桃树脂提取物的抗衰老功效研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.02.008

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

皮肤老化由多种因素引起,主要包括年龄导致的自然老化和暴露于环境导致的光老化。大气中的紫外线、雾霾中的多环芳烃均能造成皮肤炎症、细胞活性和功能下降,最终导致皮肤松弛、老化,形成皱纹、斑点。本研究以桃树脂提取物（PG）为研究对象,通过多种方法对其紧致、抗皱的功效进行研究。结果显示,在成纤维细胞衰老模型上,PG在质量分数为0.3%~10%的范围下能剂量依赖性地促进成纤维细胞增殖、Ⅰ型胶原蛋白合成,降低β-半乳糖苷酶的活性。在紫外线（UVA）和雾霾类似物苯并芘（BaP）造成的角质形成细胞衰老模型上,质量分数为0.1%~10%的PG可以抑制细胞因子前列腺素E2和基质金属蛋白酶1表达,恢复细胞活性,并降低β-半乳糖苷酶的活性。在人体临床评价上,质量分数为2%~10%的PG具有显著的即时提升皮肤含水量、降低经皮失水率、提升紧肤感、减少皱纹效果。PG作为一种天然来源的活性原料,可应用于皮肤保湿、紧致、抗皱系列产品中。

关键词: 桃树脂提取物, 保湿, 即时紧肤, 即时抗皱

Abstract:

Photoaging or premature aging of skin is caused by a variety of factors, including hormone imbalance and exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Both ultraviolet light and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons in haze can cause skin aging and inflammation. Peach resin is a gum substance secreted from the bark of Rosaceae Prunus persica （L.） Batsch or Prunus davidiana （Carr.） Franch, which is beneficial to health. It also has the advantages of being natural and non-toxic, large in yield, and low in price. Peach gum is a kind of polysaccharide, which has the characteristics of swelling in water and slow release. At present, peach gum has been widely used in food and health care, but the basic research is still relatively weak. Peach gum is a natural cosmetic raw material with great potential for development and application. In this study, a Prunus persica （Peach） resin extract （PG） was prepared and its anti-aging effect was detected by several methods. The results suggested that, based on the model of fibroblast cell aging, PG could promote cell proliferation, Collagen Ⅰ expression and inhibit the activity of beta-GAL in a dosage-dependent manner in the mass fraction range of 0.3% to 10%. In the cell damage model induced by UVA and BaP, PG at the mass fraction between 0.1% to 10% could inhibit the expression of inflammatory factors Prostaglandin E₂and Matrix metallopeptidase 1. The results of clinical study showed that 5% and 10% PG had significantly increased skin tightening effect. In human clinical evaluation, PG at the mass fraction range of 2% to 10% could significantly increase skin moisture content, reduce transepidermal water loss, improve skin firmness, and reduce wrinkles. As a natural material with anti-aging effect, PG can be used in skin anti-wrinkle products.

Key words: Prunus persica （peach） resin extract, moisturizing, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle

中图分类号:

TQ658

黄少勇,周利丹,寻伟,施雪梅,卢伊娜. 桃树脂提取物的抗衰老功效研究[J]. 日用化学工业, 2022, 52(2): 159-165.

Huang Shaoyong,Zhou Lidan,Xun Wei,Shi Xuemei,Lu Yina. Study of the anti-aging efficacy of Prunus persica （peach） resin extract[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2022, 52(2): 159-165.

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