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2023年, 第53卷, 第5期　刊出日期：2023-05-22 上一期    下一期

基础研究

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板栗壳色素在染发剂中的应用 Application of chestnut shell pigment in hair dyes 朱婷, 沈齐若男, 徐玉娟, 李春美 2023 (5):  493-502.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.001 摘要 ( 230 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF(1926KB) ( 144 )   采用急性经皮毒性试验和急性眼刺激/腐蚀性试验对所制备的板栗壳色素染发剂进行安全性评价；通过单因素实验优化了板栗壳色素的染发工艺，并进一步通过色差仪、质构仪、扫描电镜（SEM）和差式扫描量热仪（DSC）对其染后头发的褪色现象（洗涤和紫外辐照褪色）进行了分析。结果表明，板栗壳色素制成的染发剂实际无毒、无刺激。板栗壳色素优化后的较佳染发工艺条件为：板栗壳色素质量浓度0.15 g/mL，发色剂pH 8.5，FeCl3添加量10%（质量分数），采用先媒后染的染色方式在45 ℃下进行染色。染后头发经洗涤及UVA和UVB照射后色差（dE*）最大分别为6.348，3.340和3.280，褪色不明显。经洗涤及紫外线照射后，头发表面毛鳞片未存在明显的翘起现象。随洗涤温度的升高，头发α-角蛋白含量逐渐降低；而紫外线照射对染后头发α-角蛋白损伤较小。褪色现象均在可接受范围内，持久性可以达到要求。 The toxicity evaluation of the prepared chestnut shell pigment hair dye was conducted by using acute percutaneous toxicity test and acute eye irritation/corrosion test in this study. The hair dyeing process of the chestnut shell pigments was optimized by single-factor experiments and was further analyzed for fading phenomena （washing and UV irradiation fading） of the dyed hair by chromatography, texturizing, scanning electron microscopy （SEM） and differential scanning calorimetry （DSC）. The results indicate that hair dyes made from chestnut shell pigments are practically non-toxic and non-irritating. The hair dyeing conditions after optimization of the chestnut shell pigment are as follow: chestnut shell pigment concentration of 0.15 g/mL, colorants pH of 8.5, FeCl3 addition amount of 10%, dyeing temperature of 45 ℃, and dyeing method of pre-mordant method. The maximum dE* value of the dyed hair after washing is only 6.348, and the maximum dE* values after UV （UVA and UVB） irradiation are 3.340 and 3.280, with no significant change in fading or in the tensile strength of the hair. SEM results show that there is no obvious warping of hair surface scales after washing and UV irradiation of the dyed hair, so the dye is not easily washed off from the hair. DSC results indicate that the enthalpy of denaturation of the dyed hair decrease gradually with the increase of washing temperature, so the increase of temperature will reduce the α-keratin content of the dyed hair. And the enthalpy of denaturation of the dyed hair after UV irradiation is not significantly different from that of the hair without UV irradiation, indicating that UV irradiation damage to α-keratin in dyed hair is less. This paper presents a comprehensive evaluation of the hair-dyeing performance of chestnut shell pigments, aiming to provide a corresponding theoretical basis and technical support for the high-value application of chestnut shell waste, which is more conducive to guide and promote the development of chestnut industry. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

科技讲座

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头发与头皮护理的科学基础（Ⅴ）——头发光老化及其防护 Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care （Ⅴ）Hair photoaging and its protection 范加谊, 马铃, 陈殿松, 常宽, 王靖 2023 (5):  503-510.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.002 摘要 ( 342 )   HTML ( 31 )   PDF(2322KB) ( 342 )   皮肤防晒的概念已经深入消费者的内心，但头发的防晒对中国消费者来说仍是一个较新的概念。与皮肤一样，日常生活中的紫外线和可见光等辐射也会对头发造成损伤，在分子层面体现为头发中物质的降解（例如：蛋白质、氨基酸，脂质，黑色素等）。头发损伤会使其表观性质出现变化，导致头发出现梳理性下降、粗糙度和摩擦力上升、吸水性和溶胀增加、表面亲水性增强、力学性能下降、光泽度下降等不利现象。因此在护发产品中增加护理成分来防止光老化是十分必要的。本文分析了头发光老化的过程和其中的物质变化，并对光老化引起的头发问题及针对此问题的防护产品进行介绍。 The concept of skin sunscreen has been deeply embedded in the hearts of consumers, but hair sunscreen is still a relatively new concept for Chinese consumers. Just like skin, UV and visible light radiation in daily life will also cause damage to hair, which is reflected in the degradation of hair substances （such as proteins, amino acids, lipids, melanin, etc.） at the molecular level. Hair damage will cause changes in its apparent properties, resulting in decreased hair grooming, increased roughness and friction, increased water absorption and swelling, enhanced surface hydrophilicity, decreased mechanical properties, decreased glossiness and other adverse phenomena. Therefore, it is very necessary to add functional ingredients in hair care products to prevent photoaging. In this paper, the process of hair photoaging and its substance changes are analyzed, and the hair problems caused by photoaging and the protective products for this problem are introduced. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

开发与应用

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表面活性剂在活化氧漂体系去除纺织品有色污渍中的作用 Effects of surfactants on removing colored stains from textiles when using activated peroxide systems 付江鹏, 杜金梅, 苗大刚, 肖国威, 蒋阳, 许长海 2023 (5):  511-516.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.003 摘要 ( 172 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF(1201KB) ( 261 )   纺织品在使用过程中经常会沾染一些有色污渍，在家庭洗涤中使用普通洗涤配方很难将其有效去除。过氧化物经常被用于家庭洗涤中去除纺织品沾染的有色污渍，但需在较高温度下起作用。活化氧漂体系是通过向过氧化物溶液中加入漂白活化剂形成的漂白体系，能够在较低温度下将纺织品有色污渍有效去除。本文使用N-[4-（三乙基铵甲撑）苯酰基]己内酰胺氯化物（TBCC）和四乙酰乙二胺（TAED）为漂白活化剂构建活化氧漂体系，以十二烷基苯磺酸钠（SDBS）和十八烷基三甲基氯化铵（STAC）为表面活性剂，设计洗涤配方，研究其在室温近中性条件下去除纺织品有色污渍的性能。实验结果表明：表面活性剂自身不能有效去除纺织品有色污渍，但携带的离子电荷能够在一定程度上影响活化氧漂体系对纺织品有色污渍的去除性能，SDBS与TBCC活化氧漂体系组成的洗涤配方能够在室温近中性条件下有效去除纺织品上的有色污渍。 Textiles are often contaminated by coloring matters in daily use. It is difficult to remove these colored stains by using traditional household washing detergents. Peroxides can be used as bleaching agents to remove these colored stains from textiles, however, at relatively high temperatures. Activated peroxide systems are established by adding so-called bleach activators that can react with hydrogen peroxide released from peroxides to generate more kinetically active bleaching species that can break down colored stains at lower temperatures. In this paper, N-[4-（triethylammoniomethyl）benzoyl]caprolactam chloride （TBCC） and tetraacetylethylenediamine （TAED） were used as bleach activators to establish activated peroxide systems in which sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate （SDBS） and stearyltrimethylammoium chloride （STAC） were added. The formula was designed, aiming to remove colored stains from textiles at room temperature. Morin and coffee were used to simulate the colored stains on textiles. In near-neutral conditions at room temperature, it was found that surfactants themselves could not remove colored stains from textiles, but the ionic charges on these surfactants could interact with the activated peroxide systems and affect their performance on removing colored stains. The formula of activated peroxide system based on TBCC and SDBS was able to effectively remove colored stains from textiles at room temperature. This study might contribute to developing effective household washing formulations for cleaning textiles stained with colored substances. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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Ce改性MgO催化硬脂酸甘油三酯甘油解制备单甘酯的研究 Preparation of monoglyceride by glycerolysis of glyceryl tristearate catalyzed by Ce modified MgO 孔令鸟, 洪郑, 方银军 2023 (5):  517-522.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.004 摘要 ( 115 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF(1113KB) ( 169 )   为提高产品中单甘酯（简称MAGs）的含量，采用自制Ce改性MgO催化剂催化硬脂酸甘油三酯甘油解制备单甘酯。以氧化镁和硝酸铈为原料，采用水热合成法先制备MgO载体，再采用等体积浸渍法制备Ce改性MgO催化剂。设计了反应时间、反应温度、催化剂用量三因素三水平的正交试验，并考察了Ce的添加量对粗产品中单甘酯含量的影响。利用BET，XRD和CO2-TPD对催化剂进行表征。实验结果表明，在选定影响MAGs含量的三个试验因素中，反应温度显著性水平最高，当Ce添加量为0.3%，催化剂用量为0.5%（占甘油和硬脂酸甘油三酯总质量），甘油与硬脂酸甘油三酯摩尔比为2∶1，反应温度为220 ℃，反应时间为2 h时，粗产品中单甘酯含量达42.0%。表征结果表明，Ce含量小于0.3%时，Ce的添加对催化剂比表面积、孔容、孔径影响不大，但催化剂碱性增强，当Ce含量大于0.5%时，催化剂的比表面积、孔容、孔径和碱性均明显下降。 To improve the content of monoglycerides （MAGs） in the product, the preparation of MAGs by glycerolysis of triglyceride catalyzed by Ce modified MgO catalysts was studied. MgO support was prepared by hydrothermal method with magnesium oxide as raw material, and Ce modified MgO catalyst was prepared by constant-volume impregnation method with cerium nitrate and MgO support as raw materials. The orthogonal test was designed, in which reaction time, reaction temperature and catalyst dosage were optimized. The effect of Ce addition on the content of MAGs in crude products was also investigated. The structure of Ce modified MgO catalysts was analyzed by BET, XRD and CO2-TPD. The experimental results show that the reaction temperature has the highest significance level among the three selected factors affecting the content of MAGs. When the amount of Ce is 0.3%, catalyst dosage is 0.5% （of the total mass of glycerol and glyceryl tristearate）, the molar ratio of glycerol to glyceryl tristearate is 2∶1, the reaction temperature is 220 ℃, and the reaction time is 2 h, the content of MAGs is 42.0%. The characterization results show that, the addition of Ce has little effect on the specific surface area, pore volume and pore size of the catalyst when the Ce content is less than 0.3%, but the catalyst will be more alkaline. When the Ce content is more than 0.5%, the specific surface area, pore volume, pore size and alkalinity of the catalyst are significantly decreased. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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中药双向发酵液制备及其抗衰老、保湿、美白功效研究 Process optimization and anti-aging, moisturizing and whitening effects of traditional Chinese medicine bi-directional fermentation broth 郭芳钰, 韩婷婷, 王晓娜, 陈玉荣, 王晓梅, 杨素珍 2023 (5):  523-531.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.005 摘要 ( 291 )   HTML ( 25 )   PDF(1543KB) ( 687 )   通过对中国灵芝、铁皮石斛、黄精、晚香玉进行双向发酵工艺优化，筛选制备出最优发酵液，利用不同质量分数中药双向发酵液对体外抑制蛋白质非酶糖基化、酪氨酸酶活性抑制、水通道蛋白Aquaporin3（AQP3）含量、2，2’-联氮-双-3-乙基苯并噻唑啉-6-磺酸（ABTS）自由基清除率、1，1-二苯基-2-三硝基苯肼（DPPH）自由基清除率、小鼠黑素B16-F10细胞黑色素含量进行测定。研究结果发现，中药双向发酵液能够显著抑制蛋白质非酶糖基化、酪氨酸酶活性、小鼠B16-F10细胞黑色素含量（P<0.05），并且能够显著清除DPPH和ABTS自由基，促进角质形成细胞AQP3蛋白表达（P<0.01），这为化妆品原料的开发提供了新的方向和数据依据。 In this study, the bi-directional fermentation process of Chinese Ganoderma lucidum, Dendrobium officinale, Polygonatum chinensis and Tuberose was optimized, and the optimal fermentation broth was prepared. Activity inhibition, Aquaporin3 （AQP3） content, 2, 2’-diazo-bis-3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid （ABTS） free radical scavenging rate, 1, 1-diphenyl-2-trinitrophenylhydrazine （DPPH） free radical scavenging rate and melanin content in mouse melanin B16-F10 cells were measured. The results of the study find that the bi-directional fermentation broth of traditional Chinese medicine can significantly inhibit protein non-enzymatic glycosylation, tyrosinase activity, and melanin content in mouse B16-F10 cells （P<0.05）. It can also significantly scavenge DPPH and ABTS free radicals, and upregulate AQP3 protein expression in keratinocytes （P<0.01）. Therefore, this paper concludes that the bi-directional fermentation broth of traditional Chinese medicine screened by optimizing the bi-directional fermentation process has a significant effect on inhibiting protein non-enzymatic glycosylation, tyrosinase activity and melanin content of mouse melanin B16-F10 cells, upregulating AQP3 protein expression, and scavenging ABTS free radicals and DPPH free radicals in vitro. It provides a new direction and basis for the development of cosmetic raw materials. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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硬脂醇甘草亭酸酯体外舒缓抗敏功效评价 Evaluation of in vitro soothing and anti-allergic effects of stearyl glycyrrhetinate 朱志贤, 陈国宝, 陈保华 2023 (5):  532-537.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.006 摘要 ( 323 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF(3241KB) ( 234 )   通过生物学体外实验手段对硬脂醇甘草亭酸酯（SG）进行抗敏舒缓功效评价研究。采用质量分数0.2%的阴离子表面活性剂十二烷基硫酸钠（Sodium lauryl sulfate，SLS）刺激3D表皮皮肤模型，构建体外皮肤损伤模型，通过检测硬脂醇甘草亭酸酯作用后皮肤模型的组织形态、促炎因子IL-1α、TNF-α和炎性介质PGE2含量的变化，评价其舒缓功效。结果表明硬脂醇甘草亭酸酯在0.01，0.5，1，2 mg/mL四个质量浓度条件下均可通过改善组织形态，抑制IL-1α，TNF-α和PGE2的分泌达到舒缓功效。且硬脂醇甘草亭酸酯在四个实验质量浓度条件下对IL-1α的下调效果显著优于0.1 mg/mL地塞米松。 Based on a SLS-induced 3D epidermal skin injury model （EpiKutis®）, the effect of stearyl glycyrrhetinate （SG） at 10 μg/mL, 500 μg/mL, 1 mg/mL, and 2 mg/mL was studied comparing with the control group. The tissue morphology is improved at the four mass concentrations and the secretion of IL-1α, TNF-α and PGE2 are significantly decreased. The final results show that the inhibition rates of IL-1α are 26.31%, 30.23%, 36.30%, and 52.55%, respectively. The inhibition rates of TNF-α are 11.50%, 22.47%, 25.71%, and 46.73%, respectively. The inhibition rates of PGE2 are 28.31%, 31.51%, 45.32%, and 57.28%, respectively. It is believed that SG achieves a soothing effect by improving tissue morphology and inhibiting the secretion of IL-1α, TNF-α and PGE2. And the down-regulation effect of SG on IL-1α is significantly better than the 15.20% inhibition rate of 100 μg/mL dexamethasone under the conditions of four experimental concentrations. In the test, SG shows excellent anti-inflammatory and soothing function. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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抗菌纤维的抑菌活性及其在面膜产品中的应用研究 Study on antibacterial activity of antibacterial fiber and its application in mask products 孔秋婵, 蒋佳欣, 夏高辉, 龚盛昭 2023 (5):  538-543.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.007 摘要 ( 173 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF(1058KB) ( 198 )   对抗菌纤维和多种抑菌成分的复配样品进行抑菌性能测试，并对比了季铵盐壳聚糖抗菌纤维与植物精油、传统防腐剂和防腐替代剂对细菌、酵母菌和霉菌的抑制效果，尝试将抗菌纤维和抑菌成分形成复配防腐方案。防腐测试结果表明：抗菌纤维与对羟基苯乙酮（0.1%-质量分数，下同），或丁香油（0.05%），或柠檬茶树油，以及蓝桉叶油复配，均能满足面膜产品的防腐需求。但是，抗菌纤维与羟苯甲酯复配有拮抗作用。其中，抗菌纤维与丁香油（0.05%）复配，抑菌效果最佳。抑菌纤维还能显著提升植物精油的抑菌效果，对丁香油的提升率达43.06%。 To reduce irritant and toxicity risk effectively caused by traditional cosmetics preservatives, chitosan quaternary ammonium salt-based antibacterial fiber combined with several various bacteriostatic ingredients was constructed to replace the traditional preservatives used in facial mask products, which obviously improved its broad-spectrum antibacterial ability. The antibacterial properties of antibacterial fiber combined with a variety of antibacterial components were tested. The antibacterial effects comparison among quaternary ammonium chitosan antibacterial fiber combined with plant essential oil, traditional preservatives, and antiseptic substitutes on bacteria, yeast and mold was conducted. The several antiseptic recipes include antibacterial fiber and different antibacterial components were proposed. Antibacterial test results show that the antibacterial fiber combined with hydroxyacetophenone （0.1%-mass fraction, the same below）, or Eugenia caryophyllus Thunb. oil （0.05%）, or Leptospermum petersonii FM. Bailey oil, or Eucalyptus globulus Labill. oil, can meet the antibacterial requirements of mask products. However, the antibacterial fiber combined with methylparaben has antagonistic effect. Among them, the combination of antibacterial fiber with Eugenia caryophyllus Thunb. oil（0.05%） has the best antibacterial effect. The antibacterial fiber can significantly improve the antibacterial effect, and the improvement rate of Eugenia caryophyllus Thunb. oil is 43.06%. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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酶水解法制备黄芪素及应用研究 Study on the preparation of Astragalus by enzymatic hydrolysis and its application 亓国锋, 李刚刚, 安晏 2023 (5):  544-550.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.008 摘要 ( 117 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF(1269KB) ( 133 )   探讨酶水解法制备黄芪素及其应用研究。以黄芪素的提取率为评价指标，采用酶水解法提取黄芪素，使用高效液相色谱仪（HPLC）进行测定。通过构建衰老模型小鼠，将酶水解法制备的黄芪素作用于衰老模型小鼠，观察衰老模型小鼠学习记忆能力及脑组织氧化水平检测。结果显示，酶水解法正交试验较优条件为：当料液比1∶10，提取次数3次，提取温度80 ℃，提取时间1 min时，黄芪素提取率最高。与对照组相比，黄芪素作用衰老模型小鼠后，能够显著改善其学习记忆能力（P<0.05）；经黄芪素处理后，衰老模型小鼠脑组织中超氧化物歧化酶（SOD）和过氧化氢酶（CAT）含量显著增加（P<0.05），而丙二醛（MDA）含量显著下降（P<0.05）。本研究中，通过优化黄芪素制备方法，并检测了黄芪素抗衰老能力，该研究为将来黄芪素的进一步开发和临床应用奠定了理论和实践基础。 This research investigated the preparation of astragalin by enzymatic hydrolysis method and its application. Using the extraction rate of Astragalus as the evaluation index, astragalin was extracted by enzymatic hydrolysis method and determined by using high performance liquid chromatography （HPLC）. By constructing aging model mice, the astragalin prepared by enzymatic hydrolysis method was applied to the aging model mice, and the learning and memory ability and the oxidation level of brain tissue of the aging model mice were observed. The results show that the orthogonal test of enzymatic hydrolysis method is superior when the material-liquid ratio is 1∶10, the number of extractions is 3 times, the extraction temperature is 80 ℃ and the extraction time is 1 min, with the highest extraction rate of Astragalus. Compared with the control group, astragalin significantly improves the learning and memory abilities of the aging model mice （P<0.05）. The contents of superoxide dismutase （SOD） and catalase （CAT） in the brain tissues of the aging model mice increase significantly after treatment with astragalin （P<0.05）, while the contents of malondialdehyde （MDA） decrease significantly （P<0.05）. In this study, by optimising the preparation method of Astragalus and testing the anti-ageing ability of Astragalus, the study lays the theoretical and practical foundation for the further development and clinical application of Astragalus in the future. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

专论与综述

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荧光纳米材料的研究进展 Research progress of fluorescent nanomaterials 李曦, Saule Aidarova, 殷夏, Miras Issakhov, 徐德荣, 康万利 2023 (5):  551-559.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.009 摘要 ( 207 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF(2569KB) ( 311 )   荧光纳米粒子（NPs）是过去十年研究和开发的主要焦点。与传统的荧光有机染料相比，荧光纳米颗粒具有独特的化学和光学特性，如更亮的荧光、更高的光稳定性和更高的生物相容性。此外，纳米颗粒还可以作为实现超分子组装的多价支架，因为它们的高表面体积比允许不同的空间域被功能化，这可以为实现不同的传感方案提供一个多功能的合成平台。本文综述了包括半导体NPs（量子点）、金属NPs、二氧化硅NPs等荧光纳米粒子近年来的研究进展，典型的例子展示了荧光纳米材料，包括半导体纳米晶体，金属纳米颗粒，硅基纳米材料是如何制造的。本文还讨论了荧光NPs在市场地位相关的挑战。 Fluorescent nanoparticles have been the focus of research and development in the past decade. Compared with traditional fluorescent organic dyes, fluorescent nanoparticles have unique chemical and optical properties, such as brighter fluorescence, higher light stability, and higher biocompatibility. In addition, nanoparticles （NPs） can also be used as multivalent scaffolds for supramolecular assembly, because their high surface-area-to-volume ratio allows different domains to be functionalized, which can provide a multifunctional synthesis platform for different sensing schemes. This paper reviews the research progress of fluorescent nanoparticles including semiconductor NPs （quantum dots）, metal NPs and silica NPs in recent years. Typical examples show how fluorescent nanomaterials, including semiconductor nanocrystals, metal nanoparticles and silicon-based nanomaterials, are manufactured. The challenges related to the market position of fluorescent NPs are also discussed. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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化妆品控油功效评价方法研究进展 Research progress on evaluation methods of oil control efficacy of cosmetics 李思玥, 韩蕊, 刘琦, 李岳秦, 赵华 2023 (5):  560-566.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.010 摘要 ( 465 )   HTML ( 45 )   PDF(1049KB) ( 599 )   油性肤质人群颇受皮肤油腻的困扰，如易发生粉刺、毛孔粗大、皮肤粗糙、皮肤油腻、痤疮与脂溢性皮炎等问题。皮脂分泌受多种因素影响，控油机制复杂，化妆品控油功效需要进行多层面多维度的全面科学的评价。《化妆品分类规则和分类目录》将控油功效释义为“有助于减缓施用部位皮脂分泌和沉积，或使施用部位出油现象不明显”。《化妆品监督管理条例》要求化妆品的功效宣称应当有充分的科学依据。文章从皮脂分泌的基本机理入手，阐述了化妆品控油功效宣称的国内外法规要求、控油化妆品作用机制、化妆品控油功效评价方法和研究进展，并对更全面的化妆品控油功效评价体系的建立提出了展望。 Oily skin can cause a variety of skin problems, and in severe cases can even lead to acne, seborrheic dermatitis and other skin diseases. People with oily skin are often troubled by greasy skin. Sebaceous secretion is affected by many factors, and the oil control mechanism of cosmetics is complex. Therefore, the oil control efficacy of cosmetics requires a comprehensive and scientific evaluation at multiple layers and dimensions. The Classification Rules and Catalogue of Cosmetics defines the oil control effect as “helping to slow down the secretion and deposition of sebum at the application site, or making the oil secretion at the application site not obvious”. The Cosmetics Supervision and Administration Regulations require that cosmetic efficacy claims should have sufficient scientific basis. In this paper, starting with the basic mechanism of sebum secretion, the requirements of domestic and foreign laws and regulations, the mechanism of oil control cosmetics, the evaluation methods and research progress of oil control efficacy of cosmetics are described, and the establishment of a more comprehensive evaluation system of oil control efficacy of cosmetics is prospected. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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常见口腔问题及其护理进展 Research progress on the oral problems and their nursing methods 童跃林, 吴越 2023 (5):  567-573.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.011 摘要 ( 188 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF(1352KB) ( 309 )   口腔是人体摄入外界食物的重要途径，其健康水平对于人体至关重要。缺乏正确的口腔护理会引发口腔溃疡、牙周病、龋齿、口腔异味等多种口腔问题，甚至影响糖尿病、心血管疾病、脑卒中、多器官炎症等系统性疾病。持续、有效的口腔护理措施可保持口腔清洁并预防多种口腔问题的发生。近年来，随着我国日化品市场的不断发展，人们对于口腔的护理意识愈发强烈，寻找安全、有效的口腔护理产品也越来越受到大批化妆品企业以及消费者的重点关注。文章从常见口腔问题的种类出发，分析了引发多种口腔问题的外界及人体自身影响因素，并对当前口腔护理的现状及天然提取物在口腔护理中的应用进行了综述，旨在为口腔护理产品提供参考依据。 The oral cavity is the initial path of the human digestive system, which is essential to people’s health. Lack of proper oral nursing leads to a variety of oral problems including oral ulcers, periodontal disease, dental caries, bad breath, etc. Oral problems not only negatively affect the normal quality of life, pronunciation, and personal appearance, but also affect systemic diseases such as diabetes, cardiovascular disease, stroke, and multi-organ inflammation. Oral problems are affected by the immune status of human body and various external stimuli such as tobacco and alcohol. Consistent and effective oral care can clean the mouth and prevent many oral problems. However, some active ingredients in traditional oral care products usually have many side effects. For example, chlorhexidine mouthwash, which is commonly used in oral nursing, has side effects such as allergic reactions and numbness of the tongue. In recent years, with the continuous development of daily chemical products, people’s awareness of oral care has become stronger and stronger, and the search for safe and effective oral care products has also received more and more attention from cosmetic companies and consumers. Herein, several common oral problems in daily life were introduced. The factors that could result in oral problems were reviewed, such as the oral microecology, aging, nutritional status, and other external substances. In addition, some existing nursing measures for oral problems were introduced. Many new natural actives with antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties were introduced, such as curcumin, hyaluronic acid, ergothioneine and epigallocatechin-3-gallate. Their possible effects in oral cavity were analyzed from multiple perspectives, such as inhibiting pathogenic bacteria, anti-inflammation, and promoting collagen production. The applications of natural extracts in oral nursing were reviewed, aiming to provide a reference for oral care products. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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地域性文化元素在日化产品视觉形象设计中的应用研究 Research on the application of regional cultural elements in the visual image design of daily chemical products 王坤, 白兴易, 杨瑞琨 2023 (5):  574-580.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.012 摘要 ( 154 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF(2675KB) ( 188 )   在国产日化品牌与国外品牌的市场竞争日趋激烈、国内日化品牌视觉形象设计严重同质化、产品视觉形象缺乏特色的背景下，探索地域性文化元素与日化产品视觉形象之间的内在联系，将两者通过设计语言联系起来，形成特色日化产品视觉形象，提升日化产品品牌文化性与辨识度，增加产品视觉美感。文章了解并分析了日化产品与地域文化的关联性，运用情感三层次理论，深度挖掘地域性文化元素，找出文化元素的有形层、行为层、无形层内容，并建立地域性文化元素库，提取相关元素进行归纳演绎或重构，形成新的设计元素，将其按照一定的设计原则恰当地融入日化产品视觉形象设计中。通过理论研究以及实践证明，可以将地域性文化元素通过提取与转化并与日化产品有机结合，设计出符合现代消费者审美认知以及能反映产品特性的日化产品，同时实践证明：地域性文化元素的融入可以提升产品辨识度，提升品牌文化内涵，增强产品竞争力。 Nowadays the market competition between domestic daily chemical brands and foreign brands is becoming increasingly fierce, the visual image design of domestic daily chemical brands is seriously homogenized, and the visual image of products lacks characteristics. It is of great importance to explore the internal connection between regional cultural elements and the visual image of daily chemical products, and connect the two through design language to form a visual image of distinctive daily chemical products. Understanding and analyzing the correlation between daily chemical products and regional culture, using the three-level theory of emotion, deeply digging regional cultural elements, finding out the tangible, behavioral and intangible content of cultural elements, establishing a regional cultural element library, and extracting relevant elements are deducted or reconstructed to form new design elements, which are properly integrated into the visual image design of daily chemical products according to certain design principles. Through theoretical research and practice, it is possible to organically combine regional cultural elements with daily chemical products through extraction and refinement to design daily chemical products that meet the aesthetic cognition of modern consumers and the natural and organic psychological needs of product raw materials. At the same time, practice has proved that the integration of regional cultural elements can improve product recognition, enhance brand cultural connotation, and enhance product competitiveness. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

分析与检测

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气相色谱-质谱法测定化妆品中19种香精香料 Determination of 19 flavors and fragrances in cosmetics by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry 王玮, 邢玉瑾, 张雪 2023 (5):  581-587.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.013 摘要 ( 164 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF(1106KB) ( 176 )   建立了同时测定化妆品中19种香精香料的气相色谱质谱（GC-MS）方法。化妆品样品经甲醇提取，涡旋超声并稀释定容后，以Supelco SLB-5 ms毛细管色谱柱（30 m×250 μm×0. 25 μm）为分离色谱柱进行分析，以电子轰击（EI）源，SIM模式进行质谱监测，外标法定量。19种香精香料在相应的线性范围内线性关系良好，相关系数均大于0.998 0，实验选取了2个不同类型样品进行回收率和精密度的方法学验证实验，19种香精香料在基质①中的加标回收率为88.7%~103.6%，相对标准偏差（RSD，n=6）为1.7%~4.9%；在基质②中的加标回收率为88.4%~102.3%，RSD（n=6）为1.2%~3.9%。实验数据符合相关法律法规及标准要求。该方法实用性较好，定性、定量结果准确、高效，可以用于各类化妆品中香精香料的分析检测，为其提供强有力的技术支撑。 In this study, methanol was used as the extraction solvent, and gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry （GC-MS） was used to detect and analyze 19 kinds of flavors and fragrances by SLB-5 ms capillary column （30 m×250 μm×0.25 μm） within 35 minutes. The selected ion monitoring mode （SIM） scanning measurement was used for separation, and the external standard method was used for quantification. The 19 flavors and fragrances have a good linear relationship within the corresponding linear range, and the correlation coefficients are all greater than 0.998 0. The experimental data meet the requirements of the relevant laws, regulations and standards. At the same time, on the basis of “Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics” （2015 edition）, this study has optimized the types of chromatographic columns, mobile phase composition, and sample extraction solvent selection for the determination of 19 flavors and fragrances in cosmetics. Compared with the original method, the stability of the tested substance is better, and the experimental operation is more convenient and efficient. The experimental results show that the research method is fast, simple, reproducible and durable, and the results are accurate and reliable. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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高效液相色谱-质谱法测定健美类化妆品中咖啡因等33种成分 Determination of 33 kinds of components such as caffeine in bodybuilding products by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry 姜成君, 吴志珊, 殷帅, 黄海萍 2023 (5):  588-595.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.014 摘要 ( 150 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(1241KB) ( 131 )   建立高效液相色谱-质谱法筛查化妆品中咖啡因等33种成分的分析方法。样品经甲醇溶解提取，高速离心后，经0.22 μm滤膜过滤，采用Atlantis™dC18（2.1 mm×100 mm×3 μm）色谱柱分离，0.1%甲酸水溶液-乙腈为流动相进行梯度洗脱，柱温为30 ℃，流速0.3 mL/min，基质加标标准曲线测定咖啡因等33种成分。结果表明，咖啡因等33种成分在相应的质量浓度范围内线性关系良好，相关系数（r）均大于0.99；回收率为80.7%~118.2%，相对标准偏差（RSDs）均小于10%，检出限为0.003~0.015 μg/g。该方法操作简单、快速，适用于健美类化妆品中咖啡因等33种成分的检测。 Bodybuilding products are also known as slimming products or anti-cellulite products, produced body shaping and bodybuilding. Through massage and hot compresses, the active substances of cosmetics are absorbed into the body, which help to decompose subcutaneous lipolysis, accelerate subcutaneous fat metabolism, and reduce edema. Due to the special way of use, large use area, and long stay time, the potential safety risks have been paid more and more attention by the consumers. There is a high risk that it may add prohibited substances. Currently, there is little literature on the determination of slimming drugs in bodybuilding products. Therefore, it is necessary to establish a method for the determination of components in these products. In this paper, an effective method of high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry （HPLC-MS/MS） was established for the determination of 33 kinds of components such as caffeine in bodybuilding products. The samples were extracted using methanol, and filtered through a 0.22 μm filtering membrane after centrifugation with high speed. The analysis was performed on an Atlantis™dC18（2.1 mm×100 mm×3 μm）at 30 ℃ with 0.1% formic acid-acetonitrile as the mobile phase by gradient elution at the flow rate of 0.3 mL/min. The matrix curve was quantified by external standard method. The results show that the method has good linearity with correlation coefficients exceeding 0.99. The recoveries at different concentrations are between 80.7%-118.2%, and the relative standard deviations （RSDs） are less than 10%. The limit of detections （LODs） are 0.003-0.015 μg/g. The method proves to be simple, rapid, suitable for the determination of caffeine and others in bodybuilding products. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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液质联用法同时测定化妆品中辛酰羟肟酸、对羟基苯乙酮、p-茴香酸的含量 Simultaneous determination of caprylhydroxamic acid, 4-hydroxyacetophenone and p-anisic acid in cosmetics by HPLC-MS 李泽夏琼, 邱红燕, 马莹, 刘丹, 赵丽 2023 (5):  596-601.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.015 摘要 ( 141 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF(1097KB) ( 156 )   采用高效液相色谱-三重四极杆质谱联用仪同时检测化妆品中辛酰羟肟酸、对羟基苯乙酮、p-茴香酸的含量，以0.1%乙酸-乙腈（含0.1%甲酸）为流动相，采用梯度洗脱的方式，根据保留时间和特征离子对的相对丰度比进行定性，以特征离子的峰面积进行定量，用标准曲线法计算三种物质的含量。结果显示，水、乳、霜三种基质中辛酰羟肟酸、对羟基苯乙酮、p-茴香酸分别在10~2 000，2~2 000和5~2 000 ng/mL时，与峰面积呈现良好的线性关系，相关系数（r）>0.999。该方法测定化妆品中辛酰羟肟酸、对羟基苯乙酮、p-茴香酸于48 h内稳定，回收率在87.37%~111.56%之间，精密度的平均相对标准偏差（RSD）分别为1.4%，1.8%和1.6%。该检测方法高效、方便且定性定量准确，适用于不同基质化妆品中辛酰羟肟酸、对羟基苯乙酮、p-茴香酸的定量定性分析。 The content of caprylhydroxamic acid, 4-hydroxyacetophenone and p-anisic acid in cosmetics was simultaneously determined by HPLC-MS. The mobile phase was 0.1% acetic acid in acetonitrile （containing 0.1% formic acid） by using the gradient elution method. The qualitative analysis of these components was based on the retention time and the relative abundance ratio of the characteristic ion pairs. The peak area of the characteristic ions was used for quantitative analysis. The standard curve method was used to calculate the content of the three substances. The results showed that, in liquid matrix, lotion matrix and cream matrix, caprylhydroxamic acid, 4-hydroxyacetophenone and p-anisic acid showed good linear relationships in the range of 10-2 000, 2-2 000 and 5-2 000 ng/mL, respectively, while the correlation coefficients （r） were>0.999. This method was applied to determine the caprylhydroxamic acid, 4-hydroxyacetophenone and p-anisic acid in cosmetics, the results of which were stable within 48 hours. The recovery rates were between 87.37% and 111.56%. The average relative standard deviation （RSD） of the precision research was 1.4%, 1.8% and 1.6%, respectively. This method is efficient, convenient, and accurate in qualitative and quantitative analysis. It is suitable for quantitative and qualitative analysis of caprylhydroxamic acid, 4-hydroxyacetophenone and p-anisic acid in cosmetics of different matrices. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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超级微波消解-ICP-MS法测定洗发类化妆品中37种元素 Determination of 37 elements in shampoo cosmetics by super microwave digestion-inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry 尹伟成, 王彦超, 徐少康, 吴志珊, 唐桂鹏, 张伟清 2023 (5):  602-608.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.016 摘要 ( 123 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF(1044KB) ( 118 )   采用超级微波消解-电感耦合等离子体质谱（ICP-MS）建立了洗发类化妆品中37种元素含量的测定分析方法。样品经超级微波消解仪消解后，采用铼（Re）、铑（Rh）作为内标元素，采用ICP-MS同时测定洗发类化妆品中铅（Pb）、砷（As）、汞（Hg）、镉（Cd）、锂（Li）、铍（Be）、钪（Sc）、钒（V）、钴（Co）、镍（Ni）、铬（Cr）、锰（Mn）、铜（Cu）、铷（Rb）、锶（Sr）、镨（Pr）、钕（Nd）、镝（Dy）、银（Ag）、铟（In）、铯（Cs）、钡（Ba）、铊（Tl）、铋（Bi）、钍（Th）、镧（La）、铈（Ce）、铒（Er）、铕（Eu）、钆（Gd）、钬（Ho）、镥（Lu）、钐（Sm）、铽（Tb）、铥（Tm）、钇（Y）、镱（Yb）37种元素的含量。该方法在一定浓度范围内线性关系良好，线性相关系数均≥0.995 0，低、中、高浓度加标回收率范围为87.1%~113.5%，RSD为0.72%~5.00%（n=6）。该方法专属性强、灵敏度高、可快速、准确测定洗发用品中37种金属元素。 A method for determination of 37 elements in shampoo cosmetics was established by using super microwave digestion-inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry （ICP-MS）. After the samples were digested on a super microwave digester, Re and Rh were applied as internal standard elements, and the concentrations of 37 elements including Pb, As, Hg, Cd, Li, Be, Sc, V, Co, Ni, Cr, Mn, Cu, Rb, Sr, Pr, Nd, Dy, Ag, In, Cs, Ba, Tl, Bi, Th, La, Ce, Er, Eu, Gd, Ho, Lu, Sm, Tb, Tm, Y and Yb were simultaneously determined by ICP-MS. The method has a good linear relationship within a certain concentration range, and the linear correlation coefficients are all≥0.995. The recovery rates of low, medium and high spiked concentrations are 87.1%-113.5%, and the RSD is 0.72%-5.00% （n=6）. This method has strong specificity and high sensitivity, which can rapidly and accurately determine 37 metal elements in shampoo products. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标