Table of Content

22 January 2024, Volume 54 Issue 1 Previous Issue    Next Issue

Basic research

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Dual-responsive oil-in-water emulsions co-stabilized by a nonionic-anionic Bola surfactant and silica nanoparticles Pei Liu, Ting Pan, Xiaomei Pei, Binglei Song, Jianzhong Jiang, Zhenggang Cui, Bernard P. Binks 2024, 54 (1):  1-15.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.001 Abstract ( 126 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF (5178KB) ( 253 )   A smart nonionic-anionic Bola surfactant was synthesized which could be switched between nonionic form CH3O （EO） 5-R11-COOH （pHKa=6.6） and Bola form CH3O（EO） 5-R11-COONa （pH>pKa） as triggered by pH. Individually, the nonionic/Bola forms behaved as poor/good emulsifiers, respectively. When the nonionic form was mixed with silica nanoparticles, they could co-stabilize n-decane-in-water Pickering emulsions, where the silica nanoparticles were hydrophobized in situ to be surface-active by adsorption of the surfactant via hydrogen bonding. The Pickering emulsions could be switched between stable and unstable statuses many times as triggered by either pH or temperature. On the other hand, the Bola form could co-stabilize oil-in-dispersion emulsions with silica nanoparticles, which were resistant to heating but were sensitive to the salt formed during pH alternation. However, in contrast to the CH3 （EO） 7-R11-COONa which could completely transfer to aqueous phase after demulsification, its analogue with shorter EO chain, i.e., CH3 （EO） 5-R11-COONa, was still partially oil-soluble either in nonionic form or in bola form, suggesting a significant effect of EO number on the performance of these novel smart surfactants. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Synthesis and properties of Gemini quaternary ammonium surfactant based on stearate Haokang Ai, Yajie Jiang, Yakui Wang, Lu Zhang, Tao Geng 2024, 54 (1):  16-23.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.002 Abstract ( 96 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF (1448KB) ( 85 )   A Gemini quaternary ammonium surfactant based on stearate （EG-18） was synthesized from stearic acid, N,N-dimethylethanolamine and 1,4-dibromobutane. EG-18 was characterized by IR and 1H NMR. The surface activity of EG-18 was studied by measuring the static surface tension and dynamic surface tension. The critical micelle concentration （cmc） of EG-18 was 1.32×10-3 mol/L, and the equilibrium surface tension at cmc （γcmc） was 35.68 mN/m. The results of dynamic surface tension vs. time showed that, when the concentration of EG-18 solution was as low as 1×10-5 mol/L, only induction region could be found in the curve, and the fast fall region and meso-equilibrium region would gradually appear with the increase of concentration. Equilibrium region was not founded at higher concentration （e.g., 1×10-2 mol/L） of EG-18 solution, due to the high steric hindrance of the Gemini surfactant, which hindered the rate of migration to the liquid surface. The results of dynamic contact angle showed that, the contact angle of EG-18 solution decreased with the increase of concentration, i.e., the wetting effect of EG-18 solution on paraffin film increased. The differences between EG-18, D1821 and esterquat in wetting ability, turbidity, antistatic properties, softness and fabric whiteness were studied. The results showed that EG-18 had the highest solubility among the three. EG-18 had certain wetting ability to paraffin film, but its wetting ability was weaker than that of D1821 and esterquat. The antistatic performance of EG-18 was stronger than that of D1821. In terms of softness, the softening properties of the three substances were basically the same, and compared with the blank control group, the white cotton cloth was significantly softened. EG-18 had the least influence on the whiteness of white cotton cloth. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Lecture of science and technology

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New emulsion system and its application in cosmetics （V） Janus emulsion Xu Han, Jiajia Wu, Na Wu, Yazhuo Shang 2024, 54 (1):  24-31.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.003 Abstract ( 144 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF (2191KB) ( 114 )   Janus emulsion is a polydisperse system composed of two immiscible liquid phases in the internal phase. The composition, physicochemical properties as well as the shapes of the compartments in the internal phase of Janus emulsion are asymmetry, which endow the emulsion anisotropy. Janus emulsion not only maintains the fundamental properties of the traditional emulsion, the selective solubilization, isolation, protection and sustained-release property to the functional materials are better than that of the traditional emulsion due to its unique structural advantages including two isolated compartments, various interfaces and flexible structure, larger interface area etc. The topologies of Janus emulsion are diverse and the properties of Janus emulsion are quantitatively tunable. The type, quantity and relative area of the interface within the system can be adjusted by tailoring the type, content of emulsifier and the proportion of each phase, so as to regulate the properties of the system to meet different requirements of application. The Janus emulsion has potential applications in the fields of cosmetics, food, biomedicine and microreactor. In this paper, the Janus emulsion and its preparation method are introduced firstly and then the factors of affecting the properties of Janus emulsion are summarized. The performance advantages of the Janus emulsion are elaborated too. Based on the current research and application status of Janus emulsion, the application prospect of Janus emulsion in cosmetics is discussed. At the same time, another new type of anisotropic emulsion, Cerberus emulsion is also briefly introduced. Finally, the limitations of the application of Janus emulsion in the field of cosmetics are put forward and personal views on the problems to be solved are proposed, which may provide necessary reference information for the development of Janus emulsion with excellent performance and its practical application in the field of cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Development and application

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Study on the phase behavior of sodium lauroyl methyltaurate mediated by Ca2+ Wanping Zhang, Yanzhong Lin, Qianjie Zhang, Dongmei Zhang, Wen Jiang 2024, 54 (1):  32-37.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.004 Abstract ( 79 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (1690KB) ( 66 )   The effects of high-valent inorganic salts on the surface activity and phase behavior of anionic surfactant sodium lauroyl methyl taurate （or sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, SMLT） were studied. The effects of Ca2+ concentration on the surface tension of SMLT solution and the effects of different SMLT/Ca2+ molar ratios on the phase behavior of SMLT in water were investigated. The results showed that the addition of an appropriate amount of Ca2+ had significant impact on the surface activity. When the Ca2+ concentration was increased from 0 to 0.1 mol/L, the cmc decreased from 8.0×10-3 mol/L to 8.0×10-4 mol/L, and the γcmc decreased from 36.00 mN/m to 31.45 mN/m. Meanwhile, by adding Ca2+ to the SMLT solution, the binary phase diagram of the SMLT/water system showed phase regions of micellar solution region, wormlike micelle region, hexagonal liquid crystal region, lamellar liquid crystal region, and micelle-crystal region. The original aqueous two-phase region disappeared, and the micelle-crystal region became larger. When examining the effect of Ca2+ concentration on the viscosity of SMLT solution, it was found that, with a molar ratio of SMLT/Ca2+ of 1, the viscosity was significantly increased, while at a molar ratio of 0.6, solid precipitated from the solution. An SMLT solution at mass fraction of 20% was selected for measurement of rheological performance. According to the rheological curve of the sample, a phenomenon of shear thinning was observed, and the formation of wormlike micelles was observed by cryogenic transmission electron microscopy. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Rapid quantitative analysis of soluble/ionic fluoride in toothpastes Dongxia Cao, Lei Zhou, Jiahong Li, Changqin Lin, Jinling Chen 2024, 54 (1):  38-44.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.005 Abstract ( 71 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (1280KB) ( 52 )   Low-field nuclear magnetic resonance （LF-NMR） and high-field solid-state nuclear magnetic resonance （SS-NMR） were effectively combined to systematically study the fluoride in toothpastes, and a rapid LF-NMR method for quantitative analysis of soluble/ionic fluoride in toothpastes was established. The results showed that the relative standard deviations （RSDs） of LF-NMR in 6 parallel tests were all within 2%, indicative of high precision. In the actual sample test, 117 toothpaste samples were selected, and the relative deviation between LF-NMR data and national standard test data was within±5% for the 110 toothpaste samples therein. For the other 7 samples, the quantitative data of LF-NMR were significantly different from that of the national standard method. Combined with the analysis results of SS-NMR, it was found that the difference was due to the existence of insoluble fluoride substances in the system, which affected the relaxation time of the whole system and therefore the results of LF-NMR were lower than that of the national standard method. Nevertheless, LF-NMR could still be used as a fast screening method to reflect the quality of toothpaste in time. The LF-NMR method was a very fast quantitative analysis method, the toothpaste samples could be directly tested without any pre-treatment, and the whole test process was approximately 5 min. In addition, combined with SS-NMR technology, the systems which were applicable to be measured with LF-NMR quantitative test were further defined. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Establishment of duplex-PCR method for rapid detection of Pluralibacter gergoviae Feng Liu, Yuanchang Deng, Guohong Ying, Xiaowei Wang 2024, 54 (1):  45-50.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.006 Abstract ( 66 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1468KB) ( 66 )   A rapid detection method for Pluralibacter gergoviae was established, and this method was used to quickly and effectively detect Pluralibacter gergoviae in samples. Four house-keeping genes （gyrB, infB, atpD and ropB） were selected as target genes, and 4 pairs of primers were designed. The bacterial suspension was used as amplification, and the 4 pairs of primers could specifically bind with the Pluralibacter gergoviae to produce bright DNA bands. Among the four pairs of primers, only gyrB-F/gyrB-R and ropB-F/ropB-R obtained a small amount of non-specific DNA bands when Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Enterobacter cloacae and Burkholderia cepacia were used as DNA templates. Two pairs of specific primers gyrB-F/gyrB-R and ropB-F/ropB-R（insert） were used to establish the rapid detection method of duplex-PCR for Pluralibacter gergoviae in rinsing cosmetics. The specificity of duplex-PCR was improved by optimizing the annealing temperature of amplification. When the annealing temperature was 60 ℃, using the primer pairs gyrB-F/gyrB-R and ropB-F/ropB-R （insert） to amplify 4 strains of Pluralibacter gergoviae, two specific target DNA bands were obtained, but Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Enterobacter cloacae and Burkholderia cepacia would obtain non-specific DNA bands. When the annealing temperature was optimized and set at 65 ℃, the specific target DNA bands could be amplified when 4 strains of Pluralibacter gergoviae were used as DNA templates. When Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Enterobacter cloacae and Burkholderia cepacia were used as DNA templates, no DNA bands were detected. When the concentration of Pluralibacter gergoviae in the sample reached 4.4 CFU/mL, duplex-PCR was able to detect Pluralibacter gergoviae in the sample with high sensitivity. Duplex-PCR method could be used to quickly detect the Pluralibacter gergoviae in the rinsing cosmetics such as shower gel and shampoo. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Analysis of the causes of skin irritation of niacinamide cosmetics based on patch test and stability test Yaru Wang, Tingyuan Mo, Hongxia Lai, Yue Zhou, Jiaying Xie, Jianhua Tan 2024, 54 (1):  51-56.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.007 Abstract ( 124 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1293KB) ( 91 )   To investigate the main causes of skin adverse reactions caused by niacinamide cosmetics, niacin and niacinamide patch test in healthy volunteers, and niacinamide cosmetics stability test were conducted. Niacinamide cosmetics were selected to perform patch test on healthy volunteers, and the content of niacin and niacinamide were measured. Subsequently, patch tests of niacin solution with different content （0.000 5%, 0.001%, 0.01%, 0.025%） and 3% niacinamide solution were carried out, and the stability test of niacinamide cosmetics was carried out. The results are shown as following: among 45 kinds of niacinamide cosmetics selected, 17 kinds of them cause skin reactions by patch test （accounting for 37.8% of the total）, and niacin is detected in 41 kinds （accounting for 91.1%） with the content of 0.000 15%-0.026 6%. Self-established skin reaction scoring method is used for scoring, and the total score of skin reaction is significantly positively correlated with the niacin content （r=0.406, P=0.006）, but not significantly correlated with the niacinamide content （r=0.099, P=0.517）. There are no significant differences among skin irritation of 0.000 5% niacin solution, 0.001% niacin solution, 3% niacinamide solution and the negative control （P>0.05）. There are significant differences between skin irritation of 0.025% niacin and the negative control, or between skin irritation of 0.01% niacin and the negative control （P<0.05）. Niacinamide cosmetics are placed at 25 ℃ for 8 weeks and the content of niacin are stable, while niacin content are gradually increased at 55 ℃ for 8 weeks. Hence, niacin is potentially irritating to healthy human skin, and the degree of irritation worsens with the increase of the content. In addition, for niacinamide cosmetics, part of niacinamide slowly hydrolyze to niacin under high temperature, which may cause adverse reactions on the skin of the sensitive consumers. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Determination of four polyphenols and study on antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of extracts from callus of Eryngium maritimum L. Xue Xiao, Huirong Zhang, Shuowen Li, Sunhua Li, Miaomiao Guo, Li Li 2024, 54 (1):  57-64.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.008 Abstract ( 87 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (1499KB) ( 207 )   The preparation of extracts from callus of Eryngium maritimum was conducted by hot water reflux method. A method for simultaneous determination of rosmarinic acid, cryptochlorogenic acid, hyperoside, quercetin-3-O-（6''-O-acetyl）-β-D-glucopyranoside in the callus extract of Eryngium maritimum was established based on high performance liquid chromatography. The scavenging ability of the extracts on DPPH and ABTS free radicals were determined. The screening samples were also assayed by the CCK-8 method to determine the concentration of drug administration and a model of HaCaT cell inflammation induced by Cutibacterium acnes was established to evaluate its anti-inflammatory efficacy. The results show that the extracts contain the highest amount of cryptochlorogenic acid at 5.23 mg/g, and the contents of rosmarinic acid, quercetin-3-O-（6''-O-acetyl）-β-D-glucopyranoside and hyperin were 1.30, 0.50 and 0.08 mg/g, respectively. The extracts display antioxidant and anti-inflammatory abilities. The IC50 values of the extracts on DPPH and ABTS free radical scavenging ability are 0.323 9 and 0.296 5 mg/mL, respectively, and also have significant inhibitory effects on the secretion of IL-1β and IL-8 in HaCaT cells induced by Cutibacterium acnes （P<0.05）. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Protective effect and antioxidant mechanism of Danshensu on UVB-induced skin photoaging in mice Anna Wang, Mengjie Fang, Chao Tang, Tianxiang Yue 2024, 54 (1):  65-72.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.009 Abstract ( 94 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (2101KB) ( 61 )   The study aims to reveal the protective effect and antioxidant mechanism of Danshensu （DSS） on ultraviolet B （UVB）-induced skin photoaging （SP） in mice. In this study, a UVB-induced SP mouse model was established, and then the mice were treated with 3 doses of DSS （20, 40, and 80 mg/ （kg·d） for 8 weeks. After the treatment, the water content of the epidermis of the mice in each group was measured respectively. Skin tissue morphology was evaluated by HE staining, and collagen deposition was evaluated by Masson’s trichrome staining. The levels of oxidative stress indicators （SOD, CAT, GSH-Px and MDA） and inflammatory indicators （TNF-α and IL-6） in the skin tissue were determined according to the kit instructions. The mRNA or protein levels of MMP-1, CollagenI, Nrf2, Keap1, HO-1, NF-κB p65 and p-NF-κB p65 in the skin tissue were detected by RT-qPCT or Western blotting. The results show that DSS dose-dependently increases the water content of the epidermis of SP mice induced by UVB, alleviates skin damage, and promotes collagen formation （P<0.05）. DSS inhibits the UVB-induced transcription and expression of MMP-1 in the skin tissue of SP mice, and promotes the transcription and expression of Collagen （P<0.05）. DSS increases the levels of SOD, CAT and GSH-Px in the skin tissue of SP mice induced by UVB, and decreases the level of MDA （P<0.05）. DSS decreases the levels of TNF-α and IL-6 in the skin tissue of SP mice induced by UVB （P<0.05）. DSS promotes the transcription and expression of Nrf2 and HO-1 in the skin tissue of SP mice induced by UVB, and inhibits the transcription and expression of Keap1 （P<0.05）. DSS inhibits the expression of p-NF-κB p65 in the skin tissue of SP mice induced by UVB （P<0.05）. In conclusion, this study shows that DSS can effectively improve UVB-induced SP in mice, and its mechanism is related to Nrf2 and NF-κB signaling pathways. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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A study on the method of evaluating the efficacy of a firming cosmetic Yueying Ma, Qi Liu, Meng Jia, Junjie Wang, Wei Wang, Hua Zhao 2024, 54 (1):  73-79.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.010 Abstract ( 121 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (3281KB) ( 89 )   By evaluating the efficacy of a cosmetics with palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 as the main functional ingredient, the study establishes a clinical evaluation method system for firming efficacy. Thirty-one female subjects aged 20-50 were screened, and the skin indexes including the objective test data, image methods and subject self-assessment methods were evaluated after using the product for 0 week, 4 weeks and 8 weeks, respectively. The parameters of skin elasticity and skin dermal density in the cheeks and canthus of the subjects, as well as the TPEF images and the SHG images, were captured, and comparative analyses were carried out. The results show significant changes in skin elasticity, dermal density （P<0.001） and DEJI （P<0.01） after 8 weeks, which are consistent with the results of the subjects’ self-ratings, indicating a correlation between the methods. This research can provide technical supports for the establishment of a cosmetic firming efficacy evaluation method system. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Reviews

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Advances of functional components in whitening cosmetic Ning Li, Ennian Li, Hongbo Chen, Fang Cheng, Hengfang Zou, Hongpeng Chen 2024, 54 (1):  80-89.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.011 Abstract ( 199 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF (1529KB) ( 137 )   Excessive accumulation of melanin pigments may result in skin-related disorders such as post inflammatory pigmentation, solar lentigo, melasma and freckles. The mechanism of action of whitening cosmetics is related to the inhibition of melanin synthesis, reduction of melanin, and inhibition of melanosome transport. The whitening raw materials in spot-removing and whitening cosmetics achieve whitening effects by inhibiting the rate-limiting enzyme tyrosinase of the melanin biosynthesis pathway, participating in the regulation of the melanin biosynthesis signaling pathway, and reducing melanin or inhibiting melanosome transport and other mechanisms of action. With the increasing market demand for spot-removing and whitening cosmetics, more and more natural active ingredients are added to the cosmetics as whitening raw materials, but there are problems such as unclear composition and missing mechanism of action. In sequence to provide a theoretical foundation for the clinical strategy of skin pigmentation prevention and treatment as well as the product development of whitening cosmetics, the action mechanisms of the existing whitening cosmetic efficacy components cosmetics are sorted out and discussed in this paper. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Review on the mechanisms of skin pigmentation caused by blue light Junchen Liu, Xianyao Meng, Xiao Ling, Dan Yu, Miaomiao Guo, Li Li 2024, 54 (1):  90-94.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.012 Abstract ( 102 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (1888KB) ( 88 )   Blue light is a visible light in the wavelength range of 400-500 nm, which can cause damage to the periocular and ocular structures, accelerate skin aging, inhibit melatonin secretion, and cause skin pigmentation. Compared with UV light, blue light causes more intense and long-lasting skin pigmentation, but there are few studies on the mechanisms of skin pigmentation caused by blue light. In this review, the mechanisms of skin pigmentation caused by blue light have been systematically summarized. It is briefly described that, blue light affects melanocytes by mediating the effect of opsin 3 and finally increases the production of tyrosinase and dopachrome tautomerase （DCT）, leading to increased melanin synthesis in the skin; blue light can also affect melanocortin receptor-1, which in turn affects the production of interleukin-1 and endothelin receptor-1, which in turn acts on melanocortin receptor-1 and finally affects the α-MSH-MC1R pathway, leading to increased melanin. The final effect on the α-MSH-MC1R pathway leads to increased melanin synthesis, triggering skin pigmentation. This review could provide a better understanding of the mechanisms of skin pigmentation caused by blue light and provide a theoretical basis for subsequent studies. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Analysis and design of visual characteristics of image elements of water-soluble packagine detergent package Jian Zeng, Shihong Wang 2024, 54 (1):  95-101.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.013 Abstract ( 57 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (1245KB) ( 44 )   Image is the key element of visual communication in packaging design. In order to better realize the package design function of water-soluble packaging detergent, visual feature analysis and design were carried out for the image elements of water-soluble packaging detergent package. The main expression methods of image elements in water-soluble packaging detergent package are divided into two types: concrete image elements based on painting and photography for production and dissemination, and abstract image elements using innovation arrangements of points, lines and surfaces. The main purpose of packaging research and application is to protect the safety of detergent in the process of transportation and sales, and focus on presenting the relevant information of detergent. By analyzing the visual characteristics such as humanization, analysis and recall of the image elements of water-soluble packaging detergent package, the accuracy of obtaining the psychological feelings of water-soluble packaging detergent buyers by the packaging designers is improved. At the same time, combining the design directions of form, color association and text emotion improves the information communication function of water-soluble packaging detergent package design. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

Analytical methods and testing

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Determination of 3 kinds of α-hydroxy acids and their esters in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography Liyuan Zhang, Qiaoyuan Cheng, Cen Chen, Zehua Li, Liuqian Huang, Lvye Qi 2024, 54 (1):  102-106.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.014 Abstract ( 96 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (1113KB) ( 60 )   A method for the simultaneous determination of 3 kinds of α-hydroxy acids and their esters in cosmetics, including gluconic acid, glucolactone and lactose acid, was developed by high performance liquid chromatography （HPLC）, and the results were confirmed by high performance liquid chromatography- tandem mass spectrometry （HPLC-MS/MS）. The above three substances were extracted ultrasonically with water. The analytes were separated on a Comixsil HCS （4.6 mm×150 mm, 3 µm） column by elution with 0.04 mol/L diammonium hydrogen phosphate- acetonitrile as mobile phase, and detected at the wavelengths of 214 nm. Quantification analysis was performed by the external standard method. HPLC-MS/MS was used for gradient elution with 0.1% formic acid- acetonitrile containing 0.1% formic acid as mobile phase. The analytes were separated on a Waters T3-C18 （2.1 mm×100 mm, 1.8 µm） column. Qualitative analysis was performed by electronic spray ionization under a negative ion mode with multiple reaction monitoring （MRM）. The results indicate that gluconic acid and lactose acid show good linearity in its own concentration range with the correlation coefficient of R2>0.999. The detection limits of gluconic acid and glucolactone are 100 μg/g, and that of lactose acid is 500 μg/g. The average spiked recoveries of these three compounds in 4 cosmetic matrices are all in the range of 90.8%-110.1%, with the RSDs of 0.3%-4.4%. The results indicate that the method is simple, sensitive and accurate, and is suitable for the determination of 3 kinds of α-hydroxy acids and their esters in cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Determination of functional components of Glycyrrhizae, Ginseng and Scutellariae in facial masks by UHPLC-MS/MS Linling Lu, Hui Lu, Chunyan Min, Yefei Qian 2024, 54 (1):  107-113.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.015 Abstract ( 99 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1446KB) ( 64 )   An analytical method was established for the determination of Glycyrrhizae functional components （liquiritin and glycyrrhizic acid）, Ginseng functional components （ginsenoside Rg1, ginsenoside Rb1, ginsenoside Re） and Scutellariae functional components （baicalin） in facial mask cosmetics with ultra-high performance liquid chromatography triple quadrupole mass spectrometry （UHPLC-MS/MS）. This method was used to monitor the risk of 20 batches of samples sold on the market. The samples were extracted by ultrasonic method using 0.1% formic acid in methanol. The mobile phase was 0.1% formic acid aqueous solution-acetonitrile solution, and the gradient elution was carried out. The samples were separated on the ACQUITY UPLC HSS T3（2.1 mm×100 mm, 1.8 μm） column and detected by UHPLC-MS/MS negative ion mode. At the same time, the pretreatment conditions and UHPLC-MS/MS conditions were optimized and the method was verified. The results show that the method shows good linearity in the mass concentration range of 0.25-100 ng/mL for liquiritin and baicalin, and 0.50-200 ng/mL for ginsenoside Rg1, ginsenoside Rb1, ginsenoside Re and glycyrrhizic acid, with R no less than 0.998. The limits of detection are in the range of 0.41-6.4 μg/kg （S/N=3）. The average recoveries in the sample matrix of facial masks are from 95.9% to 109.1%, with the relative standard deviations （RSDs） less than 4.9% （n=6）. This method is suitable for the determination of ginseng functional components in the ginseng cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics

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Simultaneous determination of 24 coumarin compounds in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography and verification by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry Huiduan Long, Yixiang Lu, Jianglan Qin, Keming Zhang 2024, 54 (1):  114-122.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.016 Abstract ( 70 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (1153KB) ( 72 )   An analytical method for simultaneous determination of 24 coumarin compounds in cosmetics was established by high performance liquid chromatography. Samples with certain fluidity, such as lotions, creams, and water-based samples, were directly extracted with methanol by ultrasonic treatment, while solid samples （lipsticks, pressed powders, etc.） were ultrasonically extracted with mixed solvent of tetrahydrofuran-methanol （1∶1）. The compounds were separated on a CAPCELL CORE MGII C18 （4.6×250 mm, 5 μm） column, and gradient elution was carried out with methanol and 0.02 mol/L sodium dihydrogen phosphate buffer （pH 3.5） as the mobile phase. The flow rate was 1.0 mL/min. The quantification was done by external standard method, with PDA detector at multi-wavelength, and the suspected positive samples were confirmed by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry. The results showed that the 24 coumarin compounds showed good linearity, with correlation coefficient≥0.999 6 in their respective mass concentration range. The limits of detection and limits of quantification were 2-19 mg/kg and 5-63 mg/kg, respectively. At the three spiked levels of low, medium and high, the average recoveries ranged from 94.4% to 106.4%, and the relative standard deviations were between 0.5% and 3.3%. This method was simple, accurate and suitable for the determination of 24 coumarin compounds in cosmetics. Figures and Tables | References | Related Articles | Metrics