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Table of Content

    22 May 2021, Volume 51 Issue 5 Previous Issue    Next Issue
    Basic research
    Study on the synthesis of a sulfonate surfactant and its corrosion inhibition performance for carbon steel
    ZHU Hai-lin,LI Xiao-fen,LU Xiao-meng,HUANG Hao-yu,WANG Zi-xiang,HU Zhi-yong
    2021, 51 (5):  375-382.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.05.001
    Abstract ( 293 )   HTML ( 114 )   PDF (1954KB) ( 351 )  

    A sulfonate surfactant (COMT) was synthesized from cyanuric chloride, n-octylamine, 2-mercaptobenzothiazole (MBT) and aminoethyl sulfonic acid. Its structure was characterized by ESI-MS,1H NMR and FT-IR. The surface-active properties of COMT in 3.5% NaCl solution were investigated by surface tension method and its corrosion inhibition performance for 45# carbon steel in 3.5% NaCl solution was analyzed by electrochemical test and surface morphology analysis. It was found that, compared with MBT, COMT revealed higher inhibition efficiency in 3.5% NaCl solution. The corrosion inhibition efficiency could achieve 84.65% with 4 mmol/L COMT but merely 40.63% for MBT under the same condition. The results of quantum chemical calculation and molecular dynamics simulation showed that, the incorporation of hydrophobic chain, hydrophilic group and triazine ring in the structure of COMT enhanced its adsorption ability on carbon steel surface, which was in good agreement with the experimental results.

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    Lecture of science and technology
    Botanical cosmetic ingredient (III) Research and development of natural moisturizers in cosmetics
    ZHANG Yu-tong,SONG Yang,WU Hua,JIN Jian-ming
    2021, 51 (5):  383-389.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.05.002
    Abstract ( 1063 )   HTML ( 77 )   PDF (1074KB) ( 940 )  

    Moisturizing is essential for skin care and important to reduce the chances of skin problems. The stratum corneum and dermis, the natural skin moisture barrier, play an important role in hydration and water storage. In addition, moisturizer is used for moisturizing and protecting the skin. Many plant extracts have obvious hydrating and moisturizing effects on skin. This paper briefly introduced the skin moisturizing mechanism and skin moisturizing methods, mainly reviewing the natural moisturizing ingredients of plant extracts in cosmetics, including plant polysaccharides, oil, saponins, flavonoids and polyphenols. The moisturizing mechanism of plant extracts is different according to their composition and structure. Hydrophilic constituents of plant extracts mainly attract and hold water through hydrogen bonding with their hydroxyl groups or phenolic hydroxyl groups, and they can differ in water binding capacity as in their ability to influence the degree of skin hydration; And fatty acids of plant oils will form a thin layer of oil on the skin to prevent water evaporation and keep the skin moisturized. Besides the application as moisturizing ingredients, many plant extracts also show antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities which have great potential application in cosmetics. Here we review the moisturizing ingredients of plant extracts in detail, in order to provide ideas for the application of plant extracts as natural moisturizers in cosmetics.

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    Development and application
    Study on the preparation and transdermal performance of EGCG flexible liposome
    CHEN Feng-feng,CAO Zhen-da,LIANG Rong
    2021, 51 (5):  390-395.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.05.003
    Abstract ( 415 )   HTML ( 23 )   PDF (1440KB) ( 864 )  

    EGCG flexible liposomes were prepared by modifying the EGCG liposomes with edge activators. The effects of the type and dosage of edge activators on the particle size, encapsulation rate and yield of EGCG flexible liposomes were investigated. The results showed that when Tween 80 was used as the edge activator and the dosage was 50% (the mass ratio to lecithin), the particle size, encapsulation rate and yield were better, which were (77.8±1.40) nm, 85.18%±1.22% and 96.77%±1.47%, respectively. The transdermal experiment showed that the EGCG flexible liposomes exhibited better transdermal effect than the liposomes. The transdermal content of EGCG flexible liposomes was 21.13 μg/cm2 after 24 h, which was significantly higher than EGCG liposomes. It was consistent with the results of fluorescence labeling experiment. Storage stability experiments showed that, compared with EGCG liposomes, the EGCG flexible liposomes were more stable, and the retention rate was up to 88.24% after being stored in the dark at 4 ℃ for 60 days.

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    Effects of commonly used surfactants on Streptococcus salivarius and Weissella oral probiotics
    WANG Yan-wen,WANG Ya-jing,ZHAO Xin,GAO Di,YE Xiang-yin,HUANG Zan-yang,WANG Xiao-yu,WANG Yu
    2021, 51 (5):  396-401.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.05.004
    Abstract ( 335 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (1666KB) ( 609 )  

    The effects of different mass concentrations of surfactants on the growth of oral probiotics were studied. Six surfactants commonly used in oral care products, i.e. PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil (RH-40) , PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil (RH-60) , cocamidopropyl betaine (CAB-35) , sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (LS-97) ,sodium cocoyl glycinate (AK-301) and sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) , were used; Weissella cibaria and Streptococcus salivarius were used as experimental probiotic strains. The results of modified Oxford cup method showed that probiotics were all sensitive to the six surfactants with a mass concentration of 10 g/L; the results of broth micro-dilution method showed that different mass concentrations of different surfactants had different effects on oral probiotics. RH-60 with a mass concentration ≤0.078 g/L and RH-40 with a mass concentration ≤0.156 g/L could promote the growth of probiotics; RH-60 with a mass concentration of 0.156-0.625 g/L, CAB-35 with a mass concentration of 0.02 g/L, and LS-97 and AK-301 with mass concentrations ≤0.039 g/L had no significant effect on the growth of probiotics; SDS, LS-97 and AK-301 with mass concentrations ≥0.313 g/L and CAB-35 with a mass concentration ≥1.25 g/L completely inhibited the growth of probiotics. The inhibitory effects of RH-60 and RH-40 with mass concentrations >0.156 g/L on probiotics were weaker than other surfactants at the same mass concentration. Low mass concentrations of AK-301, CAB-35 and LS-97, and each mass concentration of RH-60 and RH-40, could be given priority to be used in oral care products.

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    Emulsification performance and photocatalytic application of Janus g-C3N4 with different alkyl chain length
    GUO Xiao-ping,ZHANG Hao,GAO Na,ZHANG Rui-qin,LIANG Dong,ZHANG Qiao-ling
    2021, 51 (5):  402-407.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.05.005
    Abstract ( 277 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1481KB) ( 531 )  

    At the interface of paraffin-water emulsion, a series of Janus g-C3N4 were prepared via the one-side modification of nano graphite carbon nitride (g-C3N4) using different bromoalkanes. The products were characterized by XRD, UV-vis, FT-IR and SEM. Their emulsification properties were studied by fluorescence microscopy and contact angle test. The photocatalytic oxidation of benzyl alcohol was used as a probe reaction to investigate the catalytic performance. The results showed that, in the case of the alkyl chain lengths of bromoalkanes being C4, C8, C12 and C16, the Janus catalyst grafted with C12 (JCN-12) behaved best in emulsification, contact angle (75°) and photocatalytic performance. In a concentrated emulsion of benzyl alcohol/water (1 mL/1.5 mL), the conversion of benzyl alcohol reached to 68% (selectivity>99%) with the addition of 20 mg catalyst. It was believed that superoxide radicals (·O-2) played a major role in the reaction, being followed by ·OH and hole h+. The Janus catalyst could be applied to the oxidation of other substituted benzyl alcohols. The catalyst was easily separated and recovered, showing stable performance after 5 times of recycles.

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    Conditions and mechanism for stability of crystalline N-cocoyl glycinate-based facial cleansing cream: Effects of polyols
    TANG Xiao-qin,CHEN Ming-hua
    2021, 51 (5):  408-412.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.05.006
    Abstract ( 1887 )   HTML ( 43 )   PDF (1220KB) ( 888 )  

    The influences of four polyols (glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, PEG-400 and dipropylene glycol) on the stability of crystalline facial cleansing cream based on potassium cocoyl glycinate were investigated. SAXS results displayed lamellar liquid crystal structure of N-cocoyl glycine/potassium N-cocoyl glycinate in aqueous phase. The addition of glycerin increased the interlayer spacing of lamellar, transferring the microstructure towards lamellar liquid crystal structure with broader interlayer spacing. No obvious increasing of the interlayer spacing of lamellar structure was observed with the addition of dipropylene glycol. PEG-400 destroyed the lamellar liquid crystal structure. DSC results revealed that the addition of polyols could elevate the crystallizing temperature. The sequence of impacts was 1,3-butylene glycol>glycerin>PEG-400>dipropylene glycol. In contrast to the rough broad peak of 1,3-butylene glycol system in DSC, the formulation with glycerin showed narrow and clean peak, which indicated that the crystal structure formed with glycerin was uniform and fine. Therefore, glycerin promoted the formation of a more stable layered gel phase and promoted uniform solid crystallization in the system, and the stable coexistence of the two maintained the stability of the crystal-type facial cleansing cream based on potassium cocoyl glycinate.

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    Preparation of Pickering emulsion stabilized by lauroyl lysine
    HE Yi-jing,XU Hu-jun
    2021, 51 (5):  413-420.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.05.007
    Abstract ( 362 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (2212KB) ( 344 )  

    In order to study the effect of lauroyl lysine (LL) on stabilizing water-in-oil Pickering emulsion, LL was synthesized with lauroyl chloride and lysine as the main raw materials. The influence of temperature on particle diameter was explored. Pickering emulsion was prepared by using LL particle emulsifier, and the effects of homogenization rate, emulsification temperature, particle mass fraction and oil/water volume ratio on the preparation of emulsion were discussed. The results show that the particle diameter of LL at the optimal crystallization temperature is (1 347.4±156.9) nm, and the contact angle of LL is 145.8°. The better preparation conditions of Pickering emulsion are that the homogenization rate is 11 000 r/min, the emulsification temperature is 20 ℃, the particle mass fraction is 2%, and the oil/water volume ratio is 5∶5. The emulsion prepared under these conditions has good stability.

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    Study on the activity of radix codonopsis extract and the preparation and quality of a shampoo
    JIA Ying,ZHAO Jing,XIAO You-qin
    2021, 51 (5):  421-427.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.05.008
    Abstract ( 335 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (972KB) ( 333 )  

    A shampoo was prepared in which radix codonopsis extract was the major active ingredient. The content of total flavonoids in radix codonopsis extract was 8.32% as determined by Al(NO33 colorimetry. The in vitro antioxidant ability of radix codonopsis extract was studied. The results showed that the abilities to clear DPPH and hydroxyl radicals and the total antioxidant capacity increased with the increase of mass concentration of total flavonoids. The formulation with an amino acid surfactant as the main surfactant was optimized and evaluated according to GB/T 29679–2013 “Hair shampoo, cream shampoo”. The radix codonopsis shampoo was a product with safe ingredients and good antioxidant capacity and stability.

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    Study on preparation and properties of thermal responsive poly (dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate) quaternary ammonium
    ZHONG Guo-yuan,ZHANG Li-ming,HU Dong-min,PENG Hua-nan,YANG Yan-chun,ZHENG Jie
    2021, 51 (5):  428-432.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.05.009
    Abstract ( 390 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (1250KB) ( 380 )  

    Polydimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (PDMAEMA) homopolymer was prepared by reversible addition fragmentation chain transfer polymerization method, and a series of PDMAEMA quaternary ammonium salts with different degrees of quaternization were synthesized by quaternization with benzyl bromide. The products were characterized by NMR spectroscopy, gel permeation chromatography, surface tension test, dynamic light scattering and Zeta potential analysis were carried out for studying their properties. The results show that PDMAEMA and polyquaternary ammonium salts have been successfully prepared. The aryl quaternized PDMAEMA has excellent surface activity, and the degree of quaternization has little effect on its minimum surface tension. The particle size of the quaternized particles above 40% is obviously increased. As the degree of quaternization increases, the temperature responsibility of PDMAEMA quaternary ammonium salt gradually disappears.

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    Study of anti-inflammatory and anti-allergy effects of Yubara hotspring water combined with dipotassium glycyrrhizinate
    QIAO Wu,JIA Ting-han,LU Jing,HE Lai-jian
    2021, 51 (5):  433-437.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.05.010
    Abstract ( 465 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (1419KB) ( 403 )  

    Keratinocytes and 3D skin models were applied to establish anti-inflammatory and anti-allergy models. Based on this model, the effects of hotspring water (HW) combined with dipotassium glycyrrhizinate (DG) were studied. The results showed that, the safe concentration of DG was below 100 μmol/L combined with 1% HW. The combination group could decrease the activity of NF-κB by 56% (NF-κB was induced by inflammatory cocktail), and could significantly reduce the secretion of IL-1α and IL-6. The combination group also provided anti-allergy effect by reducing the secretion of VEGF and the expression levels of allergy related genes including TRPV1 and COX-2.

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    Evaluation of skin sensitization of three perfumes by using DPRA alternative method
    YANG Ting-ting,YI Lu-yao,WANG Yi,LI Jie,JI Wei-jia,ZHANG Hong
    2021, 51 (5):  438-442.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.05.011
    Abstract ( 338 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1262KB) ( 334 )  

    The sensitization of lyral, chloroatranol and atranol was evaluated by direct peptide reaction test (DPRA) . The DPRA method was established in our lab. The polypeptide elimination rate of lyral, chloroatranol, atranol and six other compounds with known sensitization were measured by HPLC, and the skin sensitization was then predicted. The feasibility of DPRA method was determined by comparing its consistency with LLNA results, and the sensitization of the three perfumes was finally determined. The sensitization results of the six known compounds as evaluated by DPRA and LLNA were consistent, and the DPRA predictions of the three perfumes were positive. The DPRA method was simple and accurate, and could be used as an alternative method for skin sensitization evaluation.

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    Reviews
    Novel photoswitchable molecules DASA: synthesis, properties and functional applications
    MIN Fan,HUANG Hai-kang,WANG De-qi,CHU Zong-lin
    2021, 51 (5):  443-449.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.05.012
    Abstract ( 1068 )   HTML ( 28 )   PDF (1342KB) ( 705 )  

    Donor-Acceptor Stenhouse Adducts (DASA) are a novel type of photoswitchable compounds that consist of donors, acceptors and triene-enol bridges. The triene-enol chain could be destroyed by absorbing visible light, resulting in structural transformation from colored linear structure to the colorless cyclic structure. The colorless cyclic structure could reverse to linear structure in the dark environment through thermal relaxation. Such unique photoswitchable properties impart them great potential in the areas of smart materials, biosensors, drug delivery, supramolecular chemistry, catalysis, and surface technology. They are able to control the microfluidic systems due to the change of polarity after irradiation, and their green-light responsive character can avoid the damage by ultraviolet radiation, which makes them proper drug delivery controller compared to traditional UV-responsive photoswitches. In this review, we have summarized the synthesis, photoswitchable behaviors and functional applications of DASA, and we also point out the future trends in this field.

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    Research progress on the chemical constituents and biological effects of Cortex Lycii
    XU He-ran,ZHAO Le,ZHANG Xiao-na,HUA Jing-lin,WANG Min,ZHAO Hua
    2021, 51 (5):  450-456.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.05.013
    Abstract ( 631 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (1176KB) ( 1239 )  

    Cortex Lycii, the dried root bark of Lycium barbarum L. and Lycium chinense Mill. which belongs to Lycium, is a kind of traditional Chinese medicine with a long history of medicine and food and has high biological efficacy and medicinal value. It contains a variety of ingredients, including alkaloids, organic acids, glycosides, sterols, coumarins, anthraquinones, flavonoids, etc. Not only has a wealth of pharmacological activity, but also has the treatment of skin damage and beauty skin care effect. This article aimed at reviewing the recent literatures on its origin and distribution, the effective chemical constituents, pharmacological activity and mechanism, skin care effect and research status of Cortex Lycii so as to look forward to the application prospect of Cortex Lycii as a natural functional raw material in skin care and cosmetics industry.

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    Progress in research of the stability of polytetrafluoroethylene dispersion
    CHEN Yue,YIN Hong-yao,SUI Xiao-yuan,FENG Yu-jun
    2021, 51 (5):  457-462.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.05.014
    Abstract ( 542 )   HTML ( 23 )   PDF (1389KB) ( 641 )  

    Owing to the extraordinary properties including high stability, low friction coefficient and large dielectric strength, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) has been used more and more widely in various industries. Highly stable and concentrated PTFE dispersion is the important raw material used to prepare corresponding final products and additives. The preparation of PTFE dispersions was summarized, and then the assessment methods of their stability were introduced. The method based on multiple light scattering technology developed recently was introduced in detail. This method could not only obtain the stability information of PTFE dispersions, but also quantitatively analyze the instability phenomena and causes of the systems, such as floating, precipitation, flocculation, coalescence and so on. In addition, the stabilization mechanism of PTFE concentrated dispersions was reviewed. The research progress in the stability thereof in recent years was summarized, and the development trend of this field was prospected.

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    Analytical methods and testing
    Application of high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry in rapid screening of prohibited drugs in cosmetics
    ZHAO Zheng-rong
    2021, 51 (5):  463-467.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.05.015
    Abstract ( 359 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1214KB) ( 407 )  

    In response to people’s skin allergies and inflammation during the process of using cosmetics, high-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS) was used to quickly screen 8 prohibited drugs (minoxidil, estriol, spironolactone, canrenone, estrone, estradiol, diethylstilbestrol, progesterone prog) in cosmetics. The cosmetic samples were extracted by methanol water mixed solution with a certain volume ratio. HLB solid phase extraction column is used to purify cosmetic samples. The chromatographic column was used to separate the reconstituted sample solution. Methanol-water with a concentration of 10 mmol/L was used as the mobile phase for gradient elution. 8 kinds of prohibited drugs in cosmetics were analyzed qualitatively and quantitatively. Experiments have detected that the recovery rate of 8 kinds of cosmetics are between 80% and 96%. The relative standard deviations of 8 kinds of cosmetics are between 3.7% and 8.2%, which can meet the screening requirements of prohibited drugs in cosmetics and improve the accuracy of rapid screening of prohibited drugs in cosmetics.

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    Detection of 76 glucocorticoids in cosmetics by automatic solid-phase extraction and LC/MS/MS
    YANG Piao-piao,LIU Hong,LI Li-xia
    2021, 51 (5):  468-476.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.05.016
    Abstract ( 338 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (1109KB) ( 382 )  

    A automatic solid-phase extraction- ultra-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometric (UPLC-MS/MS) method was established for the determination of 76 glucocorticoids in cosmetics. The mass spectrometer was operated by electrospray ionization and positive multiple reaction monitoring. The cosmetics with liquid water-based, emulsion and cream were investigated. The samples were dispersed in saturated sodium chloride solution, extracted with acetonitrile, and purified by automatic solid-phase extraction apparatus. The results show that the limits of detection (LODs) for 76 glucocorticoids are in the range of 0.004-0.024 μg/g. Good linear relationship exists between peak area and mass concentration of 10-100 ng/mL with correlation coefficients higher than 0.99. The average recoveries are in the range of 76.1%-120.8%, with relative standard deviations (RSDs) of 0.4%-13.0%.The method is simple, efficient, sensitive, reliable,and is suitable for the general detection of 76 glucocorticoids in various kinds of cosmetics.

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