three spiked levels range from 95% to 102% with RSDs of 0.1%-1.5%. The results indicate that the method is simple, sensitive and accurate, and is suitable for the determination of 4 banned substances in anti-acne cosmetics． Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Determination of methylcyclosiloxane in rinse-off cosmetics by gas chromatography Wen Xiaojing,Tang Huang,Zhao Yuanyu,Chen Jiang,Hu Dongping,Wang Guomin 2021, 51 (7):  691-696.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.016 Abstract ( 559 )   HTML ( 29 )   PDF (1169KB) ( 405 )   A method of GC-FID was used for the analysis of D4, D5, D6 and their analogs D3, D7, D8 in cosmetics. The samples were extracted, filtered and analyzed by gas chromatography, and quantified by external standard method. The results show that there is a good linearity between the peak area and the concentration of six cyclic siloxane in the range of 5-200 mg/L with the r values higher than 0.998. The detection limits for six cyclic siloxane are 0.002%, and the limits of quantification are 0.005%. The average recoveries of six cyclic siloxane in shampoo,conditioner,shaving cream, bath gel and cleanser are 77.1%-104.2%, 72.1%-106.9%, 71.5%-112.6%, 73.3%-118.7%, and 74.8%-104.6%, respectively. The method is simple, efficient, sensitive and reliable, and is suitable for the general detection of six cyclic siloxane in various kinds of rinse-off cosmetics. It can provide technical support for the protection of the global environment and human health. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics