珍珠灵芝复配物美白功效与机理初步研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.02.009

Abstract

Abstract:

The literature reported that both pearl and Ganoderma lucidum had whitening effects, and both of them had products in cosmetics field, but the compound of pearl and Ganoderma lucidum was seldom reported. The purpose of this article was to study the advantages of the compound of pearl extract and Ganoderma lucidum extract in the development of whitening cosmetics. The whitening effects of Ganoderma atrum （mushroom） extract, pearl extract and their compound extracts were evaluated by in vitro tyrosinase and B16 cell model. The effects on tyrosinase activity in vitro, B16 cell viability, relative melanin content in B16 cells, expression level of tyrosinase （TYR） and tyrosinase-related protein 1（TRP1） mRNA were studied. The results of B16 cell viability show that Ganoderma atrum （mushroom） extract, pearl extract and their compound extracts have no cytotoxicity, and they can be used to B16 cells to next step. The results of tyrosinase activity and relative melanin content in B16 cells show that 1% Ganoderma atrum （mushroom） extract, 2% pearl extract and the compound extract can significantly inhibit tyrosinase activity （P<0.05） and reduce melanin content in B16 cells（P<0.05）. Inhibition rate of tyrosinase activity of the compound extract reaches 32.87%, and inhibition rate of melanin synthesis of the compound extract reaches 68.27%. Compared the compound extract with Ganoderma atrum （mushroom） extract and pearl extract, the compound extract has better effect of reducing the melanin content in B16 cells （P<0.05）. The results of the mRNA expression levels of tyrosinase （TYR） and tyrosinase-related protein 1（TRP1） show that the group of the compound extract can significantly reduce mRNA expression levels of TYR and TRP1 （P<0.05）, while single groups can only significantly reduce TYR mRNA expression levels. TRP1 can regulate the production of eumelanin, which is a species of melanin. The results show that the compound extract has better effect on inhibiting the formation of eumelanin, indicating that 2% pearl extract combined with 1% Ganoderma atrum （mushroom） extract have better effect on inhibiting the formation of melanin and it is related with its significant reduction of TRP1 mRNA expression. The compound extract has potential to develop as a cosmetic efficacy additive into whitening cosmetics.

Key words: pearl extract, whitening, melanin, B16 cell

CLC Number:

TQ658

Jin Jiaying,Chen Lu,Wang Xinzhi,Liu Rui,Wu Hao. Whitening efficacy and mechanism study of compound of Ganoderma atrum （mushroom） extract and pearl extract[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2022, 52(2): 166-171.

Figures/Tables 7

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References 16

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	φ（黑灵芝提取物）/%				φ（珍珠提取物）/%
	1	0.25	0.062 5		2	0.5	0.125
酪氨酸酶活性抑制率/%	26.47±4.99	10.80±2.83	0.93±3.94		11.78±2.63	-0.70±4.40	-1.06±5.46

	φ（黑灵芝提取物）/%				φ（珍珠提取物）/%
	1	0.25	0.062 5		2	0.5	0.125
细胞存活率/%	177.24±11.40	139.47±9.12	105.54±9.83		115.47±7.38	114.72.±6.05	102.12±14.68

	熊果苷	φ（黑灵芝提取物）/%				φ（珍珠提取物）/%
	熊果苷	1	0.25	0.062 5		2	0.5	0.125
相对黑色素含量/%	44.89±1.64**	49.68±3.32*	73.68±2.96	94.38±5.12		56.07±5.52*	77.97±1.97	104.24±4.00

复配物配比		酪氨酸酶抑制率/%	细胞存活率/%	相对黑色素含量/%
黑灵芝提取物/%	珍珠提取物/%	酪氨酸酶抑制率/%	细胞存活率/%	相对黑色素含量/%
0.062 5	0.125	-2.13±7.32	95.50±7.71	86.48±6.02
0.062 5	0.5	-0.54±5.61	90.80±9.67	81.75±4.45
0.062 5	2	0.98±6.91	124.52±8.56	53.45±4.36
0.25	0.125	1.09±0.41	133.93±11.46	57.04±2.13
0.25	0.5	9.91±1.49	126.55±12.16	49.76±7.02
0.25	2	9.33±2.56	112.91±8.75	39.56±2.73**
1	0.125	15.67±6.09*	180.99±15.18	38.38±1.21**
1	0.5	24.56±5.19*	140.84±15.17	34.92±2.33**
1	2	32.87±2.59*	183.82±16.24	31.73±0.54**

Whitening efficacy and mechanism study of compound of Ganoderma atrum （mushroom） extract and pearl extract

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组分名称	待测液/μL	L-DOPA/μL	磷酸盐缓冲溶液/μL	酪氨酸酶/μL	总量/μL
1	50	50	50	50	200
2	50	50	100	0	200
3	0	50	100	50	200
4	0	50	150	0	200