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    2022年, 第52卷, 第1期 刊出日期:2022-01-22 上一期    下一期
    基础研究
    9, 10-二羟基硬脂酸钠的性能研究
    Study on the performance of sodium 9, 10-dihydroxystearate
    黄思瑜,蒋建中,崔正刚
    2022 (1):  1-6.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.001
    摘要 ( 340 )   HTML ( 82 )   PDF(1344KB) ( 260 )  

    以油酸为原料,双氧水为氧化剂采用一锅法合成了9, 10-二羟基硬脂酸钠(SDHS),该合成方法效率高、污染小,产物结构经核磁与质谱表征,产物纯度经气相色谱和液相色谱确定。研究了SDHS在表面张力、乳化、泡沫、润湿、去污等方面的性能。结果表明,SDHS的纯度较高且表面活性较好,可以在低浓度下稳定O/W乳状液;SDHS是一类低泡型表面活性剂且泡沫稳定性较差;SDHS具有良好的润湿性能和较好的去污性能,适用于洗涤类产品配 方中。

    Sodium 9,10-dihydroxystearate (SDHS) was synthesized from oleic acid and hydrogen peroxide. Compared with the traditional method for preparing SDHS, this synthetic method had the advantages of short reaction time, high efficiency, no waste water, and low environmental pollution. The product was characterized by 1H-NMR, mass spectroscopy, GC and HPLC. The surface tension, detergency and the emulsifying, foaming and wetting properties of SDHS were studied. The results show that the SDHS synthesized by this method has higher purity; SDHS has good surface-active performance; the emulsifying ability of SDHS is better than those of sodium stearate and sodium oleate; it can stabilize O/W emulsions at low concentrations. Compared with traditional anionic surfactants, SDHS has poor foaming performance. SDHS is a kind of low-foaming surfactant and has poor foam stability. SDHS has good wetting performance, and its wetting power is better than sodium oleate and sodium stearate. The detergency experiment shows that SDHS has better cleaning performance, especially for sebum stained cloth. SDHS is suitable to be used in various detergent formulations.

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    科技讲座
    天然生物质材料的制备、性质与应用(Ⅰ)——自然界唯一的碱性多糖:甲壳素/壳聚糖
    Preparation, properties and applications of natural biomass materials (Ⅰ) The unique alkaline polysaccharide in nature: chitin/chitosan
    隋振全,毛金超,徐桂云,范金石
    2022 (1):  7-14.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.002
    摘要 ( 1104 )   HTML ( 33 )   PDF(1286KB) ( 619 )  

    甲壳素是自然界除纤维素之外的第二大天然生物材料,也是自然界唯一的碱性多糖。甲壳素及其脱乙酰基衍生物壳聚糖因为分子结构中存在着氨基、羟基、乙酰氨基、糖苷键等多种活性基团,可发生多种化学反应以制得具有特定性质和用途的功能材料,在医药卫生、环境保护、纺织印染、造纸、食品及日用化工等多个行业中得到广泛应用。本文阐述了甲壳素、壳聚糖的名称、结构和来源,以及常规生产方法、理化性质和近期的应用进展情况,并指出了甲壳素、壳聚糖及其衍生物当前存在的问题和发展方向。

    Chitin is the second most abundant naturally occurring biological material after cellulose, as well as the unique alkaline polysaccharide in nature. Chitin, and its deacetylated derivative, chitosan, i.e., a linear copolymer of β-(1→4)-linked 2- acetamido-2-deoxy-β-D-glucopyranose and 2-amino-2-deoxy-β-D-glucopyranose, offer an excellent set of characteristics as functional materials: biocompatibility, biodegradability to harmless products, high bioavailability, nontoxicity, physiological inertness, antibacterial properties, heavy metal ions chelation, gel forming properties and hydrophilicity, and remarkable affinity to protein and tissue. Due to the presence of amino, hydroxyl, acetyl amino groups and glycosidic bonds in the molecules of chitin and chitosan, many special functional derivatives can be produced by schiff base modification, carboxylation, alkylation, acylation, quaternization, graft copolymerization, cross-linking, and degradation. Owing to these unique characteristics and excellent functions, chitin, chitosan and their derivatives have been widely used in various industrial fields, such as pharmaceutical industry, environmental protection, textile printing and dyeing, paper making, food, tissue engineering, enzyme immobilization, and daily-use chemical industries. Herein, the name, structure and origin of chitin and chitosan, as well as the conventional production methods, physical and chemical properties and current application status of chitin, chitosan and their derivatives, were introduced.

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    开发与应用
    基于微生物灭活芽孢的矿冶粉尘清洁皂的制备及性能研究
    Study on the properties of mineral-dust cleaning soap based on microbial inactivated spores
    李美舒,李希,宋秋华,刘春艳,倪嘉媛,潘涛
    2022 (1):  15-19.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.003
    摘要 ( 198 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF(1101KB) ( 310 )  

    矿冶粉尘给一线工人皮肤健康带来严重威胁。通过添加微生物灭活芽孢于清洁皂中,研究了不同芽孢添加量对清洁皂去污能力的影响,对比了硅藻土、活性炭和芽孢添加皂在粉尘去污和重金属去除方面的异同,并通过感官评价测试了三种皂在皮肤清洁方面的效果。结果表明,添加硅藻土可以达到80%的粉尘去除率。而活性炭尽管比表面积高,但微粒细小同样易于吸附于手掌纹理中,造成二次污染,故去除率最低。在基础皂中添加1%(w/w)灭活芽孢对粉尘污染的去污率达到了95%,二次洗涤可将重金属去除率从90%提高到95%以上。感官评价中,黑色活性炭的吸附作用造成了清洗后的手掌依然不够干净,观感最差;硅藻土皂的清洁效果接近日常家用皂,观感居中;而芽孢皂的清洁效果最明显,观感最佳。

    The production environment of traditional mining and metallurgy industry is abominable, and there is a lot of dust and heavy metal pollution which is a serious threat to the skin health of front-line workers. At present, little attention has been paid to the skin cleaning of mining and metallurgy workers, and there are few relevant products in the market. In this study, by adding microbial inactivated spores to the soaps, the effects of different amounts of spores on the detergency of cleaning soaps were studied. The similarities and differences of dust removal and heavy metal removal between diatomite, activated carbon and spore-added soaps were compared. The effects of these three kinds of soaps on skin cleaning were tested by sensory evaluation. The results show that the addition of diatomite can achieve a dust removal rate of 80%. Although activated carbon has high specific surface area, its fine particles are also easy to be adsorbed in the texture of the palm, causing secondary pollution. Therefore, the removal rate of activated carbon is the lowest. Adding 1% (w/w) inactivated spores to the soap base can remove 95% of the dust pollution, and the removal rate of heavy metals can be increased from 90% to more than 95% by secondary washing. In the sensory evaluation, the palm of the hand after being washed is still not clean enough because of the adsorption of black activated carbon, and the impression is the worst; the cleaning effect of diatomite soap is close to that of daily household soap, and the impression is in the middle; the cleaning effect of spore-added soap has the most obvious cleaning effect, and the impression is the best. There are various functional groups on the microbial spore wall, such as amino acid residues, lipids and proteins, which may play an important role in the cleaning of heavy metals. In conclusion, a cleaning soap for mining dust based on microbial inactivated spores was developed, which could provide deep skin cleaning and effective removal of heavy metals and provide protection for skin health of workers in mining and metallurgy.

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    黄杜中药漱口液对牙周病相关菌的影响及作用机理研究
    Study on the effect and mechanism of Huangdu Chinese herbal mouthwash on periodontal disease-related bacteria
    王晓宇,王亚静,赵鑫,王雁雯,王宇,黄赞扬
    2022 (1):  20-27.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.004
    摘要 ( 293 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF(2239KB) ( 236 )  

    探究了黄杜中药漱口液对牙周病相关菌活性的影响及作用机理。分别以牙周病相关致病菌牙龈卟啉单胞菌(Porphyromonas gingivalis,P. gingivalis)和益生菌食窦魏斯氏菌(Weissella cibaria,W. cibaria)为受试菌,采用微量肉汤稀释法考察黄杜中药漱口液对P. gingivalisW. cibaria活性的影响,结果显示其对致病菌P. gingivalis具有显著的抑制作用(稳定期生长率<20%),对益生菌W. cibaria基本无抑制(稳定期生长率>80%)。通过考察细胞壁、细胞膜的完整性及能量代谢酶的活性进一步探究黄杜中药漱口液对受试菌的作用机理,结果显示,P. gingivalis胞外碱性磷酸酶(AKP)、K+、核酸、蛋白质含量显著升高(P<0.01),能量代谢酶琥珀酸脱氢酶(SDH)、苹果酸脱氢酶(MDH)活性显著下降(P<0.01),而对W. cibaria无显著影响(P>0.05)。推断出黄杜中药漱口液通过破坏致病菌P. gingivalis细胞膜、细胞壁完整性,扰乱能量代谢系统发挥抑菌作用,而对益生菌W. cibaria基本无影响,提示其可提高口腔益生菌的相对占比,改善口腔菌群,对牙周病的防治发挥积极作用。

    The effect and mechanism of Huangdu Chinese herbal mouthwash on the activity of periodontal disease-related bacteria were explored. Periodontal disease-related pathogen Porphyromonas gingivalis and probiotic Weissella cibaria were selected as the indicator bacteria. The effect of Huangdu Chinese herbal mouthwash on the activity of P. gingivalis and W. cibaria was investigated by microbroth dilution method. From the perspective of the cell structure, the regulatory mechanism of Huangdu mouthwash on these two indicators was further investigated by detecting the integrity of cell wall and cell membrane and the activity of energy-metabolism enzymes. The results show that Huangdu mouthwash has significant inhibitory effect on pathogenic bacteria P. gingivalis (growth rate in stable period <20%), and almost no inhibition on probiotic W. cibaria (growth rate in stable period >80%). While cetylpyridinium chloride mouthwash significantly inhibits the growth of pathogen P. gingivalis and probiotic W. cibaria, which is almost in the lag phase (growth rate <10%) within 24 hours. Compared with the control group, the content of extracellular AKP, K+, nucleic acid and protein of pathogenic bacteria P. gingivalis is significantly increased (P<0.01), while the activities of energy-metabolism enzymes SDH and MDH are significantly decreased by 19.84% and 10.31% (P<0.01), but no significant effect on W. cibariaP>0.05) is observed in the case of Huangdu mouthwash. It can be concluded that Huangdu mouthwash has bacteriostatic effect by destroying the integrity of cell membrane and cell wall of P. gingivalis and disturbing the energy-metabolism system, but it has little effect on probiotic W. cibaria. However, cetylpyridinium chloride mouthwash has both reduce the activities of pathogen and probiotic by destroying cell membrane and cell wall. The present work suggests that the Huangdu Chinese herbal mouthwash can increase the relative proportion of oral probiotics, improve oral flora, and thus provide a feasible reference for the prevention and treatment of periodontal disease.

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    SiO2包覆TiO2复合纳米粒子的制备及防晒性能研究
    Preparation of SiO2-encapsulated TiO2 composite nanoparticles and evaluation of the sunscreen performance
    张亚如,刘冬,张云,陈昊,曹玉华
    2022 (1):  28-34.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.005
    摘要 ( 510 )   HTML ( 39 )   PDF(1402KB) ( 763 )  

    通过溶胶-凝胶法在金红石型纳米二氧化钛(TiO2)表面包覆二氧化硅(SiO2)薄膜,对纳米TiO2进行表面改性。通过优化聚乙烯吡咯烷酮(PVP)用量、硅钛比、氨水的用量确定最佳制备条件为:TiO2用量为0.3 g,PVP用量为0.4 g,硅钛比为2∶1,氨水用量为5 mL,获得了粒径小,SiO2包覆层薄,单分散性好的SiO2-TiO2复合纳米粒子。应用FT-IR,XRD,SEM,TEM和UV-vis等对改性前后的粒子进行表征。结果表明:红外光谱图中出现Si-O-Ti键的振动吸收峰,改性前后的纳米TiO2均为金红石型,SEM及TEM显示改性后的粒子团聚现象减弱,其表面形成了约10 nm的SiO2薄膜。经过表面改性,SiO2成功包覆在纳米TiO2表面,复合纳米粒子的光催化活性得到有效抑制,纳米TiO2作为防晒剂的安全性大大提高。将其制成基础防晒霜后,复合纳米粒子的SPF值提高了40%,防晒性能得到明显改善。

    The rutile TiO2 nanoparticles were encapsulated with silicon dioxide (SiO2) film by sol-gel method. The preparation conditions were optimized by investigating the dosage of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), the molar ratio of silicon to titanium, and the dosage of aqueous ammonia. The optimized preparation conditions are as follows: the mass of TiO2 is 0.3 g, PVP dosage is 0.4 g, the molar ratio of silicon to titanium is 2∶1, and the dosage of aqueous ammonia is 5 mL. The SiO2-TiO2 composite nanoparticles with small size, thin SiO2 coatings and good monodispersity were thus obtained. The modified nanoparticles were characterized by FT-IR, XRD, SEM, TEM and UV-Vis. The results show that, the vibration absorption peak of Si-O-Ti bond appears at 963 cm-1 in IR spectrum of SiO2-TiO2 composite nanoparticles, which confirms that the surface of TiO2 nanoparticles are coated by SiO2 though covalent binding between Si-OH and Ti-OH to form Si-O-Ti. XRD analysis indicates that, several diffraction peaks attributed to rutile TiO2 still exist after the superficial modification of TiO2 nanoparticles by SiO2, and no new diffraction peaks exist. The TiO2 nanoparticles before and after modification are both rutile type. SEM and TEM show that the modified composite nanoparticles are more regular, and the particle size is approximately 50 nm. Moreover, the agglomeration phenomenon of composite nanoparticles is weakened, and the SiO2 film of thickness of approximately 10 nm is formed on the surface. Therefore, the surface of TiO2 nanoparticles has been successfully modified by SiO2 coatings. The photocatalytic activity of TiO2 nanoparticles and SiO2-TiO2 composite nanoparticles was tested by photodegradation of methylene blue as a probe reaction. The results show that, after surface modification, the photocatalytic activity of composite nanoparticles is effectively inhibited, and the safety of SiO2-TiO2 composite nanoparticles as a sunscreen is greatly improved. The results of UV reflectance show that, after surface modification, the UV transmittance of SiO2-TiO2 composite nanoparticles has been decreased, i.e., the UV blocking ability is enhanced. After introducing the composite nanoparticles into a basic formula of sunscreen, the SPF value of SiO2-TiO2 composite nanoparticles reaches 43.76, which is increased by 40% than that by adding TiO2 nanoparticles into the basic formula of sunscreen, and the sun protection performance is significantly improved.

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    壮药菲牛蛭提取物的美白作用及其机制初探
    Study of whitening effect and the mechanism of Zhuang medicine Poecilobdella manillensis extract
    何瑞源,王硕,韦桂丽,龚小妹,吴佩莹,缪剑华
    2022 (1):  35-43.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.006
    摘要 ( 335 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF(1160KB) ( 231 )  

    研究壮药菲牛蛭提取物的美白作用及其机制。采用MTT法检测菲牛蛭提取物对黑色素瘤细胞(B16)的增殖抑制作用;采用分光光度法检测菲牛蛭提取物对B16细胞酪氨酸酶(TYR)活力和黑色素合成的影响以及对DPPH、·OH和·O2-三种自由基的清除能力和总抗氧化能力;采用紫外线照射法建立裸鼠皮肤色素沉着模型,Masson-Fontana银染法显示皮肤黑色素分布,并测定血清中TYR、超氧化物歧化酶(SOD)、丙二醛(MDA)、α-促黑色素生长激素(α-MSH)、碱性成纤维细胞生长因子(bFGF)、神经生长因子(NGF)、白介素(IL-1α)、肿瘤坏死因子(TNF-α)和γ-干扰素(IFN-γ)的水平。实验结果表明,菲牛蛭提取物能明显抑制B16细胞增殖和TYR活力,降低胞内黑色素含量;具有较强的清除自由基能力;能显著减少裸鼠皮肤中黑色素细胞的数量,提高裸鼠血清中SOD含量,降低MDA、α-MSH、bFGF、NGF、IL-1α、TNF-α和IFN-γ含量及TYR活力。壮药菲牛蛭提取物具有较好的美白作用,其作用机制可能与抑制TYR活性及抗氧化作用有关。

    This research was aimed to study the whitening effect and mechanism of Zhuang medicine Poecilobdella manillensis extract. MTT method was used to detect the inhibitory effect of Poecilobdella manillensis extract on the proliferation of melanoma cells (B16). Spectrophotometry was used to detect the effect of Poecilobdella manillensis extract on TYR activity and melanin synthesis in B16 cells, and the scavenging ability of DPPH, ·OH and ·O2- free radicals and the total antioxidant capacity were also detected. Based on an ultraviolet-irradiated nude mice skin pigmentation model, Masson Fontana silver staining was used to show the distribution of melanin in skin, and the levels of TYR, SOD, MDA, α-MSH, bFGF, NGF, IL-1α, TNF-α and IFN-γ in serum were also measured. The results show that the IC50 of B16 cells proliferation are 230.66, 109.70, 53.18 μg/mL after Poecilobdella manillensis extract treatment at 24, 48 and 72 h, respectively. The IC50 of arbutin at 24, 48 and 72 h are 1.11, 1.40 and 1.30 times higher than those of Poecilobdella manillensis extract, respectively. The non-cytotoxic concentration of Poecilobdella manillensis extract could significantly increase the tyrosinase activity and melanin content of B16 cells. The Poecilobdella manillensis extract has strong antioxidant ability in vitro. The IC50 of DPPH, ·OH and ·O2- free radicals are 0.37, 0.38 and 0.43 g/L, respectively. The total antioxidant capacity of 0.8 g/L Poecilobdella manillensis extract is equivalent to 1.0 g/L vitamin E. Poecilobdella manillensis extract could significantly reduce the number of melanocytes in skin of nude mice, increase the content of SOD in serum, decrease the contents of MDA, α-MSH, bFGF, NGF, IL-1α, TNF-α and IFN-γ and TYR activity. Zhuang medicine Poecilobdella manillensis extract has a good whitening effect, and its mechanism may be related to the inhibition of tyrosinase activity and antioxidation capacity.

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    茶麸黄酮促进毛乳头细胞增殖和VEGF分泌的研究
    Study on the promotion of proliferation of dermal papilla cells and VEGF secretion by flavonoids from camellia seed cake
    沈胡驰,陈殿松,杨井国,王靖
    2022 (1):  44-49.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.007
    摘要 ( 228 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF(1546KB) ( 322 )  

    以脱脂茶麸为原料,通过乙醇水溶液超声波辅助提取脱脂茶麸中的黄酮,探究其生物活性。用不同质量浓度含茶麸黄酮溶液作用于体外培养的人毛乳头细胞(HDPCs),四甲基偶氮唑蓝(MTT)法测定细胞活性,并通过流式细胞术检测茶麸黄酮对细胞凋亡、周期的影响以及ELISA法检测细胞培养上清液中血管内皮生长因子(VEGF)的变化。结果表明,茶麸黄酮富集产物对HDPCs具有增殖作用,质量浓度20 μg/mL时增殖效果最佳,比10 μg/mL米诺地尔阳性对照效果显著(**P<0.01)。茶麸中黄酮可能是通过减少HDPCs的早凋,促进HDPCs的有丝分裂从而对细胞的增殖发生作用。茶麸黄酮富集产物对HDPCs的VEGF分泌呈现浓度依赖性。

    Defatted camellia seed cake was used as raw material, and the flavonoids therein were extracted with aqueous ethanol solution with the aid of ultrasonic wave to explore their biological activity. Different mass concentrations of camellia seed cake flavonoids were applied to human dermal papilla cells (HDPCs) cultured in vitro, and the cell viability was determined by MTT method. The effects on apoptosis and cell cycle were detected by flow cytometry. ELISA method was used to detect the change of vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) in cell culture supernatant. The results showed that flavonoid-enriched product of camellia seed cake had a proliferation effect on HDPCs and could promote the secretion of VEGF in a concentration-dependent manner. The proliferation effect was the best when the concentration of flavonoid-enriched product was 20 μg/mL, which was more effective than the positive control of 10 μg/mL minoxidil (**P<0.01). The flavonoids in camellia seed cake might reduce the premature apoptosis of HDPCs and promote the mitosis of HDPCs and thus lead to an effect on their proliferation.

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    复合活性物促进毛发生长作用的研究
    Study on the hair-growth promotion effect of Complex active substance
    李洪海,韩萍,马诗经,向琴,汤仲标,杜志云
    2022 (1):  50-55.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.008
    摘要 ( 322 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF(1068KB) ( 283 )  

    以黄芪多糖为主要原料制备成复合活性物,通过体外细胞和动物实验测定复合活性物的抗炎及促进毛发生长活性,并初步分析其作用机制。结果显示,本实验方法制备的黄芪多糖含量为86.21%,动物实验结果显示复合活性物显著增加小鼠脱发区皮肤的毛囊数目和真皮层厚度(p<0.05),延长毛发生长期的时间,其作用机制可能是通过下调TGF-β1、IL-1β的表达延缓毛囊进入休止期,同时上调皮肤组织中VEGF的表达,促进毛发生长功效。此外,通过体外细胞实验结果发现复合活性物、黄芪多糖在设定浓度下为实际无细胞毒性,同时对脂多糖(LPS)诱导的NO、IL-1β具有显著呈浓度依赖性抑制作用,提示复合活性物及黄芪多糖具有良好的抗炎活性。进一步发现,复合活性物对抑制LPS诱导RAW264.7细胞产生的IL-1β分泌效果,显著缩短脱毛小鼠皮肤长出毛发的时间、增加真皮厚度以及抑制TGF-β1表达,均优于单一黄芪多糖,说明复合活性物组分可能存在协同增效作用。

    Astragalus polysaccharide (APS) was used as the main raw material to prepare the Complex active substance (CAS). The anti-inflammatory and hair-growth promoting activities of CAS were determined by in vitro cell and animal experiments, and the mechanism of action was preliminarily analyzed. The results showed that the content of APS prepared by this method was 86.21%. The results of animal experiment showed that the CAS significantly increased the number of hair follicles and the thickness of the dermis in the alopecia area of mice (p<0.05), and prolonged the hair growth period. The mechanism might be that the expression of TGF-β1 and IL-1β could be down-regulated to delay hair follicles entering the resting period, and the expression of VEGF in skin tissue could be up-regulated to promote hair-follicle angiogenesis, improve nutrient absorption of hair follicles and thus play a role in promoting hair growth. In addition, the results of in vitro cell experiments showed that the CAS and APS had no cytotoxicity at the investigated concentration, and showed significant concentration-dependent inhibitory effects on LPS-induced NO and IL-1β, suggesting that CAS and APS had good anti-inflammatory activity. Compared with Astragalus polysaccharide, CAS could significantly shorten the time taking for hair growth on the hair-removed skin in mice, and could significantly increase the thickness of the dermis and the number of follicles. Furthermore, CAS could significantly inhibit TGF-β1 expression compared with APS. The animal experiments confirmed that the CAS could inhibit inflammation factor and promote hair growth, which was better than single Astragalus polysaccharides. Moreover, the components of the CAS might have synergistic effects. In conclusion, the CAS could effectively inhibit the inflammatory reaction and promote hair growth, which could be used as active ingredients in daily cosmetics with functions of relieving skin inflammation, preventing hair loss, hair conditioning and hair care.

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    基于皮肤本态数据库的中青年女性面部皮肤综合状态评价模型构建
    Construction of a comprehensive evaluation model for the facial skin of young and middle-aged women based on the Chinese female skin database
    杨笑笑,李泽巧,张宝江,赵梦梦,王梓旭,杜一杰,易帆
    2022 (1):  56-61.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.009
    摘要 ( 445 )   HTML ( 25 )   PDF(1081KB) ( 1823 )  

    从中国女性皮肤本态数据库(北京工商大学)中随机抽取22~42岁女性志愿者1 085例,采集志愿者的皮肤数据,通过相关性分析初步降噪,得到皮肤状态核心指标,并采用KMO检验和巴利特球形检验方法进行检验。根据主成分分析法计算评价模型的各项系数,最终构建皮肤状态综合评价模型。皮肤状态相关的核心指标包括:年龄、皮肤总弹性、皮肤光泽度、黑色素含量、血红素含量、水分含量、经皮水分散失量、肤色ITA°、油脂含量、毛孔数量等10项。该模型对女性的综合皮肤状态给予客观的量化判定,弥补了肉眼判断受到的周围环境以及个人主观意识的影响,解决了皮肤评价的时空限制,采集相关指标数据即可对女性皮肤进行有效评价。研究结果可为女性皮肤状态综合判定提供技术支持。

    The changes in the appearance of facial skin are an obvious physiological phenomenon in the process of human aging. People are increasingly concerned about the comprehensive skin status. In recent years, newly developed instruments or methods have continuously emerged in the field of non-invasive skin testing. Skin testing and skin photography are the most widely used. Through the analysis of skin testing and skin photography data, objective and true skin data can be obtained to quantify the skin status. Therefore, it is necessary and feasible to establish a new comprehensive skin condition evaluation model to achieve objective and accurate quantification of skin status. Herein, 1,085 female volunteers aged 22-42 were randomly selected from the Chinese Female Skin Testing Database (Beijing Technology and Business University). The data of skin physiological indicators, VISIA front face and left face cross-polarized light image data (extracted by machine learning algorithms) were collected for correlation analysis between indicators and principal component analysis (PCA) to obtain the core indicators for evaluating individual skin status. KMO test and Bartlett’s test sphere test were used to test the reliability of the principal component data, and the coefficients of each item in the evaluation model were calculated by the method of principal component analysis. There were 10 core indicators related to skin conditions, including age, skin elasticity, skin glossiness, melanin content, heme content, skin moisture content, transdermal water loss, ITA°, sebum secretion, and pores. Eventually, a comprehensive skin status evaluation model was constructed, and the quantified skin score could be obtained by inputting the data of skin physiological indicators into the model. This model gives an objective quantitative judgment on the comprehensive skin condition of women, which avoids the influences of the surrounding environment and the personal subjective consciousness from the naked eye judgment and solves the limitation of time and space for skin evaluation. Collecting relevant index data can be effective on women’s skin evaluation. The research results can provide technical support for comprehensive evaluation of women’s skin status.

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    专论与综述
    全氟辛酸污染及其检测技术研究进展
    Research progress in the detection techniques of PFOA pollution
    范维刚
    2022 (1):  62-68.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.010
    摘要 ( 480 )   HTML ( 25 )   PDF(1083KB) ( 500 )  

    简要概述了全氟辛酸的物理性质、化学性质和主要应用领域,介绍了自然环境中全氟辛酸的来源、对生物体的危害以及污染现状,简单综述了全氟辛酸主要的四种前处理技术:液液萃取、固相萃取、加速溶剂萃取、超声萃取。着重对高效液相色谱法、液相色谱-质谱联用法、气相色谱法及气相色谱-质谱联用法在全氟辛酸浓度检测上的应用进行了综述,并对这些方法的优点和缺点进行了总结。从目前的文献来看,采用液相色谱-质谱联用法分析检测环境中或产品中的全氟辛酸较为广泛,这种方法不需要对样品进行衍生处理,而且分析速度快、回收率高、选择性好。最后对如何治理环境中全氟辛酸的污染提出了一些建议,为我国建立全氟辛酸污染控制现实可行的措施提供了一些思路。

    The physical and chemical properties and main application fields of perfluorooctanoic acid were briefly reviewed. The source of perfluorooctanoic acid in natural environment, the harm to organisms and the pollution status were introduced. Four main pretreatment technologies of perfluorooctanoic acid were briefly reviewed, i.e., liquid-liquid extraction, solid phase extraction, accelerated solvent extraction and ultrasonic extraction. The applications of high performance liquid chromatography, liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry, gas chromatography and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry in the determination of perfluorooctanoic acid concentration were emphatically reviewed, and the advantages and disadvantages of these methods were summarized. According to the current literature, the method of liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS) for the determination of perfluorooctanoic acid in the environment or in products has been widely used, which does not require the derivation of samples and exhibits fast analysis speed, high recovery rate and good selectivity. Finally, some suggestions on how to control the pollution of perfluorooctanoic acid in the environment were put forward, and some ideas were provided for the establishment of practical and feasible measures to control the pollution of perfluorooctanoic acid in China.

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    喷雾型防晒化妆品的国际法规动态和技术监管讨论
    A review on international regulatory progress and technical supervision of spray-sunscreen
    苏哲,高家敏,李琳,钮正睿,李娅萍,张凤兰,王钢力
    2022 (1):  69-76.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.011
    摘要 ( 351 )   HTML ( 79 )   PDF(1075KB) ( 341 )  

    分析了我国喷雾型防晒化妆品的发展趋势,综述了欧盟、美国、澳大利亚、韩国等国家和地区的监管动态和法规要求,对此类产品的原料使用和生产工艺、理化检验、毒理学试验、防晒功效测试、产品安全评估、使用方法和标签管理等相关技术要点进行了分析和讨论,并提出了监管建议,对喷雾型防晒化妆品在监管科学下的精细化管理进行了总结和展望。

    In this study, the developmental trends of spray-sunscreen cosmetics in China were analyzed. The international regulatory trends and regulatory requirements in the Europe Union, the United States, Australia and Korea were reviewed, and the technical key points were analyzed and discussed in detail, such as ingredients and production, physical and chemical testing, toxicological testing, efficacy testing, product safety assessment, application method and labeling management. A series of administrative suggestions for supervision are put forward. The fine management of spray sunscreen cosmetics under supervision science is summarized and prospected.

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    化妆品常用肤感改良粉体的性质与发展趋势
    Properties and development trend of commonly used cosmetic powder for improving skin feeling
    薛绘,杨盼盼,吕旭阳,韩丹,陈金龙,蒋丽刚
    2022 (1):  77-83.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.012
    摘要 ( 799 )   HTML ( 50 )   PDF(1035KB) ( 634 )  

    随着彩妆产品的蓬勃发展,体质粉体由于可以调节化妆品铺展性、吸附性、贴肤性、质感、淡化视觉焦点,应用越来越广泛,涵盖护肤、防晒、彩妆等领域,受到越来越多美妆品牌的重视。本文首先简要介绍了硅石、滑石粉、云母粉、聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯、聚甲基硅倍半氧烷、硅弹性体粉、尼龙粉、聚氨酯粉及淀粉等肤感改良粉体,对以上粉体的表面形态、粒径、吸油值及肤感特点等性质进行归纳总结,并阐述肤感改良粉体的应用现状,然后对复合粉体与传统粉体的特点进行比较得知,随着市场的不断发展,复合粉体的附加性能更能满足现代化妆品在肤感、功效上越来越高的要求,最后对肤感改良粉体的发展趋势进行了预测,复合粉体会越来越精细化、针对性越来越强、使用会越来越便利,在护肤、防晒、彩妆等不同类型的产品选择肤感改良粉体时,不仅需要从粉体表面形态、粒径、吸油值、肤感特点等方面去综合考虑,多功能复合粉体未来会发挥越来越大的作用。

    With the vigorous development of color cosmetics, physical powder has been more and more widely used because it can adjust the spread, absorption, skin adhesion, texture, and fade the visual focus of cosmetics. It is applied more and more widely in all fields, covering skin care, sunscreen, make up, and is paid more and more attention by beauty brands. In this paper, silica, talcum powder, mica powder, polymethyl methacrylate, polymethylsilsesquioxane, silicon elastomer powder, nylon powder, polyurethane powder and starch were briefly introduced. The surface morphology, particle size, oil absorption value and skin feeling’s characteristics of the above powders were summarized, and the application status of skin feeling improved powders was described. Silica, as a spherical powder with smooth skin and high hardness, can absorb oil and water; talc is a layered structure with a certain covering power and strong adhesion; mica is flake structure with outstanding skin adhesion and luster; polymethylmethacrylate is softer than silica and can selectively absorb sebum; polymethylsesimiloxane is a matte spherical powder with uniform particle size distribution; silicon elastomer powder is a spherical powder with strong oil absorption, good soft coking effect; nylon’s hardness is lower than polymethylmethacrylate and its skin feel is soft; polyurethane’s hardness is lower than nylon and it has strong elasticity and cushion feeling; starch has strong smoothness and can reduce the greasy feeling. Then the characteristics of composite powder and traditional powder are compared. With the continuous development of the market, the additional performance of composite powder can better meet the higher requirements of modern cosmetics in skin feeling and efficacy. Finally, the development trend of improved skin feeling powder was predicted. The experience of composite powder is more refined, and the pertinence is stronger. When choosing the skin feeling improved powders, it is not only necessary to comprehensively consider the surface morphology, particle size, oil absorption value and skin feeling characteristics of the powder, but also the multi-functional composite powder will play an increasingly important role in future.

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    分析与检测
    气相色谱-质谱/质谱法测定美白化妆品中5种酚类物质
    Determination of five phenolics compounds in whitening cosmetics by gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry
    肖昭竞,童兰艳,李根容,代政华,周朝旭,余文琴
    2022 (1):  84-90.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.013
    摘要 ( 438 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF(1716KB) ( 380 )  

    建立了同时测定化妆品中苯酚、氢醌、间苯二酚、4-丁基间苯二酚和苯乙基间苯二酚5种酚类物质的气相色谱-质谱/质谱(GC-MS/MS)检测方法。样品在0.03 mol/L磷酸二氢钾溶液中超声提取,经HLB固相萃取小柱净化后,过0.22 μm有机滤膜,采用GC-MS/MS分析。选择SH-Rtx-1701(30 m×0.25 mm×0.25 μm)色谱柱分离,采用EI离子源电离、MRM采集模式,外标法定量。结果表明,5种酚类物质在10 min内完成色谱分离,检出限和定量限分别为1.5~3.0 μg/L和5.0~10.0 μg/L,5种酚类物质在5~200 μg/L范围线性良好,相关系数均大于0.9994,以阴性样品为基质,在不同添加水平下,5种酚类物质的平均回收率为73.5%~111.8%,相对标准偏差(RSD,n=6)在1.0%~11.1%之间。本方法分析时间短,灵敏度好,准确性高、操作方便、净化效果好,可同时测定化妆品中5种酚类物质。

    A method based on gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS) was developed for the analysis of 5 phenolics compounds (phenol, hydroquineone, resorcinol, 4-butylresorciol, phenylethyl resorciol) in cosmetics. The phenolics compounds were extracted from cosmetics by supersonic extraction with 0.03 mol/L potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, purified by HLB solid phase extraction column, and analyzed via GC-MS/MS after filtration with organic filtration membrane (0.22 μm). Separation was performed on a SH-Rtx-1701MS chromatographic column (30 m×0.25 mm×0.25 μm) by GC-MS/MS with an electrospray ionization (EI) source in the MRM mode. The external standard method was used for quantitative determination. The 5 phenolics compounds can be analyzed within 10 min under the optimum conditions, and it exhibits a good linearity with the standard correlation coefficients (R2) of not less than 0.999 in their respective concentration ranges of 5-200 μg/L. The limited of determination (LODs) are 1.5-3.0 μg/L and the limits of quantitation (LOQs) are 5.0-10.0 μg/L, respectively. The recoveries at three standards are 73.5%-111.8%, and the relative standard deviations (RSDs) are between 1.0% and 11.1% (n=6). The proposed method is accurate, reliable, simple and convenient, and is suitable for determination of phenol whitening active components in cosmetics.

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    高效液相色谱-串联质谱法测定婴幼儿化妆品中微量丙烯酰胺
    Determination of acrylamide residue in baby cosmetics by HPLC-MS/MS
    邵方娴,李耕,陈民辉
    2022 (1):  91-97.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.014
    摘要 ( 278 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF(1065KB) ( 330 )  

    建立液液萃取法-HPLC-MS/MS法测定不同化妆品基质中丙烯酰胺的残留量。以ACE EXCEL 3 C18-AR(100×4.6 mm,3 μm)为固定相,以乙腈-0.1%甲酸水为流动相,等度洗脱,样品采用二氯甲烷-0.1%甲酸水溶液进行液液萃取,取上清液进行HPLC-MS/MS测定,ESI正离子扫描,MRM监测,以保留时间及相对丰度比定性,内标法测定丙烯酰胺的残留量。结果表明,在三类不同基质的化妆品中丙烯酰胺质量浓度在2.5~2 500 μg/L范围内均具有良好的线性关系,相关系数(r)均大于0.995,不同质量浓度水平下的回收率为86.9%~113.5%,精密度为0.6%~10.4%,定量限均为0.025 mg/kg,油状和乳状基质中检出限为0.005 mg/kg,膏霜类基质中为0.008 mg/kg。该方法准确可靠,适用于不同基质化妆品中丙烯酰胺残留量的测定。

    To establish a liquid-liquid extraction HPLC-MS/MS method for the identification and quantification of acrylamide in three cosmetics matrixes. The cosmetics were dissolved in dichloromethane and the acrylamide was extracted with 0.1% formic acid. The extracted solution was separated on an ACE EXCEL 3 C18-AR (100×4.6 mm, 3 μm) chromatographic column with a mixture of 0.1% formic acid and acetonitrile as mobile phase for isocratic elution and detected with a triple quadrupole mass analyzer using ESI with positive ionization. Ions was monitored in the multiple reaction mode. The acrylamide was identified with relative retention time and ion abundance ratio, and quantified by internal standard method. The established method showed a good linearity in the mass concentration range of 2.5-2 500 μg/L with a LOQ of 0.025 mg/kg for acrylamide in three kinds of cosmetics matrix. The LOD of oil and emulsion matrix were 0.005 mg/kg, and the LOD of cream-like matrix was 0.008 mg/kg. The extraction recovery and precision were 86.9%-113.5% and 0.6%-10.4%, respectively. The established liquid-liquid extraction HPLC-MS/MS method is proved to be accurate and sensitive, and can be applied to determine acrylamide in different cosmetic products.

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    高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中依克多因的含量
    Determination of the content of ectoine in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography
    唐毓萍,王艳旗,李慧良
    2022 (1):  98-102.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.015
    摘要 ( 1346 )   HTML ( 40 )   PDF(1190KB) ( 605 )  

    建立高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中依克多因的分析方法,采用Agilent Poroshell 120 EC-C18色谱柱(100 mm×3.0 mm,2.7 μm)分离,以甲醇和pH为3.0的40 mmol/L磷酸二氢钠-10 mmol/L 1-庚烷磺酸钠缓冲溶液梯度洗脱,流速0.8 mL/min,柱温30 ℃,检测波长210 nm。采用外标法定量测定化妆品中的依克多因含量。结果表明,依克多因在5~800 mg/L的质量浓度范围内呈现良好线性关系,相关系数为0.999 8,方法的检出限和定量限分别为0.3和1.0 mg/L。该方法具有分离效率高、分析时间短、节省溶剂等优点,解决了依克多因在C18色谱柱上保留弱的问题。

    A method for the determination of ectoine in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) was established. Agilent Poroshell 120 EC-C18 column (100 mm×3.0 mm, 2.7 μm)was used for sample analysis. Methanol and 40 mmol/L sodium dihydrogen phosphate-10 mmol/L sodium 1-heptanesulfonate solution (adjusted pH to 3.0 by phoshporic acid) were used as mobile phases for gradient elution, with a flow rate of 0.8 mL/min. The temperature of the column was 30 ℃. Samples were quantitated by diode array detector at 210 nm with external standard method. Result shows that the standard working curve of ectoine has good linear relationship in the range of 5-800 mg/L. The limit of detection and quantitation is 0.3 and 1.0 mg/L, respectively. The method has the advantages of high separation efficiency, short analysis time, and solvent cost saving. It solves the problem of ectoine retaining on C18 chromatography column.

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    高效液相色谱法同时检测染发类化妆品中5种限用染料
    Simultaneous determination of 5 restricted dyes in hair dyeing cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography
    杨淡梅,石兴红,罗金梅,符秋美,邱颖姮,邬晓鸥,王晓炜
    2022 (1):  103-108.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.016
    摘要 ( 252 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF(1106KB) ( 255 )  

    建立了染发类化妆品中1-羟乙基-4,5-二氨基吡唑硫酸盐等5种限用染料含量检测的高效液相色谱分析方法。样品经提取,过滤后,采用Agilent ZORBAX SB-C18色谱柱(250 mm×4.6 mm,5 μm)分离,以甲醇为流动相A,5 mmol/L乙酸铵溶液为流动相B,梯度洗脱,流速为1.0 mL/min,柱温为30 ℃,二极管阵列检测器检测,标准曲线法定量。结果表明,5种限用染料的线性相关系数均大于0.999,低、中、高3种加标水平下5种限用染料的平均回收率为92.5%~106.0%,相对标准偏差为0.5%~4.1%。

    A high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method for the determination of 5 restricted dyes in hair dyeing cosmetics was established. The sample was extracted and filtered, separated by an Agilent ZORBAX SB-C18 column (250 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm), and gradient elution with methanol as mobile phase A and 5 mmol/L ammonium acetate solution as mobile phase B. The elution was performed at a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min and the column temperature was set at 30 ℃. The analysis was done using photo-diode array detector. Standard curve method was used for quantification. The results show that the linear correlation coefficients of the five restricted dyes are all greater than 0.999. The average recoveries at three spiked levels of the five restricted dyes are in the range of 92.5%-106.0% with RSDs of 0.5%-4.1%.

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