化妆品常用肤感改良粉体的性质与发展趋势

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.012

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

随着彩妆产品的蓬勃发展,体质粉体由于可以调节化妆品铺展性、吸附性、贴肤性、质感、淡化视觉焦点,应用越来越广泛,涵盖护肤、防晒、彩妆等领域,受到越来越多美妆品牌的重视。本文首先简要介绍了硅石、滑石粉、云母粉、聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯、聚甲基硅倍半氧烷、硅弹性体粉、尼龙粉、聚氨酯粉及淀粉等肤感改良粉体,对以上粉体的表面形态、粒径、吸油值及肤感特点等性质进行归纳总结,并阐述肤感改良粉体的应用现状,然后对复合粉体与传统粉体的特点进行比较得知,随着市场的不断发展,复合粉体的附加性能更能满足现代化妆品在肤感、功效上越来越高的要求,最后对肤感改良粉体的发展趋势进行了预测,复合粉体会越来越精细化、针对性越来越强、使用会越来越便利,在护肤、防晒、彩妆等不同类型的产品选择肤感改良粉体时,不仅需要从粉体表面形态、粒径、吸油值、肤感特点等方面去综合考虑,多功能复合粉体未来会发挥越来越大的作用。

关键词: 肤感改良, 粉体, 性质, 发展趋势, 化妆品

Abstract:

With the vigorous development of color cosmetics, physical powder has been more and more widely used because it can adjust the spread, absorption, skin adhesion, texture, and fade the visual focus of cosmetics. It is applied more and more widely in all fields, covering skin care, sunscreen, make up, and is paid more and more attention by beauty brands. In this paper, silica, talcum powder, mica powder, polymethyl methacrylate, polymethylsilsesquioxane, silicon elastomer powder, nylon powder, polyurethane powder and starch were briefly introduced. The surface morphology, particle size, oil absorption value and skin feeling’s characteristics of the above powders were summarized, and the application status of skin feeling improved powders was described. Silica, as a spherical powder with smooth skin and high hardness, can absorb oil and water; talc is a layered structure with a certain covering power and strong adhesion; mica is flake structure with outstanding skin adhesion and luster; polymethylmethacrylate is softer than silica and can selectively absorb sebum; polymethylsesimiloxane is a matte spherical powder with uniform particle size distribution; silicon elastomer powder is a spherical powder with strong oil absorption, good soft coking effect; nylon’s hardness is lower than polymethylmethacrylate and its skin feel is soft; polyurethane’s hardness is lower than nylon and it has strong elasticity and cushion feeling; starch has strong smoothness and can reduce the greasy feeling. Then the characteristics of composite powder and traditional powder are compared. With the continuous development of the market, the additional performance of composite powder can better meet the higher requirements of modern cosmetics in skin feeling and efficacy. Finally, the development trend of improved skin feeling powder was predicted. The experience of composite powder is more refined, and the pertinence is stronger. When choosing the skin feeling improved powders, it is not only necessary to comprehensively consider the surface morphology, particle size, oil absorption value and skin feeling characteristics of the powder, but also the multi-functional composite powder will play an increasingly important role in future.

Key words: improvement of skin feeling, powder, properties, development trend, cosmetics

中图分类号:

TQ658

薛绘,杨盼盼,吕旭阳,韩丹,陈金龙,蒋丽刚. 化妆品常用肤感改良粉体的性质与发展趋势[J]. 日用化学工业, 2022, 52(1): 77-83.

Xue Hui,Yang Panpan,Lv Xuyang,Han Dan,Chen Jinlong,Jiang Ligang. Properties and development trend of commonly used cosmetic powder for improving skin feeling[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2022, 52(1): 77-83.

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样品名称	多孔球状硅石（低吸油值）	多孔球状硅石（高吸油值）	空心球状硅石	聚甲基硅氧烷表面处理硅石
INCI名	硅石	硅石	硅石	硅石、聚甲基硅氧烷
粒径/μm	6.0~9.0	10.5~13.5	9.0~23.0	6.0~9.0
表面形态	多孔球状	5 nm表面微孔的球状	空心球状	硅氧烷包覆的微球
吸油值/（mL/100 g）	60~90	130~190	20~100	90~130
肤感特点	爽滑感明显、均匀性高	爽滑感很强、吸附性强、光滑柔焦、高比表面积、低凝结性	滑感不明显、均匀性较低、有柔焦效果	疏水性表面处理、贴肤

样品名称	Talc A	Talc B	Talc C
INCI名	滑石粉、聚二甲基硅氧烷	滑石粉、三乙氧基辛基硅烷	滑石粉、聚二甲基硅氧烷、三乙氧基辛基硅烷
平均粒径/μm	7.0	11.0	7.0
表面形态	层状	层状	层状
肤感特点	压缩性好、白度高、肤感柔软	铺展性好、遮盖力较弱、柔滑感强	长宽比高、白度高、附着性好,更适合散粉和粉饼

样品名称	Mica A	Mica B	Mica C
INCI名	云母、聚二甲基硅氧烷	云母、三乙氧基辛基硅烷	云母、月桂酰赖氨酸
粒径/μm	22.0~24.0	13.0	15.0~20.0
表面形态	片状	片状	片状
肤感特点	贴肤性好,高的长宽比,铺展性好,赋予产品“水光”效果	疏水性好、柔软贴肤、不脱妆	柔软性很好、贴肤、持久、防水

样品名称	半球空心PMMA	多孔空心PMMA	无孔空心PMMA
INCI名	甲基丙烯酸甲酯交联聚合物	甲基丙烯酸甲酯交联聚合物	聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯
表面形态	半球形微球体	多孔空心微球	无孔空心微球
平均粒径/μm	9.0	8.0	7.0
吸油值/（mL/100 g）	290~330	170~210	45
肤感特点	柔软、分散性好,贴肤,超高吸油值	活性物载体,选择性控油、只吸油不吸水	滑动感强,改善肤感,低吸油值

样品名称	尖峰状凸起球形PMSQ	圆球形PMSQ（小粒径）	圆球形PMSQ（中粒径）	圆球形PMSQ（大粒径）
INCI名	聚甲基硅倍半氧烷
表面形态	带尖峰状凸起球形	圆球形	圆球形	圆球形
平均粒径/μm	5.0	2.0	4.0~7.0	11.0
吸油值/（mL/100 g）	-	75	60	56