阿胶开发为化妆品原料的有效成分及安全性分析

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.01.007

Abstract

Abstract:

Ejiao （Dong’e Ejiao） was analyzed by high resolution mass spectrum （HRMS） to identify its components, and its safety as a cosmetic raw material was systematically evaluated. The results showed that Ejiao contained abundant functional and nutritive ingredients such as amino acids, vitamins, sugars and lipids, which had good development value. No obvious cytotoxic effect on epidermis and dermal cells was observed when the solid to liquid ratio of Ejiao solution was below 1∶100 （g∶mL）; there was no phototoxic effect, eye irritation/corrosive effect, or skin irritation/corrosive effect. The results showed that Ejiao had the efficacy value of being a cosmetic raw material with sufficient basic toxicological safety.

Key words: Ejiao, raw material of cosmetics, ingredient, safety

CLC Number:

TQ658

TIE Hang,LIAO Feng,WANG Chao,YAN Yan,XIE Xiao,SU Ning. The active ingredients and safety analysis of colla corii asini as a cosmetic raw material[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2020, 50(1): 38-43.

Figures/Tables 6

Fig. 1

Tab. 1

Identification of components in Ejiao by LC-MS"

序号	名称	CAS号	分类	保留时间/min	序号	名称	CAS号	分类	保留时间/min
1	4-氨基丁酸	56-12-2	氨基酸及其衍生物	0.902	20	磷酸	7664-38-2	其他	0.93
2	L-丝氨酸	56-45-1	氨基酸及其衍生物	0.876	21	尿囊素	97-59-6	其他	0.953
3	L-苏氨酸	72-19-5	氨基酸及其衍生物	0.882	22	垅牛儿酸	459-80-3	其他	8.864
4	牛磺酸	107-35-7	氨基酸及其衍生物	0.895	23	L-肌肽	305-84-0	其他	0.794
5	L-焦谷氨酸	98-79-3	氨基酸及其衍生物	1.425	24	（3α,5α）-16-烯-3-甾醇	1153-51-1	其他	5.589
6	L-亮氨酸	61-90-5	氨基酸及其衍生物	1.738	25	D-木糖酸	/	糖类	0.922
7	L-天门冬氨酸	56-84-8	氨基酸及其衍生物	0.893	26	D-无水葡萄糖	/	糖类	0.975
8	L-谷氨酰胺	56-85-9	氨基酸及其衍生物	0.883	27	半乳糖醇	608-66-2	糖类	0.882
9	L-赖氨酸	56-87-1	氨基酸及其衍生物	0.816	28	葡萄糖酸	526-95-4	糖类	0.914
10	L-谷氨酸	56-86-0	氨基酸及其衍生物	0.902	29	N-乙酰葡糖胺-1-磷酸	6866-69-9	糖类	0.917
11	L-组氨酸	71-00-1	氨基酸及其衍生物	0.839	30	海藻糖	99-20-7	糖类	0.912
12	DL-Phenylalanine	63-91-2	氨基酸及其衍生物	2.956	31	D-泛酸钙	79-83-4	维生素类	3.511
13	Desaminotyrosine	501-97-3	氨基酸及其衍生物	4.346	32	乳酸	50-21-5	有机酸类	1.112
14	DL-Arginine	74-79-3	氨基酸及其衍生物	0.841	33	DL-苹果酸	6915-15-7	有机酸类	0.983
15	DL-TYROSINE	60-18-4	氨基酸及其衍生物	1.534	34	水杨酸	69-72-7	有机酸类	3.967
16	L-色氨酸	73-22-3	氨基酸及其衍生物	3.712	35	环己基乙酸	5292-21-7	有机酸类	5.275
17	DL-4-氯苯丙氨酸	7424-00-2	内标	3.725	36	丁酰乙酸乙酯	3249-68-1	有机酸类	5.342
18	2,6-二羟基嘌呤	69-89-6	嘌呤类	1.409	37	焦碳酸二乙酯	1609-47-8	有机酸类	0.884
19	丙二醛	542-78-9	其他	0.884	38	尿酸	69-93-2	有机酸类	0.986
39	乙酰丙酸丁酯	2052-15-5	有机酸类	5.474	64	（+/-）12（13）- DiHOME	/	脂质类	7.382
40	马尿酸	495-69-2	有机酸类	4.026	65	羟基癸酸	/	脂质类	7.987
41	柠檬酸	77-92-9	有机酸类	0.998	66	15S-羟基二十碳三烯酸	/	脂质类	9.16
42	银杏酸	22910-60-7	有机酸类	9.063	67	（15Z）-9,12,13-三羟基-15-十八烯酸	/	脂质类	5.345
43	月桂酸	143-07-7	脂质	9.457	68	（10E）-9,12,13-三羟基-10-十八烯酸	/	脂质类	5.88
44	正癸酸	334-48-5	脂质类	8.054	69	乙基二十碳五烯酸	/	脂质类	11.815
45	壬二酸	123-99-9	脂质类	4.803	70	（5Z）-9,15-二氧代-前列腺-5,10- 二烯-1-酸	74872-89-2	脂质类	5.536
46	羟基癸酸	/	脂质类	6.078	71	前列腺素A1	14152-28-4	脂质类	6.682
47	癸二酸	111-20-6	脂质类	7.416	72	[5S,12R]-二羟基-[6Z,8E,10E,14Z]- 二十碳四烯酸	71160-24-2	脂质类	6.743
48	O-乙酰基-L-肉碱盐酸盐	5080-50-2	脂质类	4.169	73	2-[[（Z）-十八碳- 9-烯酰基]氨基] 乙酸	2601-90-3	脂质类	10.968
49	端羟基12酸	505-95-3	脂质类	7.406	74	月桂酰-L-肉碱	25518-54-1	脂质类	9.873
50	甘油磷酸甘油	61468-73-3	脂质类	0.91	75	地诺前列酮	363-24-6	脂质类	5.535
51	十四酸乙酯	124-06-1	脂质类	8.339	76	6β-前列腺素I1	/	脂质类	5.807
52	棕榈酸	57-10-3	脂质类	12.737	77	前列腺素E1	745-65-3	脂质类	5.594
53	3-酮基十六烷酸	/	脂质类	9.208	78	前列腺素 F1α	745-62-0	脂质类	5.938
54	亚油酸	60-33-3	脂质类	11.814	79	13,14-二氢前列腺素E1	19313-28-1	脂质类	5.689
55	油酸	112-80-1	脂质类	8.654	80	甘油磷脂-N-棕榈酰乙醇胺	100575-09-5	脂质类	8.299
56	硬脂酸	57-11-4	脂质类	9.711	81	1-十六烷基-SN-丙三醇-3-磷乙醇胺	/	脂质类	8.067
57	十六碳二酸	/	脂质类	6.508	82	2-亚油酰基-sn-甘油-3-磷酸乙醇胺	/	脂质类	7.866
58	肉豆蔻醇硫酸盐	/	脂质类	15.02	83	1-油酰基-sn-甘油- 3-磷酸乙醇胺	201738-24-1	脂质类	8.654
59	13-KODE	/	脂质类	8.965	84	1-硬脂酰基-sn-甘油-3-磷酸乙醇胺	/	脂质类	9.42
60	蓖麻油酸	/	脂质类	11.768	85	1-十六酰-SN-丙三醇-磷酸胆碱	/	脂质类	9.123
61	12-羟基硬脂酸	/	脂质类	9.809	86	甘油磷酸-N-花生四烯酸乙醇胺	201738-25-2	脂质类	7.715
62	花生四烯酸	506-32-1	脂质类	9.112	87	油酰-溶血磷脂酰胆碱	/	脂质类	10.836
63	顺式-8,11,14-二十烷三烯酸甲酯	1783-84-2	脂质类	12.294	88	1-（9Z-十六碳烯基）- 2-（9Z,12Z-十八碳二烯酰基）-sn-甘油	/	脂质类	13.84

Tab. 1

Fig. 2

Tab. 2

Fig. 3

Tab. 3

References 16

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ρ （阿胶）（g·L^-1）	有光照细胞相对活性/%	有光照IC₅₀	无光照细胞相对活性/%	无光照IC₅₀	PIF	结果判定^[6]
0.078 1	99.76	/	109.42	/	*1	无光毒性
0.156 3	97.48		118.23
0.312 5	96.49		118.12
0.625 0	95.65		116.40
1.250 0	95.23		114.56
2.500 0	95.37		120.76
5.000 0	95.23		120.18
10.000 0	98.60		120.76

检测样品	相对组织活力/%	SD	判定标准^[8]
阴性对照	100.00	6.91	相对组织活性>50%,SD≤18%：不具有皮肤刺激性; 相对组织活性≤50%,SD≤18%：具有皮肤刺激性
阳性对照	1.10	0.29
阿胶溶液	127.39	5.72

The active ingredients and safety analysis of colla corii asini as a cosmetic raw material

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