Table of Content

25 February 2022, Volume 52 Issue 2 Previous Issue    Next Issue

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Preparation and CO2 flooding plugging channeling performance of acid resistant nanospheres Ma Liping,Liu Xiaochun,Yang Tangying,Lv Wei,Zhou Bobo,Yang Hongbin 2022, 52 (2):  109-115.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.02.001 Abstract ( 237 )   HTML ( 56 )   PDF (1556KB) ( 399 )   Aimed at the channeling problem of CO2 flooding in low permeability reservoir of Changqing, acid resistant nanospheres （AR-NS） were prepared by inverse microemulsion polymerization using acrylamide （AM） as monomer, 4-styrene sulfonate （SSS） and dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride （DMDAAC） as functional monomers, N, N’-methylene bis acrylamide （MBA） as crosslinking agent, sodium bisulfite and ammonium persulfate as initiators. The results show that the smooth microspheres with high dispersion are found in the emulsion, with an average particle size of 255 nm. The mass retention rate of the acid resistant nanospheres is still about 20%, when the temperature is 450 ℃. It has good temperature resistance. Under the condition of acid formation water, the expansion ratio of the acid resistant nanospheres is 13.8 times, while that of the ordinary nanospheres is only 3.7 times. When the reservoir temperature is 85 ℃ and the concentration is 5 000 mg/L, the viscosity of the suspension is only 0.56 mPa·s, and it has good injectability. The plugging experiment of supercritical CO2 flooding in low permeability heterogeneous fractured core shows that the plugging efficiency of fractured core is 95.41% and the recovery efficiency is increased by 21.03% after acid resistant nanospheres injection. Acid resistant nanospheres have excellent plugging channeling effect in low permeability CO2 flooding reservoirs. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the surface activity and application properties of cetrimonium salts with organic counterions Wang Yakui,Ju Hongbin,Geng Tao,Cao Yupeng,Yang Weiguang,Ding Hui,Jiang Yajie 2022, 52 (2):  116-123.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.02.002 Abstract ( 420 )   HTML ( 30 )   PDF (1265KB) ( 355 )   The surface activity, antistatic performance, salt resistance, acid and alkali resistance, metal corrosion, antimicrobial properties and biodegradability of cetrimonium formate （HTAF）, cetrimonium acetate （HTAA） and cetrimonium butyrate （HTAE） were investigated, and the antibacterial properties and detergency of binary mixed systems of HTAF mixed with sodium alkylpolyoxyethylene sulphate （AES）, sodium polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylate （AEC-9Na） and alkyl glucoside （APG1214） were measured. The results are as follows: the critical micelle concentration （cmc） and the surface tension at cmc （γcmc） of HTAE are lower than that of HTAF and HTAA; the antistatic performance of HTAF and HTAA is basically at the same order of magnitude as traditional antistatic agent octadecyl dimethyl hydroxyethyl ammonium nitrate （SN）, while the antistatic performance of HTAE is poor; three cetrimonium salts with organic counterions have exhibited strong salt resistance （>200 g/L） against either monovalent Na+or divalent Ca2+ and Mg2+, and have good acid and alkali resistance; their corrosiveness to metals is significantly lower than that of cetrimonium chloride （HTAC） ; the primary biodegradability after 7 days for three surfactants is greater than 98%; HTAF shows good antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus （S. aureus） and Escherichia coli （E. coli） （>95%） even at a content of 20 mg/kg. The results of binary mixed systems show that, AES/HTAF mixed system has better detergency than that of standard laundry detergent, but has no antibacterial activity; AEC-9Na/HTAF mixed system has both excellent antibacterial performance and detergency; APG1214/HTAF mixed system has good antibacterial activity but poor detergency. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation, properties and applications of natural biomass materials (Ⅱ)pH-sensitive functional marine polysaccharide: sodium alginate Mao Jinchao,Sui Zhenquan,Xu Guiyun,Fan Jinshi 2022, 52 (2):  124-133.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.02.003 Abstract ( 913 )   HTML ( 25 )   PDF (1614KB) ( 701 )   Sodium alginate is a kind of typical, widely used, pH-sensitive functional marine polysaccharide, which is extracted from the abundant seaweed in ocean. Sodium alginate is composed of β-D-mannuronic acid （M） and α-L-gulonic acid （G） linked by 1 → 4 glycosidic bonds and can be chemically modified due to the presence of reactive hydroxyl group, carboxyl group and glucosidic bond in the molecular structure, via oxidation, reductive amination, sulfation, copolymerization of hydroxyl group, esterification, Ugi reaction, amidation of carboxyl group, and degradation of glucosidic bond. For possessing many excellent properties including non-toxic, water-soluble, biocompatible, biodegradable, film-forming, gelling, thickening, anti-allergy, flocculation, chelation, plant growth promotion and flame retardant, sodium alginate and its derivatives, composites and blends have been extensively studied and applied in food, medicine, cosmetics, textile printing and dyeing, water treatment, agriculture, functional materials and other industrial fields. Herein, the name, source, structure, physical and chemical properties and conventional production methods of sodium alginate, and the current application status of sodium alginate and sodium alginate-based materials were introduced. The research trend and development prospect of this valuable natural marine biomass material were also pointed out. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the effect of compound penetration enhancer on the permeability of Angelica’s water-soluble component ferulic acid in vitro Ran Xin,Wang Jilong,Liu Xiaoxia,He Hongjie,Wei Shuchang,Feng Xiaoli,Li Zhenzhen 2022, 52 (2):  134-139.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.02.004 Abstract ( 246 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF (1103KB) ( 292 )   By using vertical transdermal diffusion tester and HPLC to determine the content of index components in the receiving solution, the in vitro transdermal absorption experiment was carried out by using isolated mouse skin as the transdermal barrier. The effects of classical penetration enhancers Azone, menthol and borneol on the in vitro transdermal penetration of ferulic acid, a water soluble component of Angelica sinensis, were studied, and the best compound penetration enhancer was selected. The experimental results show that the three penetration enhancers have a good effect on the penetration of ferulic acid in vitro, and the cumulative permeability of ferulic acid increases gradually within 24 hours. When used alone, the effect on the transdermal permeability of ferulic acid is menthol>borneol>azone., while used in combination, the effect on the transdermal permeability of ferulic acid is borneol>menthol>azone. And the best compound penetration enhancer is 2% borneol+2% menthol. The results show that the combination of them is better than azone, borneol and menthol alone. The cumulative permeability per unit area （Q24） in 24 hours is 34.32 μg/cm 2, and the multiple （ER） is 64.195, which is 8 times and 25 times higher than that of menthol and borneol alone, respectively, with the lag time less than 2 hours. The synergistic effect is obvious. In other words, the optimized compound penetration enhancer has a good effect on the penetration of ferulic acid, a water-soluble component of Angelica sinensis, and can provide a penetration enhancer for the development of Angelica sinensis and transdermal drug delivery preparations with Angelica sinensis as the main prescription. At the same time, by comparing the permeability of mouse skin and Strat-M TM membrane to ferulic acid, it is found that although the permeability of the two kinds of transdermal barrier is the same, the lag time of Strat-MTM membrane is much shorter than that of mouse skin, indicating that the barrier effect of Strat-MTM membrane on ferulic acid is less than that of mouse skin. Because the permeability of mouse skin is higher than that of human skin, if Strat-MTMmembrane is used in ferulic acid transdermal experiment in vitro, the transdermal lag time may be much different from the real situation. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the synthesis and performance of diglucosyl gallic acid Zhang Kaiqiang,Xu Hujun 2022, 52 (2):  140-146.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.02.005 Abstract ( 760 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF (1714KB) ( 513 )   A whitening agent, diglucosyl gallic acid, was synthesized through acetylation reaction, salt formation, acidification and other processes using methyl gallate and pentaacetyl glucose as raw materials. The structure of the final product was confirmed by IR, MS, 1H NMR and 13C NMR. The effect of diglucosyl gallic acid on tyrosinase activity, the inhibitory mechanism of tyrosine diphenolase activity and the antioxidant capacity were investigated. The results show that when L-tyrosine is used as a substrate, diglucosyl gallic acid can not only prolong the lag time of the tyrosine monophenolase reaction, but also cause a further increase in the lag time with the increase of concentration, and its half-inhibitory mass concentration IC50 is 1.46 mg/mL; When L-dopa is used as a substrate, the progress curve of the inhibitory effect of diglucosyl gallic acid at different mass concentrations on tyrosine diphenolase all passes through the origin of the coordinate axis, indicating that the progress has occurred and shows a retardation effect, and the IC50 of diglucosyl gallic acid against tyrosine diphenolase is 2.68 mg/mL; the enzyme activity was plotted against the enzyme concentration. As the mass concentration of diglucosyl gallic acid increases, the slope of the straight line continues to decrease and all straight lines intersect at the origin, which indicates that the inhibitory effect of diglucosyl gallic acid on tyrosine diphenolase is a reversible process, namely the inhibitory effect is through the binding of diglucosyl gallic acid with the enzyme to inhibit the activity of tyrosine diphenolase, thereby reducing the efficiency of the enzyme to catalyze the oxidation of L-dopa to produce dopa pigment, rather than reducing the effective enzyme amount; Lineweaver-Burk double reciprocal mapping method was used to judge the inhibitory effect type and inhibitory constant of diglucosyl gallic acid. As the mass concentration of diglucosyl gallic acid increases, the vertical intercept of all straight lines is 2.645. Moreover, the slope of the straight line （Michaelis constant Km） also shows an increasing trend, while Vmax remains basically unchanged, which can indicate that the type of inhibitory effect of diglucosyl gallic acid on tyrosine diphenolase is competitive inhibition. Gallic acid has a better scavenging effect on DPPH free radicals than VC does under the same mass concentration, while diglucosyl gallic acid still has a certain scavenging effect on DPPH free radicals compared to VC under the same mass concentration. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Discussion on the time effect in surface tension measurement by pendant drop method Ye Danni,Xing Jie,Li Jihui,Liang Li,Zhang Yuhong,Yao Yongyi 2022, 52 (2):  147-151.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.02.006 Abstract ( 300 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF (1189KB) ( 255 )   Surface tension is an important physical property of fluid. The methods for measuring surface tension usually include capillary rising method, maximum bubble pressure method, ring method, plate method, spinning drop method and pendant drop method. At present, the most common method to measure surface tension is plate method or ring method as recommended by the national standard. However, as a mature method of surface tension measurement, pendant drop method has the functions of static and dynamic surface tension measurement, but it is seldom used. In this work, when the static surface tension of surfactant solution with relatively low concentration was measured by pendant drop method, it was found that the results were quite different from that of ring method, while the data of pure liquids and those surfactant solutions with higher concentrations were essentially in agreement with those results obtained by ring method. In addition, dynamic surface tension measurement was used to explore the reasons for the differences between the two methods in static measurement. The application scope of surface tension measurement by pendant drop method was also summarized. Regarding the accuracy of surface tension test by pendant drop method, the influence of time must be paid close attention to. For the samples of low efficiency to reduce the surface tension, especially at relatively low concentrations, it is recommended to use dynamic surface tension measurement rather than static surface tension measurement. As a mature method, pendant drop method has been applied to the determination of surface tension. Most of the current studies have focused on the determination of pure liquids, and most of them are static determination. In practical applications, surfactant solutions are multicomponent systems, and sometimes it is necessary to rapidly reduce surface tension at lower concentrations. Therefore, in such kind of research, it is very necessary to use pendant drop method to study dynamic surface tension of the mixed surfactant system. Pendant drop method, as a method with simple operation, less sample amount, rapid determination and accurate results, has both static surface tension and dynamic surface tension measurement, and will be applied to a wider range. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research on the amphiphilic polymer applied in hair conditioner Qin Zhiang,Zhang Yun,Liu Dong,Cao Yuhua 2022, 52 (2):  152-158.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.02.007 Abstract ( 321 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF (1497KB) ( 286 )   The amphiphilic polymer was used as a conditioner in a silicone-free hair conditioner. The amphiphilic random copolymer poly （styrene-co-acrylic acid） was synthesized by free radical polymerization. Through the cation-π electron interaction between the cationic surfactant behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride and the benzene ring in the copolymer, the amphiphilic random copolymer poly （styrene-co-acrylic acid） would be adsorbed on the hair surface to give more smoothness to hair. The hair conditioner with excellent combing performance was prepared by adjusting the molar ratio of styrene in poly （styrene-co-acrylic acid） to behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, the concentration of behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride as well as the dosage. The prepared conditioner was evaluated and compared with silicone conditioner. The results show that, the amphiphilic random polymer poly（styrene-co-acrylic acid） is successfully synthesized; the