Table of Content

22 January 2022, Volume 52 Issue 1 Previous Issue    Next Issue

Basic research

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Study on the performance of sodium 9, 10-dihydroxystearate Huang Siyu,Jiang Jianzhong,Cui Zhenggang 2022, 52 (1):  1-6.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.001 Abstract ( 340 )   HTML ( 82 )   PDF (1344KB) ( 260 )   Sodium 9,10-dihydroxystearate （SDHS） was synthesized from oleic acid and hydrogen peroxide. Compared with the traditional method for preparing SDHS, this synthetic method had the advantages of short reaction time, high efficiency, no waste water, and low environmental pollution. The product was characterized by 1H-NMR, mass spectroscopy, GC and HPLC. The surface tension, detergency and the emulsifying, foaming and wetting properties of SDHS were studied. The results show that the SDHS synthesized by this method has higher purity; SDHS has good surface-active performance; the emulsifying ability of SDHS is better than those of sodium stearate and sodium oleate; it can stabilize O/W emulsions at low concentrations. Compared with traditional anionic surfactants, SDHS has poor foaming performance. SDHS is a kind of low-foaming surfactant and has poor foam stability. SDHS has good wetting performance, and its wetting power is better than sodium oleate and sodium stearate. The detergency experiment shows that SDHS has better cleaning performance, especially for sebum stained cloth. SDHS is suitable to be used in various detergent formulations. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Lecture of science and technology

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Preparation, properties and applications of natural biomass materials (Ⅰ) The unique alkaline polysaccharide in nature: chitin/chitosan Sui Zhenquan,Mao Jinchao,Xu Guiyun,Fan Jinshi 2022, 52 (1):  7-14.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.002 Abstract ( 1104 )   HTML ( 33 )   PDF (1286KB) ( 619 )   Chitin is the second most abundant naturally occurring biological material after cellulose, as well as the unique alkaline polysaccharide in nature. Chitin, and its deacetylated derivative, chitosan, i.e., a linear copolymer of β-（1→4）-linked 2- acetamido-2-deoxy-β-D-glucopyranose and 2-amino-2-deoxy-β-D-glucopyranose, offer an excellent set of characteristics as functional materials: biocompatibility, biodegradability to harmless products, high bioavailability, nontoxicity, physiological inertness, antibacterial properties, heavy metal ions chelation, gel forming properties and hydrophilicity, and remarkable affinity to protein and tissue. Due to the presence of amino, hydroxyl, acetyl amino groups and glycosidic bonds in the molecules of chitin and chitosan, many special functional derivatives can be produced by schiff base modification, carboxylation, alkylation, acylation, quaternization, graft copolymerization, cross-linking, and degradation. Owing to these unique characteristics and excellent functions, chitin, chitosan and their derivatives have been widely used in various industrial fields, such as pharmaceutical industry, environmental protection, textile printing and dyeing, paper making, food, tissue engineering, enzyme immobilization, and daily-use chemical industries. Herein, the name, structure and origin of chitin and chitosan, as well as the conventional production methods, physical and chemical properties and current application status of chitin, chitosan and their derivatives, were introduced. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Development and application

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Study on the properties of mineral-dust cleaning soap based on microbial inactivated spores Li Meishu,Li Xi,Song Qiuhua,Liu Chunyan,Ni Jiayuan,Pan Tao 2022, 52 (1):  15-19.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.003 Abstract ( 198 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (1101KB) ( 310 )   The production environment of traditional mining and metallurgy industry is abominable, and there is a lot of dust and heavy metal pollution which is a serious threat to the skin health of front-line workers. At present, little attention has been paid to the skin cleaning of mining and metallurgy workers, and there are few relevant products in the market. In this study, by adding microbial inactivated spores to the soaps, the effects of different amounts of spores on the detergency of cleaning soaps were studied. The similarities and differences of dust removal and heavy metal removal between diatomite, activated carbon and spore-added soaps were compared. The effects of these three kinds of soaps on skin cleaning were tested by sensory evaluation. The results show that the addition of diatomite can achieve a dust removal rate of 80%. Although activated carbon has high specific surface area, its fine particles are also easy to be adsorbed in the texture of the palm, causing secondary pollution. Therefore, the removal rate of activated carbon is the lowest. Adding 1% （w/w） inactivated spores to the soap base can remove 95% of the dust pollution, and the removal rate of heavy metals can be increased from 90% to more than 95% by secondary washing. In the sensory evaluation, the palm of the hand after being washed is still not clean enough because of the adsorption of black activated carbon, and the impression is the worst; the cleaning effect of diatomite soap is close to that of daily household soap, and the impression is in the middle; the cleaning effect of spore-added soap has the most obvious cleaning effect, and the impression is the best. There are various functional groups on the microbial spore wall, such as amino acid residues, lipids and proteins, which may play an important role in the cleaning of heavy metals. In conclusion, a cleaning soap for mining dust based on microbial inactivated spores was developed, which could provide deep skin cleaning and effective removal of heavy metals and provide protection for skin health of workers in mining and metallurgy. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the effect and mechanism of Huangdu Chinese herbal mouthwash on periodontal disease-related bacteria Wang Xiaoyu,Wang Yajing,Zhao Xin,Wang Yanwen,Wang Yu,Huang Zanyang 2022, 52 (1):  20-27.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.004 Abstract ( 293 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (2239KB) ( 236 )   The effect and mechanism of Huangdu Chinese herbal mouthwash on the activity of periodontal disease-related bacteria were explored. Periodontal disease-related pathogen Porphyromonas gingivalis and probiotic Weissella cibaria were selected as the indicator bacteria. The effect of Huangdu Chinese herbal mouthwash on the activity of P. gingivalis and W. cibaria was investigated by microbroth dilution method. From the perspective of the cell structure, the regulatory mechanism of Huangdu mouthwash on these two indicators was further investigated by detecting the integrity of cell wall and cell membrane and the activity of energy-metabolism enzymes. The results show that Huangdu mouthwash has significant inhibitory effect on pathogenic bacteria P. gingivalis （growth rate in stable period <20%）, and almost no inhibition on probiotic W. cibaria （growth rate in stable period >80%）. While cetylpyridinium chloride mouthwash significantly inhibits the growth of pathogen P. gingivalis and probiotic W. cibaria, which is almost in the lag phase （growth rate <10%） within 24 hours. Compared with the control group, the content of extracellular AKP, K+, nucleic acid and protein of pathogenic bacteria P. gingivalis is significantly increased （P<0.01）, while the activities of energy-metabolism enzymes SDH and MDH are significantly decreased by 19.84% and 10.31% （P<0.01）, but no significant effect on W. cibaria （P>0.05） is observed in the case of Huangdu mouthwash. It can be concluded that Huangdu mouthwash has bacteriostatic effect by destroying the integrity of cell membrane and cell wall of P. gingivalis and disturbing the energy-metabolism system, but it has little effect on probiotic W. cibaria. However, cetylpyridinium chloride mouthwash has both reduce the activities of pathogen and probiotic by destroying cell membrane and cell wall. The present work suggests that the Huangdu Chinese herbal mouthwash can increase the relative proportion of oral probiotics, improve oral flora, and thus provide a feasible reference for the prevention and treatment of periodontal disease. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation of SiO2-encapsulated TiO2 composite nanoparticles and evaluation of the sunscreen performance Zhang Yaru,Liu Dong,Zhang Yun,Chen Hao,Cao Yuhua 2022, 52 (1):  28-34.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.005 Abstract ( 510 )   HTML ( 39 )   PDF (1402KB) ( 763 )   The rutile TiO2 nanoparticles were encapsulated with silicon dioxide （SiO2） film by sol-gel method. The preparation conditions were optimized by investigating the dosage of polyvinylpyrrolidone （PVP）, the molar ratio of silicon to titanium, and the dosage of aqueous ammonia. The optimized preparation conditions are as follows: the mass of TiO2 is 0.3 g, PVP dosage is 0.4 g, the molar ratio of silicon to titanium is 2∶1, and the dosage of aqueous ammonia is 5 mL. The SiO2-TiO2 composite nanoparticles with small size, thin SiO2 coatings and good monodispersity were thus obtained. The modified nanoparticles were characterized by FT-IR, XRD, SEM, TEM and UV-Vis. The results show that, the vibration absorption peak of Si-O-Ti bond appears at 963 cm-1 in IR spectrum of SiO2-TiO2 composite nanoparticles, which confirms that the surface of TiO2 nanoparticles are coated by SiO2 though covalent binding between Si-OH and Ti-OH to form Si-O-Ti. XRD analysis indicates that, several diffraction peaks attributed to rutile TiO2 still exist after the superficial modification of TiO2 nanoparticles by SiO2, and no new diffraction peaks exist. The TiO2 nanoparticles before and after modification are both rutile type. SEM and TEM show that the modified composite nanoparticles are more regular, and the particle size is approximately 50 nm. Moreover, the agglomeration phenomenon of composite nanoparticles is weakened, and the SiO2 film of thickness of approximately 10 nm is formed on the surface. Therefore, the surface of TiO2 nanoparticles has been successfully modified by SiO2 coatings. The photocatalytic activity of TiO2 nanoparticles and SiO2-TiO2 composite nanoparticles was tested by photodegradation of methylene blue as a probe reaction. The results show that, after surface modification, the photocatalytic activity of composite nanoparticles is effectively inhibited, and the safety of SiO2-TiO2 composite nanoparticles as a sunscreen is greatly improved. The results of UV reflectance show that, after surface modification, the UV transmittance of SiO2-TiO2 composite nanoparticles has been decreased, i.e., the UV blocking ability is enhanced. After introducing the composite nanoparticles into a basic formula of sunscreen, the SPF value of SiO2-TiO2 composite nanoparticles reaches 43.76, which is increased by 40% than that by adding TiO2 nanoparticles into the basic formula of sunscreen, and the sun protection performance is significantly improved. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study of whitening effect and the mechanism of Zhuang medicine Poecilobdella manillensis extract He Ruiyuan,Wang Shuo,Wei Guili,Gong Xiaomei,Wu Peiying,Miao Jianhua 2022, 52 (1):  35-43.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.006 Abstract ( 335 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (1160KB) ( 231 )   This research was aimed to study the whitening effect and mechanism of Zhuang medicine Poecilobdella manillensis extract. MTT method was used to detect the inhibitory effect of Poecilobdella manillensis extract on the proliferation of melanoma cells （B16）. Spectrophotometry was used to detect the effect of Poecilobdella manillensis extract on TYR activity and melanin synthesis in B16 cells, and the scavenging ability of DPPH, ·OH and ·O2- free radicals and the total antioxidant capacity were also detected. Based on an ultraviolet-irradiated nude mice skin pigmentation model, Masson Fontana silver staining was used to show the distribution of melanin in skin, and the levels of TYR, SOD, MDA, α-MSH, bFGF, NGF, IL-1α, TNF-α and IFN-γ in serum were also measured. The results show that the IC50 of B16 cells proliferation are 230.66, 109.70, 53.18 μg/mL after Poecilobdella manillensis extract treatment at 24, 48 and 72 h, respectively. The IC50 of arbutin at 24, 48 and 72 h are 1.11, 1.40 and 1.30 times higher than those of Poecilobdella manillensis extract, respectively. The non-cytotoxic concentration of Poecilobdella manillensis extract could significantly increase the tyrosinase activity and melanin content of B16 cells. The Poecilobdella manillensis extract has strong antioxidant ability in vitro. The IC50 of DPPH, ·OH and ·O2- free radicals are 0.37, 0.38 and 0.43 g/L, respectively. The total antioxidant capacity of 0.8 g/L Poecilobdella manillensis extract is equivalent to 1.0 g/L vitamin E. Poecilobdella manillensis extract could significantly reduce the number of melanocytes in skin of nude mice, increase the content of SOD in serum, decrease the contents of MDA, α-MSH, bFGF, NGF, IL-1α, TNF-α and IFN-γ and TYR activity. Zhuang medicine Poecilobdella manillensis extract has a good whitening effect, and its mechanism may be related to the inhibition of tyrosinase activity and antioxidation capacity. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the promotion of proliferation of dermal papilla cells and VEGF secretion by flavonoids from camellia seed cake Shen Huchi,Chen Diansong,Yang Jingguo,Wang Jing 2022, 52 (1):  44-49.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.007 Abstract ( 228 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (1546KB) ( 322 )   Defatted camellia seed cake was used as raw material, and the flavonoids therein were extracted with aqueous ethanol solution with the aid of ultrasonic wave to explore their biological activity. Different mass concentrations of camellia seed cake flavonoids were applied to human dermal papilla cells （HDPCs） cultured in vitro, and the cell viability was determined by MTT method. The effects on apoptosis and cell cycle were detected by flow cytometry. ELISA method was used to detect the change of vascular endothelial growth factor （VEGF） in cell culture supernatant. The results showed that flavonoid-enriched product of camellia seed cake had a proliferation effect on HDPCs and could promote the secretion of VEGF in a concentration-dependent manner. The proliferation effect was the best when the concentration of flavonoid-enriched product was 20 μg/mL, which was more effective than the positive control of 10 μg/mL minoxidil （**P<0.01）. The flavonoids in camellia seed cake might reduce the premature apoptosis of HDPCs and promote the mitosis of HDPCs and thus lead to an effect on their proliferation. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the hair-growth promotion effect of Complex active substance Li Honghai,Han Ping,Ma Shijing,Xiang Qin,Tang Zhongbiao,Du Zhiyun 2022, 52 (1):  50-55.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.008 Abstract ( 322 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (1068KB) ( 283 )   Astragalus polysaccharide （APS） was used as the main raw material to prepare the Complex active substance （CAS）. The anti-inflammatory and hair-growth promoting activities of CAS were determined by in vitro cell and animal experiments, and the mechanism of action was preliminarily analyzed. The results showed that the content of APS prepared by this method was 86.21%. The results of animal experiment showed that the CAS significantly increased the number of hair follicles and the thickness of the dermis in the alopecia area of mice （p<0.05）, and prolonged the hair growth period. The mechanism might be that the expression of TGF-β1 and IL-1β could be down-regulated to delay hair follicles entering the resting period, and the expression of VEGF in skin tissue could be up-regulated to promote hair-follicle angiogenesis, improve nutrient absorption of hair follicles and thus play a role in promoting hair growth. In addition, the results of in vitro cell experiments showed that the CAS and APS had no cytotoxicity at the investigated concentration, and showed significant concentration-dependent inhibitory effects on LPS-induced NO and IL-1β, suggesting that CAS and APS had good anti-inflammatory activity. Compared with Astragalus polysaccharide, CAS could significantly shorten the time taking for hair growth on the hair-removed skin in mice, and could significantly increase the thickness of the dermis and the number of follicles. Furthermore, CAS could significantly inhibit TGF-β1 expression compared with APS. The animal experiments confirmed that the CAS could inhibit inflammation factor and promote hair growth, which was better than single Astragalus polysaccharides. Moreover, the components of the CAS might have synergistic effects. In conclusion, the CAS could effectively inhibit the inflammatory reaction and promote hair growth, which could be used as active ingredients in daily cosmetics with functions of relieving skin inflammation, preventing hair loss, hair conditioning and hair care. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Construction of a comprehensive evaluation model for the facial skin of young and middle-aged women based on the Chinese female skin database Yang Xiaoxiao,Li Zeqiao,Zhang Baojiang,Zhao Mengmeng,Wang Zixu,Du Yijie,Yi Fan 2022, 52 (1):  56-61.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.009 Abstract ( 445 )   HTML ( 25 )   PDF (1081KB) ( 1823 )   The changes in the appearance of facial skin are an obvious physiological phenomenon in the process of human aging. People are increasingly concerned about the comprehensive skin status. In recent years, newly developed instruments or methods have continuously emerged in the field of non-invasive skin testing. Skin testing and skin photography are the most widely used. Through the analysis of skin testing and skin photography data, objective and true skin data can be obtained to quantify the skin status. Therefore, it is necessary and feasible to establish a new comprehensive skin condition evaluation model to achieve objective and accurate quantification of skin status. Herein, 1,085 female volunteers aged 22-42 were randomly selected from the Chinese Female Skin Testing Database （Beijing Technology and Business University）. The data of skin physiological indicators, VISIA front face and left face cross-polarized light image data （extracted by machine learning algorithms） were collected for correlation analysis between indicators and principal component analysis （PCA） to obtain the core indicators for evaluating individual skin status. KMO test and Bartlett’s test sphere test were used to test the reliability of the principal component data, and the coefficients of each item in the evaluation model were calculated by the method of principal component analysis. There were 10 core indicators related to skin conditions, including age, skin elasticity, skin glossiness, melanin content, heme content, skin moisture content, transdermal water loss, ITA°, sebum secretion, and pores. Eventually, a comprehensive skin status evaluation model was constructed, and the quantified skin score could be obtained by inputting the data of skin physiological indicators into the model. This model gives an objective quantitative judgment on the comprehensive skin condition of women, which avoids the influences of the surrounding environment and the personal subjective consciousness from the naked eye judgment and solves the limitation of time and space for skin evaluation. Collecting relevant index data can be effective on women’s skin evaluation. The research results can provide technical support for comprehensive evaluation of women’s skin status. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Reviews

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Research progress in the detection techniques of PFOA pollution Fan Weigang 2022, 52 (1):  62-68.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.010 Abstract ( 480 )   HTML ( 25 )   PDF (1083KB) ( 500 )   The physical and chemical properties and main application fields of perfluorooctanoic acid were briefly reviewed. The source of perfluorooctanoic acid in natural environment, the harm to organisms and the pollution status were introduced. Four main pretreatment technologies of perfluorooctanoic acid were briefly reviewed, i.e., liquid-liquid extraction, solid phase extraction, accelerated solvent extraction and ultrasonic extraction. The applications of high performance liquid chromatography, liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry, gas chromatography and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry in the determination of perfluorooctanoic acid concentration were emphatically reviewed, and the advantages and disadvantages of these methods were summarized. According to the current literature, the method of liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry （LC-MS） for the determination of perfluorooctanoic acid in the environment or in products has been widely used, which does not require the derivation of samples and exhibits fast analysis speed, high recovery rate and good selectivity. Finally, some suggestions on how to control the pollution of perfluorooctanoic acid in the environment were put forward, and some ideas were provided for the establishment of practical and feasible measures to control the pollution of perfluorooctanoic acid in China. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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A review on international regulatory progress and technical supervision of spray-sunscreen Su Zhe,Gao Jiamin,Li Lin,Niu Zhengrui,Li Yaping,Zhang Fenglan,Wang Gangli 2022, 52 (1):  69-76.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.011 Abstract ( 351 )   HTML ( 79 )   PDF (1075KB) ( 341 )   In this study, the developmental trends of spray-sunscreen cosmetics in China were analyzed. The international regulatory trends and regulatory requirements in the Europe Union, the United States, Australia and Korea were reviewed, and the technical key points were analyzed and discussed in detail, such as ingredients and production, physical and chemical testing, toxicological testing, efficacy testing, product safety assessment, application method and labeling management. A series of administrative suggestions for supervision are put forward. The fine management of spray sunscreen cosmetics under supervision science is summarized and prospected. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Properties and development trend of commonly used cosmetic powder for improving skin feeling Xue Hui,Yang Panpan,Lv Xuyang,Han Dan,Chen Jinlong,Jiang Ligang 2022, 52 (1):  77-83.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.012 Abstract ( 810 )   HTML ( 50 )   PDF (1035KB) ( 634 )   With the vigorous development of color cosmetics, physical powder has been more and more widely used because it can adjust the spread, absorption, skin adhesion, texture, and fade the visual focus of cosmetics. It is applied more and more widely in all fields, covering skin care, sunscreen, make up, and is paid more and more attention by beauty brands. In this paper, silica, talcum powder, mica powder, polymethyl methacrylate, polymethylsilsesquioxane, silicon elastomer powder, nylon powder, polyurethane powder and starch were briefly introduced. The surface morphology, particle size, oil absorption value and skin feeling’s characteristics of the above powders were summarized, and the application status of skin feeling improved powders was described. Silica, as a spherical powder with smooth skin and high hardness, can absorb oil and water; talc is a layered structure with a certain covering power and strong adhesion; mica is flake structure with outstanding skin adhesion and luster; polymethylmethacrylate is softer than silica and can selectively absorb sebum; polymethylsesimiloxane is a matte spherical powder with uniform particle size distribution; silicon elastomer powder is a spherical powder with strong oil absorption, good soft coking effect; nylon’s hardness is lower than polymethylmethacrylate and its skin feel is soft; polyurethane’s hardness is lower than nylon and it has strong elasticity and cushion feeling; starch has strong smoothness and can reduce the greasy feeling. Then the characteristics of composite powder and traditional powder are compared. With the continuous development of the market, the additional performance of composite powder can better meet the higher requirements of modern cosmetics in skin feeling and efficacy. Finally, the development trend of improved skin feeling powder was predicted. The experience of composite powder is more refined, and the pertinence is stronger. When choosing the skin feeling improved powders, it is not only necessary to comprehensively consider the surface morphology, particle size, oil absorption value and skin feeling characteristics of the powder, but also the multi-functional composite powder will play an increasingly important role in future. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Analytical methods and testing

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Determination of five phenolics compounds in whitening cosmetics by gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry Xiao Zhaojing,Tong Lanyan,Li Genrong,Dai Zhenghua,Zhou Zhaoxu,Yu Wenqin 2022, 52 (1):  84-90.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.013 Abstract ( 438 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (1716KB) ( 380 )   A method based on gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry （GC-MS/MS） was developed for the analysis of 5 phenolics compounds （phenol, hydroquineone, resorcinol, 4-butylresorciol, phenylethyl resorciol） in cosmetics. The phenolics compounds were extracted from cosmetics by supersonic extraction with 0.03 mol/L potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, purified by HLB solid phase extraction column, and analyzed via GC-MS/MS after filtration with organic filtration membrane （0.22 μm）. Separation was performed on a SH-Rtx-1701MS chromatographic column （30 m×0.25 mm×0.25 μm） by GC-MS/MS with an electrospray ionization （EI） source in the MRM mode. The external standard method was used for quantitative determination. The 5 phenolics compounds can be analyzed within 10 min under the optimum conditions, and it exhibits a good linearity with the standard correlation coefficients （R2） of not less than 0.999 in their respective concentration ranges of 5-200 μg/L. The limited of determination （LODs） are 1.5-3.0 μg/L and the limits of quantitation （LOQs） are 5.0-10.0 μg/L, respectively. The recoveries at three standards are 73.5%-111.8%, and the relative standard deviations （RSDs） are between 1.0% and 11.1% （n=6）. The proposed method is accurate, reliable, simple and convenient, and is suitable for determination of phenol whitening active components in cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Determination of acrylamide residue in baby cosmetics by HPLC-MS/MS Shao Fangxian,Li Geng,Chen Minhui 2022, 52 (1):  91-97.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.014 Abstract ( 278 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (1065KB) ( 330 )   To establish a liquid-liquid extraction HPLC-MS/MS method for the identification and quantification of acrylamide in three cosmetics matrixes. The cosmetics were dissolved in dichloromethane and the acrylamide was extracted with 0.1% formic acid. The extracted solution was separated on an ACE EXCEL 3 C18-AR （100×4.6 mm, 3 μm） chromatographic column with a mixture of 0.1% formic acid and acetonitrile as mobile phase for isocratic elution and detected with a triple quadrupole mass analyzer using ESI with positive ionization. Ions was monitored in the multiple reaction mode. The acrylamide was identified with relative retention time and ion abundance ratio, and quantified by internal standard method. The established method showed a good linearity in the mass concentration range of 2.5-2 500 μg/L with a LOQ of 0.025 mg/kg for acrylamide in three kinds of cosmetics matrix. The LOD of oil and emulsion matrix were 0.005 mg/kg, and the LOD of cream-like matrix was 0.008 mg/kg. The extraction recovery and precision were 86.9%-113.5% and 0.6%-10.4%, respectively. The established liquid-liquid extraction HPLC-MS/MS method is proved to be accurate and sensitive, and can be applied to determine acrylamide in different cosmetic products. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Determination of the content of ectoine in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography Tang Yuping,Wang Yanqi,Li Huiliang 2022, 52 (1):  98-102.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.015 Abstract ( 1346 )   HTML ( 40 )   PDF (1190KB) ( 605 )   A method for the determination of ectoine in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography （HPLC） was established. Agilent Poroshell 120 EC-C18 column （100 mm×3.0 mm, 2.7 μm）was used for sample analysis. Methanol and 40 mmol/L sodium dihydrogen phosphate-10 mmol/L sodium 1-heptanesulfonate solution （adjusted pH to 3.0 by phoshporic acid） were used as mobile phases for gradient elution, with a flow rate of 0.8 mL/min. The temperature of the column was 30 ℃. Samples were quantitated by diode array detector at 210 nm with external standard method. Result shows that the standard working curve of ectoine has good linear relationship in the range of 5-800 mg/L. The limit of detection and quantitation is 0.3 and 1.0 mg/L, respectively. The method has the advantages of high separation efficiency, short analysis time, and solvent cost saving. It solves the problem of ectoine retaining on C18 chromatography column. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Simultaneous determination of 5 restricted dyes in hair dyeing cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography Yang Danmei,Shi Xinghong,Luo Jinmei,Fu Qiumei,Qiu Yingheng,Wu Xiaoou,Wang Xiaowei 2022, 52 (1):  103-108.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.016 Abstract ( 252 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (1106KB) ( 255 )   A high performance liquid chromatography （HPLC） method for the determination of 5 restricted dyes in hair dyeing cosmetics was established. The sample was extracted and filtered, separated by an Agilent ZORBAX SB-C18 column （250 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm）, and gradient elution with methanol as mobile phase A and 5 mmol/L ammonium acetate solution as mobile phase B. The elution was performed at a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min and the column temperature was set at 30 ℃. The analysis was done using photo-diode array detector. Standard curve method was used for quantification. The results show that the linear correlation coefficients of the five restricted dyes are all greater than 0.999. The average recoveries at three spiked levels of the five restricted dyes are in the range of 92.5%-106.0% with RSDs of 0.5%-4.1%. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics