Table of Content

22 January 2020, Volume 50 Issue 1 Previous Issue    Next Issue

Basic research

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Study on the anti-interference performance of β-cyclodextrin to the ultraviolet spectrum of Triton X-100 HUANG Hong-yi,YIN Xian-qing,JING Bo,WANG Xiu-jun,CHEN Wen-juan,LI Geng,SHI Dong-po 2020, 50 (1):  1-7.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.01.001 Abstract ( 371 )   HTML ( 52 )   PDF (1355KB) ( 453 )   The interactions between polyethylene glycol tert-octylphenyl ether （Triton X-100） and dodecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide （DTAB） has significant effects on the ultraviolet spectral signals of Triton X-100 in the aqueous mixture. The results show that DTAB can increase the absorbance of Triton X-100 in aqueous solution and also has a remarkable influence on the apparent critical micelle concentration （cmc） of Triton X-100, where the apparent cmc values of Triton X-100 are reduced from 0.187 g/L to 0.170 and 0.154 g/L when the concentration of DTAB increase from 0 to 0.100 and 0.200 mmol/L, respectively. Adding β-cyclodextrin （β-CD） by molar ratio of 1∶1 between Triton X-100 and β-CD in the aqueous mixture of Triton X-100 and DTAB can not only effectively reduce the interactions between Triton X-100 and DTAB, but also enhance the ultraviolet signal intensity of Triton X-100. Thus, the recovery rates of Triton X-100 change from 92.0%-97.3% to 98.8%-102.2%, which indicate that the measurement accuracy of Triton X-100 has been greatly improved. The results of Job’s experiment and infrared spectrum show that, β-CD can eliminate the interference （arising from other coexisting components） to the UV spectra of Triton X-100, which is primarily attributed to the formation of inclusion complexes with Triton X-100 molecules entering into the cavities of β-CD molecules. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Lecture of science and technology

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Study on the design and synthesis of amphiphilic polymers and their synergistic systems (Ⅰ) Molecular structure design of functional amphiphilic polymers KANG Wan-li,WANG Fang,YANG Hong-bin,ZHANG Xiang-feng,LI Meng-lan 2020, 50 (1):  8-13.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.01.002 Abstract ( 319 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (786KB) ( 315 )   The research progress on the functional amphiphilic polymers as oil-displacing agents in recent years is summarized, including the research results in molecular structure design of amphiphilic polymers. The research progress mainly involves the design of hydrophobic monomers and functional monomers. Design of hydrophobic monomers consists of double-tailed monomers, benzene ring monomers and double substitution monomers. Design of functional monomers consists of surface active monomers, betaine monomers and temperature- and salt-resistant monomers. References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Efficacy evaluation of cosmetics （Ⅻ）Application of cutaneous biological test in efficacy evaluation of cosmetics MA Xue,SONG Yan-qing,PAN Yao,ZHAO Hua,LU Yong-bo,FAN Zhan-hua 2020, 50 (1):  14-19.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.01.003 Abstract ( 812 )   HTML ( 39 )   PDF (864KB) ( 1868 )   The concept of cutaneous biological test was summarized, and the application of cutaneous biological test methods and indicators in the efficacy evaluation of cosmetics including morphology, lipidomics, microbiome, and physiological function were introduced. It provided a reference and guidance for the selection of appropriate cutaneous biological indicators in the evaluation of efficacy of various cosmetics. The current status and development trends of cutaneous biological test were summarized and prospected. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Development and application

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Performance and phase behavior of the mixture of alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinate and alkyl polyglycoside ZHOU Yuan,YANG Xiu-quan,ZHANG Jun 2020, 50 (1):  20-25.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.01.004 Abstract ( 398 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (1311KB) ( 359 )   The mixtures of alkyl polyglycoside （APG） and alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinate （APG-SS） with different mixing ratios were studied by measuring their surface activity and foaming properties. The phase behavior of the ternary system of APG/APG-SS/H2O was also studied. The results show that the best synergism is found in surface activity （γcmc=27.90 mN/m, cmc=0.044 mmol/L, Γmax=10.86 μmol/m 2, Amin=0.15 nm 2） when nAPG-SS∶nAPG=2∶8. The mixed system has higher foaming ability in distilled water and hard water than single surfactant when nAPG-SS∶nAPG=2∶8 and 4∶6, so it has synergism. At the same time, the foam stability of the mixed system is better than APG, which can improve the hard water resistance of APG. The phase diagrams of the APG-SS/APG/H2O ternary systems were characterized by micellar phase, a region where lamellar liquid crystal and micellar phases coexisted and a region of “aqueous two-phase”. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Effects of SiO2 nanoparticles on the stability of aqueous foams ZHANG Yang,YAN Yong-li,XI Qi,YU Chang-long,KOU Wei-wei 2020, 50 (1):  26-31.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.01.005 Abstract ( 431 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (1823KB) ( 460 )   SiO2 nanoparticles was mixed with anionic surfactant sodium dodecyl sulfate （SDS）, cationic surfactant cetyltrimethylammonium bromide （CTAB） and nonionic surfactant dodecyl alcohol polyoxyethylene （3） ether （AEO-3）, respectively, to prepare the aqueous foams thereof. The variations of foaming volume, half-life and microstructure were determined to reveal the influence of SiO2 nanoparticles on the stability of aqueous foams. The results showed that when the mass fraction of the surfactant is constant, the foam stability gradually increase with the increase of the mass fraction of nanoparticles. When the mass fractions of the nanoparticles are 0.3%, the foaming volumes reached maxima with gas contents of 78.9%, 78.4% and 78.8%, respectively. Compared with the single systems of SDS, CTAB and AEO-3 at surfactant concentrations of 0.3%, 0.3% and 15%, respectively, these experimentally prepared foams did not affect the foaming volumes but the foam stability had been variously improved （the half-lives are 9.0 min, 8.2 min and 360 min, which are increase by 20%, 28.1% and 71.4%, respectively）. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Studies on chemical constituents, antioxidant and irritancy of Opuntia ficus-indica L. seed oil ZOU Xiao-ling,LIU Huan-yu 2020, 50 (1):  32-37.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.01.006 Abstract ( 555 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (1083KB) ( 884 )   Taking Opuntia ficus-indica L . seed oil as the research object, its chemical constituents was analyzed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry （GC-MS）. The antioxidant activities in vitro of the Opuntia ficus-indica L. seed oil were evaluated by 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl （DPPH）, hydroxyl radical, superoxide radical, total reductive capacity and total antioxidant capacity as indicators. Its irritancy was evaluated by hen’s egg test on the chorioallantoic membrane and repeated open application test. The results show that 16 compounds with a mass fraction greater than 0.1% are identified from the Opuntia ficus-indica L. seed oil accounting for 94.02% of the total mass. Among them, the mass fraction more than 1%: linoleic acid （C18∶2） 60.42%, hexadecanoic acid （C16∶0） 15.20%, stearic acid （C18∶0） 5.57%, γ-sitosterol 4.34%, linolenic acid （C18∶2） 1.89%, oleic acid （C18∶1） 1.48%, and cis-7-hexadecenoic acid （C16∶1） 1.13%. The Opuntia ficus-indica L . seed oil has strong antioxidant activity capacity, the half clearance rate （IC50） of DPPH free radical, hydroxyl free radical, superoxide anion, total reducing power and total antioxidant capacity are 5.11, 0.79, 3.19, 1.12 and 1.49 g/L, respectively. The hen’s egg test on the chorioallantoic membrane and repeated open application test show that Opuntia ficus-indica L. seed oil is non-irritating. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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The active ingredients and safety analysis of colla corii asini as a cosmetic raw material TIE Hang,LIAO Feng,WANG Chao,YAN Yan,XIE Xiao,SU Ning 2020, 50 (1):  38-43.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.01.007 Abstract ( 484 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1121KB) ( 467 )   Ejiao （Dong’e Ejiao） was analyzed by high resolution mass spectrum （HRMS） to identify its components, and its safety as a cosmetic raw material was systematically evaluated. The results showed that Ejiao contained abundant functional and nutritive ingredients such as amino acids, vitamins, sugars and lipids, which had good development value. No obvious cytotoxic effect on epidermis and dermal cells was observed when the solid to liquid ratio of Ejiao solution was below 1∶100 （g∶mL）; there was no phototoxic effect, eye irritation/corrosive effect, or skin irritation/corrosive effect. The results showed that Ejiao had the efficacy value of being a cosmetic raw material with sufficient basic toxicological safety. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Feature extraction of cosmetic packaging symbol elements based on big data clustering WU Fang-fei 2020, 50 (1):  44-48.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.01.008 Abstract ( 340 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1133KB) ( 418 )   The feature extraction method of cosmetic packaging symbol elements based on big data clustering was proposed. The level set function was initialized to obtain the local standard deviation image of cosmetic packaging symbol element image. The evolution direction of local standard deviation image pixels on contour curve was determined according to the cosine similarity. The level set evolution improved the SPF function to complete the symbol element segmentation. The discrete sample spectrum characteristics of big data were calculated, and the vector matrix of the particle optimal solution of the data clustering center was obtained by the confidence degree to complete the data clustering. By combining convolution neural network and AutoEncoder, the maximum activation value was obtained in the nodes existing in the output layer through convolution, filtering and pooling operations, and the feature extraction of cosmetic packaging symbol elements was realized. The experimental results show that the proposed method has shorter feature extraction time, higher feature recognition ability and higher extraction accuracy. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Reviews

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Do we need to regard PFAS as evil? Our points of view XING Hang,DOU Zeng-pei,XIAO Zi-bing,XIAO Jin-xin 2020, 50 (1):  49-53.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.01.009 Abstract ( 4484 )   HTML ( 79 )   PDF (744KB) ( 1238 )   The ubiquitous distribution of PFOS and PFOA in the globe and biota has induced the criticism from environmental scientists and toxicologists. The international community has established laws and supervision measures to eliminate PFOS and PFOA. Now some scholars begin to fire at the whole class of PFAS （per-,polyfluoroalkyl substances） , and the public argues intensely （fear arise from being not understood）. Not all PFAS are verified with health risk, but they are surely blamed by being too stable and thus too difficult to degrade. Recently, a paper titled “How to say goodbye to PFAS” is published on the website of the world’s most influential news magazine in the field of chemical industry named Chemical & Engineering News （C&EN）. Many of the view points therein reflect the prevailing opinion, which is against “one-size-fits-all”, that specific substances should be treated differently according to their necessity and substitutability, and that the unchecked growth in production and application of PFAS should be turned around, and that substitutes should be actively pursued. We agree with the thought of this paper, but also have objections mainly addressed on the different view angle and the standard of classification. The author of that paper has focused on the views of environmentalists, while we are researchers and technology developers of PFAS, as well as a manufacturer of some narrow-category PFAS products; the author of that paper takes the perspective of developed countries, while we consider that developing countries should weigh well the way of categorization more carefully and deeply before action. China should positively participate in this historical argument of standard-setting, take into account our own actual conditions, and work out a suitable implementation plan, particularly, do not blindly follow or go ahead radically and rashly. References | Related Articles | Metrics

Analytical methods and testing

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Analysis on the determination results of 32 kinds of dyes used in oxidized blackening hair dyes LI Bin,ZHANG Wei-qing,LIU Hui-jin,HOU Li-nan,QIAO Ya-sen,WANG Hai-yan 2020, 50 (1):  54-58.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.01.010 Abstract ( 603 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (804KB) ( 495 )   The 25 batches of commercially available oxidized blackening hair dyes were collected, and the contents of 32 selected chemical substances including p-Phenylenediamine in these products were assessed according to Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics （2015 edition）. The content analysis results were compared with the approved formulas and labels of each product. The purpose of the survey was to gather information about the production and quality of this kind of hair dyes on domestic market, with the goal of uncovering the safety risks and providing supervision suggestions. The result shows that none of the eight prohibited components involved in the 32 components are detected in all investigated products. With regard to the 24 permitted hair dye components, phenyl methyl pyrazolone was found to exceed the permitted limit in 6 batches of the products. 17 batches of samples were inconsistent with the test results and the approved formulas, 16 batches of samples were inconsistent with the test results and the labels, and 5 batches of samples were inconsistent with the approved formulas and the labels. 17 batches of samples in total were problematic, with the problem discovery rate of 68%. According to the results, it is necessary to strengthen the inspection of hair dyes containing phenyl methyl pyrazolone, and carry out the special rectification in packages and labels. The reasons for the excessive addition of phenyl methyl pyrazolone was analyzed in the survey. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Determination of kathon content in oral care products by high performance liquid chromatography and verification by HPLC-MS/MS WANG Cong,YAN Yan,WANG Chao,WANG Xiu-juan,SU Ning,YU Meng-yuan 2020, 50 (1):  59-63.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.01.011 Abstract ( 429 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1058KB) ( 386 )   A high performance liquid chromatography method for the determination of kathon in oral care products was established. It was dissolved in water and methanol, and after ultrasonic extraction and filtration, a column of C18 column （250 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm） was used. The mobile phase was methanol and water （45∶55,V/V） and the quantitatively analysis was carried out at a wavelength of 275 nm in 15 minutes. The results show that methylchloroisothiazolone （CMIT） and methylisothiazolone （MIT） have good separation performance, among which the linear range is 0.07-10 mg/L （R 2>0.999 0）. The limits of quantitation （LOQs） and detection （LODs） are 0.7 and 0.2 mg/kg, respectively. The recovery rate of the actual sample is 96.1%-101.4%, and the relative standard deviation （RSDs） is between 1.1% and 5.6%. The linear range of methylchloroisothiazolone is 0.2-30 mg/L （R 2>0.999 0）. The limits of quantitation （LOQs） and detection （LODs） are 2 and 0.6 mg/kg, respectively. The spiked recovery and relative standard deviation range of the actual samples are 96.0%-101.8% and 1.0%-2.9%, respectively. The detection of the kathon sample can be confirmed by liquid chromatography-tandem quadrupole mass spectrometry （HPLC-MS/MS）. The analytical method is simple, accurate and rapid, and it is suitable for the determination of kathon in oral care products. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Determination of fifteen prohibited substances in cosmetics by ultra performance liquid chromatography-triple quadrupole mass spectrometry CAO Hai-rong,LI Xiao-yu,XUE Xiao-kang 2020, 50 (1):  64-70.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.01.012 Abstract ( 343 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (885KB) ( 300 )   An analytical method of ultra performance liquid chromatography-triple quadrupole mass spectrometry （UPLC-MS/MS） was developed for the simultaneous determination of 15 prohibited substances （diphenhydramine, tripelennamine, chlorpheniramine, etc.） in cosmetics. The UPLC separation was carried out on a Waters Acquity UPLC? BEH C18 column （1.7 μm × 2.1 mm × 50 mm） by gradient elution using methanol and ammonium acetate-formic acid solution. The flow rate was 0.4 mL/min and the sample injection amount was 3 μL. The electrospray ionization source in positive ion mode （ESI +） was used for qualitative analysis and quantitative analysis of fifteen prohibited drugs in the multiple reaction monitoring （MRM） mode. The established method exhibited a good linear relationship in the corresponding concentration range. The linear correlation coefficient is 0.999 3-0.999 9; the recoveries of standard addition are between 87.21%-99.39% （n=3）; the relative standard deviation is 2.28%-5.27% （n=6）; the detection limit range is 0.014 3-0.239 2 mg/kg; the limit of quantification range is 0.004 3-0.797 2 mg/kg. The method is accurate and reliable, and is suitable for simultaneous determination of various prohibited substances in cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics