硫酸化糖胺聚糖护肤功效研究进展

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.012

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

随着消费者科学护肤意识的不断提高，以皮肤问题为导向的功效护肤和精准护肤方式成为化妆品重要的发展趋势。糖胺聚糖是由重复双糖单元组成的长链、线性多糖，在皮肤中进行高水平内源表达，普遍存在于皮肤细胞内、细胞表面和细胞外基质中，具有复杂的生物结构和多效生物活性。除透明质酸外，硫酸化的肝素、硫酸乙酰肝素、硫酸皮肤素和硫酸软骨素在抗皱、紧致、舒缓和改善微血管循环方面发挥着重要作用，但目前还未在化妆品领域得到广泛的应用。文章综述了硫酸化糖胺聚糖的护肤作用机理，展示了硫酸化糖胺聚糖作为功效成分在化妆品领域的应用潜力。

关键词: 硫酸化糖胺聚糖, 皮肤, 抗皱, 紧致, 舒缓, 微血管循环

Abstract:

With the improvement of consumers’ scientific skin care consciousness, skin problems-oriented efficacy skin care and precise skin care methods have become the future development trend. Glycosaminoglycans are long, linear polysaccharides comprised of repeated disaccharide units, which are highly expressed endogenously in the skin. They are commonly present in skin cells, cell surface and extracellular matrix, with pleiotropic biological function. In addition to hyaluronic acid, the sulfated glycosaminoglycans heparin, heparan sulfate, dermatan sulfate and chondroitin sulfate play an important role in anti-wrinkle, firming, soothing, and improving microvascular circulation, but are still in the research and development stage in cosmetics. This paper summarizes the skincare mechanism of sulfated glycosaminoglycans, and demonstrates the potential of sulfated glycosaminoglycans as functional raw materials in cosmetics.

Key words: sulfated glycosaminoglycans, skin, anti-wrinkle, firming, soothing, microvascular circulation

中图分类号:

TQ658

张彦位, 许忠良, 杜曦, 李振, 田志鹏. 硫酸化糖胺聚糖护肤功效研究进展[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(12): 1497-1503.

Yanwei Zhang, Zhongliang Xu, Xi Du, Zhen Li, Zhipeng Tian. Research progress on the skincare efficacy of sulfated glycosaminoglycans[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(12): 1497-1503.

图/表 3

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		单糖2
		葡萄糖醛酸（GlcUA）	艾杜糖醛酸（IdoUA）	半乳糖（Galactose）
单糖1	N-乙酰葡糖胺（GlcNAc）	HS ^[6,10]	—	KS ^[8]
单糖1	N-乙酰半乳糖胺（GalNAc）	CS ^[7]	DS ^[7]	—

蛋白聚糖	核心蛋白/kDa	糖胺聚糖链	皮肤中的位置	参考文献
Syndecan家族	22~43	多条CS和HS（多种亚型）	表皮层：跨膜/细胞外基质	[13]
Decorin	36	1条CS或DS（皮肤中DS居多）	真皮层：细胞外基质	[12]
Lumican	37	2~3条KS-I	真皮层：细胞外基质	[16]
Biglycan	38	2条CS或DS	真皮层：细胞外基质	[17]
Versican	72~373	多条CS	表皮层/真皮层：细胞外基质	[18]
Perlecan	400~450	3条HS	真皮表皮连接处	[19]