流变学在化妆品领域的应用与研究进展

doi:10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2014.08.104

摘要/Abstract

摘要： 简要介绍了化妆品流变学的定义,系统综述了流变学在判断化妆品流体类型、化妆品生产、稳定性考察及肤感评价等方面的应用,重点阐述了流变学在表面活性剂、乳状液、凝胶等化妆品体系中的研究进展,指出了在未来开发化妆品过程中,通过流变学将微观结构和产品特性联系在一起的发展方向。

关键词: 化妆品, 流变学, 进展

Abstract: Definition for cosmetic rheology was briefed,and application of rheological principles for identification of fluid type,production,stability investigation and skin feel evaluation of cosmetics was summarized.Progress in the field of research work with respect to rheological principles in cosmetic systems such as surfactant formulations as well as emulsions and gels was expounded.It was pointed out that connection of micro-structure and product characteristics of cosmetics via rheological principles will be the trend in the future development process of cosmetic industry.

Key words: cosmetics, rheology, progress

中图分类号:

TQ658

贾红娇, 李芳芳, 缪玉莲, 张婉萍. 流变学在化妆品领域的应用与研究进展[J]. 日用化学工业, 2014, 44(8): 467-471.

JIA Hong-jiao, LI Fang-fang, MIAO Yu-lian, ZHANG Wan-ping. Application and research progress of rheology in the field of cosmetics[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2014, 44(8): 467-471.

参考文献

[1] 裘炳毅.化妆品和洗涤用品的流变特性[M].北京:化学工业出版社,2004:7-21.
[2] 刘海燕,庞明军,魏进家.非牛顿流体研究进展及发展趋势[J].应用化工,2010,39(5):740-746.
[3] 李盛彪,彭慧,孙争光,等.含氢聚硅氧烷/丙烯酸丁酯/丙烯酰胺聚合物乳液粒子的形成、大小与流变性研究[J].湖北大学学报:自然科学版,2000,22(3):274-276.
[4] 鲁德平,杨世芳,王汝兵,等.醋酸乙烯酯/丙烯酸丁酯/羟甲基丙烯酰胺三元共聚物乳液的流变性能[J].湖北大学学报:自然科学版,2002,24(1):66-68.
[5] ALAM M M,ARAMAKI K.Glycerol effects on the formation and rheology of hexagonal phase and related gel emulsion [J].Journal of Colloid and Interface Science,2009,336:820-826.
[6] 刘志东,郭本恒.食品流变学的研究进展[J].食品研究与开发,2006,27(11):211-215.
[7] 方波.关于构建轻化工程流变学知识结构的思考[J].化工高等教育,2011(1):46-49.
[8] 章苏宁.化妆品工艺学[M].北京:中国轻工业出版社,2007:81-83.
[9] MILLER D,WIENER E M,TUROWSKI A,et al.O/W emulsions for cosmetics products stabilized by alkyl phosphates-rheology and storage tests [J].Colloids Surfaces A:Physicochem Eng Aspects,1999,152:155-160.
[10] SAVARY G,GRISEL M,PICARD C.Impact of emollients on the spreading properties of cosmetic products:A combined sensory and instrumental characterization [J].Colloids and Surfaces B:Biointerfaces,2013,102:371-378.
[11] 王硕,董银卯,何聪芬,等.化妆品感官评价与流变学研究进展[J].香料香精化妆品,2011(1):42-46.
[12] LAURA G,GRALDINE S,MICHEL G.Predicting sensory texture properties of cosmetic emulsions by physical measurements [J].Chemometrics and Intelligent Laboratory Systems,2013,124:21-31.
[13] BRUMMER R,GODERSKY S.Rheological studies to objectify sensations occurring when cosmetic emulsions are applied to the skin [J].Colloids and Surfaces,1999,152:89-94.
[14] BEKKER M, WEBBER G V, LOUW N R. Relating rheological measurements to primary and secondary skin feeling when mineral-based and Fischer-Tropsch wax-based cosmetic emulsions and jellies are applied to the skin [J].International Journal of Cosmetic Science,2013,35:354-361.
[15] ALI A A,MAKHLOUFI R.Effect of organic salts on micellar growth and structure studied by rheology [J].Colloid Polym Sci,1999,277:270-275.
[16] 姜蓉,赵剑曦.两种联接链的季铵盐Gemini表面活性剂水溶液流变行为[J].物理化学学报,2003,19(8):766-769.
[17] JDAYIL B A,MOHAMEED H A,SAID M,et al.Rheological characterization of hair shampoo in the presence of dead sea salt [J].International Journal of Cosmetic Science,2004,26:19-29.
[18] 魏进家,川口靖夫,宇波,等.表面活性剂溶液内部微观结构和流变特性研究[J].工程热物理学学报,2008,29(5):803-806.
[19] BERRET J F,CORRALES R G,LEROUGE S,et al.Shear-thicke-ning transition in surfactant solutions:New experimental features from rheology and flow birefringence [J].Eur Phys J E,2000,2:343-350.
[20] GALLEGOS C,FRANCO J M.Rheology of food,cosmetics and pharmaceuticals [J].Current Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science,1999,4:288-293.
[21] LUKIC M.Effect of small change in oil phase composition on rheological and textural properties of W/O emulsion [J].Journal of Texture Studies,2013,44:34-44.
[22] FORSTER A H,HERRINGTON T M.Rheology of two commercially available cosmetic oil in water emulsions [J].International Journal of Cosmetic Science,1998,20:317-326.
[23] FORSTER A H,HERRINGTON T M.Rheology of siloxane-stabilized water in silicone emulsions [J].International Journal of Cosmetic Science,1997,19:173-191.
[24] ANDRADE F F,SANTOS O D H,OLIVEIRA W P,et al.Influence of PEG-12 Dimethicone addition on stability and formation of emulsions containing liquid crystal [J].International Journal of Cosmetic Science,2007,29:211-218.
[25] 孟娟,吴广州.卡拉胶流变学特性及应用研究[J].粮食科技与经济,2012,37(6):25-27.
[26] 白羽,李程鹏,张黎明.pH敏感瓜胶一聚丙烯酸水凝胶的流变和溶胀性能研究[J].精细化工中间体,2007,37(6):58-64.
[27] SAMAVATI V,DJOMEH Z E,MOHAMMADIFAR M A,et al.Stability and rheology of dispersions containing polysaccharide,oleic acid and whey protein isolate [J].Journal of Texture Studies,2012,43:63-76.
[28] 段洪东,孟霞,秦大伟,等.流变学法研究交联聚合物凝胶的抗剪切性能[J].应用化学,2006,23(7):743-746.