复合眼霜改善眼周早期老化症状的评估研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.04.011

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

评估含薰衣草花提取物、二肽-4、抗坏血酸四异棕榈酸酯、齿叶乳香树脂提取物、葡糖基橙皮苷、生育酚烟酸酯、芽孢杆菌发酵产物和咖啡因的眼霜对改善眼周早期衰老症状的人体功效。31名有轻中度黑眼圈、眼周皱纹和眼袋的27~45岁中国女性参加了研究，在眼周涂抹眼霜，每天两次，持续4周。通过非侵入式仪器、皮肤科医生评估以及志愿者自我评估，对使用产品前后的眼周皮肤进行功效评价。结果显示，局部使用眼霜能提亮肤色、改善黑眼圈、眼袋和细纹。使用2周后，黑眼圈区域的黑色素指数、红斑指数、皮肤肤色，眼袋体积和眼周皱纹参数均有了明显的改善，并持续至4周后。皮肤科医生评估、志愿者自评与仪器客观数据具有良好的相关性和一致性。该研究介绍了一种基于仪器定量测量和主观评估的综合评价方法，用于评估黑眼圈和眼袋的改善情况，以期为开发眼周护肤配方提供有价值的思路。

关键词: 眼周老化, 眼袋, 黑眼圈, 细纹, 仪器评估

Abstract:

This study aimed to assess the human efficacy of an eye cream formulated with Lavandula angustifolia （lavender） flower extract, dipeptide-4, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Boswellia serrata resin extract, glucosyl hesperidin, tocopheryl nicotinate, bacillus ferment and caffeine for treating early aging symptoms around the eyes. A total of 31 Chinese women aged 27 to 45 years with noticeable dark circles, periorbital wrinkles, and eye bags participated in the study. They applied the eye cream around the eyes twice daily for four weeks. Evaluation of periorbital skin before and after product usage was conducted through non-invasive instrumentation, dermatologist assessment, and subject self-assessment. The results show that partial use of eye cream can significantly brighten skin color, and improve dark circles, eye bags, and fine lines. After 2 weeks of use, there is a significant improvement in the melanin index, erythema index, skin color, eye bag volume, and periorbital wrinkle parameters, which continue to improve up to 4 weeks. It is worth noting that the subjective evaluations by dermatologists and volunteers show good correlation and consistency with the instrument data. This study presents a comprehensive evaluation method based on quantitative instrument measurements and subjective assessments, providing valuable insights for developing eye area skincare formulations.

Key words: periorbital aging, eye bags, dark circles, fine lines, instrumental evaluation

中图分类号:

TQ658

叶迎, 叶芳, 魏晓岚, 李亚男. 复合眼霜改善眼周早期老化症状的评估研究[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2025, 55(4): 487-494.

Ying Ye, Fang Ye, Xiaolan Wei, Yanan Li. Efficacy evaluation of a compound eye cream for early aging symptoms in the periorbital area[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2025, 55(4): 487-494.

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	测量参数	测量仪器	测量原理
黑眼圈	黑色素指数MI值、红斑指数EI值	Mexameter^? MX18	基于光谱吸收的原理（RGB），通过测定特定波长的光照在皮肤上后的反射量来测量皮肤中黑色素指数和红斑指数
	皮肤亮度L^*值、肤色ITA°值	Skin-Colorimeter CL400	基于CIE，L^a^b^*色度系统原理，皮肤反射光被探头内部的XYZ传感器接收，通过CIEXYZ系统来进行数学计算，进而评价皮肤颜色
	光泽度	Skin-Glossymeter GL200	基于光线对皮肤的反射光来测量皮肤光泽
皮肤弹性皮肤厚度	R2值	Cutometer^? Dual MPA 580	基于吸力和拉伸原理，通过非接触式的光学测试系统测得皮肤吸进的深度来反映皮肤弹性
皮肤弹性皮肤厚度	皮肤厚度	Ultrascan UC22	基于超声波，可以穿透皮肤，并根据现有的组织结构以不同的方式反射
眼周皱纹	皱纹数量皱纹面积皱纹Ra	Primos CR	基于数字显微条纹投影，具有正弦曲线密度的条纹光被投影到皮肤上。通过测试条纹光的位置变化和所有图像的灰度值，获得数字三维图像
眼袋	眼袋体积	Primos CR

	0周	2周				4周
	均值	均值	变化率/%	有效率/%	P	均值	变化率/%	有效率/%	P
MI	165.0±34.9	158.0±32.6	-4.5	71	0.030	154.0±33.2	-7.1	84	<0.001
EI	351.0±64.8	328.0±58.8	-6.5	81	<0.001	321.0±62.3	-8.5	74	<0.001
L^*	57.4±2.7	58.1±2.8	1.2	77	0.003	58.2±2.7	1.4	74	0.005
ITA°	24.2±8.4	26.1±8.2	7.8	74	0.008	26.0±8.1	7.6	77	0.024
光泽度	7.45±1.1	8.16±1.2	9.5	81	<0.001	8.0±1.4	7.3	71	0.005

	0周	2周				4周
	均值	均值	变化率/%	有效率/%	P	均值	变化率/%	有效率/%	P
皱纹数量	2.58±1.1	2.29±1.1	-11.3	29	0.020	2.06±1.0	-20.0	39	<0.001
皱纹面积	28.60±18.4	24.50±18.0	-14.3	81	<0.001	23.30±17.5	-18.5	81	<0.001
皱纹Ra	24.20±5.5	20.90±4.9	-13.9	87	0.006	20.00±4.1	-17.4	94	<0.001

	0周	2周				4周
	均值	均值	变化率/%	有效率/%	P	均值	变化率/%	有效率/%	P
皱纹数量	2.84±1.3	2.42±1.1	-14.8	32	0.002	2.29±1.2	-19.3	45	<0.001
皱纹面积	27.80±12.7	23.70±12.6	-15.1	77	<0.001	22.80±12.0	-18.1	84	<0.001
皱纹Ra	19.40±4.4	17.90±3.7	-7.9	77	<0.001	17.10±4.0	-12.0	77	<0.001

相关系数	黑眼圈						眼袋
相关系数	MI	EI	L^*	ITA°	光泽度	志愿者自评	体积	志愿者自评
皮肤科医生评估	0.604（P<0.001）	0.269（P=0.005）	-0.346（P<0.001）	-0.343（P<0.001）	-0.323（P<0.001）	0.327（P<0.001）	0.200（P=0.027）	0.363（P<0.001）
志愿者自评	0.224（P=0.016）	0.324（P<0.001）	-0.302（P=0.002）	-0.314（P=0.001）	-0.274（P=0.004）	—	0.184（P=0.039）	—