molecular weight of the polymer is 11 824 and the polydispersity coefficient is 1.67; the optimized molar ratio is close to the feeding ratio of 7∶3. The residual amount of the amphiphilic polymer on the hair is positively correlated with the viscosity of the compound solution, i.e., the greater the viscosity of the compound solution, the greater the cation-π electron interaction, and thus the more easily the amphiphilic polymer would stay on the hair surface. The optimized conditions are as follows: the usage amount of BTAC is 1 mL; the mass fraction is 2.0%; the molar ratio is 1.2. Under this condition, the residual amount of the amphiphilic polymer on the hair is 102 μg/ghair. The analysis of the significant difference in the maximum friction force and the combing work show that the wet combing performance is significantly improved by adding the amphiphilic polymer into the hair conditioner, and the wet combing performance of the self-made conditioner is better than that of the commercially available silicone-containing conditioners. SEM images show that the hair scales after treatment with the prepared conditioner are regular and without curling. The amphiphilic polymer has no cumulative effect on hair. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study of the anti-aging efficacy of Prunus persica （peach） resin extract Huang Shaoyong,Zhou Lidan,Xun Wei,Shi Xuemei,Lu Yina 2022, 52 (2):  159-165.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.02.008 Abstract ( 2424 )   HTML ( 59 )   PDF (1551KB) ( 549 )   Photoaging or premature aging of skin is caused by a variety of factors, including hormone imbalance and exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Both ultraviolet light and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons in haze can cause skin aging and inflammation. Peach resin is a gum substance secreted from the bark of Rosaceae Prunus persica （L.） Batsch or Prunus davidiana （Carr.） Franch, which is beneficial to health. It also has the advantages of being natural and non-toxic, large in yield, and low in price. Peach gum is a kind of polysaccharide, which has the characteristics of swelling in water and slow release. At present, peach gum has been widely used in food and health care, but the basic research is still relatively weak. Peach gum is a natural cosmetic raw material with great potential for development and application. In this study, a Prunus persica （Peach） resin extract （PG） was prepared and its anti-aging effect was detected by several methods. The results suggested that, based on the model of fibroblast cell aging, PG could promote cell proliferation, Collagen Ⅰ expression and inhibit the activity of beta-GAL in a dosage-dependent manner in the mass fraction range of 0.3% to 10%. In the cell damage model induced by UVA and BaP, PG at the mass fraction between 0.1% to 10% could inhibit the expression of inflammatory factors Prostaglandin E2 and Matrix metallopeptidase 1. The results of clinical study showed that 5% and 10% PG had significantly increased skin tightening effect. In human clinical evaluation, PG at the mass fraction range of 2% to 10% could significantly increase skin moisture content, reduce transepidermal water loss, improve skin firmness, and reduce wrinkles. As a natural material with anti-aging effect, PG can be used in skin anti-wrinkle products. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Whitening efficacy and mechanism study of compound of Ganoderma atrum （mushroom） extract and pearl extract Jin Jiaying,Chen Lu,Wang Xinzhi,Liu Rui,Wu Hao 2022, 52 (2):  166-171.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.02.009 Abstract ( 372 )   HTML ( 24 )   PDF (1293KB) ( 315 )   The literature reported that both pearl and Ganoderma lucidum had whitening effects, and both of them had products in cosmetics field, but the compound of pearl and Ganoderma lucidum was seldom reported. The purpose of this article was to study the advantages of the compound of pearl extract and Ganoderma lucidum extract in the development of whitening cosmetics. The whitening effects of Ganoderma atrum （mushroom） extract, pearl extract and their compound extracts were evaluated by in vitro tyrosinase and B16 cell model. The effects on tyrosinase activity in vitro, B16 cell viability, relative melanin content in B16 cells, expression level of tyrosinase （TYR） and tyrosinase-related protein 1（TRP1） mRNA were studied. The results of B16 cell viability show that Ganoderma atrum （mushroom） extract, pearl extract and their compound extracts have no cytotoxicity, and they can be used to B16 cells to next step. The results of tyrosinase activity and relative melanin content in B16 cells show that 1% Ganoderma atrum （mushroom） extract, 2% pearl extract and the compound extract can significantly inhibit tyrosinase activity （P<0.05） and reduce melanin content in B16 cells（P<0.05）. Inhibition rate of tyrosinase activity of the compound extract reaches 32.87%, and inhibition rate of melanin synthesis of the compound extract reaches 68.27%. Compared the compound extract with Ganoderma atrum （mushroom） extract and pearl extract, the compound extract has better effect of reducing the melanin content in B16 cells （P<0.05）. The results of the mRNA expression levels of tyrosinase （TYR） and tyrosinase-related protein 1（TRP1） show that the group of the compound extract can significantly reduce mRNA expression levels of TYR and TRP1 （P<0.05）, while single groups can only significantly reduce TYR mRNA expression levels. TRP1 can regulate the production of eumelanin, which is a species of melanin. The results show that the compound extract has better effect on inhibiting the formation of eumelanin, indicating that 2% pearl extract combined with 1% Ganoderma atrum （mushroom） extract have better effect on inhibiting the formation of melanin and it is related with its significant reduction of TRP1 mRNA expression. The compound extract has potential to develop as a cosmetic efficacy additive into whitening cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Evaluation of antioxidant and whitening efficacy of Prunus mume extract Zha Yufeng,Huang Jiawen,Zhan Yi,Li Ting,Yan Hong,Wu Desong 2022, 52 (2):  172-179.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.02.010 Abstract ( 472 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (1440KB) ( 378 )   In vitro evaluation method was used to study the anti-oxidation and whitening effects of Prunus mume extract. Preliminary evaluation of its antioxidant activity was conducted by measuring the IC50 of Prunus mume extract on superoxide anion and hydroxyl radical scavenging. And in the H2O2-induced oxidative damage model of human skin fibroblast cell line （HFF-1 cells）, the antioxidant activity of Prunus mume extract was evaluated by examining the cell morphology, cell survival rate, malondialdehyde （MDA） content, reactive oxygen radical （ROS） content, superoxide dismutase （SOD） activity, glutathione （GSH） activity, type I collagen （ColⅠ） content and matrix metalloproteinase 1 （MMP-1） content. The tyrosinase activity inhibition experiment and the melanin content determination experiment of B16-F10 cells were used to evaluate the whitening effect of the Prunus mume extract. The results show that the Prunus mume extract has free radical scavenging effect, and the 60% and 90% alcohol extract of Prunus mume can significantly increase the activity of HFF-1 cells, SOD activity, GSH activity and Col Ⅰ content, and decrease the content of ROS, MDA and MMP-1. And it can also significantly reduce the melanin content in B16-F10 cells. To sum up, the white plum extract has obvious antioxidant and whitening effects. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress in improving the washing performance of alkaline protease Wang Penghui,Wang Weixian,Zeng Hui,Rui Zebao 2022, 52 (2):  180-189.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.02.011 Abstract ( 500 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (1204KB) ( 460 )   Alkaline protease is the most widely used enzyme in liquid detergents. The alkaline protease used in detergent industry accounts for more than 60% of the alkaline protease market. Different from the enzyme in powder detergents, which is wrapped due to granulation, the alkaline protease in liquid detergent is directly exposed to the solution and interacts with various deactivators such as surfactants, builders and bleaching agents. Anionic surfactants can cause significant changes in the conformation of alkaline protease, bleaching agents can partially oxidize the active center of protease, and chelators will compete with protease for Ca2+ to stabilize its active conformation, all resulting in the decline of washing stability of alkaline protease. In addition, the alkaline protease in liquid detergents suffers from the autolysis which can be enhanced by other deactivation factors, leading to an adverse effect on its washing performance. The stabilization of alkaline protease has been a hot topic. Researchers have made a lot of efforts on improving the stability of protease, which can improve the performance of enzyme preparation, reduce production costs and improve economic benefits. Extremozymes isolated from high or low temperatures, high salinity or alkaline environment have great potential in detergent industry, but it still needs a long time for industrial application because of the high cost of separation and cultivation. Herein, the catalytic and inactivation mechanisms of alkaline protease have been introduced, and the Ser-His-Asp catalytic triad is the key to the peptide bond hydrolysis activity of alkaline protease. Typical strategies for the stabilization of alkaline protease have been reviewed, including adding stabilizers, molecular modification and chemical modification. Adding stabilizers is the simplest but effective way to stabilize protease, and the stabilization effect of multi-component system is often better than that of a single stabilizer. Molecular modification is a new method of enzyme stabilization with high technical threshold, and the modification is not targeted at the enzyme itself, but involved in the process of enzyme translation, synthesis and expression. Chemical modification is a traditional strategy to improve the stability of enzyme, but seldom used for the enzymes for washing. Special attention has been paid to the introduction and comparison of polyethylene glycol modification and glycosylation modification. Finally, future perspectives of the stabilization stratagies for alkaline protease have been provided. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Comparative analysis and enlightenment of international cosmetics supervision modes Cao Xi,Chen Jiansheng,Liu Zuoren,Xie Zhijie,Chen Min 2022, 52 (2):  190-198.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.02.012 Abstract ( 515 )   HTML ( 27 )   PDF (918KB) ( 526 )   The aim is to study the similarities and differences of cosmetics supervision modes in the United States（US）, European Union（EU）, Japan, and China, and learn from the advanced experience of foreign cosmetics supervision modes, so as to provide reference for promoting the innovation of China’s cosmetics supervision, looking for more new methods, tools, standards and systems, and promoting the modernization of cosmetics management system and management ability. Literature research method and comparative analysis method were adopted to find documents related to cosmetics supervision mode through relevant literature and websites, and comparative analysis was conducted on cosmetics definitions, regulatory departments, laws and regulations, relevant social organizations and supervision methods in the US, EU, Japan and China. The regulatory systems of US and EU are relatively mature and complete, and the supervision modes have their own different characteristics. Japan and China are in line with US and EU. The EU adopts a market-oriented model, implements a cosmetics responsible person system and a filing system,relatively weakens the current pre-regulation of production access, strengthens the government’s supervision during and after the event, and the role of industry associations in formulating standards and regulating industry self-discipline is at the world’s leading level. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Appearance changes and formation factors of facial skin aging Du Kesi,Li Zeqiao,Zhang Baojiang,Zheng Yumei,Ren Hankun,Cheng Jianhua 2022, 52 (2):  199-206.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.02.013 Abstract ( 666 )   HTML ( 37 )   PDF (936KB) ( 568 )   Skin tends to show regular asymptotic changes with age, showing some specific aging signs, such as skin wrinkles, sagging and pigmentation. These aging changes affect physical attractiveness and perceived age, contradicting people’s desire to look younger. How to develop effective anti-aging products based on the mechanism of skin aging is the focus of enterprises. This paper summarized the appearance changes of skin aging, the influence of appearance signs of aging on perceived age, and the internal mechanism and external influencing factors of the skin aging signs. The most obvious and dominant skin aging signs are wrinkles and sagging, which are associated with changes in skin structure, regardless of gender, race or region, and the rest are mainly pigmentation problems. The severity of these aging problems and cultural background together affect people’s subjective judgment of age and health. The formation of wrinkles is more like the double result of muscle contraction and tissue defect, and skin softness and moisture content also play an important role. The decrease of skin thickness, extracellular matrix composition and water content associated with aging are the main contributing factors to the formation of wrinkles. The mechanism of skin sagging involves skin deformation （mechanics） caused by progressive stretching of skin by gravity, atrophy of dermis and subcutaneous adipose tissue, weakening of support force of adipose muscle and damage of elastic fibers. The appearance of “faded old woman” is related to carbonylation and glycosylation of dermal protein. Sun exposure and environmental pollution can worsen the appearance of aging, increase perceived age, and present premature aging. Skin aging signs are the result of comprehensive factors. The development of anti-aging products based on mechanisms of different skin aging signs of wrinkles, sagging, and pigmentation will be more targeted to solve consumer’s needs. This paper provides suggestions and directions for researchers to develop multi-dimensional skin anti-aging products. References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Determination of betamethasone and eight analogues in cosmetics by UPLC-ESI-Q-TOF/MS Jia Changping,Zhang Bin,Zhang Shanshan,Zheng Jiaxin,Zheng Mei,Chen Wei 2022, 52 (2):  207-213.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.02.014 Abstract ( 373 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1356KB) ( 313 )   A method of ultra-performance liquid chromatography-high resolution mass spectrometry （UPLC-ESI-Q-TOF/MS） was developed for simultaneous determination of betamethasone and its 8 analogues. The separation was executed on a small particle column, and gradient elution was used. The mass spectrometer was performed in positive ion mode, and the identification was performed by MS2 scan with aid of standards, and the determination was carried out in MS scan mode by the external standard method. The analysis method developed was validated. The linear relationship in the linear range was satisfactory, the detection limit was between 0.05 and 0.34 mg/kg. The recovery was 93.1%-103.7%, and the relative standard deviation was less than 6%. In the analysis of 10 batches of cosmetics, glucocorticoids were detected in five batches. Furthermore, two glucocorticoids additives were found for the first time, i.e., betamethasone 17-propionate and betamethasone 21-propionate. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Determination of 38 anti-infective drugs in cosmetics by ultra high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry Lu Linling,Qian Yefei,Zhang Bin,Lu Hui,Chen Libo,Min Chunyan,Chen Wei 2022, 52 (2):  214-223.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.02.015 Abstract ( 345 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1600KB) ( 277 )   An ultra high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometric method was established for the determination of 38 forbidden anti-infective drugs in 2 matrixes of cosmetics. The cosmetic samples were extracted with solvent and performed on a Waters BEH C18 （2.1 mm×100 mm, 1.7 μm） column with binary mobile phase consisting of 0.1% ammonium acetate pH=4.0 （solvent A） and 0.1% formic acid methanol solution （B） with gradient elution. Samples were analyzed by electronic spray ionization under a positive ion or negative ion mode with multiple reaction monitoring （MRM）, and then quantified by an external standard curve. The calibration curve of chloramphenicol is linear within the range of 100-1 000 μg/L and the calibration curves of the other 37 target compounds are linear within the range of 15-150 μg/L with the correlation coefficients above 0.99. The limits of detection （LOD） and limits of quantitation （LOQ） are in the ranges of 0.3-240.4 μg/kg and 1.1-801.2 μg/kg, respectively. The recoveries for 38 prohibited anti-infective drugs at three spiked levels are in the range of 79.0%-119.8% with the relative standard deviations （RSD） of 0.3%-9.7%（n=6）. The method is simple, rapid and accurate, and quite suitable for the simultaneous determination of illegally added anti-infective drugs in aqueous and cream cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Determination of trace boron in talcum powder for children by microwave digestion and ICP-MS Guo Shanshan,Gu Fang,Xiao Zifen,Chen Xu,Lu Duanping 2022, 52 (2):  224-228.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.02.016 Abstract ( 194 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (953KB) ( 335 )   In this paper, according to the regulation that boric acid and borate should not be detected in talcum powder for children （under 3 years old）, an inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry （ICP-MS） method was explored to determine trace boron in children’s talcum powder. In exploratory stage, operation parameters of ICP-MS, microwave digestion pre-treatment, interference of coexisting ions were studied. By optimizing the microwave digestion system, HNO3-H2O2 digestion solvent system was selected, and the temperature of the digestion procedure was raised to 185 ℃ for 30 minutes. In the process of optimizing instrument conditions, Nogas analysis mode was selected as the instrumental analysis mode, and yttrium （Y） was used as the internal standard element. Meanwhile, the test of interference with coexisting ions indicated that the common coexisting ions in talcum powder such as Na+, K+, Ca2+, Mg2+, Fe2+, Al3+, Pb2+, Zn2+ had no effects on the determination of boron. Under the best experimental conditions, the boron in the range of 0-20 ng/mL can be quantified accurately. The linear correlation coefficient （r） of the method is 0.999 9. The detection limit of boron is as low as 0.02 µg/g and the limit of quantitation of boron is 0.07 µg/g. The recoveries of boron range from 99.2% to 101.4% at low, medium and high mass concentration spiked levels with 2, 4, 20 times of the quantitative concentration. The specific spiked concentrations are 25, 50 and 250 ng and the relative standard deviations （RSDs） （n=3） of recovery experiments are between 2.2% and 5.4%. The RSD （n=6） of positive samples is 1.3%. The data above show that the method is accurate, reliable and sensitive. Applying the method to control quality of 30 batches of children’s talcum powder available in the market, trace boron are detected in 24 batches of the products. Boric acid is obtained through the conversion of the mass number of boron. The results are in accordance with the requirement of current standards. This method can be used for the accurate quantification of trace boron, which is conducive to strengthen the risk control of boric acid and borate in children’s talcum powder. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics