透明质酸锌的护肤功效研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.010

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

以不同分子量透明质酸锌为研究对象，通过斑马鱼保湿、皮脂腺细胞SZ95的脂滴检测、5α还原酶抑制作用、成纤维细胞增殖、Ⅰ型胶原蛋白含量检测、巨噬细胞的炎症因子抑制试验，对其体外保湿、控油、紧致、舒缓功效进行了研究。结果显示0.5%中分子透明质酸锌可以抑制斑马鱼因高渗透压引起的失水，具有显著的保湿功效；大分子透明质酸锌可以通过抑制5α还原酶达到控油功效，中分子、小分子透明质酸锌可以通过抑制脂滴合成、抑制5α还原酶达到控油功效；小分子透明质酸锌有良好的促进成纤维细胞增殖作用，促进作用呈现剂量依赖性，中分子透明质酸锌在质量浓度为125，12.5和1.25 μg/mL时，均可显著促进Collagen I的生成；大分子、中分子、小分子透明质酸锌在质量浓度为25，125 μg/mL时均可显著抑制炎症因子IL-1α，TNF-α，PGE 2的表达。实验结果表明，透明质酸锌具有良好的保湿、控油、紧致、舒缓的功效。

关键词: 透明质酸锌, 保湿, 控油, 紧致, 舒缓

Abstract:

With zinc hyaluronate of different molecular weight as the research object, the in vitro moisturizing, oil control, firming and soothing effects were studied by the zebrafish mosturiztion test, the lipid drop detection of sebacogland cell SZ95, the inhibition of 5α reductase, the proliferation of fibroblasts, the detection of type Ⅰ collagen content, and the inhibition of inflammatory factor of macrophages. The results show that 0.5% zinc hyaluronate can inhibit the water loss caused by high osmotic pressure of zebrafish and has significant moisturizing effect. Large molecules of zinc hyaluronate can achieve oil control effect by inhibiting 5α reductase. Medium and small molecules of zinc hyaluronate can achieve oil control effect by inhibiting the synthesis of lipid droplets and inhibiting 5α reductase. Small molecules of zinc hyaluronic acid can promote fibroblast proliferation in a dose-dependent way. Collagen I formation is significantly promoted by medium molecules of zinc hyaluronic acid at 125, 12.5 and 1.25 μg/mL. The expressions of IL-1α, TNF-α and PGE 2 are significantly inhibited by large, medium and small molecules of zinc hyaluronate at the mass concentrations of 25 and 125 μg/mL. Experiments show that zinc hyaluronate has good moisturizing, oil control, firming, and soothing effect.

Key words: zinc hyaluronate, moisturize, oil control, firming, soothing

中图分类号:

TQ658

郭海姣, 王晓娜, 杨素珍, 袁春颖, 任轩, 韩婷婷. 透明质酸锌的护肤功效研究[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2023, 53(12): 1429-1436.

Haijiao Guo, Xiaona Wang, Suzhen Yang, Chunying Yuan, Xuan Ren, Tingting Han. Study on the skin care efficacy of zinc hyaluronate[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(12): 1429-1436.

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参考文献 23

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试剂	空白对照组（BC）	正常组（NC）	度他雄胺组（PC）	待测组（R）
10 mg/mL 5α还原酶	0	5 μL	5 μL	5 μL
Tris-HCl缓冲液，pH=7.4	70 μL	65 μL	65 μL	65 μL
度他雄胺	0	0	10 μL	0
待测样品	0	0	0	10 μL
溶剂对照（Tris-HCl缓冲液）	10 μL	10 μL	0	0
睾酮（4 μg/mL）	10 μL	10 μL	10 μL	10 μL
NADPH（10 mmol/L）	10 μL	10 μL	10 μL	10 μL

样品名称	OD值	SD	P	抑制率/ %
BC	0.348	0.028
NC	0.483	0.025	0.003 6	—
PC	0.404	0.012	0.008 3	16.36
大分子HA-Zn-125 μg/mL	0.478	0.025	0.808 7	—
大分子HA-Zn-25 μg/mL	0.449	0.013	0.106 2	—
大分子HA-Zn-5 μg/mL	0.473	0.014	0.574 9	—
中分子HA-Zn-125 μg/mL	0.429	0.005	0.021 3	11.18
中分子HA-Zn-25 μg/mL	0.440	0.007	0.045 7	8.90
中分子HA-Zn-5 μg/mL	0.441	0.006	0.049 1	8.70
小分子HA-Zn-125 μg/mL	0.421	0.005	0.014 1	12.84
小分子HA-Zn-25 μg/mL	0.437	0.011	0.044 4	9.52
小分子HA-Zn-5 μg/mL	0.439	0.010	0.046 0	9.11

样品名称	质量浓度/（μg/mL）	平均抑制率/%	SD/%	P
NC	0	0.00	1.72
PC	5	78.52	1.19	0.000
大分子HA-Zn	160	101.10	0.32	0.000
	80	94.81	2.37	0.000
	40	96.21	3.59	0.000
	20	80.75	9.61	0.000
	10	86.07	3.11	0.000
	5	75.75	0.63	0.000
中分子HA-Zn	160	93.45	3.98	0.000
	80	109.41	10.61	0.000
	40	94.55	7.48	0.000
	20	99.26	2.50	0.000
	10	92.78	1.89	0.000
	5	99.28	2.99	0.000
小分子HA-Zn	160	100.97	3.42	0.000
	80	102.84	1.94	0.000
	40	89.10	4.29	0.000
	20	95.75	0.56	0.000
	10	90.07	1.33	0.000
	5	87.75	7.44	0.000

样品名称	0 h	SD	24 h	SD	P	48 h	SD	P	72 h	SD	P
BC	100	1.03	165.58	9.24		230.31	5.28		324.66	7.55
PC	100	1.03	234.93	8.90	0.02	305.31	8.92	0.01	413.36	7.41	—
大分子HA-Zn-1.2 μg/mL	100	1.03	159.93	5.20	—	242.12	3.93	0.03	323.97	2.82	—
大分子HA-Zn-6 μg/mL	100	1.03	159.25	8.45	—	246.23	6.14	0.01	332.02	3.47	—
大分子HA-Zn-30 μg/mL	100	1.03	167.47	6.53	—	253.25	5.17	0.01	349.66	8.65	—
中分子HA-Zn-1.25 μg/mL	100	1.03	158.39	3.73	—	235.62	3.85	—	325.34	1.52	—
中分子HA-Zn-12.5 μg/mL	100	1.03	170.38	7.81	—	238.36	8.63	—	357.19	9.14	—
中分子HA-Zn-125 μg/mL	100	1.03	176.37	5.32	—	237.50	7.55	—	325.51	7.12	—
小分子HA-Zn-1 μg/mL	100	1.03	160.10	9.34	—	255.31	9.18	0.01	325.51	8.98	—
小分子HA-Zn-3 μg/mL	100	1.03	163.18	5.72	—	259.59	4.72	0.01	339.04	5.77	—
小分子HA-Zn-5 μg/mL	100	1.03	174.49	6.57	—	267.81	7.21	0.01	342.29	7.04	—

样品名称	平均质量浓度/（ng/mL）	SD	P-Value	提升率/ %
BC	35.30	2.06
PC	64.48	4.45	0.000	82.66
大分子HA-Zn-5 μg/mL	36.65	3.38	0.587	—
大分子HA-Zn-3 μg/mL	35.38	2.16	0.964	—
大分子HA-Zn-1 μg/mL	35.25	3.71	0.983	—
中分子HA-Zn-125 μg/mL	41.81	1.31	0.010	18.44
中分子HA-Zn-12.5 μg/mL	40.99	1.56	0.019	16.12
中分子HA-Zn-1.25 μg/mL	40.21	1.63	0.032	13.91
小分子HA-Zn-30 μg/mL	33.95	1.96	0.457	—
小分子HA-Zn-6 μg/mL	35.37	1.30	0.960	—
小分子HA-Zn-1.2 μg/mL	38.16	0.19	0.075	—