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Table of Content

    22 March 2021, Volume 51 Issue 3 Previous Issue    Next Issue
    Basic research
    Research on surface and interface performance of hydrosilicone oil modified polyether demulsifiers
    YANG Di,MEI Qi-xiang,WU Juan,LAI Lu,MEI Ping
    2021, 51 (3):  171-177.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.001
    Abstract ( 312 )   HTML ( 87 )   PDF (1503KB) ( 287 )  

    The polyether demulsifiers SP169, AP201 and AE1910, were modified with hydrosilicone oil to obtain modified demulsifiers SISP, SIAP and SIAE, which were characterized by FT-IR spectroscopy. The surface parameters such as cmc, γcmc, Γmax, Amin of the demulsifiers were measured. The results showed that the modification improved the ability of the demulsifiers to reduce the surface tension of the solvent. However, the results of dynamic oil-water interfacial tension showed that the multi-branched SIAP and SIAE had higher ability to reduce the oil-water interfacial tension. Meanwhile, the curves of dilatational elasticity (εd) and dilatational viscosity (ωηd) of demulsifiers at oil-water interface with the variation of dilatational frequency (ω) were obtained by studying the viscoelasticity of the oil-water interface for different demulsifiers. It showed that the modification of polyethers mainly caused the change of the viscous modulus at oil-water interface for the demulsifiers. The demulsification performance of demulsifiers for crude oil emulsions was studied, and the performance of SISP and SIAP which were demulsifiers modified from SP169 and AP201 had been improved maximally.

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    Lecture of science and technology
    Botanical cosmetic ingredient (Ⅱ)Research and development of tyrosinase inhibitors from plant extracts in skin whitening
    REN Qian-qian,WU Hua,JIN Jian-ming
    2021, 51 (3):  178-185.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.002
    Abstract ( 615 )   HTML ( 31 )   PDF (1165KB) ( 876 )  

    Melanogenesis is a primary cause responsible for the pigmentation of human skin and hair. Tyrosinase is a key enzyme in melanin biosynthetic pathway. Inhibition of tyrosinase activity is one of the main strategies to reduce the formation of melanin in the skin. Here we reviewed the melanin biosynthetic pathway, the differences between mushroom tyrosinase (mTYR) and human tyrosinase (hTYR), mechamisms of tyrosinase inhibition, and the plant extracts and monomer components that inhibit tyrosinase activity. The active plant components that inhibit tyrosinases include hydroquinone and its derivatives, benzaldehyde and benzoate derivatives, phenethyls, phenylpropanoids, stilbenes and their derivatives, flavonoids, polyphenols and quinones, which contain the benzene ring or phenolic hydroxy group in their structures. The correlation between the structure of tyrosinase inhibitors from plant extracts and tyrosinase inhibitory activity was discussed, hoping to provide help for relevant researches.

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    Development and application
    Research on the catalytic performance of HZSM-5 in the synthesis of tetrabutyl pyromellitate
    QIN Na-di,DING Jian-fei,ZHANG Yi-dong,XU Fei,LI Mo,XU Wei,SHAO Rong
    2021, 51 (3):  186-189.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.003
    Abstract ( 243 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (1263KB) ( 580 )  

    Pyromellitic dianhydride reacted with n-butanol to produce a green surfactant of tetrabutyl pyromellitate using a HZSM-5 molecular sieve catalyst. The effects of the one-step crystallization and two-step crystallization on the structure and performance of the molecular sieve were investigated. The reaction temperature, reaction time, catalyst dosage, alcohol-anhydride ratio and other process conditions were optimized. The results show that the HZSM-5 prepared by two-step crystallization has high crystallinity, small grain size and regular grain size. Under the better conditions: 220 oC reaction temperature, 6 h reaction time, 5% of the catalyst, 7∶1 of the ratio of alcohol to anhydride, the conversion of pyromellitic dianhydride was 93%.

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    Research on the testing methods of softness for fabric detergents
    WANG Jie,YAO Chen-zhi
    2021, 51 (3):  190-194.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.004
    Abstract ( 309 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (1214KB) ( 444 )  

    The influences of washing conditions such as cloth base, washing concentration, bath ratio, water quality and water temperature on the softness by the use of fabric detergents were studied, and the grading of products under the condition of the testing method was studied. The results showed that white knitted cotton cloth should be selected as the test base. The testing mass concentration of softener was 1 g/L. Under this condition, different products could be graded. The test conditions to evaluate the softness for the washing liquids were as follows: at (30±1) ℃, 5 pieces of cloth were put into the washing solution with the mass concentration of 2 g/Lprepared by hard water and washed for 4 cycles. The results under the test conditions were stable and reliable. Different products could be well distinguished within a certain range. When the performance of some products was close to each other and it was impossible to distinguish them by four washing cycles, the washing cycles could be appropriately increased to distinguish them.

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    Application of ethylcellulose in innovative oil-in-water lip gloss
    LI Ya-nan,ZHAO Xiao-min,QU Xin
    2021, 51 (3):  195-199.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.005
    Abstract ( 436 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (1755KB) ( 512 )  

    Via formulation stability analysis, film formation and water resistance tests, together with Visia CR image analysis, the application characteristics of ethylcellulose in innovative oil-in-water lip gloss was studied. With the accelerated centrifugation experiment of Lum dispersion analyzer, it was verified that the liquid lipstick containing ethylcellulose was more stable than the placebo without ethylcellulose. Film-forming & water resistance tests and the results of contact angle meter show that the lip gloss containing 2.5% ethylcellulose has better and more uniform film than the placebo, and its contact angle is higher. Images were captured by Visia CR. The results show that the lip gloss containing 2.5% ethylcellulose has a higher brightness (p<0.05), providing mirror-like luster and higher color saturation. The hiding power of the formula has significantly increased (p<0.05).

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    Study on the skin care efficacy and safety of the grape-seed fermentation liquid
    LIU Ping-ping,XU Dan-ni,ZHAO Dan,AN Quan,WANG Chang-tao,LI Meng
    2021, 51 (3):  200-207.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.006
    Abstract ( 598 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF (1332KB) ( 402 )  

    Grape-seed fermentation broth was obtained by fermenting grape seeds with red wine yeast. The active ingredients in grape-seed fermentation broth and water extract were analyzed by experiment testing. The results showed that the protein (3.13±0.036) g/L and polysaccharides (0.36±0.015) g/L in grape-seed fermentation broth were significantly more than in the water extract (P<0.05). It indicated that yeast fermentation could significantly increase the content of active ingredients in the extraction liquid. The effects of grape-seed fermentation liquid and water extract on the scavenging ability of ABTS +·and DPPH were studied to evaluate their antioxidant capacities. It was found that the IC50 of grape-seed fermentation broth to ABTS +· and DPPH free radicals were 0.322% and 1.448%, respectively, and the IC50 of grape-seed water extract to ABTS +·and DPPH free radicals were 0.358% and 1.707%, respectively. Meanwhile, there was significant difference between the abilities of fermentation broth and water extract to scavenge free radicals (P<0.05). The potential skin care efficacy of grape-seed fermentation liquid was evaluated by investigating the effects on fibroblasts and human immortalized keratinocytes (Hacat). Chorioallantoic membrane-trypan blue staining and human skin patch test were used to evaluate the irritation of grape-seed fermentation liquid to eyes and skin. It showed that grape-seed fermentation liquid had potential anti-aging and anti-inflammatory effects, and it was basically non-irritating to eyes or skin.

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    Study of the correlations between the sensory characteristics of elastic foundation creams and their textural parameters
    LIN Meng-ya,YU Wei-hong
    2021, 51 (3):  208-213.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.007
    Abstract ( 327 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF (1513KB) ( 607 )  

    The textural and sensory analyses of five products of elastic foundation creams with different thickener content were carried out. The results obtained by a texture analyzer showed that, with the increase of thickener content, the hardness of the product increased gradually, while the springiness, adhesiveness, cohesiveness and other parameters were first increased and then decreased. The sensory results showed that the skin softness during the application of the product had a strong correlation with hardness and cohesiveness, and the correlation coefficients were 0.909 and 0.745, respectively. The spreadability of the foundation cream had significantly negative correlation with the textural hardness, with a correlation coefficient of -0.512. The elasticity (a sensory parameter) had a strong correlation with the springiness (a textural parameter), and the correlation coefficient was 0.774. The results showed that the parameters obtained by the texture analyzer had good correlation with the sensory tests. The study proved that it had potential to use instruments to predict sensory test results for cosmetic products.

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    Effects of blend essential oil on melanogenesis in B16 cells of mice
    WANG Ying,TANG Yin,WU Ya-ni
    2021, 51 (3):  214-219.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.008
    Abstract ( 431 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (1504KB) ( 1066 )  

    In order to investigate the inhibitory effect of a blend essential oil on tyrosinase activity and melanin content, the composition of this blend essential oil was analyzed by GC-MS. Taking mouse melanoma cells (B16) with high melanin expression induced by melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) as the model, the effects of the blend essential oil on melanocyte vitality were determined by trypan blue staining and CKK8 method. Enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) and dopa oxidation method were used to measure melanin content and tyrosinase activity in cells. The results showed that the blend essential oil contained a large number of compounds such as pinene (26.19%) , linalool (12.98%) , santalol (9.39%) , linalyl acetate (9.16%) , etc.; the blend essential oil had no toxicity to B16 cells when the mass concentration was less than 0.1 g/L, and the cell proliferation rate was higher than 90%; the blend essential oil at different mass concentrations could significantly inhibit the tyrosinase activity and melanin content in B16 cells induced by α-MSH. When the mass concentration of blend essential oil was 0.1 g/L,it had the best inhibitory effect on melanin production, and the inhibitory rates on tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis were 51.27% and 36.03%, respectively. In conclusion, the blend plant essential oil could significantly inhibit melanin synthesis and inhibit the tyrosinase activity in B16 cells.

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    UPLC-Q-TOF/MS qualitative analysis method and stability study of 8 ultraviolet absorbers in sunscreen cosmetic emulsions
    HE Xin-xin,WANG Xue-mei,WANG Gang-li,CAO Jin
    2021, 51 (3):  220-226.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.009
    Abstract ( 315 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1089KB) ( 776 )  

    Based on the constant temperature and humidity acceleration test at 45 ℃ and 75% RH, UPLC-Q-TOF/MS was adopted to qualitatively study the stability conditions of 8 ultraviolet absorbers in different sunscreen cosmetic emulsions. The results show that the 8 ultraviolet absorbers are in poor chemical stability with a certain degree of degradation when they are added in the cosmetic emulsions, and the degradation rate under UPLC-Q-TOF/MS is significantly higher than that of HPLC. Analysis of possible degradation products revealed that some degradation products of UV absorbers may have the same nucleus structure as the prototype, which directly lead to the similar UV absorption characteristics and chromatographic retention behaviors. So, compared with HPLC, the UPLC-Q-TOF/MS has higher sensitivity and stronger specificity, and is able to achieve better differentiation of similar compounds by the unique precise molecular weight. Therefore, it is more suitable for the stability research of ultraviolet absorbers.

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    Reviews
    Research progress in the application of traditional tea and Non-Camellia Tea in toothpaste
    LIU Jing-xi,HAO Er-wei,DU Zheng-cai,QIN Jian-feng,HOU Xiao-tao,DENG Jia-gang
    2021, 51 (3):  227-234.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.010
    Abstract ( 332 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (922KB) ( 788 )  

    The application of traditional tea and Non-Camellia Tea in toothpaste in recent years was reviewed. The article introduced the efficacy and functional ingredients of traditional tea and Non-Camellia Tea in oral care, as well as the toothpaste products and intellectual property rights of toothpaste products based on them. The article summarized and prospected the application status of traditional tea and Non-Camellia Tea in toothpaste, and provided a reference for the further development of traditional tea and Non-Camellia Tea toothpaste products.

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    Mechanism, evaluation system and protection of surfactant on skin
    WU Wen-hai,HE Yi-fan,LIU Yu-hong
    2021, 51 (3):  235-242.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.011
    Abstract ( 1247 )   HTML ( 34 )   PDF (1008KB) ( 1235 )  

    Surfactants are widely used in skin care products and cleansers, but frequent use or improper contact with surfactants can cause skin irritation, sensitivity or barrier function damage, causing skin discomfort. For the safety of skin, this article elucidated the mechanism of surfactants on skin from the structure and composition of the skin that surfactants act on. Furthermore, two evaluation systems for surfactant effect on skin were proposed based on mechanism aforementioned and skin symptoms respectively. Lastly, the active ingredients and their action mechanism to lessen surfactants were illustrated. It is hoped to provide references for the research and development of active ingredients and mild surfactant systems for skin protection.

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    Comparison and selection of effectiveness test methods of cosmetic antiseptic system
    LUO Jun,WANG Xiao-wei,LIU Yi,ZHOU Hai-mu,YING Guo-hong
    2021, 51 (3):  243-249.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.012
    Abstract ( 533 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF (978KB) ( 891 )  

    The research progress of effectiveness test methods of cosmetic antiseptic system were introduced, and the related standards of cosmetic were analyzed and compared, including Toiletry and Fragrance Association (CTFA) , American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM), International Organization for Standardization (ISO) , United States Pharmacopeia (USP), European Pharmacopeia (EP) and Pharmacopoeia of the People’s Republic of China (ChP), and it provided a reference for cosmetics enterprises to select the method of preservation test scientifically.

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    Analytical methods and testing
    Simultaneous determination of liquiritin and glycyrrhizic acid by high performance liquid chromatography in licorice extract in raw materials of cosmetics
    YANG Hong-mei,XU Jia-qi,GONG Sheng-zhao,YU Juan
    2021, 51 (3):  250-255.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.013
    Abstract ( 253 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1295KB) ( 419 )  

    A comprehensive analytical method based on high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) was developed for the determination of liquiritin and glycyrrhizic acid in licorice extract in cosmetics. The target compounds were extracted with 50% ethanol, separated on a Agilent ZORBAX SB-C18 column (4.6 mm×250 mm×5 μm) in gradient elution program using acetonitrile and 0.05% phosphoric acid as mobile phases, at flow rate of 1 mL/min, and detection wavelength of 237 nm. The method had a short test time and accurate test results, it showed good linear relationship between 0.5-100 μg/mL with correlation coefficients larger than 0.999 5. The spiked recoveries in the blank sample were in the range of 91.47%-114.57% with the relative standard deviations of 0.87%-3.32%. The results indicate that the developed method is rapid, accurate and reliable, which is suitable for the determination of liquiritin and glycyrrhizic acid in licorice extract in cosmetics.

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    Determination of 37 trace elements in lipsticks by microwave digestion and inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry
    XU Qin-ke,WEI Peng,GUO Zhao-hui,LIANG Chun-yu,SUN Ying
    2021, 51 (3):  256-264.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.014
    Abstract ( 268 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (976KB) ( 325 )  

    Thirty batches of lipsticks sampled from twenty-seven districts in Gansu province were tested by microwave digestion coupled with ICP-MS. The types and concentrations of metal elements in lipsticks were determined separately by online internal standard calibration and external standard method. The detection limit of the instruments was 0.000 11~1.6 μg/L in the range of 0~100 μg/L (Hg: 0~5 μg/L). When the constant volume was 25 mL and the theoretical quantity of the sample was 0.3 g, the detection limit of the method was 0.000 009 2~0.13 mg/kg; the linear correlation coefficients were all greater than 0.995 1; the recoveries of spiked samples were 81.8%~120.0%; the relative standard deviations (RSD) were less than 5%. The test results showed that this method was simple, rapid, time-saving, cost-saving and accurate and had good reproducibility in the simultaneous analysis of various elements in lipsticks.

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