液晶乳液制备的影响因素及其在化妆品中的应用

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.07.012

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

液晶乳化体系是一类新型的载体体系,可包裹功效物质,是化妆品乳液制备的研究热点。文章概述了常见的液晶乳化剂以及液晶乳状液制备的影响因素,包括配方组成成分、乳化方法;总结了液晶乳液在化妆品中的应用优势,包括化妆品的安全性、功效性、感官性和稳定性;介绍了液晶乳液在不同功效化妆品中的应用情况,包括保湿产品、防晒产品,旨在为液晶乳液的制备及应用提供理论依据。

关键词: 液晶乳液, 液晶乳化剂, 化妆品

Abstract:

Liquid crystal emulsion has a wide range of applications in the field of cosmetics, showing a variety of excellent properties. This article first introduces the microscopic morphology of the liquid crystal structure. Secondly, it summarizes the liquid crystal emulsifiers and the factors that affect the preparation of liquid crystal emulsion, including formula ingredients, emulsification method and emulsification process. Finally, the application advantages of liquid crystal emulsion in cosmetics are summarized, including the safety, efficacy, sensory and stability of cosmetics. Safety is mainly reflected in the packaging and sustained release of some active ingredients. The liquid crystal structure isolates the irritating active ingredients from the skin and interacts slowly with the skin. In terms of efficacy, the liquid crystal structure can encapsulate actives, thereby protecting unstable actives, slow-release actives, and promoting the penetration of actives on the skin. In terms of sensory properties, due to the layered structure of the lamellar liquid crystal, the layered structure can slide during the application process because it can improve the smearing feeling of the cosmetics during use. Finally, the application of liquid crystal emulsion in cosmetics with different efficacies, including moisturizing products and sunscreen products, is introduced, which aims to provide a theoretical basis for the preparation and application of liquid crystal emulsion.

Key words: liquid crystal emulsion, liquid crystal emulsifier, cosmetic

中图分类号:

TQ658

刘慧民,马晓原,赵永红. 液晶乳液制备的影响因素及其在化妆品中的应用[J]. 日用化学工业, 2022, 52(7): 762-769.

Liu Huimin,Ma Xiaoyuan,Zhao Yonghong. Preparation of liquid crystal emulsion and its application in cosmetics[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2022, 52(7): 762-769.

图/表 4

图1

表1

液晶乳化剂"

种类	商品名	供应商	INCI名
烷基糖苷类	Montanov 68	SEPPIC	鲸蜡硬脂醇;鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷
	Montanov 82	SEPPIC	鲸蜡硬脂醇;椰油基葡糖苷
	Montanov 202	SEPPIC	花生醇;山嵛醇;花生醇葡糖苷
	Montanov L	SEPPIC	C_14~20醇;C_12~20烷基葡糖苷
	Montanov S	SEPPIC	椰油基葡糖苷;椰油醇
	Plantasens^® Natural Emulsifier HE20	Clariant	鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷;山梨坦橄榄油酸酯
	Tego care CG90	Evonik	鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷
	Sethimulse crystal moist	Sethic	鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷;山梨坦硬脂酸酯;甘油硬脂酸酯;鲸蜡硬脂醇
	Giga Emulgin S-68	GigaFineChemical	鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷;鲸蜡硬脂醇;硬脂酰谷氨酸钠
	EmulgadePL68/50	BASF	鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷;鲸蜡硬脂醇
蔗糖酯类	Eumulgin Sucro	BASF	蔗糖多硬脂酸酯;氢化聚异丁烯
	Emulgade^® Sucro Plus	BASF	蔗糖多硬脂酸酯;鲸蜡醇棕榈酸酯
	Plantasens^® Natural Emulsifier HP10	Clariant	蔗糖多硬脂酸酯;鲸蜡硬脂醇;油橄榄油不皂化物
	Oliderm O/W 10	Sethic	蔗糖多硬脂酸酯;鲸蜡硬脂醇;油橄榄油不皂化物
	Arlacel 2121	Croda	硬脂酸山梨醇酯;蔗糖椰油酸酯
卵磷脂类	Prolipid 141	Ashland	甘油硬脂酸酯;山嵛醇;棕榈酸;硬脂酸;卵磷脂;月桂醇;肉豆蔻醇;鲸蜡醇
磷酸酯类	Sensanov WR	SEPPIC	C_20~22烷基磷酸酯;C_20~22醇
磷酸酯类	AMPHISOL^® K	DSM	鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾
橄榄酯类	Olivem 1000	Hallstar	鲸蜡硬脂醇橄榄油酸酯;山梨坦橄榄油酸酯
硬脂酰类	Biobase S	OTC	甘油硬脂酸酯;鲸蜡醇;硬脂酰乳酰乳酸钠
	Eumulgin SG	BASF	硬脂酰谷氨酸钠
	Plantasens^® Natural Emulsifier HP30	Clariant	硬脂酰乳酰乳酸;甘油硬脂酸酯;鲸蜡硬脂醇
	SKYCORE PE98	仲皓璟	硬脂酰乳酰乳酸钠;甘油硬脂酸酯;鲸蜡硬脂醇
聚甘油酯类	Polyaldo 6-2-S	Lonza	聚甘油-6二硬脂酸酯
	Sunsoft α-C	Taiyo Kagaku	聚甘油-5硬脂酸酯;甘油硬脂酸酯
	TEGO Care 450	Evonik	聚甘油-3甲基葡糖二硬脂酸酯
其他	Eumulgin BA 25	BASF	山嵛醇聚醚-25
	Emulium^® DELTA	Gattefosse	鲸蜡醇;甘油硬脂酸酯;PEG-75硬脂酸酯;鲸蜡醇聚醚-20;硬脂醇聚醚-20
	Arlacel LC	Croda	山梨坦硬脂酸酯;山梨醇月桂酸酯

表1

图2

图3

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