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2023年, 第53卷, 第4期　刊出日期：2023-04-22 上一期    下一期

基础研究

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疏水缔合聚合物HAWP与芥酸酰胺丙基烯丙基溴化铵复合体系流变和界面性能研究 Study on rheological and interfacial properties of a synergistic mixture of hydrophobically associating polymer HAWP and erucamidopropyl allyl ammonium bromide 杨斌 2023 (4):  365-372.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.001 摘要 ( 176 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF(1872KB) ( 210 )   针对疏水缔合聚合物增黏和界面活性提高能力有限的问题，疏水缔合聚合物复合增效体系被提出，基于疏水缔合聚合物HAWP与阳离子表面活性剂芥酸酰胺丙基烯丙基溴化铵（EDAA）复配构筑了疏水缔合聚合物复合增效体系EDHA，首先借助扫描电镜、流变仪以及环糊精包合法研究了疏水缔合聚合物复合增效体系的增黏机理，然后从流变性和界面性能两方面探究了pH值、NaCl质量浓度和温度对复合增效体系流变性和降低界面张力能力的影响。研究结果表明复合增效体系通过疏水缔合作用与静电吸引作用协同增效。复合增效体系的黏度和黏弹性随着pH值增加先增大后减小，界面张力先减小后增大；复合增效体系的黏度、黏弹性随着NaCl质量浓度的增大逐渐变小，界面张力先上升后下降。随着温度的增加，复合增效体系的黏度和黏弹性逐渐变小，界面张力逐渐增大。 In view of the limited abilities of hydrophobically associating polymers to increase viscosity and improve interfacial activity, a synergistic system composed of a hydrophobically associating polymer and a cationic surfactant was proposed. In this work, the hydrophobically associating polymer HAWP and the cationic surfactant erucamidopropyl allyl ammonium bromide （EDAA） were mixed to construct the synergistic system （EDHA）. The viscosity-increasing mechanism of the synergistic system was studied by scanning electron microscopy, rheometer and cyclodextrin inclusion method. The effects of pH, NaCl mass concentration and temperature on the rheological properties and the ability to reduce interfacial tension were also explored. The results showed that the synergism of the mixed system was based on hydrophobic association and electrostatic attraction. With the increase of pH, the viscosity and viscoelasticity of the synergistic system first increased and then decreased, and the interfacial tension first decreased and then increased. The viscosity and viscoelasticity of the synergistic system were decreased with the increase of NaCl mass concentration, and the interfacial tension was first increased and then decreased. The viscosity and viscoelasticity of the system were decreased and the interfacial tension was increased with the increase of temperature. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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高温非均质油藏聚合物凝胶调驱实验研究 Experimental study on polymer gel profile control and flooding in high-temperature heterogeneous reservoirs 廖建军, 李华斌, 邓金玭, 何刚, 刘思思, 张肖 2023 (4):  373-381.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.002 摘要 ( 135 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF(2033KB) ( 275 )   华北油田高温非均质油藏经过长期开采后，含水率高且非均质性进一步增强，而常规化学驱油措施控水增油效果较差。针对这一问题，通过室内体系筛选、物理模拟与理论分析相结合，研究了聚合物凝胶的抗高温性能、调剖效果以及控水增油能力。结果表明：筛选出的凝胶体系具有优异的抗高温性能与黏弹性模量，完全成胶后黏度最高可达4 371.2 mPa·s，经30天高温老化后，黏度保留率为90.5%，弹性模量和黏性模量分别为10.4和1.3 Pa。同时该体系具有较强的封堵能力，在一定渗透率级差范围内，该体系的剖面改善能力与控水增油能力随着渗透率级差的增大而增大。当渗透率级差从2.13增加到8.16时，调剖后剖面改善率从58%增加到92.8%；当渗透率级差从2.06增加到8.08时，调驱后采收率增幅从10.2%增加到19.5%。 After long-term exploitation of the high-temperature heterogeneous reservoirs in North China Oilfield, the water content becomes high and the heterogeneity is further enhanced, while conventional chemical flooding measures have poor effects in water control and enhancement of oil production. To solve this problem, the high-temperature resistance and the effects in profile control, water control and oil increase for polymer gels were studied through the combination of indoor screening, physical simulation, and theoretical analysis. The results showed that, the selected gel system had excellent high-temperature resistance and viscoelasticity, and the maximum viscosity was 4 371.2 mPa·s after complete gelation. After 30 days of high temperature aging, the viscosity retention rate was 90.5%, and the elastic modulus and viscous modulus were 10.4 and 1.3 Pa, respectively. The system had strong plugging ability. In a certain range of permeability contrast, the abilities of profile improvement, water control and enhancement of oil production of the system were increased with the increase of permeability contrast. When the permeability contrast was increased from 2.13 to 8.16, the profile improvement rate after profile control was increased from 58% to 92.8%; when the permeability contrast was increased from 2.06 to 8.08, the recovery rate after profile control and flooding was increased from 10.2% to 19.5%. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

科技讲座

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头发与头皮护理的科学基础（Ⅳ）—— 蛋白多肽类护发原料的研究现状 Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care （Ⅳ） Development of protein and polypeptide ingredients for hair care 范加谊, 马铃, 陈殿松, 常宽, 王靖 2023 (4):  382-389.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.003 摘要 ( 368 )   HTML ( 38 )   PDF(1963KB) ( 479 )   随着发用化妆品的发展，许多新的原料被开发和应用，蛋白多肽类的原料越来越多的被应用在多种发用化妆品中，例如洗发水、护发素、发膜等。在发用化妆品中加入某一些蛋白多肽类原料可以有效的提升头发的机械强度、柔顺度、疏水性等，因此对日常生活中的光老化和烫发时头发的还原以及染发时头发的漂白等化学损伤等具有修复效果。本文对蛋白多肽类护发原料的来源、提取方法、护发机理、护发效果、研究进展等方面进行了介绍，为蛋白多肽类护发原料的开发和研究提供一些参考。 With the development of hair cosmetics, many new raw materials have been developed and widely applied. More and more raw materials such as proteins and polypeptides have been applied in a variety of hair cosmetics, including shampoos, hair conditioners, hair masks, etc. Adding some proteins or polypeptides into hair cosmetics can effectively improve the mechanical strength, flexibility and hydrophobicity of hair, so they have repair effects on photoaging and chemical damage such as hair reduction during perming and hair bleaching during coloring. In this review, the research progress of hair care materials based on proteins and polypeptides was introduced, including the sources, extraction methods, hair care mechanism, hair care effect, etc. This review could provide a guideline for the research and development of hair care materials based on proteins and polypeptides. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

开发与应用

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吡罗克酮乙醇胺盐的蛋白酶抑制作用及与硫酸锌复配的防脱发功效研究 Novel role of piroctone olamine on protease inhibition in vitro, and reduction in human hair shedding in combination of zinc sulfate in vivo Ranjit Kaur Bhogal, 陈旭斌, David Messenger, 宫哲慧, 孙佳凝, 皮瑛瑛, 顾佳音 2023 (4):  390-397.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.004 摘要 ( 410 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF(1293KB) ( 257 )   蛋白水解机制导致棒状末端发根和毛囊之间的细胞粘附分解是头发脱落的最终步骤。在休止期晚期和脱落期，蛋白酶活性的增加导致大量脱发。利用EnzChekTM蛋白酶试剂盒，基于荧光方法检测了吡罗克酮乙醇胺盐在体外对蛋白酶的抑制作用；并对含吡罗克酮乙醇胺盐和硫酸锌的洗发水进行了两组含受脱发困扰的男性和女性参与者的临床防脱发功效测试。结果表明，吡罗克酮乙醇胺盐可以有效抑制蛋白酶的活性，0.5%吡罗克酮乙醇胺盐在体外可使胰蛋白酶的活性减少最高达53%。硫酸锌可以增强低浓度吡罗克酮乙醇胺盐对胰蛋白酶活性的抑制作用。两组临床测试显示，使用含0.5%吡罗克酮乙醇胺盐和0.018%硫酸锌的洗发水4周，8周和12周后，头发密度较使用前均有显著性增加，12周后分别增加2.7根/cm2和7.5根/cm2；较空白对照组，在8周和12周后均有显著性提高。由此提示了吡罗克酮乙醇胺盐对于棒状毛发的保留作用和含吡罗克酮乙醇胺盐和硫酸锌洗发水的防脱发功效。 The process leading to the final step of hair shedding is reported to be driven by proteolytic activity and contributes to the detachment of club hair. During late telogen and exogen, increased protease activity may lead to excessive and unwanted hair loss. Materials that can correct proteolytic activity could be beneficial in reducing excessive hair loss. Piroctone olamine was assessed for the protease inhibition efficacy in vitro by deploying a direct fluorescence-based assay for detecting metallo-, serine, acid and sulfhydryl proteases. The assay detects protease activity by the means of a labelled pH-insensitive fluorescent dye where an increase in fluorescence is proportional to protease activity. The assay allows the assessment of materials that may inhibit protease activity of the target enzymes. Since serine proteases have been shown to play a role in the exogen phase of the hair growth cycle, trypsin a known serine protease was used as the target enzyme. Piroctone olamine was found to inhibit trypsin protease activity in a dose-dependent manner. The inhibitory effect was boosted with the addition zinc sulfate. The combination of zinc sulfate with piroctone olamine was formulated into a shampoo base for the evaluation of hair density efficacy in vivo. Male and female participants with hair loss concerns treated their scalp with a shampoo wash （treatment or placebo） 3 times per week for 12 weeks. Hair density was assessed at baseline followed by 4 weekly intervals. The results showed a significant increase in hair density following shampoo treatment versus baseline and versus placebo suggesting the combination of piroctone olamine and zinc sulfate plays a role in retaining hairs and consequently reducing hair fall. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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莲子心总黄酮多元醇提取工艺筛选及其性能研究 Study on screening extraction process of total flavonoids from Nelumbinis Plumula by polyols and its properties 郝晴, 吴二敏, 毕永贤, 刘金俊, 孔德承, 成志伟 2023 (4):  398-407.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.005 摘要 ( 166 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF(2434KB) ( 155 )   莲子心作为一种药食同源的植物，极具开发潜力。该研究通过单因素实验和响应面Box-Behnken设计实验筛选并优化莲子心总黄酮的多元醇超声辅助提取工艺，对该工艺获得的莲子心提取物进行了安全性及体外抗氧化、抑菌和抗敏活性的测定。结果表明，在提取溶剂为1,2-己二醇，溶剂体积分数87%，料液比3.6:100（g:mL），提取时间39 min的条件下，莲子心总黄酮得率为1.80%±0.08%，且其质量浓度在1.2 g/L以下时无刺激性，对DPPH和ABTS自由基的半数抑制质量浓度分别为0.76和0.69 g/L，对大肠杆菌、金黄色葡萄球菌和铜绿假单胞菌的最小抑菌质量浓度分别为0.56，1.12和0.14 g/L；且其对透明质酸酶的半数抑制质量浓度为0.35 g/L。该研究提供了一种简单、安全、高效的莲子心总黄酮提取工艺，在保证较高总黄酮得率的基础上兼顾其提取物的生物活性，为莲子心资源的开发提供了理论依据。 Nelumbinis Plumula is a kind of medicinal and edible plant with great development potential. Single factor test and response surface test were used to screen and optimize the ultrasonic-assisted extraction process of total flavonoids from Nelumbinis Plumula by polyols, and the safety, in vitro antioxidant, antibacterial and anti-allergy activities of Nelumbinis Plumula extract were determined. Results show that under the conditions of extraction solvent 1,2-hexanediol, solvent volume fraction 87%, material-liquid ratio 3.6:100 （g:mL）, and extraction time 39 min, the yield of total flavonoids is 1.80%±0.08%. At 1.2 g/L, the Nelumbinis Plumula extract has no irritation, the half maximal inhibitory concentration of DPPH radical and ABTS radical is 0.76 and 0.69 g/L, respectively, and the minimum inhibitory concentration for Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa are 0.56, 1.12 and 0.14 g/L, respectively. Moreover, the half maximal inhibitory concentration of hyaluronidase is 0.35 g/L. This study provides an easy, safe and efficient method for extracting total flavonoids from Nelumbinis Plumula, which ensures the biological activity of the extract and a high yield of total flavonoids, and provides a theoretical basis for the development of Nelumbinis Plumula. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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一例日沟维肠杆菌污染化妆品情况分析 Analysis of a case of cosmetics contaminated by Enterobacter gergoviae 黄依雯, 张珊珊, 王星月, 沈海英 2023 (4):  408-413.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.006 摘要 ( 139 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF(1507KB) ( 139 )   按照《化妆品安全技术规范》（2015年版）对1批化妆品中菌落总数和6批化妆品中防腐剂进行检测；用VITEK MS微生物质谱检测系统和16s rRNA基因测序对化妆品中的污染菌进行鉴定；每月转接一次观察日沟维肠杆菌置常温条件下存活情况；用日沟维肠杆菌对5批次含羟苯甲酯的化妆品进行防腐剂挑战试验。结果显示，1批菌落总数超标的化妆品，其污染菌鉴定为日沟维肠杆菌，该批化妆品使用的防腐剂含量为0.15%羟苯甲酯。日沟维肠杆菌在常温营养条件较好的情况下可存活10个月以上。羟苯甲酯含量为0.2%的3批化妆品和羟苯甲酯含量为0.1%+双咪唑烷基脲1批化妆品通过了日沟维肠杆菌防腐剂挑战试验。羟苯甲酯含量为0.1%的化妆品未通过日沟维肠杆菌防腐剂挑战试验。日沟维肠杆菌对化妆品中常用防腐剂羟苯甲酯具有耐药性，选择该类防腐剂时推荐使用日沟维肠杆菌进行防腐剂挑战试验判定其适用性。 Enterobacter gergoviae is a conditional pathogen, which can cause urinary system, respiratory tract and blood infection in the immunocompromised population. It widely exists in water, soil and vegetables. Enterobacter gergoviae contamination is common in cosmetics, which is mainly related to its resistance to the most widely used cosmetic preservative methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate. In this paper, a batch of cosmetics contaminated by Enterobacter gergoviae were analyzed and studied in order to provide reference for the cosmetics enterprises to select appropriate preservatives. Aerobic bacterial was counted in 1 batch of cosmetics and the preservatives in 6 batches of cosmetics were tested according to the 2015 version of “Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics”. The contaminated bacteria in cosmetics were identified by VITEK MS and 16s rRNA gene sequencing, and transferred every month to observe the survival of Enterobacter gergoviae at room temperature. Enterobacter gergoviae was used to conduct preservative challenge test on 5 batches of cosmetics containing methylparaben. The results show that a batch of cosmetics with aerobic bacterial count exceeding the standard is identified as Enterobacter gergoviae, and the preservative methylparaben used in this batch of cosmetics is 0.15%. Enterobacter gergoviae can survive for more than 10 months under the condition of good nutrition at room temperature. Three batches of cosmetics with the methylparaben concentration of 0.2% and a batch of cosmetics with the methylparaben concentration of 0.1% + bisimidazolidinyl urea pass the preservative challenge test of Enterobacter gergoviae. Cosmetics with the methylparaben concentration of 0.1% fail the preservative challenge test of Enterobacter gergoviae. Enterobacter gergoviae is resistant to methylparaben, a commonly used preservative in cosmetics. When selecting this type of preservative, it is recommended to use Enterobacter gergoviae for preservative challenge test to determine its applicability. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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上海地区310名女性皮肤生理参数和皮肤菌群随年龄的变化特征 Age-related changes in skin physiological parameters and skin bacterial microbiome among 310 Shanghai women 马来记, 张欢, 陈慧丹, 杨素珍, 李燕, 邵丽 2023 (4):  414-422.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.007 摘要 ( 250 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF(2818KB) ( 227 )   为了解皮肤生理参数、皮肤菌群随着年龄增长的变化规律，于2021年7~8月，在上海某社区随机筛选符合条件的310名18~60岁健康女性受试者，采用非创伤性皮肤检测方法测试多项皮肤生理参数，并采用16S rRNA高通量测序分析面部皮肤菌群。结果显示，随着年龄增加，皮脂含量和经皮水分散失（TEWL）减少，而皮肤角质层含水量受年龄影响，不同年龄段呈现不同的变化规律。肤色（ITA°）随年龄增长越来越深，皮肤弹性随年龄呈下降趋势，特别是25岁之后显著下降（P<0.001）。随着年龄的增加，Shannon指数整体呈现上升趋势，说明面部皮肤细菌的物种多样性增加。物种组成分析表明，在门水平上，放线菌门（Actinobacteria）总体呈下降趋势，而变形菌门（Proteobacteria）总体呈上升趋势，相应地在属水平上，丙酸杆菌属（Cutibacterium）的丰度明显下降，而链球菌属（Streptococcus）和棒状杆菌属（Pseudomonas）的丰度总体呈上升趋势。Spearman相关性分析表明，皮肤生理参数和皮肤细菌丰度之间存在紧密关联，年龄是影响皮肤生理参数和菌群丰度变化的重要因素。皮肤生理参数和菌群特征呈现出与年龄相关的变化规律。在某种程度上，这些特征可以被视为年龄标志，研究结果可为化妆品产品研究和开发提供参考依据。 Understanding the changes in the skin physiological parameters, skin microbiome and their associated relationship during aging remains largely unknown. To better understand this phenomenon, we investigated 310 healthy females aged 18-60 years randomly selected from a community in Shanghai from July to August 2021. Multiple skin physiological parameters were measured by non-invasive instrumental methods, and the facial skin microbiome was analyzed by 16S rRNA sequencing. The results show that with the increase of age, skin sebum content and transepidermal water loss （TEWL） decrease, while the skin hydration is affected by age and in different age groups it presents different changing rules. Additionally, the skin color （ITA°） becomes darker, and the skin elasticity decreases, especially significantly appearing after the age of 25 years old （P<0.001）. The Shannon index is found to increase, indicating that the skin bacteria diversity increases with age. The analysis of species composition indicates that the abundance of Actinobacteria shows a decreasing trend, while Proteobacteria shows an increasing trend with age. Accordingly, at the genus level, the abundance of Cutibacterium decreases significantly, while the abundance of Streptococcus and Pseudomonas shows an increasing trend with age. Furthermore, spearman correlation analysis reveals strong correlations between the skin physiological parameters and the microbiota. Notably, age is an important factor affecting the changes of skin physiological parameters and skin bacteria. In conclusion, these results show that the skin physiological parameters and microbiota characteristics of females undergoes age-associated alterations. To some extent, these characteristics can be regarded as age markers, and these results can guide the development of cosmetics. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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三种豆类植物多肽的制备工艺及其活性研究 The preparation process of three leguminous plant peptides and their activities 张慧荣, 郭苗苗, 陈晨, 潘乾印, 张影, 李丽 2023 (4):  423-429.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.008 摘要 ( 178 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF(1605KB) ( 174 )   通过碱溶酸沉和超声辅助法提取绿豆（Vigna radiata）、刀豆（Canavalia gladiata）和赤小豆（Vigna umbellata）蛋白；通过酶解法制备多肽，对比单、双酶和蛋白酶添加量对多肽的影响，分别选择三种豆类多肽最佳的制备工艺；通过DPPH和ABTS自由基清除实验考察三种豆类多肽的抗氧化能力；通过COX-2抑制率实验考察三种豆类多肽的抗炎能力。结果表明从刀豆、绿豆和赤小豆中提取得到的总蛋白含量分别为89.82%，79.93%和75.76%。通过木瓜蛋白酶（8 000 U/g）和中性蛋白酶（8 000 U/g）分步水解制得绿豆和赤小豆多肽；通过木瓜蛋白酶（8 000 U/g）和酸性蛋白酶（8 000 U/g）分步水解得到刀豆多肽。赤小豆、绿豆和刀豆多肽样品中总多肽的含量分别为69.27%，53.31%和51.18%。同时，绿豆、刀豆和赤小豆对DPPH自由基清除的IC50值分别为1.92，0.92和0.60 g/L；对ABTS自由基清除的IC50值分别为0.22，0.20和0.17 g/L，即抗氧化能力强弱依次为赤小豆多肽>刀豆多肽>绿豆多肽。赤小豆、刀豆和绿豆多肽对COX-2均具有良好的抑制效果，在2.0 g/L条件下的COX-2抑制率分别为95.23%，92.65%和64.23%。 In this study, the proteins of mung bean （Vigna radiata）, sword bean （Canavalia gladiate） and rice bean （Vigna umbellata） were extracted by alkaline solubilization, acid deposition and ultrasound-assisted methods. The anti-oxidant ability of the three legume peptides was investigated by DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging assays, and the anti-inflammatory ability of the three legume peptides was investigated by COX-2 inhibition assay. The results show that the total protein content obtained from C. gladiate, V. radiata and V. umbellata is 89.82%, 79.93% and 75.76%, respectively. V. radiata and V. umbellata peptides are produced by stepwise hydrolysis with papain （8 000 U/g） and neutral protease （8 000 U/g）. C. gladiate peptides are obtained by stepwise hydrolysis with papain （8 000 U/g） and acidic protease （8 000 U/g）. The total peptide content of the peptide samples from V. umbellata, V. radiata and C. gladiate are 69.27%, 53.31% and 51.18%, respectively. The IC50 values for DPPH radical scavenging are 1.92, 0.92 and 0.60 g/L for V. radiata, C. gladiate and V. umbellate, respectively, and 0.22, 0.20 and 0.17 g/L for ABTS radical scavenging, respectively. The anti-oxidant capacity ranks as V. umbellata peptide>C. gladiate peptide> V. radiata peptide in order of strength. The peptides of V. umbellata, C. gladiate and V. radiata all show good inhibition of COX-2, with the COX-2 inhibition rates of 95.23%, 92.65% and 64.23% at 2.0 g/L, respectively. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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逆境胁迫处理后山楂叶总黄酮含量变化及对心肌缺血性大鼠分子机制的研究 Change in total flavonoid content of hawthorn leaves after adverse stress treatment and the molecular mechanism on myocardial ischemia in rats 任洁洁 2023 (4):  430-436.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.009 摘要 ( 126 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF(1352KB) ( 367 )   探讨不同品种山楂叶总黄酮含量变化及其作用于心肌缺血性大鼠的分子机制。选取长势良好，大小一致的不同品种山楂树幼苗，通过有机溶剂萃取法提取山楂叶总黄酮，使用HPLC及紫外分光光度计法测定其含量。通过紫外分光光度计测定其抗氧化能力；再将山楂叶总黄酮作用于心肌缺血性模型大鼠，通过心电图法、生化指标检测以及Real-Time PCR技术确定其作用分子机制。结果显示：“大金星”山楂叶总黄酮含量及其抗氧化能力显著高于其它品种；山楂叶总黄酮能够显著改善急性心肌缺血性大鼠的心电图ST段状态、生化指标以及血流动力学参数等；其能够显著影响心肌缺血性大鼠心肌CaSR、c-fos以及Cyt-C基因的表达。4种山楂叶品种中，“大金星”山楂叶总黄酮含量及抗氧化能力显著高于其它组，且能够显著改善心肌缺血性大鼠的状态，为将来遴选优质生药来源提供了理论基础和实践基础。 The total flavonoids in different varieties of hawthorn leaves were determined and the molecular mechanism of the effects on myocardial ischemia in rats was discussed. The seedlings of different varieties of hawthorn trees with good growth and uniform size were selected, and the total flavonoids of hawthorn leaves were extracted by organic solvent extraction. The content was determined by HPLC and ultraviolet spectrophotometry. The antioxidant capacity was determined by ultraviolet spectrophotometry. The total flavonoids were then applied to myocardial ischemic model rats, and the molecular mechanism was determined by electrocardiography, biochemical index detection and Real-Time PCR technology. The results showed that, the content of total flavonoids in the hawthorn leaves of “Dajinxing” and the antioxidant capacity thereof were significantly higher than other varieties; the total flavonoids in hawthorn leaves could significantly improve the ST segment status, biochemical indexes and hemodynamic parameters of ECG in acute myocardial ischemic rats; total flavonoids of hawthorn leaves could significantly affect the expression of CaSR, c-fos and Cyt-C genes in myocardial ischemic rats. In conclusion, among the four varieties of hawthorn leaves, the content of total flavonoids and antioxidant capacity of “Dajinxing” hawthorn leaves were significantly higher than those of other groups, which could significantly improve the state of myocardial ischemic rats, providing a theoretical basis for the selection of high-quality crude drug sources in future. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

专论与综述

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木犀草素的生理作用及制剂研究进展 Research progress on physiological action and preparations of luteolin 詹鑫, 徐帆, 祝钧, 何一凡, 裴晓静 2023 (4):  437-444.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.010 摘要 ( 336 )   HTML ( 23 )   PDF(1437KB) ( 199 )   木犀草素作为一种天然的黄酮类化合物，是一种可用于化妆品的功效原料，在皮肤上具有抗氧化、抗炎、延缓衰老以及美白作用，但存在溶解性差以及生物利用度低的问题，导致其在化妆品中的应用受到了限制。通过固体分散体、环糊精包合物、磷脂复合物、固体脂质纳米粒、纳米结构脂质体、纳米乳、聚合物胶束等制剂技术可以提高其溶解度和生物利用度，进而发挥良好作用。综述了木犀草素在皮肤上的抗氧化、抗炎、延缓衰老和美白作用通路，以及木犀草素应用于不同制剂技术的研究进展，用以改善木犀草素的溶解度和生物利用度差的问题，同时为进一步促进木犀草素制剂研究及化妆品产品应用提供参考。 Luteolin is a natural flavonoid compound and can be used as cosmetic raw material. Studies have shown that luteolin can provide hydrogen atoms to react with free radicals to generate stable compounds and enhance the activity of antioxidant enzymes to achieve antioxidant effects. It can also inhibit the expression of inflammatory cytokines and inflammatory mediators by affecting multiple inflammatory signaling pathways. It can also delay aging by inhibiting kinases that affect skin aging and whiten the skin by inhibiting enzymes involved in the synthesis of melanin. However, the solubility and bioavailability of luteolin are poor since it is only slightly soluble both in hot water and in cold water. Its solubility and bioavailability can be improved by preparation technologies such as solid dispersion, cyclodextrin inclusion, phospholipid complexation, formation of solid lipid nanoparticles, nanostructured liposomes, nanomilk and polymer micelles, etc. However, some preparation technologies have the problems of high cost, short shelf life, instability, etc., and further research on the action mechanism of luteolin and related preparations is needed. The physiological action mechanisms of luteolin on the skin, as well as the research progress of its various preparation techniques, were reviewed, which could provide a reference for further preparation research and cosmetic product application. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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植物甾醇（酯）的研究与应用前景 Research and application prospect of phytosterols （esters） 王小康, 陈文, 张太军, 尹志刚, 古玉龙, 李涛 2023 (4):  445-452.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.011 摘要 ( 406 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF(1148KB) ( 347 )   针对植物甾醇（酯）最新的一些研究进展进行总结和归纳，包括它的合成方法、功能介绍、相关的物理化学修饰手段和应用，重点是在化妆品中的应用。植物甾醇酯的合成方法主要有化学催化法、离子液体催化法、无溶剂直接酯化法、生物酶催化法等，其中生物酶催化法是目前学术研究的热点，在工业生产中预计会逐渐取代化学催化法成为主流方法。同时植物甾醇类物质具有降低胆固醇含量、抗氧化、抗癌、抗炎、修复皮肤屏障、抑菌等功能，以及酯化、乳化、微胶囊、纳米载体、乙氧基化和聚乙二醇修饰等各种修饰手段。这些条件共同推动了它在化妆品行业被广泛应用，同时其在食品保健、医药、农业和畜牧业也有较好的发展。其中植物甾醇油酸酯发展格外迅速。 The latest research progress of phytosterols （esters） has been summarized, including synthetic methods, functions, related physicochemical modification and applications, with emphasis on the applications in cosmetics. The synthetic methods of phytosterol esters mainly include chemical catalytic method, ionic liquid catalytic method, solvent-free direct esterification and biological enzyme catalytic method. Biological enzyme catalytic method is the current focus of academic research, and it is expected to gradually replace chemical catalytic method in industrial production to become the mainstream method. Meanwhile, phytosterols have the functions of reducing cholesterol, antioxidation, anti-cancer, anti-inflammation, skin barrier repair and anti-bacteria. Phytosterols have various modification means such as esterification, emulsification, microencapsulation, nano-carrier, ethoxylation and polyethylene glycol modification. Therefore, they have been widely used in cosmetic industry, as well as in food, health care, pharmaceuticals, agriculture and livestock industry. Particularly, phytosterol oleate is developing rapidly. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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薰衣草精油微胶囊研究进展及其在纺织上的应用 Research progress on lavender essential oil microcapsules and application in textiles 郝林聪, 夏鑫 2023 (4):  453-458.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.012 摘要 ( 192 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(1223KB) ( 263 )   薰衣草精油作为具有芳香治疗功能的物质，在日化、食品、医疗等领域有广泛应用，但在生活中的长效利用受到限制。微胶囊法作为一种包合技术实现对薰衣草精油的封装，同时利用纺织技术将微胶囊与纺织品结合，实现精油在纺织品上的持久稳定释放，营造芳香生活环境。结合国内外研究现状，本文对薰衣草精油微胶囊的制备技术以及芳香纺织品的构建方法进行阐述，并对研究方向和前景进行展望。 Lavender essential oil has aromatherapy effects. It can be widely used to improve people’s health in the daily chemical, foodstuff, medical et.al. However, due to the strong volatility of lavender essential oil, its long-term use in life is limited. The microencapsulation method realizes the encapsulation of lavender essential oil, which reduces the influence of physical factors such as temperature and light on the essential oil from a microscopic perspective. β-cyclodextrin realizes the complexation with lavender essential oil from the molecular. Chitosan and Sodium Alginate can prepare microcapsules of different sizes by changing the reaction conditions. Textiles is a medium for fragrance, and nano-textile technology and multi-scale fiber mixing technology combine microcapsules with textiles. Long-lasting and stable release of essential oil on textiles can be achieved by adjusting the structure of micro- and nano-fibers, or using fiber or fabric finishing techniques, which forms a lasting and stable aroma effect in the living environment. Combined with the current research status at home and abroad, the preparation technology of lavender essential oil microcapsules and the construction method of aromatic textiles are expounded. The research direction and prospects are prospected, which is significance for broadening the application of lavender essential oil and developing textile products with aromatic functions. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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皮肤微生态和益生菌抗光老化研究进展 The research progress of skin microecology and probiotic for skin anti-photoaging 陈漪汶, 文霞, 黄健聪, 张淑瑶, 郑雅莉, 谢小保 2023 (4):  459-464.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.013 摘要 ( 251 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF(1054KB) ( 256 )   皮肤微生态是构成皮肤屏障的重要组成部分，其皮肤微生物的正常代谢活动能抵御外界刺激，因此维持皮肤微生物稳态是化妆品领域的重点研究对象。系统介绍了紫外线与皮肤及其微生物的关系，并表明长期暴露于紫外线辐射会扰乱皮肤微生物稳态从而导致光损伤、老化等问题。综述了国内外抗光老化研究进展，证实了皮肤微生物、益生菌等可以阻挡或逆转紫外线的负面影响，恢复皮肤稳态。旨在对开发微生物抗光老化方法提供理论支持和研究思路，以期推动中国化妆品的健康可持续发展。 Skin microecology is an important component of the skin barrier, and the normal metabolic activity of skin microorganisms can resist external stimuli. Therefore, maintaining skin microbial homeostasis is a key research object in the field of cosmetics. This article systematically introduces the relationship between ultraviolet radiation and skin as well as its microorganisms, and indicates that long-term exposure to ultraviolet radiation can disrupt the homeostasis of skin microorganisms, leading to light damage, aging, and other issues. This article reviews the research progress of anti-photoaging at home and abroad, and confirms that skin microorganisms and probiotics can block or reverse the negative effects of ultraviolet rays and restore skin homeostasis. This article aims to provide theoretical support and research ideas for the development of microbial anti-photoaging methods, with a view to promoting the healthy and sustainable development of China’s cosmetics industry. 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

分析与检测

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基于超级微波消解-电感耦合等离子体质谱法分析儿童化妆品中的40种元素 Detection and analysis of 40 elements in children’s cosmetics based on super microwave digestion inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry 潘小红, 殷帅, 刘玉玲, 黄海萍, 赵薇 2023 (4):  465-471.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.014 摘要 ( 118 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF(1200KB) ( 183 )   为了解儿童化妆品中元素含量的情况，建立了超级微波消解-电感耦合等离子体质谱法测定儿童化妆品中40种元素的方法，方法学验证后，对75批样品进行了测定和检测结果分析评价。结果表明，该方法满足化妆品的检测要求，且方法简便、快速、准确、适用儿童化妆品中元素的测定。汞、铅、砷、镉元素检测结果均符合规定；镍、铬、钡三种元素，其中2批样品的钡元素测定结果分别为0.88和0.62 mg/kg，1批镍元素测定结果为6.71 mg/kg，其余样品三种元素的检测结果均小于0.5 mg/kg；钛元素测定结果为0.2~82.5 mg/kg；1批银元素的测结果为6.83 mg/kg；16种稀土元素均小于0.1 mg/kg，其余元素均小于0.3 mg/kg。建议在儿童化妆品中，对镍、铬、钡三种元素及其盐开展限度研究、对钛含量进行健康风险评估、对氰化银钾的检测方法进行完善，稀土元素和其余元素安全状况良好，安全风险较低。 To investigate the content of elements in children’s cosmetics, a method for the determination of 40 elements in children’s cosmetics by super microwave digestion inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry was established. After validation of the methodology, 75 batches of samples were determined and the results were analyzed. Results show that the methods meet the requirements of cosmetic testing with simple, rapid, accurate and can be used to the determination of elements in children’s cosmetics. The determination results of mercury, lead, arsenic and cadmium all conform to the standard. In the determination of nickel, chromium and barium, two batches of barium are 0.88 and 0.62 mg/kg, one batch of nickel is 6.71 mg/kg, and other samples are all less than 0.5 mg/kg. The determination results of titanium element range from 0.2 to 82.5 mg/kg. One batch of silver determination result is 6.83 mg/kg. The 16 rare earth elements are less than 0.1 mg/kg, and the other elements are less than 0.3 mg/kg. It is suggested that in children’s cosmetics, the limits of nickel, chromium, barium and their salts should be studied, the health risk of titanium content should be evaluated, and the detection method of silver potassium cyanide should be improved. Rare earth elements and other elements are in good safety condition with low safety risk. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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美甲化妆品中VOCs臭氧贡献及其健康风险评价 Ozone contribution of VOCs in nail cosmetics and its health risk assessment 陈攀金, 沈正超, 杜振霞 2023 (4):  472-480.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.015 摘要 ( 151 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF(1707KB) ( 209 )   VOCs排放控制是当前控制臭氧浓度的主要手段之一。美甲化妆品近几年使用量逐年增加，由于其含有较多挥发性溶剂，其释放VOCs清单研究很有必要。文章通过市场调研采集了使用量较大的25个具有代表性的指甲油样品，并建立了不同类型的美甲化妆品中总VOCs及VOCs清单的检测方法：首先将一定量样品置于烘箱（105 ℃）测定产品总挥发量，利用卡尔费休法测定水含量，顶空-气质联用（HS-GC-MS）对其中VOCs进行定性定量检测。水性型指甲油、有机溶剂型指甲油、营养油和卸甲水的平均VOCs含量分别为0.314 5，0.366 9，0.049 6，0.904 2 g/g；4类美甲化妆品中主要VOCs类别分别为胺类（N-甲基吡咯烷酮、三乙胺）、酯类（乙酸乙酯）、萜烯类（（±）-柠檬烯）和醇类（2-苯氧乙醇、甲醇、乙醇）；有机溶剂型指甲油中还含有少量苯系物：甲苯、间二甲苯、1，2，4-三甲基苯；卸甲水中还含有18.39%丙酮。根据不同类型指甲油的VOCs排放清单及其含量，计算了其对臭氧生成的贡献，单位质量美甲化妆品O3生成量为0.000 061 2~1.15 g/g，其中，单位质量有机溶剂型指甲油的O3贡献率最大。各类美甲化妆品释放的VOCs类别中OFP贡献最大的分别为胺类、苯系物、醇类，其中，苯系物具有高反应活性，对O3贡献较大。根据呼吸暴露计算美甲化妆品中VOCs对人体的非致癌危害商（HQ）范围为6.66×10-6~8.64×10-4，危害指数（HI）<1，健康风险评价结果表明对成年女性不存在非致癌风险。该研究为管控美甲化妆品VOCs释放清单提供了基础数据。 VOCs emission control is one of the main means to control ozone concentration at present. In recent years, the use of nail cosmetics has been increasing year by year. Since it contains more volatile solvents, it is necessary to study the emission inventory of VOCs released. This study collected 25 representative nail polish samples with a large amount of use through market research, and established a detection method for the total VOCs and VOCs emission list in different types of nail cosmetics. Firstly, a certain amount of samples were placed in an oven （105 ℃） to determine the total volatile content of the product, the Karl Fischer method was used to determine the water content, and headspace-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry（HS-GC-MS） was used for qualitative and quantitative detection of VOCs. The average VOCs content of water-based nail polish, organic solvent-based nail polish, nutritional oil and nail remover are 0.314 5, 0.366 9, 0.049 6, 0.904 2 g/g, respectively. The main VOCs categories in the four types of nail cosmetics are amines （N-methylpyrrolidone, triethylamine）, esters （ethyl acetate）, terpenes （（±）-limonene） and alcohols （2-phenoxyethanol, methanol, ethanol）. Organic solvent-based nail polishes contain a small amount of BTEX: toluene, m-xylene, and 1, 2, 4-trimethylbenzene, and the nail remover contains 18.39% acetone. According to the VOCs emission list and content in the different types nail polish, its contribution to ozone generation is calculated. The amount of O3 generated per unit mass of nail polish is 0.000 061 2~1.15 g/g, of which the O3 per unit mass of organic solvent-based nail polish has the largest contribution rate. Among the VOCs released by various types of nail cosmetics, OFP contributes the most to amines, BTEX, and alcohols. Among them, BTEX has high reactivity and contributes greatly to O3. Based on respiratory exposure, the non-carcinogenic hazard quotient （HQ） of VOCs in nail cosmetics to human health is calculated in the range of 6.66×10-6-8.64×10-4, and the hazard index （HI）<1. The health risk assessment results show that there is no non-carcinogenic risk to adult women. This study provides basic data for the control of the VOCs emission of nail cosmetic products. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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HPLC-MS/MS法测定3种不同基质化妆品中10种斯汀类禁用药物 Determination of 10 prohibited stines in 3 different matrixes of cosmetics by HPLC-MS/MS 吴鸳鸯, 张丽媛, 王任, 何婷婷 2023 (4):  481-486.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.016 摘要 ( 143 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF(1174KB) ( 128 )   建立了高效液相色谱-质谱联用法（HPLC-MS/MS）测定3种不同基质类型化妆品中10种斯汀类禁用药物的分析方法。样品经0.1%甲酸-乙腈超声提取后，采用Agilent Eclipse plus C8 （2.1 mm×100 mm，1.8 μm）色谱柱，以甲醇-5 mmol/L甲酸铵0.1%甲酸水溶液作为流动相梯度洗脱。使用三重四极杆质谱多反应监测模式（MRM）检测，标准曲线外标法定量。结果表明，盐酸倍他司汀、咪唑斯汀、盐酸依匹斯汀、富马酸依美斯汀在1~16 μg/L质量浓度范围，其余六种斯汀类在0.1~1.6 μg/L质量浓度范围内线性良好，相关系数（r2）>0.99，检出限（LOD）和定量下限（LOQ）分别为0.003~0.12 μg/L和0.011~0.39 μg/L。3个不同质量浓度添加水平下，水剂、乳液类和膏霜类样品回收率分别为88.0%~107.8%，87.1%~106.5%和87.1%~107.7%，相对标准偏差（RSD）<10%。该方法前处理简单、高效、方法回收率高重复性好，适用于水剂、乳液和膏霜类化妆品中10种斯汀类禁用药物的同时测定。 A high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry （HPLC-MS/MS） method has been established for the simultaneous determination of 10 banned stines drugs in 3 different matrixes of cosmetics. The sample was ultrasonically extracted with 0.1% formic acid-acetonitrile and performed on an Agilent Eclipse plus C8 column （2.1 mm×100 mm, 1.8 μm） with gradient elution using methanol and 5 mmol/L ammonium formate-0.1% formic acid aqueous solution as the mobile phase. The determination was performed by MS/MS in multiple reaction detection （MRM） mode, and the external standard method was used for quantification. Betahistine dihydrochlorride, mizolastine, epinastine hydrochloride, and emedastine difumarate have good linearity in the range of 1-16 μg/L, while the other six stines have good linearity in the range of 0.1-1.6 μg/L, with the correlation coefficient （r2）>0.99. The limits of detection （LODs） and the limits of quantification （LOQs） are in the range of 0.003-0.12 μg/L and 0.011-0.39 μg/L, respectively. At three different levels of addition, the recoveries of water aqua, lotion and cream samples are 88.0%-107.8%, 87.1%-106.5%, and 87.1%-107.7%, respectively. And the relative standard deviation （RSD） is less than 10%. The method is accurate, high-efficiency, simple pre-treatment, and high recovery rate. It is suitable for the simultaneous determination of 10 stines in cosmetics. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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UPLC-MS/MS法测定不同基质祛痘化妆品中17种磺胺类药物 Determination of 17 sulfonamides in anti-acne cosmetics with different substrates by UPLC-MS/MS 陈桂娟, 邢海艳, 姚欣悦, 韩永红, 陶娟 2023 (4):  487-492.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.04.017 摘要 ( 151 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF(1257KB) ( 208 )   建立同时测定不同基质祛痘化妆品中17种磺胺类药物含量的超高效液相色谱-串联三重四极杆质谱法（UPLC-MS/MS）。样品经50%甲醇水溶液超声提取后，用Waters ACQUITY UPLC® BEH C18色谱柱（100 mm×2.1 mm，1.7 μm），以不同体积分数的甲醇和0.1%（体积分数）甲酸水溶液的混合液为流动相进行梯度洗脱分离。质谱分析中采用电喷雾离子源和正离子多反应监测模式检测，外标法定量。结果显示样品基质效应较小，可不予考虑。17种磺胺类药物在质量浓度为0.5~100 ng/mL范围内与其对应的响应值呈线性关系，相关系数均大于0.999，检出限为0.002~0.028 μg/g，定量限为0.006~0.094 μg/g。按标准物质加入法进行回收试验，添加含量为0.25~2.5 μg/g时，回收率为97.5%~118.3%，相对标准偏差为0.74%~6.37%。按此方法分析了10批市售祛痘化妆品，均未检出17种磺胺类药物成分。 Simultaneous determination of 17 sulfonamides in cosmetics by ultra high performance liquid chromatography tandem triple quadrupole mass spectrometry （UPLC-MS/MS） was established. The samples were dissolved in 50% methanol aqueous solutions by ultrasonic extraction, and the Waters ACQUITY UPLC® BEH C18 column （100 mm×2.1 mm, 1.7 μm） was used. The mixture of methanol and 0.1% （volume fraction） formic acid aqueous solutions with different volume fraction was used as the mobile phase for gradient elution, measured with liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry in electrospray ion mode and positive ion multiple reaction monitoring （ESI+）, and quantification by external standard method. The results show that the matrix effects of the sample are small and can be ignored. There is a good linear relationship for 17 sulfonamides at the mass concentrations of 0.5-100 ng/mL, and the correlation coefficients are greater than 0.999. The detection limits are 0.002-0.028 μg/g, and the quantitation limits are 0.006-0.094 μg/g. The average recovery is 97.5%-118.3% with the standard references added at the content of 0.25-2.5 μg/g in blank samples, and the relative standard deviations （n=6） are 0.74%-6.37%. According to this method, 10 batches of anti-acne cosmetics are analyzed, and none is detected with 17 sulfonamides. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标