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    22 September 2024, Volume 54 Issue 9 Previous Issue    Next Issue
    Basic research
    Study on the silicon dioxide encapsulation for the enhancement of vitamin C stability
    Meiling Shi, Juanbo Chen, Hao Li, Yuanqin Huang, Qiqing Zhang, Sa Zeng, Tao Meng
    2024, 54 (9):  1015-1022.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.001
    Abstract ( 3137 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF (2190KB) ( 55 )  

    To improve the stability of vitamin C(Vc) in cosmetics, Vc was coated with silica dioxide (Vc@SiO2), modified by silane (Vc@s-SiO2) and dispersed in decanoyl/octanoyl-glycerides (GTCC) oil phase system. The experimental results show that the encapsulation rate and drug loading rate are 68.2% and 13.6%, respectively, when Vc is encapsulated into silica dioxide. After modification, the surface of Vc@s-SiO2 is hydrophobic and the contact angle increases from 33.6° to 130.7°. When Vc is maintained at 50 ℃ or exposed to ultraviolet light, Vc@s-SiO2 exhibits an increase in antioxidant activity by 11.4 times and 27.7 times, respectively, compared to free Vc. This study reveals that silica dioxide coated Vc and dispersed in GTCC can isolate the adverse factors such as water oxygen, reduce the activity loss and improve the stability of Vc.

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    Lecture of science and technology
    Preparation, properties and applications of natural biomass materials (Ⅸ)The soluble, stable, multi-functional natural polysaccharide gum: fenugreek gum
    Yu Gao, Yejie Zhou, Yuanming Li, Qiyuan Liu, Yadi Liu, Jinshi Fan
    2024, 54 (9):  1023-1029.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.002
    Abstract ( 2643 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (1152KB) ( 38 )  

    Fenugreek gum (FG) is one kind of water-soluble natural polysaccharides extracted from the endosperm of fenugreek legumes. It has appropriate physical and chemical properties, such as water solubility, water binding capacity, thickening ability, thermal stability, emulsifying ability, film-forming property, as well as salutary pharmacological actions like hypoglycemic activity, antihyperlipidemic effect, and antioxgenation property. Moreover, its physical, chemical properties and application performance can be significantly improved by physical modification, chemical modification, blending modification and enzymatic modification. Therefore, fenugreek gum has been gained more and more attention in many fields, including daily-use chemical industry, food processing industry, pharmaceutical industry, and oil recovery. In this paper, the name, extraction source, chemical structure, the main physicochemical properties of fenugreek gum along with its extraction and purification technologies, common modification methods are briefly presented. Furthermore, the application areas of fenugreek gum and its modified products, and the current challenges faced in its development, as well as the future research direction and prospects for the development of fenugreek gum are also discussed in this paper.

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    Development and application
    Skin care efficacy study of recombinant humanized collagen based on in vitro level
    Jian Wang, Yuhui Fan, Danfeng Li, Ningwen Cheng, Ling Li, Yufeng Yu
    2024, 54 (9):  1030-1038.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.003
    Abstract ( 2507 )   HTML ( 25 )   PDF (1489KB) ( 90 )  

    Studying the skin care efficacy of recombinant humanized collagen based on in vitro level. The stability of the recombinant humanized collagen was first analyzed by treating at different temperatures, then its skincare efficacy based on in vitro level was evaluated by detecting the inhibition rate of elastase, the inhibition rate of collagenase, the protein content of type I collagen in human fibroblasts, the inhibition of reactive oxygen species (ROS) with human keratinocytes, and the effects of the recombinant humanized collagen on the expression of hyaluronic acid (HA), filaggrin (FLG) and transglutaminase 1 (TGM1) in keratinocytes. The results showed that recombinant humanized collagen was able to maintain stability at temperatures below 70 ℃. With regard to its skincare efficacy, recombinant humanized collagen could inhibit elastase and collagenase activities and promote the increase of type I collagen content in human fibroblasts. It also showed good inhibition of ROS in keratinocytes in vitro and could increase the expression of HA, FLG, and TGM1 in keratinocytes. In short, the recombinant humanized collagen exhibited a favourable skin care effect in vitro level. This study proved that it has potential firming, anti-wrinkle, moisturizing, and repairing efficacy, and is a valuable cosmetic raw material.

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    Extraction and antioxidant activity of total flavonoids from chamomile
    Chuanmao Li, Zhi Qiu, Fengliang Wang, Shengjie Lin, Hui Deng, Yingwei Li
    2024, 54 (9):  1039-1049.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.004
    Abstract ( 78 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (1477KB) ( 56 )  

    By optimizing the extraction and purification process, the study first used supercritical CO2 to remove the lipophilic components of chamomile, and then combined with ultrasound assisted the extraction of total flavonoids from chamomile. The total flavonoids in chamomile were separated and purified using macroporous resin, and the total flavonoid components were analyzed and characterized. The optimal process conditions for obtaining supercritical CO2 to remove fat soluble components from chamomile are: extraction temperature of 50 ℃, extraction time of 60 minutes, extraction pressure of 25 MPa, and chamomile fat removal rate of 8.66%. The optimal process conditions for ultrasound assisted extraction of total flavonoids from chamomile are: ultrasound time of 15 minutes, ethanol volume fraction of 50%, solid-liquid ratio of 1∶25 (g∶mL), ultrasound power of 200 W, and total flavonoid extraction rate of 4.25%. After purification, the purity of total flavonoids in chamomile increase from 6.04% to 52.25%, while the purity of total flavonoids in chamomile is only 25.47% using the same purification process using a single ultrasound assisted extraction method without supercritical CO2 extraction. The results show that the combination of supercritical CO2 extraction and ultrasound assisted extraction can more efficiently extract total flavonoids from chamomile, and reduce the odor. The purified total flavonoids from chamomile can effectively scavenge DPPH and ABTS free radicals, and have strong antioxidant activity.

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    Study on the synthesis and biological activity of P7 lipopeptide
    Wenjie Zhang, Feng Shi, Ruiqing Xian, Yuxiang Dong, Kai Guo, Shengli Ji
    2024, 54 (9):  1050-1058.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.005
    Abstract ( 54 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (1857KB) ( 53 )  

    P7 lipopeptide was synthesized through solid-phase peptide synthesis (SPPS) and hydrophobic-support-assisted liquid-phase peptide synthesis (LPPS). Molecular docking technique was used for docking the product with 3OCG protein. MTT assay and Griess reagent were used to detect the biological toxicity and anti-inflammatory activity of P7 lipopeptide. The synthesized P7 lipopeptide was characterized by mass spectrometry. For SPPS and LPPS methods, the yields were 34.45% and 66.31%, respectively; the material consumptions were 129.12 g and 83.08 g, respectively; the waste liquid volumes were 7.12 L and 3.38 L, respectively; PMI were 30.81 and 10.29, respectively; E factors were 1 700.62 and 419.70, respectively. The results of molecular docking showed that the docking binding energy between P7 lipopeptide and p38 protein kinase (3OCG) was the smallest. P7 lipopeptide formed hydrogen bonds with residues ARGA70, ARGA189, TYRA35, ARGA67, ASNA155, and ASPA168, and interacted with residues by van der Waals forces, π-alkyl groups, and carbon hydrogen bonds. P7 lipopeptide had no biological toxicity within the concentration of 32 μmol/L. Different concentrations of P7 lipopeptide could significantly downregulating the release of NO in LPS-induced RAW264.7 cell inflammatory model. In summary, the LPPS method had higher yield and lower raw material consumption compared with SPPS method, making it suitable for industrial production. The results of molecular docking and cell experiments indicated that the designed P7 lipopeptide had good anti-inflammatory and antiosteoporosis activities.

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    Study on the efficacy and mechanism of an amino acid combination in hair care
    Jiayi Fan, Wenshen Yu, Marina Bian, Zoe Yue, Jing Wang, Kuan Chang
    2024, 54 (9):  1059-1068.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.006
    Abstract ( 2480 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (1856KB) ( 90 )  

    The effect of a mixture of amino acids in hair care was studied. The repair effect of this raw material on hair was evaluated by stretching test and combing test. The experimental results showed that, the amino acid combination could increase the tension in the yield zone by 29.4% and reduce the combing work of hair by 22.4% (dry combing) and 18.1% (wet combing). According to the results of spectral characterization, fluorescent penetration test and stress relaxation test, it could be concluded that the amino acid combination could repair the broken bonds by permeating into the hair and thus achieve the effect of toughening, and make the hair lipid transfer to the hair surface, which lead to a repairing effect on the hair surface and improved the hair combability. In particular, it had significant repair effect on the damaged hair caused by perm and hair coloring.

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    The protective effect and mechanism of crude polysaccharide from Broussonetia papyrifera flower on UV-induced skin photodamage
    Zixuan Lai, Yuxuan Song, Xuewei Duan, Shiyun Liu, Bing Liu, Minjun Zhang, Huiwen Yang
    2024, 54 (9):  1069-1077.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.007
    Abstract ( 57 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (3270KB) ( 51 )  

    To investigate the protective effect of crude polysaccharide from Broussonetia papyrifera flower on skin photodamage, a total of 56 female Kunming mice were randomly divided into 7 groups: control group, model group, matrix gel group, vitamin A group, and crude polysaccharide low-dose, medium-dose and high-dose groups. The exposed back skin of the mice was irradiated by UVA to induce skin photodamage model, and the drugs were applied to the skin 1 hour before irradiation. After 8 weeks of continuous irradiation, the back skin was scored. The effects of crude polysaccharide from Broussonetia papyrifera flower on the back skin morphology, skin thickness and collagen fibers were investigated by hematoxylin-eosin and Masson staining. And the contents of skin hydroxyproline, SOD, GSH-Px, CAT, MDA, TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6, and the protein expressions of MMP-1/3, Nrf2, HO-1 and NF-κB pathway were also examined. Pre-treated skin with different dose of crude polysaccharide gel 1 hour before UVA irradiation can improve roughness and ulceration of the back skin to different degrees, ameliorate skin thickening, and dermal collagen damage. At the same time, the activities of SOD, GSH-Px and CAT in skin tissue are increased, and the content of MDA is decreased (P<0.05). The contents of pro-inflammatory cytokines, TNF-α, IL-1β and IL-6, are decreased (P<0.05). The contents of MMP-1 and MMP-3 are decreased significantly (P<0.05), the expression of Nrf2 and HO-1 protein are increased (P<0.01), and p-p65/p65 protein are decreased significantly (P<0.05) in the mouse back skin by pre-treatment with crude polysaccharide gel. The crude polysaccharide from Broussonetia papyrifera flower has a strong antioxidant activity in vitro, and a protective effect on UVA-induced mice skin photodamage in vivo. The mechanism may be related to the activation of Nrf2 and inhibition of NF-κB signaling pathway, leading to the regulation of antioxidative enzyme SOD and improvement of inflammatory response.

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    Research and evaluation the performance of MQ-type silicone resin
    Jieying He, Jiajing Cai, Feifei Wang
    2024, 54 (9):  1078-1085.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.008
    Abstract ( 2430 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (1924KB) ( 48 )  

    MQ silicone resin is the copolymerization product of tetraalkoxysilane (Q unit) and trimethylethoxysilane (M unit). It has a special double-layer tightly cross-linked spherical network structure, which not only has excellent water resistance, thermal stability and compatibility, but also is long-lasting, safe and non-irritating. So it has become one of the indispensable film-forming ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Therefore, it is vital to evaluate and screen the MQ silicone resin for improving the efficiency of formulation development. The molecular structure and film morphology of 21 MQ silicone resins were analyzed by GPC, microscopy and air permeability analyzer. According to the results, the relationship between the molecular structure of MQ and its application properties, such as film forming time, film brittleness, air permeability, water resistance, sweat resistance and oil resistance, were explored. The results show that the properties or performance of MQ silicone resin are depended on the size and distribution of its molecular weight. For the MQ-type silicone resin filmogen with higher molecular weight and narrower distribution, its film properties of hardness, water resistance and sweat resistance are enhanced with the increase of molecular weight, but its air permeability is subsequently weakened and film forming time is shorter. When the molecular weight decreases and the polymer dispersity index is almost unchanged or broadened, the MQ silicone resin show softer film, better oil resistance, longer film-forming time and higher air permeability.

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    Study and analysis of antibacterial and anti-inflammatory activity of extracts of Rhizoma imperatae in oral care products
    Zhiming Wei, Yaling Wang
    2024, 54 (9):  1086-1091.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.009
    Abstract ( 45 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (1122KB) ( 28 )  

    In vitro evaluation method was used to study the antibacterial and anti-inflammatory activity of extracts of Rhizoma imperataein in oral care products. Water, 50% ethanol, ethyl acetate, acetone and petroleum ether were used as solvents to extract Rhizoma imperatae, which was added to the toothpaste of silica system. The periodontitis model of 20 5-week-old SD rats was established by “cutting the gum+wire ligation+drop into the bacterial culture of periodontitis patients+feeding with high sugar sticky food”. The effects of extract from Rhizoma imperatae on periodontal pathogens [Actinobacteria (Aa), Porphyromonas gingivalis (Pg), Fusobacterium nucleatum (Fn), Puccinia intermedia (Pi), Selenium class standard bacteria (Tf), Puccinia melanogenes (Pn)], peripheral blood, inflammatory factors in gingival crevicular fluid [C-reactive protein (CRP), tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α), interleukin-1β (IL-1β), interleukin-6 (IL-6), prostaglandin E2 (PGE2)], and periodontal health indicators [Plaque index (PLI), depth of exploration (PD), bleeding index (BI)] of the rat periodontitis model were determined, and the acute oral toxicity experiment in mice was used to verify the safety of the extracts of Rhizoma imperatae used in oral care products. The results show that the extracts of Rhizoma imperatae can significantly reduce Aa, Pg, Fn, Pi, Tf, Pn, and reduce the expression of CRP, TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6, and PGE2. It has the activity of inhibiting periodontal pathogens, resisting periodontal inflammation, improving periodontal health, and is safe and reliable.

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    Study on the anti-photoaging effect of Paulownia fortunei leaf extract
    Lin Sun, Man Zhang
    2024, 54 (9):  1092-1098.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.010
    Abstract ( 69 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (1901KB) ( 50 )  

    The study aimed to investigate the effect of Paulownia fortunei leaf extract (PFLE) on ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced skin photoaging in mice. The mice were divided into 5 groups: normal control group (NC), model group (M), low-dose PFLE group (L-PFLE), medium-dose PFLE group (M-PFLE), and high-dose PFLE group (H-PFLE). Mice in NC group were not irradiated. Mice in the other groups were irradiated with UVB using ultraviolet photo-therapy equipment. On the day of UVB irradiation, mice in NC group and M group were smeared with cream on their backs, and mice in L-PFLE, M-PFLE and H-PFLE groups were smeared with 50, 100 and 200 mg/kg PFLE cream, respectively. The UVB irradiation and administration cycles were both 6 weeks. The body weight, skin moisture content, skin oxidative stress indicators (SOD, CAT, GSH-Px and MDA), HYP and HA levels of the mice were detected. HE staining was used to observe skin morphology. The protein expression levels of Nrf2 (nucleus), Keap1 and HO-1 in the skin were detected by Western blotting. The transcript levels of MMP-1 and MMP-3 in the skin were detected by RT-qPCR. The results show that compared with M group, the skin moisture content of the mice in L-PFLE group, M-PFLE group and H-PFLE group increases, the skin morphological changes are significantly improved, the levels of SOD, CAT and GSH-Px increase, the MDA level decreases, the relative expressions of Nrf2 (nucleus) and HO-1 protein increase, the relative expression of Keap1 protein decreases, the levels of HYP and HA increase, and the relative expressions of MMP-1 and MMP-3 mRNA decrease (P<0.05). This study shows that transdermal administration of PELE has a good anti-skin photoaging effect.

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    Study on the efficacy of yeast/zinc fermentation products in scalp care
    Xiaopeng You, Ning Peng, Zhixian Chen
    2024, 54 (9):  1099-1105.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.011
    Abstract ( 71 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (2392KB) ( 78 )  

    The efficacy of yeast/zinc fermentation products in scalp care were studied from the aspects of safety, oil control and dandruff removal, and hair follicle maintenance. The safety of yeast/zinc fermentation products was tested through human patch testing. In vitro SZ95 cell model was used to study the oil-control efficacy of yeast/zinc fermentation products. The method of qRT-PCR was used to verify the expression of oil-secretion-related genes SREBP-1c, PPARG, and PI3K. Spectrophotometry was used to test the effect of yeast/zinc fermentation products on 5α-reductase. The oil-control effect of yeast/zinc fermentation products on scalp and the maintenance effect on hair follicles were studied through human efficacy testing and in vitro hair follicle model, respectively. The results showed that the yeast/zinc fermentation products at a content of 5% was safe and harmless to human health; the yeast/zinc fermentation products with a content of 0.8%-1.5% could significantly inhibit the activity of 5α-reductase. The yeast/zinc fermentation products at a content of 0.5%-2.0% could significantly inhibit the secretion of oil in SZ95 cells in vitro, and significantly downregulate the expression of oil-secretion-related genes SREBP-1c and PPARG. The yeast/zinc fermentation products at content of 1.0% and 2.0% could significantly inhibit the expression of PI3K. The yeast/zinc fermentation products at a content of 5% could significantly reduce scalp oil secretion, improve hair follicle cycle, and promote hair shaft growth. Therefore, the yeast/zinc fermentation products had certain scalp care effects and had positive effects in controlling oil, improving hair follicle health, and promoting hair shaft growth.

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    Characterization of recombinant elastin and its roles in ultraviolet-induced skin photoaging
    Ya Zhang, Hao Zhou, Rong Wang, Zengmiao Hou, Wentao Huang, Lu Yang
    2024, 54 (9):  1106-1116.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.012
    Abstract ( 76 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1459KB) ( 56 )  

    The recombinant-elastin engineering bacteria was constructed by genetic engineering technology, and then recombinant elastin was obtained by fermentation purification technology. The recombinant elastin was characterized and identified by N-terminal sequencing of amino acids, molecular weight determination, analysis of amino acid composition, protein purity analysis, endotoxicity determination, infrared spectroscopy and circular dichroism analysis. To explore the roles of recombinant elastin in UVB-induced skin photoaging, the effects of recombinant elastin on the adhesion ability and cell viability of L929 mouse embryonic fibroblasts, as well as the effects of recombinant elastin on the expression levels of Collagen Ⅰ, Collagen Ⅲ, Elastin and matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1), were investigated in the model of UVB-induced L929 cell photoaging. The results showed that the secondary structure of recombinant elastin was similar to that of natural elastin. The recombinant elastin showed certain cell viability and no cytotoxicity at 0.1 mg/mL, which significantly promoted the adhesion and proliferation of L929 cells. Additionally, recombinant elastin could also improve the mRNA transcription levels of Collagen Ⅰ, Collagen Ⅲ and Elastin in UVB irradiated cells by down-regulating the expression of MMP-1 in UVB irradiated cells, thus protecting L929 cells from light damage. That was why recombinant elastin could improve the survival rate of photodamaged fibroblasts.

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    Protective effect of silk fibroin on UVB-induced skin injury
    Shengpeng Li, Jing Li, Chao Liang, Ran Zhao, Xiaojie Zhang, Lili Sun
    2024, 54 (9):  1117-1124.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.013
    Abstract ( 61 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (4761KB) ( 46 )  

    As a natural macromolecular protein extracted from silk, silk fibroin (SF) has been widely used as biological material in recent years due to its antioxidant and photodamage reduction effects. To study the protective effect of silk fibroin against skin photodamage, the immortalized human keratinocyte line (HaCaT) was used as a model for study of UVB injury. Intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the levels of calcium ions (Ca2+) were measured by ELISA and fluorescence microscopy. The expression of transient receptor potential cation channel subfamily V member 1 (TRPV1) and the expression of Claudin-1 were detected by immunofluorescence assay. In addition, western blotting was used to analyze the expression of tight junction proteins occludin and Claudin-1. The results showed that 120 mJ/cm2 of UVB stimulation significantly reduced cell viability, while the presence of 100 μg/mL silk fibroin significantly increased cell viability. UVB stimulation could increase the level of intracellular ROS, activate TRPV1 channels, and induce the increase of intracellular Ca2+ level. Meanwhile, the levels of inflammatory cytokines interleukin-1α (IL-1α) (P<0.01) and S100A8 (P<0.05) were also significantly increased, which caused inflammation. However, the effect of UVB on HaCaT cells with the addition of silk fibroin was significantly decreased (P<0.05). In conclusion, UVB could disrupt the structural integrity of barrier proteins, resulting in the decreased expression of the barrier proteins Claudin-1 and occludin. The addition of silk fibroin could reduce such effect and protect the tightly connected structure. Therefore, silk fibroin might have great potential to protect skin from UV-induced inflammation, barrier damage and oxidative stress damage.

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    Reviews
    Research on packaging design strategies for children’s toiletries based on behavior design
    Qi Zhou, Haomin Shen, Chang Liu
    2024, 54 (9):  1125-1132.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.014
    Abstract ( 61 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (2020KB) ( 43 )  

    In order to enhance children’s experience in daily cleaning, cultivate good daily hygiene and cleaning habits, and improve the service quality and core competitiveness of children’s toiletries brands, relevant design strategies for children’s toiletries packaging are proposed from the perspective of behavior design. Firstly, through online and offline research, we investigate the current status of packaging design for children’s toiletries on the market, and summarize the design characteristics. Then, based on the current situation of packaging design for children’s toiletries and children’s attitudes towards cleaning behavior, the rationality and necessity of incorporating behavior design into the packaging design of children’s toiletries are clarified. Finally, based on the design points of behavior design in packaging of children’s toiletries, combined with the Fogg behavior model and the Peak-end rule, relevant design strategies are proposed from four aspects: enhancing user motivation, reducing difficulty in use, enhancing the effectiveness of packaging behavior prompts, and seizing the “peak” and “endpoint” in the user experience process. Case analysis is used to explain the specific implementation methods of relevant design strategies. The availability and reliability of these design strategies are indirectly confirmed, expecting to provide new design ideas for the packaging design of children’s toiletries.

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    Analytical methods and testing
    Determination of transdermal permeation of sunscreen by confocal Raman spectroscopy and its application
    Yu Xie, Shaofeng Zhang, Wucheng Yang, Jiaying Xie, Ruifang Fan, Jianhua Tan
    2024, 54 (9):  1133-1139.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.015
    Abstract ( 3143 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (1657KB) ( 45 )  

    Based on laser confocal Raman spectroscopy technology, a real-time in vivo testing method for the depth distribution and transdermal penetration of sunscreen in the stratum corneum of the skin was established using a skin component analyzer combined with multivariate linear regression analysis. Using volunteers’ arms as the experimental subject, the consistency of transdermal penetration ability of three common sunscreen agents, OMC, DBHB, and EHT, was tested and analyzed in different skin regions of the arm. And the transdermal penetration of the sunscreen agents in sunscreen lotions with different formulation was compared. The results indicate that the relative standard deviation of the skin penetration of sunscreen in different areas on the inner side of the arm is less than 15%, indicating that the method is suitable for comparison of the skin penetration of different sunscreen products. After one hour of skin penetration, it is found that the transdermal penetration of the three sunscreen agents in the skin is reduced by about 60%, and the penetration depth of EHT is relatively shallow, when the in oil-in-water sunscreen compared to the nano emulsion sunscreen. This method has been effectively applied in the study of transdermal penetration of sunscreen agents, and can provide methodological references for transdermal absorption of cosmetics.

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    Determination of Pb, As and Hg contents in powder cosmetics by hydride generation-non-dispersive atomic fluorescence spectrometry
    Ping Liu, Lei Cheng
    2024, 54 (9):  1140-1144.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.016
    Abstract ( 49 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (1166KB) ( 24 )  

    This study established and optimized a method for the determination of lead (Pb), arsenic (As) and mercury (Hg) in 10 powder cosmetics using hydride generation-non-dispersive atomic fluorescence spectrometry (HG-NDAFS). This study determines that the optimal carrier gas flow rate is 400 mL/min and the optimal shielding gas flow rate is 800 mL/min. The negative high voltage and lamp current are optimized, and the atomizer height is determined to be 8 mm. When optimizing the reductant system, 1.5% is selected as the best KBH4 solution. The carrying current is 2.4 mol/L HCl. The standard recovery rates of Pb, As, and Hg are 83.44%-90.32%, 83.22%-86.59%, 81.43%-89.94% respectively. The standard recovery rates are good. Among the 10 types of pressed powder, 2 types of pressed powder are detected to contain Pb (0.48 and 0.27 mg/kg), 1 type of pressed powder contained As (0.62 mg/kg), and 1 type of pressed powder contained Hg (0.11 mg/kg). The contents of Pb, As, and Hg in the 10 kinds of powder cosmetics do not exceed the standard. In a word, the HG-NDAFS method established in this study for the determination of Pb, As and Hg in powder cosmetics is accurate and can be used for the determination of Pb, As and Hg in powder cosmetics.

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