化妆品植物原料（Ⅲ）——在保湿化妆品中的研究与开发

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.05.002

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

皮肤保湿是护肤的基础。人体自身的天然保湿屏障角质层和真皮层对皮肤保湿和储水发挥了重要的作用。通过外源性保湿方法也可以达到皮肤保湿的效果。许多植物提取物对皮肤有明显的水合和保湿作用。文章简单介绍了皮肤表皮和真皮的保湿机理以及保湿方法,主要介绍化妆品中植物提取物的天然保湿成分,主要为植物多糖、油、三萜皂苷、甾体皂苷、黄酮和多酚。植物提取物的保湿机制根据其成分结构有所不同：植物提取物中的水溶性保湿成分主要通过羟基或酚羟基的氢键作用吸收和保持水分,它们对水的不同结合能力从而影响皮肤的水合能力;而植物油的脂肪酸成分在皮肤上形成一层薄膜保持水分,防止皮肤干燥。除了保湿作用,许多植物提取物还具有抗氧化和抗炎等功效,在化妆品中具有很好的应用前景。本文通过对植物提取物的天然保湿成分的详细阐述,以期为植物原料更好地应用到保湿化妆品中提供借鉴。

关键词: 植物提取物, 保湿剂, 化妆品

Abstract:

Moisturizing is essential for skin care and important to reduce the chances of skin problems. The stratum corneum and dermis, the natural skin moisture barrier, play an important role in hydration and water storage. In addition, moisturizer is used for moisturizing and protecting the skin. Many plant extracts have obvious hydrating and moisturizing effects on skin. This paper briefly introduced the skin moisturizing mechanism and skin moisturizing methods, mainly reviewing the natural moisturizing ingredients of plant extracts in cosmetics, including plant polysaccharides, oil, saponins, flavonoids and polyphenols. The moisturizing mechanism of plant extracts is different according to their composition and structure. Hydrophilic constituents of plant extracts mainly attract and hold water through hydrogen bonding with their hydroxyl groups or phenolic hydroxyl groups, and they can differ in water binding capacity as in their ability to influence the degree of skin hydration; And fatty acids of plant oils will form a thin layer of oil on the skin to prevent water evaporation and keep the skin moisturized. Besides the application as moisturizing ingredients, many plant extracts also show antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities which have great potential application in cosmetics. Here we review the moisturizing ingredients of plant extracts in detail, in order to provide ideas for the application of plant extracts as natural moisturizers in cosmetics.

Key words: plant extracts, moisturizers, cosmetics

中图分类号:

TQ658

张雨彤,宋阳,吴华,金建明. 化妆品植物原料（Ⅲ）——在保湿化妆品中的研究与开发[J]. 日用化学工业, 2021, 51(5): 383-389.

ZHANG Yu-tong,SONG Yang,WU Hua,JIN Jian-ming. Botanical cosmetic ingredient （III） Research and development of natural moisturizers in cosmetics[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2021, 51(5): 383-389.

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名称	来源	主要糖基组成	功效	参考文献
芦荟多糖	库拉索芦荟	甘露糖基、半乳糖基、葡萄糖基和鼠李糖基等组成的乙酰化甘露聚糖	保湿,伤口愈合和抗氧化	[15]
仙人掌多糖	仙人掌	阿拉伯糖基、鼠李糖基、木糖基、半乳糖基、甘露糖基、葡萄糖基和葡萄糖醛酸基	保湿,抗炎,抗氧化和抗菌	[16,17]
黄芪多糖	黄芪	主要为葡聚糖和杂多糖	保湿,抗炎,抗氧化和抗菌	[18]
甘草多糖	甘草	木糖基、甘露糖基、葡萄糖基和半乳糖基	保湿和抗氧化	[19]
石斛多糖	铁皮石斛	葡萄糖基、甘露糖基和半乳糖基组成的乙酰化葡甘露聚糖	保湿,抗炎,抗氧化,抗菌,抗衰老和促进头发生长	[20]
火参多糖	火参	半乳糖基、葡萄糖基和甘露糖基组成并含有氨基的杂多糖	保湿,抗炎,抗氧化和抗衰老	[21]

名称	来源	主要糖基组成	功效	参考文献
海藻酸	褐藻	甘露糖醛酸基和古洛糖醛酸基	保湿,增稠,促进伤口愈合,胶凝剂和抗菌	[24-27]
孤枝根枝藻提取物	孤枝根枝藻	阿拉伯糖基、鼠李糖基、木糖基和半乳糖基	保湿,增稠剂,乳化剂,抗衰老	[28]
褐藻糖胶	褐藻	硫酸化的岩藻糖基、葡萄糖基、葡萄糖醛酸基、鼠李糖基、甘露糖基、半乳糖基和木糖基	抗氧化,抗炎,维持皮肤弹性,防止皮肤老化,减少皮肤色素沉着和抗菌	[29]
马尾藻多糖	马尾藻	岩藻糖的硫酸酯化多糖	保湿,抗氧化,美白和抗衰老	[30]
石莼多糖	绿藻	葡萄糖醛酸基、鼠李糖基-3-硫酸盐和艾杜糖醛酸基	保湿,抗氧化和抗凝血	[31]

名称	来源	主要成分	功效	参考文献
小麦胚芽油	小麦	亚油酸、油酸和亚麻酸等,维生素	保湿,抗氧化和促进伤口愈合	[34]
椰子油	椰子	月桂酸、肉豆蔻酸、棕榈酸、辛酸、癸酸、油酸和亚油酸等	保湿,抗炎,抗紫外和抗菌	[35,36]
沙棘油	沙棘	亚油酸、油酸、棕榈油酸和亚麻酸等,维生素	保湿,抗炎,刺激表皮保湿、抗氧化,抗紫外,皮肤再生,促进伤口愈合,延缓衰老和护发	[38]
树莓油	树莓	亚油酸、棕榈酸和硬脂酸等,维生素、生育酚和神经酰胺	保湿,抗衰老,美白,抗紫外和增加皮肤弹性	[33,39,40]
葡萄籽油	葡萄	油酸和亚油酸,ω-6脂肪酸,原花青素和酚酸等	保湿,抗炎,抗氧化,抗菌和促进伤口愈合	[33]