Table of Content

22 February 2021, Volume 51 Issue 2 Previous Issue    Next Issue

Basic research

Select

Study of the foaming mechanism of a silicone surfactant in ethanol-aqueous system NIU Qi-qi,BAI Yan-yun,TAI Xiu-mei,WANG Wan-xu,WANG Guo-yong 2021, 51 (2):  83-88.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.02.001 Abstract ( 499 )   HTML ( 119 )   PDF (1779KB) ( 427 )   The structure and liquid content of the foams, and the surface elasticity of films of a silicone surfactant FC-7160 and several hydrocarbon surfactants in 50% ethanol-aqueous media were studied. The results showed that, compared with the situation in water, the bubbles of FC-7160 in mixed solvent of 50% ethanol-water were smaller and nearly spherical, and the liquid content was higher; the dilatational modulus of hydrocarbon surfactants in aqueous ethanol solution were 0 mN/m, indicating that the foam films had no surface elasticity in 50% ethanol-aqueous media. However, the surface elasticity of FC-7160 in 50% ethanol-aqueous media was high, indicative of a more compact molecular arrangement which not only increased the surface viscosity but also enhanced the liquid film strength, so FC-7160 could form stable foam in the 50% ethanol-aqueous media. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Lecture of science and technology

Select

Cosmetic emulsions and new technologies of emulsification （I） Fundamental principles of Pickering emulsions and their applications in cosmetics CHEN Feng-feng,TAO Sheng-nan,GONG Sui-jing,ZHANG Sheng-wei,SUN Ya-juan,YANG Cheng,LI Yun-xing 2021, 51 (2):  89-97.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.02.002 Abstract ( 2100 )   HTML ( 146 )   PDF (1608KB) ( 1328 )   With the increasing demands for safety and sustainable development, the development of surfactant-free emulsion cosmetics has attracted more and more attention from consumers. Colloidal-particle-stabilized emulsions are known as Pickering emulsions, which have many advantages, such as high stability, good biocompatibility, less foaming during emulsification and environmental friendliness. The Pickering emulsions stabilized by colloidal particles derived from natural plants especially show great commercial potential in cosmetics. In the paper, stabilization mechanism of Pickering emulsions and the influencing factors thereof have been summarized. Then, the advantages to apply Pickering emulsions in cosmetics have been discussed, which will provide a reference for further broadening the practical application of Pickering emulsions in cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Development and application

Select

Preparation and performance evaluation of EGCG loaded cationic ethosomes XU Pu,ZHANG Lei,SHANG Ya-zhuo,LIU Hong-lai 2021, 51 (2):  98-103.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.02.003 Abstract ( 270 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (1328KB) ( 337 )   The cationic ethosomes were prepared by ethanol injection method which were added with the cationic surfactant dioctadecyl dimethyl ammonium chloride （TA-100）. The preparation conditions were optimized. The morphology, size distribution and Zeta potential of cationic ethosomes were determined by transmission electron microscopy and dynamic light scattering. Using epigallocatechin gallate （EGCG） as the hydrophilic model active substance, the encapsulation efficiency and in vitro release of EGCG loaded cationic ethosomes prepared with TA-100 were investigated, and their storage stability was also characterized. The results showed that the introduction of the cationic surfactant in ethosomes could not only effectively improve the stability of the ethosomes, but also significantly enhance the ability to encapsulate EGCG. The cationic ethosomes had good stability, high encapsulation capacity for active substances, and excellent slow release property, which showed good prospect for application in medicine, cosmetics and other fields. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Penetration research of niacinamide in stratum corneum of human skin by confocal Raman spectroscopy LIU Juan,JIA Xue-ting,YANG Li,SU Ning,ZHANG Si-hua,ZHU Jian-yu,ZHENG Hong-yan 2021, 51 (2):  104-108.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.02.004 Abstract ( 844 )   HTML ( 25 )   PDF (1434KB) ( 693 )   Analyzing and detecting the penetration depth and content of niacinamide in SC （stratum corneum） by skin Raman spectroscopy before and after using products which contained niacinamide was performed to evaluate the penetration ability of niacinamide and validation the feasibility of confocal Raman spectroscopy in transdermal absorption research. The results show that the characteristic peaks in Raman spectrum of niacinamide are stable in different substrates. After the cream containing 3% niacinamide is applied to the skin, the penetration content of niacinamide in SC increases with time and the content （AUC） of niacinamide in SC after 2 h is about 55 520.06. From the qualitative and quantitative perspectives of changes in Raman spectrum and penetration content, it shows that after applying cream with 3% nicotinamide to the skin for 2 h, the penetration depth of nicotinamide is about 16 μm. Confocal Raman spectroscopy is effectively applied in the penetration ability study of niacinamide in SC, and the research method can be a reference for the penetration of cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and other ingredients. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Prediction of eye irritation of shampoos, shower gel and facial cleansers using Bovine Corneal Opacity and Permeability assay based on biomarkers of cell viability XIE Zhen,CHEN Shu-huai,LIU Lu,HE Li-cheng,SANG Jing,ZHU Yan-qin,KUANG Rong 2021, 51 (2):  109-114.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.02.005 Abstract ( 311 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (1084KB) ( 484 )   Methods for evaluating eye irritation potential of cosmetic products using Bovine Corneal Opacity and Permeability assay with the fluorescence staining based on biomarkers of cell viability were established. Ocular irritation were predicted on commercially available shampoos, shower gel and facial cleansers by BCOP assay, then processed for freezing section and staining using phalloidin to detect intracellular f-actin and DAPI staining to detect nuclei, depth of injury （DOI） could be measured. Finally, the predictive models were establish based on BCOP assay, Draize test and DOI. These results suggested that the classification of eye irritation of cosmetic products from mild to moderate level can be distinguished by DOI measuring. Obviously, DOI testing provides a more reliable basis for eye irritation classification, and it is suitable for evaluation eye irritation potential for cosmetic products. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Application of a modified photo hen’s egg test to assess the phototoxicity of ultrafine titanium dioxide particles used in cosmetics LIU Lei,KONG Xue,TANG Ying 2021, 51 (2):  115-120.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.02.006 Abstract ( 319 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (1186KB) ( 340 )   A modified Neumann’s photo hen’s egg test was developed and applied in the phototoxicity assessment of ultrafine titanium dioxide ingredients used in cosmetics. The test substance was directly applied onto 9-day chicken embryo chorioallantoic membrane （CAM） at non-toxic dosage. After exposure to 5 J/cm 2 UVA, the test substance was removed from CAM and eggs were incubated for 24 hours. The vascular responses of CAM and the embryo lethality were observed and a phototoxic index was calculated to quantify the phototoxic potential. Ten ultrafine titanium dioxide samples differing in particle size, crystal form and surface coating were investigated, suggesting that this improved photo-CAM assay could be used as a simple, rapid and sensitive in vitro method in the photosafety screening of ultrafine inorganic sunscreen materials. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Study on the physical and chemical properties and skin care effects of three seaweeds polysaccharides JING Yong-shuai,JIN Shan,ZHANG Dan-shen,ZHANG Rui-juan,CHEN Xi,WU Lan-fang 2021, 51 (2):  121-126.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.02.007 Abstract ( 580 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF (1339KB) ( 528 )   Three kinds of seaweeds, Ecklonia kurome Okam, Spirulina platensis, and Gelidium amansii Lamouroux were used to prepare crude polysaccharides, and to explored their skin care effects such as anti-oxidation, moisture absorption and anti-ultraviolet radiation. The results show that the mass fractions of total soluble sugars in the crude polysaccharides are: Ecklonia kurome Okam （37.90%）, Gelidium amansii Lamouroux （39.87%）, Spirulina platensis （24.53%）. The protein mass fractions are: Ecklonia kurome Okam （3.65%）, Gelidium amansii Lamouroux （2.95%）, and Spirulina platensis （26.78%）. All three seaweeds polysaccharides can penetrate the skin. The capacity of antioxidant is: Spirulina platensis>Ecklonia kurome Okam>Gelidium amansii Lamouroux; the capacity of hygroscopicity is: Ecklonia kurome Okam>Spirulina platensis>Gelidium amansii Lamouroux; the capacity of moisture retention is: Spirulina platensis>Ecklonia kurome Okam>Gelidium amansii Lamouroux; the capacity of anti-ultraviolet is: Spirulina platensis>Ecklonia kurome Okam>Gelidium amansii Lamouroux. Skin irritation experiments show that all three kinds of seaweeds crude polysaccharides are non-irritating to the skin. Three kinds of seaweeds polysaccharides have certain skin care effects. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Study of antifungal effect in vivo and in vitro and antipruritic effects of water extract of Terminalia chebula Retz. WU Xiao-shi,PAN Jing-ling,DENG Rong-rong,MO Zi-tong,TANG Chun-ping,SHEN Zhi-bing 2021, 51 (2):  127-131.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.02.008 Abstract ( 346 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1300KB) ( 386 )   Investigated the effects of Terminalia chebula Retz. （TRW） with water extraction on Malassezia restricta （M. restricta） in vivo and in vitro as well as its antipruritic effects on guinea pig skin pruritus model. The minimal inhibitory concentration （MIC） in vitro of TRW against M. restricta was detected by the test tube dilution method. The results show that the MIC values against M. restricta is 7.20 mg/mL. Experimental cutaneous M. restricta infection was achieved in guinea pigs by daily inoculum for 7 consecutive days, which exproled the antifungal activity of TRW in vivo. The results show that compared with the model group, the high and medium dose of TRW display a reduction of skin lesions score in the guinea pig models （P<0.05） after 7 days of administration, the negative conversion rates of low, middle and high doses of TRW are 37.5%, 50% and 62.5%, respectively, which reduce the damage of pathological tissues in guinea pigs. Histamine phosphate inducing skin pruritus in guinea pigs was adopted to observe the effect on pruritus in experimental animals. The results show that TRW obviously inhibites skin pruritus induced by histamine in guinea pigs （P<0.05）. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Development and research of a low-viscosity suspension LI Jin-feng,GAO Ying,NING Ke-gong,ZHANG Qiu-xia,LIU Ping,WU Peng,LI Li-xian 2021, 51 (2):  132-138.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.02.009 Abstract ( 360 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (918KB) ( 346 )   In order to develop a low-viscosity suspension, gellan gum and solution stabilizers such as K-type carrageenan, xanthan gum, hyaluronic acid and poloxamer were applied in the suspension liquid of lactobacillus paracasei, and the effects of these materials on the appearance, taste, stability and rheological properties of the system were evaluated. The results showed that the presence of more than 0.03% of gellan gum could make lactobacillus paracasei well suspended, and the viscosity was very low, which would not induce the taste of thick, but had no flowability. However, the combination of gellan gum with hyaluronic acid could form a suspension of lactobacillus paracasei with good flowability, low viscosity （η<100 mPa·s） and crisp mouthfeel. The results showed that the low-viscosity suspension could be formed by the combination of gellan gum and hyaluronic acid to satisfy the development of various products. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Reviews

Select

Research progress on cardanol-based surfactants and other derivatives ZHANG Yao,DAI Zhi-cheng,CHEN Hong-ling 2021, 51 (2):  139-147.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.02.010 Abstract ( 498 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF (1629KB) ( 500 )   The research progress on cardanol-based surfactants and other derivatives of cardanol was reviewed. The structure and basic properties of cardanol were introduced. The research situation of nonionic cardanol ethers, anionic cardanol carboxylates and cardanol sulfonates, and amphoteric cardanol-based surfactants, was emphatically introduced. The status of industrialization of cardanol-based surfactants was summarized. The research and development of cardanol-related fine chemicals in phenolic resin, furan resin, epoxy resin and other fields were also briefly introduced. References | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Research progress of unsaturated alcohol/ether sulfates BI Yu-ting,LI Ping,YANG Xiao-yi,GUO Chao-hua,LI Jian-bo,REN Xiao-dan 2021, 51 (2):  148-152.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.02.011 Abstract ( 274 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (912KB) ( 350 )   The research progress of unsaturated alcohol/ether sulfates at home and abroad was introduced, including the preparation, properties and related applications of unsaturated alcohol/ether sulfates. Finally, the development trend of unsaturated alcohol/ether sulfates was prospected. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

The mechanism of skin glycation reaction, influencing factors and the development status of anti-glycation in the cosmetics industry LI Hui-ke,FENG Nan,WANG Wen-bo,LI Jun-xiang,HE Cong-fen 2021, 51 (2):  153-160.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.02.012 Abstract ( 1537 )   HTML ( 95 )   PDF (1200KB) ( 1186 )   The formation process of the advanced glycation end product （AGEs） and its effect on the skin were clarified in the paper through the introduction of the mechanism of skin glycation in details and the measures against the skin glycation and the mechanism of action were introduced too. The cosmetic brands and ingredients that claim anti-glycation effects at present were summarized, and the deficiencies in the development of anti-glycation cosmetics in the market were analyzed in personal opinion. It aims to provide solid and scientific theoretical basis for the development of anti-glycation cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Analytical methods and testing

Select

Determination of glabridin in cosmetic by UHPLC-MS/MS method DONG Ya-lei,QIAO Ya-sen,WANG Qi-lin,LI Li,HUANG Chuan-feng,WANG Hai-yan,SUN Lei 2021, 51 (2):  161-165.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.02.013 Abstract ( 422 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (1116KB) ( 422 )   An UHPLC-MS/MS method was developed for the determination of glabridin in cosmetic containing licorice. The glabridin in facial cream and toner samples was extracted with ethyl acetate and methanol, respectively. After optimizing the sample pretreatment and chromatography conditions, as well as mass spectrometry parameters, UHPLC-MS/MS analysis method was performed with MRM mode. The methodological parameters were investigated in detail. The results showed that the linear relationship is good and the detection limit is 0.006 mg/kg. The average recoveries of the two substrates ranged from 83.1% to 113% at low, medium and high mass concentrations. 31 Batches of samples labeled with licorice extracts were tested. Glabridin was detected in 13 batches with the content ranging from lower than LOQ to 944 mg/kg. The study can be used to evaluate the content of the active components of glycyrrhiza extract in cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Select

Determination of cannabidiol in cosmetics by ultra-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry LI Shuo,LI Li,WANG Hai-yan,SUN Lei 2021, 51 (2):  166-170.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.02.014 Abstract ( 509 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (1023KB) ( 459 )   An analytical method of ultra-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry （UPLC-MS/MS） was established for determination of cannabidiol （CBD） in cosmetics. The samples were extracted with methanol under ultrasonic condition and then purified with an ultrafiltration type purification column before quantitative analysis by external standard method. The UPLC separation was carried out on a CACELL CORE ADME column （2.1 mm×100 mm, 2.7 μm） by gradient elution using aqueous solution containing 0.1% formic acid （A）- acetonitrile solution containing 0.1% formic acid （B）. The electrospray ionization source in positive ion mode （ESI） was used for both qualitative and quantitative analysis of CBD in the multiple reaction monitoring （MRM） mode. The results show that the established method exhibits a good linear relationship in the corresponding concentration range of 0.5-100 μg/L with a correlation coefficient r=0.999 9. The limit of detection （LOD） is 1 μg/kg and the limit of quantification （LOQ） is 3 μg/kg. The recoveries of standard addition at two different levels are 76.6%-110.2% while the relative standard deviation （n=6） are 1.4%-7.7%. Accurate and sensitive UPLC-MS/MS method was developed and validated. This method is suitable for qualitative and quantitative analysis of cannabidiol in cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics