Table of Content

22 January 2021, Volume 51 Issue 1 Previous Issue    Next Issue

Basic research

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Study on the influence factors of Pickering emulsions stabilized by ultrafine pearl powder ZHANG Qian-jie,SHEN Xing-liang,ZHANG Wan-ping 2021, 51 (1):  1-9.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.01.001 Abstract ( 443 )   HTML ( 149 )   PDF (2372KB) ( 494 )   In this paper, Pickering emulsions with excellent stability was prepared by ultrafine pearl powder. The effects of pearl powder dosage, oil-water mass ratio and aqueous inorganic salt concentration on the formation and stability of Pickering emulsions were systematically investigated. The results show that the stability of the emulsion increases with the increase of the mass fraction of ultrafine pearl powder, and the preferred addition amount is 2.5%. Ultrafine pearl powder has the potential to prepare high internal phase Pickering emulsions with a maximum oil-water mass ratio of 8∶2. With the increase of the oil-water mass ratio, the stability of the emulsion is firstly enhanced and then weakened, which reaches the highest centrifugal stability when the oil-water ratio is 4∶6. The stability of the emulsion is not affected obviously when the concentration of sodium chloride in aqueous phase is low. The centrifugal stability of the emulsion increases when the concentration of sodium chloride is 20 mmol/L and decreases as sodium chloride concentration continues to increase. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Lecture of science and technology

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Botanical cosmetic ingredients （I） Research and development in sunscreen cosmetics REN Qian-qian,SUN Xu,LI Nan,WU Hua,JIN Jian-ming 2021, 51 (1):  10-16.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.01.002 Abstract ( 721 )   HTML ( 39 )   PDF (1161KB) ( 580 )   Excessive exposure to the ultraviolet radiation can cause dark skin color, sunburn and light aging, and can increase the risk of skin cancer. The use of sunscreen cosmetics can be very useful in reducing such injury. However, organic sunscreen agents tend to be allergenic, while inorganic sunscreen agents make people feel bad and have inhalation hazard. Therefore, plant extracts with sunscreening effect are being widely explored. The main mechanism of UV damage to the skin are sunburn and photoaging. The plant extracts that can be used in sunscreen cosmetics have been introduced. The effective components in plant extracts include flavonoids, phenylpropanoids, polyphenols and carotenoids which contain the benzene ring or conjugated structure. The article elaborates on them in detail, hoping to contribute to the development of natural sunscreen cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Development and application

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Effects of preparation conditions on the content of 1,4-dioxane in the product of narrow-distribution sodium fatty alcohol ether sulfate LI Jian-bo,YANG Xiao-yi,SUN Yong-qiang,GUO Chao-hua,LI Ping,REN Xiao-dan 2021, 51 (1):  17-20.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.01.003 Abstract ( 283 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (1066KB) ( 270 )   The content of 1,4-dioxane in narrow-distribution sodium fatty alcohol ether sulfate （narrow-distribution AES） was studied by using n（SO3）∶n（narrow-distribution fatty alcohol ether）, sulfation temperature, volume fraction of SO3, storage time and neutralization temperature as single-factor variables on a laboratory device of sulfur trioxide falling film sulfation. The results showed that, the content of 1,4-dioxane in narrow-distribution AES would increase with the increase of excess SO3, sulfation temperature, volume fraction of SO3, storage time of narrow-distribution fatty alcohol ether, and neutralization temperature. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Synthesis and properties of novel surfactants based on triethylene diamine CHU Jia-le,PAN Zhong-wen,XUAN Jun,WANG Han-bin 2021, 51 (1):  21-27.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.01.004 Abstract ( 348 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1247KB) ( 515 )   Triethylene diamine reacted with n-bromodecodecyl, tetradecane and cetane to obtain monoquaternary ammonium salt, and then reacted with ethyl chloroacetate to obtain a series of novel hetero surfactants（structural formula as BrCnH2n+1N（CH2CH2）3NCH2COO, n=12, 14, 16, named 3a, 3b, 3c） after alkaline hydrolysis and purification, with the total yield of 78.8%, 80.6% and 83.0% （based on triethylene diamine）, respectively. The structure was characterized by NMR, ESI-MS and FT-IR, and their surface properties and thermodynamic parameters were studied. The results showed that at 298.15K, the cmc values of 3a, 3b, 3c are 0.627, 0.576 and 0.502 mmol/L by the conductivity method （the empirical equation is cmc=1.005 3-0.031 25 n）; the γcmc values are 38.23, 37.83 and 36.65 mN/m by the hanging drop method （the empirical equation is γcmc =43.10-0.395 n）; the Krafft points are 6, 10 and 13 ℃, respectively. The temperature adaptation range is wide. The foaming and foam stability are good, in which the initial foam height of 3c is 100 mm and it drops to 61 mm after 30 min. The emulsification time are 260, 348, and 485 s, respectively. The calculation of thermodynamic parameters showed that the formation of micelles is an entropy-driven spontaneous exothermic process. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation and bacteriostatic properties of tea saponin hand sanitizer GAO Yuan,FU Xuan,YUAN Rui,MA Ying-jian,FENG Jian-guo,LIU Qi 2021, 51 (1):  28-31.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.01.005 Abstract ( 456 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF (960KB) ( 709 )   Tea saponin （TS） was used as the main bacteriostatic component, and fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether sulfate （AES） and cocoamidopropyl betaine （CAB） were used as surfactants. The formulation of bacteriostatic hand sanitizer was screened by single factor test, and the physicochemical indexes and bacteriostatic properties of the hand sanitizer were determined. The results show that the mass fraction of optimized TS hand sanitizer is composed of 15% TS, 10% AES, 20% CAB, 3% thickener 886 and 6502 （mass ratio 1∶1）, 3% glycerin, 0.1% flavor, 0.2% citric acid and residual deionized water. The hand sanitizer has moderate viscosity, excellent foaming performance and good bacteriostatic performance against Escherichia coli （E.coil） and Staphylococcus aureus （S.aureus）. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation of emulsified wax resistant to agitation for wood-based panels ZHANG Yan-wei,CHAI Guang-qing,WANG Yan-fei,YANG Li-guo,ZHENG Yong-jun 2021, 51 (1):  32-37.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.01.006 Abstract ( 325 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (1132KB) ( 410 )   A type of agitation-resistant emulsified wax was prepared where the 58# semi-refined wax was used as raw material and the mixture of glycerin monostearate, peregal O-20 and PEG-100 stearate was used as the main emulsifier. The results showed that the optimized conditions for preparing the paraffin emulsion were as follows: The HLB value of the composite emulsifier was 10.8; the amount of the emulsifier was 15% of paraffin wax; the emulsifying temperature was 80 ℃; the emulsifying time was 30 min. The viscosity of the emulsified wax thus obtained was 14.7 s （No.4 viscosity flow cup）; the particle size was less than 50 nm; Zeta potential was 180 mV; the solid content was 43.7%. Rheological properties showed that the emulsion was pseudoplastic fluid. When the emulsion was stirred at 1 500 r/min for 4 h, the emulsion exhibited a viscosity of 12.4 s （i.e., the viscosity was not increased）, a solid content of 41.2%, good static and centrifugal stabilities, no phase separation, and a dispersibility of grade one, and its good fluidity was maintained not less than 7 days. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Preparation of sunscreening composite microspheres by Pickering emulsion polymerization YU Ming-ying,WANG Jing,YANG Cheng,CAO Guang-qun 2021, 51 (1):  38-43.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.01.007 Abstract ( 596 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1555KB) ( 476 )   The microspheres loaded with TiO2 and embedding avobenzone （AVB） were prepared in one step. First, amphiphilic TiO2 nanoparticles were prepared and then an O/W Pickering emulsion stabilized by these nanoparticles was successfully used to prepare the microspheres. The results of UV transmittance, light stability, in vitro transdermal and sensory tests showed that, the microspheres could improve the ability of UV protection and the light stability of avobenzone, and reduce the transdermal absorption of AVB. Moreover, the microsphere powder was delicate and easy to be washed away, and it could improve the whitening effect of TiO2. This structure made TiO2 nanoparticles evenly distributed and avoided direct contact between TiO2 and AVB; the nano-TiO2 on the surface of microspheres could filter a part of UV, so the service life of AVB in the microsphere could be prolonged. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research on the synthesis and performance of ZSM-5 zeolite withdifferent SiO2/Al2O3 ratios SONG Kai-yun,LI Guo-dong,LI Ning,LIANG Ya-ning,LI Xiao-feng,DOU Tao 2021, 51 (1):  44-49.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.01.008 Abstract ( 1345 )   HTML ( 48 )   PDF (1384KB) ( 963 )   Five kinds of ZSM-5 with SiO2/Al2O3 ratios of 100, 110, 120, 160 and 200 were synthesized using the low-cost tetraethlammonium bromide （TEABr） as surfactant, sodium silicate and aluminium sulfateunder as raw materials under hydrothermal condition in a 2 L high pressure magnetic stirred reactor, and were prepared as catalysts. The samples were characterized by XRD, SEM and NH3-TPD. The results showed that with the increase of SiO2/Al2O3 ratio, the SiO2/Al2O3 ratio and the average particle size of the product increase, the number of the total pores and micropores decreases, the number of mesoporous increases at first then decreases, and the strong and weak acidity decrease gradually. The ethylbenzene dealkylation/xylene isomerization reaction was carried out over these samples to evaluate the catalytic performance under the following conditions: temperature of 370 ℃, hydrogen pressure of 0.8 MPa, mass space velocity of 8 h-1 and hydrogen-hydrocarbon molar ratio of 2.0. It was found that with the increase of SiO2/Al2O3 ratio, the conversion of ethylbenzene decreases, and the isomerization activity of xylene increases at first then decreases. The corresponding sample with SiO2/Al2O3 ratio of 120 has the optimum comprehensive performance, the conversion of ethylbenzene is 57.60%, and the isomerization activity of xylene reaches the thermodynamic equilibrium value of 24.04%. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Reviews

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Types, characteristics and application of the skin cells used in cosmetic efficacy evaluation MA Yu-chen,LIU Lei,HE Cong-fen 2021, 51 (1):  50-55.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.01.009 Abstract ( 862 )   HTML ( 29 )   PDF (937KB) ( 867 )   The characteristics of keratinocytes （KC and HaCaT）, melanocytes （MC）, mouse melanoma cells （B-16） , mononuclear macrophages （THP-1） and human skin fibroblasts （HSF） were reviewed, as well as their applications in cosmetic efficacy evaluation. The commonly used detection indexes for evaluating the efficacy of different types of cosmetics by use of these cells were summarized. The characteristics of these skin cells and their advantages and disadvantages in vitro culture were analyzed, which might provide a theoretical basis for evaluating the efficacy of cosmetic raw materials. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research progress of chitosan-modified polymeric surfactants DU Jing-jing,HAN Xiao-hui,WANG Bo,XU Jing,ZHANG Zhang 2021, 51 (1):  56-62.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.01.010 Abstract ( 573 )   HTML ( 24 )   PDF (1261KB) ( 1112 )   As a green natural biopolymer, chitosan-based polymeric surfactants have attracted more and more attention because of their excellent properties. The common methods for preparation of macromolecular surfactants modified by chitosan were summarized, including alkylation, quaternization, carboxymethylation and acylation. The modification conditions and the properties of products were summarized. The applications and potential applications of chitosan-modified polymeric surfactants in the fields of food, medicine and cosmetics were introduced. The rules in the preparation of chitosan-modified polymeric surfactants were summarized and the development direction was prospected. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Research on emotional design of perfume bottle ZHAO Yan-ping,ZHENG Feng 2021, 51 (1):  63-67.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.01.011 Abstract ( 418 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (1040KB) ( 592 )   Based on consumer psychology, the article proposed a research method for perfume bottle design, which used emotional design concept and artistic synaesthesia as a guide. In order to match perfume and container properly, this method analyzed the design factors of perfume bottles through the three levels （VISCERAL, BEHAVIOR, and REFLECTIVE） of emotional design, and then used art synaesthesia to combine, transform, and deepen the emotional responses contained in the design. According to the above steps, the designer finally worked out the perfume bottle designs. The results show that this method can complete the emotional design of perfume bottles and enable the design to deepen the consumers’ emotional experience. In addition, this research method process has certain novelty and reference value. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Analytical methods and testing

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Rapid detection of mercury in cosmetics by portable X-rayfluorescence spectrometer LIANG Jian-feng,LI Ya,LIANG Yan-ni,ZHUO Mei-fang,YANG Shao-ping 2021, 51 (1):  68-72.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.01.012 Abstract ( 326 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (890KB) ( 284 )   This paper established a method using portable X-ray fluorescence spectrometer to rapidly detect of mercury content in cosmetics. The instrument parameters of portable X-ray fluorescence spectrometer were optimized by preparing cosmetics reference materials with different contents of mercury: soil analysis mode, main range time 150 s, low range time 5 s, light range time 5 s, standard deviation 1 σ, thickness was not corrected. After verification of the method, three kinds of blank cosmetics, solid matrix, paste and emulsion were used to examine the matrix. The results show that the detection limit is 1.0 mg/kg, sensitivity is more than 95%, specificity is more than 85%, false negative is less than 5%, and false positive is less than 15%. In the detection process of 104 batches of actual samples, the relative error is 5.93%-14.58% compared with the results of national standard method. The method is fast and simple, and can be used for quick detection of mercury content in cosmetics in the emergency incident of cosmetic mercury exceeding the standard and in the daily supervision and sampling of cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Analysis on the testing results of 518 cases of perm cosmetics YI Lu-yao,LI Jie,YU Xue-jun,XIONG Wen,YANG Ting-ting,WANG Hui 2021, 51 (1):  73-77.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.01.013 Abstract ( 367 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (992KB) ( 283 )   518 batches of commercially available perm cosmetics were collected. The content of mercaptoacetic acid in these products and the pH values thereof were determined according to “Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics” （2015 edition）. The testing results of content of mercaptoacetic acid were compared with the claims on the approved formulas and labels of products. The purpose of the survey was to gather information about the production and quality of the perm cosmetics on domestic market, and to uncover the safety risk and provide supervision suggestions. The results showed that 97 batches of unqualified samples were found, indicative of a disqualification rate of 18.73%. The measured values of mercaptoacetic acid were all within the limits. However, 66 batches of unqualified samples were ascribed to the inconsistency between the testing results and those claimed on the approved formulas and labels. The pH value of 1 batch failed to meet the standard, and 31 batches of unqualified samples were simply ascribed to problematic labeling or approved formulas. According to the results, a multi-dimensional comparison and in-depth analysis of the measured values of key indicators were carried out. In view of so many problems existing in the market of perm cosmetics, special sampling inspections should be strengthened in such cosmetic concentrated field, in which checking of non-standard labeling or approval documents should be strengthened, so as to achieve market standardization as soon as possible. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Determination of eight heavy metal elements in shampoo andhair care products ZHAO Xuan,GAO Qing-rui,QIN Shi-li,GAO Li-di 2021, 51 (1):  78-82.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.01.014 Abstract ( 581 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (1133KB) ( 351 )   The contents of heavy metal elements Pb, Cr, Cd, Ni, Cu, Zn, Co and Fe in shampoo, conditioner and hair dye were determined by atomic absorption spectrophotometry （AAS）. The results showed that the detection limits of eight heavy metal elements are all lower than 1.00 mg/kg, which meets the requirements of the limit of heavy metal content in the hygienic standard of cosmetics in China. The recoveries of eight heavy metal elements are all between 96.30% and 108.30%, the relative standard deviation is less than 1.00% （n=6）, and the correlation coefficient is greater than 0.999 0. The linear correlation of the method is good, and the accuracy of the measured results can meet the analysis requirements. Additionally, the study conducted a comparative analysis based on the types and functions of the products. It could be seen that in order to meet the demand of product, Zn, Fe, Pb and other heavy metal elements were detected in hair care products and the contents are high. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics