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日用化学工业(中英文) ›› 2023, Vol. 53 ›› Issue (5): 560-566.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.010

• 专论与综述 • 上一篇    下一篇

化妆品控油功效评价方法研究进展

李思玥1,韩蕊2,刘琦3,李岳秦3,赵华1,*()   

  1. 1.北京工商大学 化学与材料工程学院 化妆品系,北京 100048
    2.中国香精香料化妆品工业协会,北京 100079
    3.北京颐唯实检测技术有限公司,北京 100097
  • 收稿日期:2022-05-30 修回日期:2023-04-28 出版日期:2023-05-22 发布日期:2023-05-22

Research progress on evaluation methods of oil control efficacy of cosmetics

Li Siyue1,Han Rui2,Liu Qi3,Li Yueqin3,Zhao Hua1,*()   

  1. 1. Department of Cosmetics, College of Chemistry and Materials Engineering, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100048, China
    2. China Association of Flavor and Cosmetic Industries, Beijing 100079, China
    3. Beijing Yiweishi Testing Technology Co, Ltd, Beijing 100097, China
  • Received:2022-05-30 Revised:2023-04-28 Online:2023-05-22 Published:2023-05-22
  • Contact: * E-mail: zhaoh@btub.edu.cn.

摘要:

油性肤质人群颇受皮肤油腻的困扰,如易发生粉刺、毛孔粗大、皮肤粗糙、皮肤油腻、痤疮与脂溢性皮炎等问题。皮脂分泌受多种因素影响,控油机制复杂,化妆品控油功效需要进行多层面多维度的全面科学的评价。《化妆品分类规则和分类目录》将控油功效释义为“有助于减缓施用部位皮脂分泌和沉积,或使施用部位出油现象不明显”。《化妆品监督管理条例》要求化妆品的功效宣称应当有充分的科学依据。文章从皮脂分泌的基本机理入手,阐述了化妆品控油功效宣称的国内外法规要求、控油化妆品作用机制、化妆品控油功效评价方法和研究进展,并对更全面的化妆品控油功效评价体系的建立提出了展望。

关键词: 化妆品, 功效评价, 控油

Abstract:

Oily skin can cause a variety of skin problems, and in severe cases can even lead to acne, seborrheic dermatitis and other skin diseases. People with oily skin are often troubled by greasy skin. Sebaceous secretion is affected by many factors, and the oil control mechanism of cosmetics is complex. Therefore, the oil control efficacy of cosmetics requires a comprehensive and scientific evaluation at multiple layers and dimensions. The Classification Rules and Catalogue of Cosmetics defines the oil control effect as “helping to slow down the secretion and deposition of sebum at the application site, or making the oil secretion at the application site not obvious”. The Cosmetics Supervision and Administration Regulations require that cosmetic efficacy claims should have sufficient scientific basis. In this paper, starting with the basic mechanism of sebum secretion, the requirements of domestic and foreign laws and regulations, the mechanism of oil control cosmetics, the evaluation methods and research progress of oil control efficacy of cosmetics are described, and the establishment of a more comprehensive evaluation system of oil control efficacy of cosmetics is prospected.

Key words: cosmetics, efficacy evaluation, oil control

中图分类号: 

  • TQ658