Table of Content

22 February 2020, Volume 50 Issue 2 Previous Issue    Next Issue

Basic research

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Preparation and properties of perfluorocycloether/ glycerol emulsions ZHANG Yi-qiang, BAI Yan-yun, WANG Wan-xu, WANG Guo-yong 2020, 50 (2):  71-75.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.001 Abstract ( 447 )   HTML ( 99 )   PDF (1539KB) ( 302 )   The perfluorocycloether/glycerol emulsions were prepared and their stability was studied. Glycerol was used as the continuous phase, and perfluorocycloether was used as the dispersed phase. Three surfactants （AES, APG and SDS） were selected as emulsifiers. The systems were emulsified at 10 000 r/min for 5 min to obtain stable emulsions. The emulsions were stable after centrifugation at 6 000 r/min for 1 h. After the hot and cold storage stability test （40 ℃, -5 - -10 ℃, 24 h）, the emulsions could still remain stable. In addition, after standing at room temperature for 3 months, the emulsions remained stable and did not show phase separation. Then, the particle size change was studied by dynamic light scattering particle size analyzer. The results showed that the particle size change of the emulsions obeyed the Ostwald ripening rule. Secondly, the microscopic morphology of the emulsions and the particle size change within 3 weeks were observed by transmission electron microscopy, the results of which were consistent with those of the particle size analyzer. It proved that the emulsion stabilized with SDS was the most stable among the three emulsions. Finally, the rheological properties of the emulsions were studied. It proved that the emulsions stabilized with AES and SDS were based on viscous viscoelastic fluids, while the emulsion stabilized with APG was mainly based on viscosity. It was also verified that the emulsion stabilized with SDS was the most stable. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Protection of human skin cells against stress damage by use of Y2SK2 and SK3 type dehydrins from Agapanthus praecox LV Ke,LI Jing,ZHANG Di 2020, 50 (2):  76-85.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.002 Abstract ( 374 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1593KB) ( 653 )   Normal human skin fibroblast （NHSF） cells and HaCaT cells were applied to establish evaluation models of dehydration, light-aging and oxidative stress. Based on the models, the protective effects of Y2SK2 and SK3 type dehydrins from Agapanthus praecox （ApY2SK2 and ApSK3） on human skin cells were studied. The results showed that, the safe concentration of dehydrins was 0.01-10 μmol/L. Light-aging and oxidative stress could cause oxidative damage and apoptosis of human skin cells. 10 μmol/L ApSK3 could increase the activity of skin cells by 57%-91% after cryopreservation. ApSK3 could significantly improve the activity of skin cells under dehydration. Both the two dehydrins provided anti-oxidative protection for skin cells in the models of light-aging and oxidative stress, in which the level of malondialdehyde was decreased by 10%-36% and the activity of SOD was significantly increased for HaCaT cells. The activity of casepase-3 and casepase-8 was decreased by ApSK3 according to the oxidative stress model, and the occurrence of programmed cell death was reduced. The research showed that, Y2SK2 and SK3 type dehydrins from Agapanthus praecox could protect human skin cells against stress damage, the mechanism of which could possibly be related to the enhanced cell anti-oxidation and their participation in the process of cell apoptosis. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Lecture of science and technology

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Study on the design and synthesis of amphiphilic polymers and their synergistic systems （II）Theories and methods of the synthesis of amphiphilic polymers KANG Wan-li,XIE An-qing,ZHOU Bo-bo,WANG Fang,ZHANG Xiang-feng,YANG Hong-bin 2020, 50 (2):  86-91.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.003 Abstract ( 311 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (834KB) ( 295 )   Amphiphilic polymers have been applied to the exploitation of complex oil reservoirs due to their unique spatial architecture and hydrophobic association effects, and have achieved good application results. Based on the literature survey and the research results of our team in recent years, the current status of theories and methods for the synthesis of amphiphilic polymer has been reviewed, which mainly includes the development of amphiphilic polymers and their synthetic methods. The development process of amphiphilic polymers has been introduced; the current synthetic methods of amphiphilic polymers have been described, including heterogeneous/homogeneous synthesis, microemulsion polymerization, soap-free free-radical copolymerization, and free-radical micelle copolymerization. Finally, the advantages and disadvantages of the four synthetic methods are summarized, and the future development trend of synthetic methods is prospected. As the theories of synthesis of amphiphilic polymers gradually mature, the synthetic methods will become more diverse and efficient. The polymer performance will also be better, and their use in complex oil reservoirs will be further expanded. References | Related Articles | Metrics

Development and application

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Effect of inorganic salt on the properties of narrow distribution alcohol ether carboxylate XU Fu-li,ZHANG Wei,WANG Feng-shou 2020, 50 (2):  92-97.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.004 Abstract ( 301 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (949KB) ( 432 )   The effect of inorganic salt （NaCl, CaCl2, MgCl2, KCl, NH4Cl, ZnCl2） on the surface tension, wettability, foam, emulsification, decontamination and corrosion inhibition performance of narrow distribution alcohol ether carboxylate sodium （NAEC, EO number 3/5/7/9） aqueous solution were investigated. The results show that the inorganic salts have a significant influence on NAEC property. Inorganic salts significantly reduced the surface tension, and divalent salt had a better reduction effect than monovalent salt. The addition of inorganic salt could enhance the wetting effect on canvas, and the enhancement effect of CaCl2 and ZnCl2 was the strongest. In particular, ZnCl2 shortened the wetting time of NAEC9 from non-wetting to 173 s. Except for CaCl2, which significantly enhanced foaming and foam stability, other chloride salts accelerated the collapse of the foam. NH4Cl had the most significant effect on the emulsification of soybean oil. Inorganic salts were not good for the removal of black carbon and sebum stains, but good for the removal of protein stains. For NAEC5 with different EO numbers, the addition of 0.2% CaCl2 reduced the wetting time from 27 s to 5 s. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Effects of alcohols on the formation of microemulsions and the study on alcohol-free olive oil lip gel ZHANG Di,ZHANG Jing,TAN Xiao,JING Pan-pan,YE Dan,ZHANG Yun-shu,TIAN Qing-ping 2020, 50 (2):  98-106.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.005 Abstract ( 454 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF (1304KB) ( 359 )   The effects of co-surfactants （CoS）, i.e. alcohols, on the formation of microemulsions were investigated by the pseudo-ternary phase diagram, the oil/water interfacial tension, the physicochemical properties of microemulsions and the analysis of composition and structure of oils. The gel based on a CoS-free olive oil microemulsion was applied for the research and development of the lip gel. The results showed that CoS could improve the interfacial fluidity of microemulsions of different structural oils to avoid gelation and liquid crystallization. For the oils without -OH, the proper proportion of CoS could expand the region of microemulsion. For the oils containing -OH, the oil/water interface might be easy to form intermolecular hydrogen bonds, which reduced interfacial tension and improved the stability of the interface, but the CoS added would compete with the oil/water hydrogen bonding, which was not conducive to the formation of the microemulsion. Taking advantage of the tendency of alcohol-free microemulsions to form gels, a bicontinuous microemulsion of olive oil-vitamin E succinate with a mass ratio of oil phase to surfactant of 4∶6 and a water content of 50% was selected as the carrier. The lip gel obtained, which was stable and safe, had the mean particle size of （28.31±0.45） nm, the viscosity of （27.4±0.632） Pa·s, the pH of 5.70±0.036, and the appearance of pink transparent gel. It was light, hydrated, and easily absorbed. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Study on the effects of lipase on the detergency of the water-based ink-cleaner LIU Teng,ZHENG Yuan-lin,GE Ji-zhe,YANG Wei-dong,ZHANG Chao-zhong 2020, 50 (2):  107-111.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.006 Abstract ( 333 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (984KB) ( 475 )   The performance of water-based ink-cleaners at different lipase dosages was studied. Mixed systems of anionic and nonionic surfactants were used. A series of lipase-containing water-based ink-cleaners were evaluated in the aspects of stability, corrosion, cleansing power and foaming performance. The formulation was optimized. The results showed that the lipase-containing water-based ink-cleaners had good stability; the ink-cleaners containing lipase had good corrosion resistance, and the amount of lipase had no influence on corrosiveness; when the amount of lipase was 0.4%, the cleaning ability of the product was the best and the foaming power of the product was the minimum. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Rheological and UV protective properties of ultrafine TiO2 in silicone oil WANG You,ZUO Shi-xiang,LI Xia-zhang,LIU Wen-jie,XU Rong,ZHONG Jing,YAO Chao 2020, 50 (2):  112-117.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.007 Abstract ( 326 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (1133KB) ( 253 )   An ultrafine TiO2 dispersion slurry was prepared using ultrafine TiO2 as the raw material, PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane as the dispersant, and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane as the solvent. The effects of the amount of dispersant on the stability and viscosity of the dispersion slurry were studied in detail. The results indicated that, at a solid content of 30% and a dispersant dosage of 6%, the viscosity of the dispersion slurry was only 57.20 mPa·s, which had small thixotropy and high stability and was not easy to flocculate and settle. The sun protection factor （SPF） of the dispersion slurry was 11 with the active ingredient content of 5% in vaseline. The UV protective property of the slurry was significantly improved when compared with TiO2 powder whose SPF was merely 9. Rheological studies showed that the dispersion slurry was a pseudoplastic fluid with shear thinning characteristics. And the flow behavior could be fitted into the power law model. The effects of temperature on viscosity could be well described by the Arrhenius equation. It was found that the viscosity decreased with the increase of temperature. Moreover, the higher the solid content, the more sensitive the viscosity as changed with temperature. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Reviews

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Properties of polyglycerol fatty acid esters and its applications in cosmetics LIU Xiao-qing,LIU Yu-hang,CHEN Yu-yan,JIANG Li-gang 2020, 50 (2):  118-123.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.008 Abstract ( 1126 )   HTML ( 53 )   PDF (780KB) ( 1608 )   The synthesis, structure and properties of polyglycerol fatty acid esters were summarized, and the application of polyglycerol fatty acid esters in cosmetics was introduced, including makeup remover products, cleaning products, lotions, O/W creams, W/O creams and make up products. The development trend of polyglycerol fatty acid ester products and its broad application progress in the cosmetics industry were prospected. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Advances in the applications of microcapsules in cosmetics ZHANG Hui-na,HE Yi-fan,LI Li 2020, 50 (2):  124-128.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.009 Abstract ( 1019 )   HTML ( 61 )   PDF (812KB) ( 1074 )   The development of microcapsule technology was reviewed, the research progress of microcapsules in cosmetics was emphasized, and the application examples of microcapsules in the cosmetics market were highlighted. Finally, the challenges of microcapsule technology were discussed. Based on the current development status of cosmetics, the future development direction of microcapsules in the field of cosmetics was described. References | Related Articles | Metrics

Analytical methods and testing

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Determination of 24 allergens in cosmetics by gas chromatography triple quadrupole mass spectrometry HUANG Xue-hong,ZHANG Lin-tian,LI Guan-si 2020, 50 (2):  129-136.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.010 Abstract ( 344 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1066KB) ( 467 )   A simultaneous determination method was developed for the reliable screening, quantification and confirmation of 24 allergens in cosmetics by gas chromatography triple quadrupole mass spectrometry （GC-MS/MS） . The samples were ultrasonic extracted from cosmetics with methanol, and then qualitative and quantitative analysis was performed by GC-MS/MS under multi reaction monitor mode （MRM） . The results show that the 24 allergens have a good linear relationship in the range of 0.1-10.0 mg/L with correlative coefficients （r 2） larger than 0.993, and the average recoveries range from 81.8% to 106.7% at three spiked levels with relative standard deviations of 1.3%-8.7%. The detection limit is 1-3 mg/kg and the quantification limit is 10 mg/kg. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Rapid determination of 14 sexual hormones in cosmetics by ultra high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry LI Zhuo,RAO Ya-kun,ZHANG Di-yue,ZHANG Ya-feng,GAO An-cheng,ZHANG Hai-long 2020, 50 (2):  137-142.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.011 Abstract ( 265 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (977KB) ( 276 )   A method of ultra high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry was developed for simultaneous determination of 14 sexual hormones in cosmetics without matrix effects. After the sample was dispersed in saturated sodium chloride, it was extracted with acetonitrile, frozen and centrifuged, and diluted 10 times with acetonitrile to eliminate the matrix effect. The extracts were separated using gradient elution of water and methanol as mobile phase. The analysis of the target compounds was performed under multiple reaction monitoring. The results show that the 14 sexual hormones have a good linearity in the range of 10-200 μg/L with correlation coefficients （r） more than 0.995, and the average recoveries of the method are 90.8%-115.2%. This method is accurate, sensitive, specific, low detection limit and can be used for the qualitative and quantitative determinations of 14 kinds of sexual hormones in cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics