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2021年, 第51卷, 第7期　刊出日期：2021-07-22 上一期    下一期

基础研究

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烷基甜菜碱类两性离子型表面活性剂胶束化行为的分子模拟研究 Molecular simulation study on the micellization behavior of betaine-type zwitterionic surfactants 李勇斌,王文栋,陈健,沈家训,刘艺,孙霜青 2021 (7):  583-589.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.001 摘要 ( 317 )   HTML ( 62 )   PDF(1694KB) ( 447 )   以两性离子型表面活性剂甜菜碱为研究对象,采用粗粒度分子动力学方法,构建不同结构的烷基甜菜碱模型,考察其联结基团和疏水尾链对溶液体系中自聚体的溶液行为的影响,分析了自聚体胶束的弯曲角分布、相对形状各异性以及径向分布函数等参数,探究了球形、棒状、分支状胶束的形状转变机制。研究结果表明,随着浓度的增加,在联结基团的作用下,两性离子型表面活性剂分子发生弯曲,小胶束交联融合形成棒状—分支状胶束转变;疏水尾链长度增加会导致胶束体积变化从而降低分子间相互作用,小胶束易融合形成球形—棒状胶束的形状转变。文章为相似体系下的理论探索提供了一种创新的思维角度,对两性离子型表面活性剂的研究和应用有一定的指导意义。 Betaine-type zwitterionic surfactants were used as the research objects. The technique of coarse-grained molecular dynamics was used to construct alkyl betaine models of different structures, and the effects of linking group and hydrophobic tail on the aggregation in the solution system were investigated. The bending angle distribution, relative shape anisotropy and radial distribution function of aggregates （micelles） were analyzed. The shape transformation mechanism of spherical, rod-shaped and branched micelles was explored. The research results show that, with the increase of concentration, under the action of the linking group, the zwitterionic surfactant molecules bend and the small micelles are cross-linked and fused to form a rod-branched micelle transition; the increase of the chain length of hydrophobic tail will cause the changes in micelle volume thus to reduce the intermolecular interaction, and the small micelles are easy to fuse to form a sphere-to-rod transition. This article provides an innovative thinking angle for theoretical exploration for similar systems, and it has certain guiding significance for the research and application of zwitterionic surfactants. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

科技讲座

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化妆品植物原料（IV）——抑制黑色素合成信号通路的植物美白原料的研究与开发 Botanical cosmetic ingredient (IV) Research and development of skin whitening ingredients from plant extracts with melanogenesis signaling pathway inhibiting effect 任倩倩,吴华,金建明 2021 (7):  590-597.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.002 摘要 ( 669 )   HTML ( 27 )   PDF(1150KB) ( 792 )   人类的皮肤和头发的颜色取决于黑色素的数量、质量和分布。黑色素在保护皮肤免受各种环境的有害影响方面发挥巨大的作用。而黑色素过量合成会导致严重的皮肤问题。因此,研究黑色素生物合成的信号通路调控以及探究相关的经信号通路抑制黑色素合成的植物提取物具有非常重要的意义。本文综述了调控黑色素生物合成的信号通路和调控因子,包括α-MSH诱导的信号通路、PI3K/Akt信号通路、SCF/c-kit介导的MAPK信号通路、Wnt/β-catenin信号通路、NO/cGMP信号通路、以及细胞因子、转录因子PAX3和肝X受体。重点介绍通过调控各种信号通路抑制黑色素合成的植物提取物。这些植物提取物虽然通过不同的信号通路进行调控,但大多下调一种整合上游信号通路和调控下游基因的转录因子MITF的表达,进而降低酪氨酸酶（TYR）的表达,抑制细胞内黑色素的生物合成。 Human skin and hair color relies on the quantity, quality, and distribution of melanin. Melanin plays a monumental role in protecting the skin against the harmful effects of various environments. However, an excessive production of melanin causes serious dermatological problems. Hence, it is of great significance to study the regulation of melanogenesis signaling pathway and to explore the related plant extracts that inhibit melanin synthesis through these signaling pathways. This paper reviews the signaling pathways and regulatory factors that control melanin biosynthetic pathway, including α-MSH-induced signaling pathway, PI3K/Akt signaling pathway, SCF/c-kit-mediated MAPK signaling pathway, Wnt/β-catenin signaling pathway, NO-cGMP signaling pathway, and cytokines, transcription factor PAX3 and liver X-receptors. This paper focuses on plant extracts that inhibit melanin synthesis by regulating various signaling pathways. Although these plant extracts regulate different signaling pathways, most of them down-regulate the expression of MITF, a transcription factor that integrates upstream signaling pathways and regulates downstream genes, thereby reducing the expression of tyrosinase （TYR） and inhibiting the biosynthesis of melanin in cells. We hope this paper can provide information for better application of plant extracts in whitening cosmetics. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

开发与应用

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一种含酯基的酰胺型阳离子双子表面活性剂的合成及性能 Synthesis and properties of an amide cationic Gemini surfactant with ester groups 陆小豪,许虎君,林良良,常宽,高海燕 2021 (7):  598-605.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.003 摘要 ( 274 )   HTML ( 21 )   PDF(1706KB) ( 242 )   以溴乙酸、乙二醇、月桂酸和N,N-二甲基-1,3-二氨基丙烷为原料,通过三步反应合成了一种含酯基的酰胺型阳离子双子表面活性剂C12- （BAE） -C12,并通过红外光谱（FT-IR）、核磁共振氢谱（1H NMR）和质谱（MS）对产物结构进行了表征。通过表面张力、电导率和荧光3种不同方法测定了C12- （BAE） -C12的临界胶束浓度（cmc）,利用电导率法测定了其在25、35和45 ℃条件下的热力学函数,以及测定了其乳化和抗静电性能。结果表明,25 ℃时C12- （BAE） -C12在不同测定方法下的cmc分别为0.331 1、0.532 8和0.316 2 mmol/L,根据相关公式计算所得热力学参数进一步说明其胶束化过程为熵驱动,且升高温度会阻碍体系的胶束化。此外,相关应用性能测定结果还表明C12- （BAE） -C12与传统单链阳离子表面活性剂十二烷基三甲基溴化铵（DTAB）相比具有更好的乳化和抗静电效果。 An amide cationic Gemini surfactant with ester groups （C12- （BAE） -C12） was synthesized in three steps with bromoacetic acid, ethylene glycol, lauric acid and N, N-dimethyl-1, 3-diaminopropane as raw materials. The structure of the product was characterized by FT-IR, 1H NMR and mass spectrometry （MS）. The critical micelle concentration （cmc） of C12- （BAE） -C12 was determined by measurement of surface tension, conductivity and fluorescence. The thermodynamic parameters of C12- （BAE） -C12 were obtained from the results of conductivity at 25, 35 and 45 ℃. The emulsification and antistatic properties of C12- （BAE） -C12 were also measured. The results show that the cmc values of C12- （BAE） -C12 at 25 ℃ are 0.331 1, 0.532 8 and 0.316 2 mmol/L, respectively, as obtained by different methods. According to the results of conductivity, the thermodynamic parameters of micellization were calculated with the thermodynamic formulas. It is determined that the micellization process of C12- （BAE） -C12 is entropy-driven, and the increase of temperature will hinder the micellization of the surfactant. Furthermore, the results of application performance show that C12- （BAE） -C12 has better emulsification and antistatic effects than traditional single-chain cationic surfactant dodecyltrimethylammonium bromide （DTAB）. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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改性油脂乙氧基化物磺酸盐的性能测试及其在机洗餐具用洗涤剂中的应用 The performance test of modified oil ethoxylate sulfonate and its application in the automatic dishwashing detergent 李霁云,台秀梅,孙永强,郭凌霄,白艳云,关劲松 2021 (7):  606-611.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.004 摘要 ( 427 )   HTML ( 24 )   PDF(1129KB) ( 405 )   改性油脂乙氧基化物磺酸盐（SNS-80）是一种以植物油脂为原料得到的绿色环保的阴离子型表面活性剂,安全无刺激,可广泛应用于各类洗涤剂产品中。分别采用旋转黏度计、Ross-Miles泡沫仪、帆布沉降法、振荡法和改进的酸滴定法测试了SNS-80的黏度、发泡稳泡性能、润湿、乳化和钙皂分散力,并测试了SNS-80在室温和（95±2） ℃时的表观耐盐和耐碱性能;将SNS-80应用于机洗餐具用洗涤剂中,考察了其稳定性和去污性能,并与市售产品进行了比较。结果表明,SNS-80水溶液在整个浓度区间内都具有低的黏度,且无凝胶相区,起始泡沫高但消泡快,具有好的钙皂分散力,1 g SNS-80可以分散18.7 g钙皂;表观耐盐能力低温时较高温时好,对一价盐的耐受能力较二价盐高;而表观耐碱度则是在高温时好,在（95±2） ℃时可高达168 g/L。与市售机洗餐具洗涤剂相比,以SNS-80为主活性物得到的产品具有更好的去污能力。 The modified oil ethoxylate sulfonate （SNS-80） is a new green and environmentally friendly anionic surfactant. It is safe and non-irritating, and can be widely used in various detergent products. The viscosity, foaming power and foam stability, wetting, emulsification and calcium soap dispersing ability of SNS-80 were measured with rotational viscometer, Ross-Miles foam analyzer,canvas sedimentation method, shaking method and improved acid titration, respectively. The apparent salt resistance and alkali resistance of SNS-80 were tested at （25±2） and （95±2） ℃. The automatic dishwashing detergent containing SNS-80 was prepared. Its stability and detergency were investigated and compared with the commercial products sold in the market. The results showed that the aqueous solution of SNS-80 has low viscosity and no gel phase region in the whole concentration range, and it has high initial foam and fast defoaming, and has excellent calcium soap dispersing power （1 g SNS-80 can disperse 18.7 g calcium soap）. The apparent salt tolerance is better at low temperature than that at high temperature, and the tolerance to monovalent salt is higher than that of divalent salt. The apparent alkali resistance can reach 168 g/L at （95±2） ℃. Compared with the commercial automatic dishwashing detergent, the samples containing SNS-80 as the main component have better detergency. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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响应面法优化水解制备柞蚕丝素肽及其性能 Optimization of hydrolysis preparation of tussah fibroin peptides by response surface methodology and the performance thereof 米锐,李学军,马淑慧,孟楠,李树英,都兴范 2021 (7):  612-619.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.005 摘要 ( 224 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF(6846KB) ( 95 )   以柞蚕丝素蛋白为原料,用磷酸水解方法制备柞蚕丝素肽。在单因素实验基础上,通过响应面法优化制备工艺,考察各因素对柞蚕丝素肽回收率的影响,并对该工艺条件制备的样品进行了性能分析。结果表明：柞蚕丝素肽最佳水解工艺条件为：柞蚕丝素质量分数9.93%、水解温度91.11 ℃、水解时间5.44 h,理论回收率为70.34%,经检验实际回收率可以达到69%,与理论值基本相符,建立了响应面分析法优化的柞蚕丝素肽水解制备工艺。柞蚕丝素肽性能实验结果表明,样品具有良好的吸湿保湿性、防晒性及抑菌性,说明柞蚕丝素肽在天然护肤品开发方面具有良好的应用价值。 Tussah fibroin peptides were prepared from tussah silk fibroin by hydrolysis method with phosphoric acid. On the basis of single-factor test, the preparation process was optimized using the response surface methodology. The effects of various factors on the recovery of tussah fibroin peptides were investigated, and the performance of samples obtained under the optimized conditions was analyzed. The results show that the optimal hydrolysis conditions are as follows: the mass fraction of liquid material is 9.93%; the hydrolysis temperature is 91.11 ℃; the hydrolysis time is 5.44 h; the theoretical recovery rate is 70.34%. The actual recovery rate can reach 69% which is consistent with the theoretical level. The optimized hydrolysis technology for preparation of tussah fibroin peptides was established using response surface methodology. The performance experiments of tussah fibroin peptides show that the sample has good hygroscopic and moisturizing efficacy, and functions of sunscreen and bacteriostasis. Tussah silk peptides have high application value in the development of natural skin care products. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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1,8-桉叶素驱蚊止痒功效的研究 Study on the mosquito-repelling and antipruritic effects of 1, 8-cineole 陈凡,姚雷,王文翠 2021 (7):  620-625.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.006 摘要 ( 501 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF(1083KB) ( 281 )   为探究1,8-桉叶素驱蚊及其治疗局部皮肤过敏性瘙痒的效果,通过“Y”型嗅觉仪法测试了其在不同剂量梯度下对白纹伊蚊的驱避活性,采用4-氨基吡啶（4-AP）致小鼠瘙痒模型探讨了1,8-桉叶素（φ=5%,用橄榄油稀释）的止痒作用。结果表明,当1,8-桉叶素剂量为4.0 μL时,其在前4 min内对白纹伊蚊可达到100%的驱避率,且其对白纹伊蚊的驱避效果呈剂量依赖性增加;通过4-AP致小鼠瘙痒模型发现,与模型组相比,1,8-桉叶素组小鼠在10 min内的舔体次数显著减少,小鼠皮肤滤液中组胺与血清中白细胞介素31（IL-31）、血小板活化因子（PAF）、5-羟色胺（5-HT）含量均显著降低,病理切片显示1,8-桉叶素组小鼠皮肤未见水肿,同时炎细胞浸润减少。结论当1,8-桉叶素浓度达到一定值时,其对白纹伊蚊具有很好的驱避效果;且1,8-桉叶素具有显著的止痒效果,其发挥止痒作用与拮抗IL-31、PAF、5-HT、瘙痒介质组胺的释放有关。 To explore the mosquito repellent effect and the therapeutic properties of allergic skin itching of 1, 8-cineole, the repellent activity of 1, 8-cineole against Aedes albopictus under different doses was studied by the Y-tube olfactory test. The antipruritic effect of 1, 8-cineole （φ=5%, prepared with olive oil） was studied in an animal model of mice skin scratching response induced by 4-aminopyridine（4-AP）. The results show that 1, 8-cineole at the dose of 4.0 μL repels 100% of A. albopictus in the initial 4 minutes and the repellent effect of 1, 8-cineole against A. albopictus increases in a dose-dependent manner. In addition, mice experiments show that the scratching frequency of mice treated with 1, 8-cineole reduces significantly within 10 minutes; and the contents of serum interleukin 31 （IL-31）, platelet activating factor （PAF）, serotonin （5-HT） and histamine in the skin filtrate of mice treated with 1, 8-cineole are significantly reduced compared with the model group. The pathological sections show that no edema in the skin of mice in the 1, 8-cineole group is observed and the infiltration of inflammatory cells is inhibited. In conclusion, when the concentration of 1, 8-cineole reaches a certain value, it shows obvious repellent effect on A. albopictus. 1, 8-cineole also has a significant antipruritic effect through the mechanism of antagonizing the release of IL-31, PAF, 5-HT, as well as the mediator of itching, histamine. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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龙血复合物对人体皮肤细胞线粒体的作用研究 Promotion effects of Dragon’s Blood Complex on mitochondrial network and bioenergetics in normal human skin cells 蒋丹丹,王风楼,李慧,章漳 2021 (7):  626-631.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.007 摘要 ( 305 )   HTML ( 23 )   PDF(1324KB) ( 289 )   通过重建老化皮肤细胞的体外评估模型,评估龙血复合物（一种由4种活性成分复合而成的活性物）对正常人皮肤成纤维细胞和表皮角质形成细胞ATP含量和线粒体完整性（包括：线粒体形态、线粒体网络和线粒体融合蛋白-1的表达）的影响。ATP检测试剂盒测定成纤维细胞和角质形成细胞内ATP含量,荧光探针染色结合显微镜图像半定量方法评估线粒体形态和线粒体网络结构的丰度,免疫细胞荧光染色方法分析线粒体融合蛋白-1 （Mfn1） 的表达。实验结果显示,龙血复合物显著促进成纤维细胞和角质形成细胞ATP含量,显著促进角质形成细胞线粒体网络的形成,龙血复合物处理的成纤维细胞线粒体形态完整、碎片较少、具有更加丰富的分支结构,Mfn1的表达水平更高。研究发现龙血复合物通过促进细胞ATP产生、保持线粒体完整性、增加线粒体网络数、促进Mfn1的表达,显示出对成纤维细胞和角质形成细胞的抗衰老作用。本研究中使用的评估方法也可用于筛选针对与线粒体衰老和生物能量相关功能的活性成分。 In this study, normal human skin cells extracted from an aged donor were used to establish the in vitro senescent skin cell model. The bioenergetics effect was evaluated by measuring cellular ATP content using CellTiter-Glo® Reagent. Microscopic inspection and the semi-quantitative analysis methods of mitochondrial networks have been used to evaluate the mitochondria assembled into flexible networks in metabolically active cells. In the meantime, immuno-cytochemistry staining was used to futher understand the mechanism of mitochondria network formation, and the expression of Mitofusin-1 was investigated. With this model, the efficacy of Dragon’s Blood Complex （DBC）, a botanical complex composed of four active ingredients, was evaluated with normal human dermal fibroblasts and epidermal keratinocytes about its biofunctions on ATP production and mitochondrial integrity including morphology of mitochondria, aboundance of mitochondrial networks, and the expression of Mitofusin-1. The results show that the ATP level in senescent fibroblasts and keratinocytes is significantly increased by Dragon’s Blood Complex. The relative ATP content of fibroblasts is 117.7%±4.3% compared with the control group （P<0.01） when treated with 0.25% DBC. When treated with 0.5%, 0.25%, and 0.1% DBC, the relative ATP content of keratinocytes, compared with the control group, are 149.8%±9.0%, 147.5%±6.4%, and 134.0%±8.3%, respectively （P<0.001）. By incubation with 0.25% DBC, the count of mitochondrial network in senescent keratinocytes is significantly promoted （P<0.05）. And in the DBC-treated fibroblasts, the mitochondria networks are less fragmented and more extensively branched in morphology. Besides, Mitofusin-1 is more widely and abundantly expressed in the DBC-treated fibroblasts. This might partly explain the promotion effect of DBC on mitochondria networks. In summary, DBC shows anti-aging effects on fibroblasts and keratinocytes by promoting the cellular ATP and mitochondria. The evaluation method used in this study can also be applied to the screening of more active ingredients targeting the functions relevant with mitochondrial aging and bioenergetics. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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山茶油对D-半乳糖致衰老小鼠皮肤抗衰老功效的代谢组学研究 Metabolomics study of anti-aging effect of Camelliaoil on the skin of D-galactose-induced aging mice 吴亚妮,唐寅,王姝畅,王莹,吕晓帆 2021 (7):  632-638.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.008 摘要 ( 357 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF(1342KB) ( 344 )   研究山茶籽原油、山茶花润肤油对D-半乳糖致衰老模型小鼠皮肤的抗衰老效果以及生理机制。采用气相色谱-飞行时间质谱联用（GC-TOF/MS）技术,检测正常组、模型组、山茶籽原油组、山茶花润肤油组和维生素E组（阳性对照）小鼠的皮肤组织,进行代谢组学研究。差异代谢物分析表明,正常组与模型组间的差异代谢物是丙酸、亚油酸、氨基丙二酸、天冬氨酸、酪氨酸、琥珀酸、硬脂酸、丙氨酸和脯氨酸;模型组与山茶籽原油组间的差异代谢物是棕榈酸;模型组与山茶花润肤油组间的差异代谢物是丙酸、琥珀酸、氨基丙二酸、硬脂酸、延胡索酸、脯氨酸、亚油酸和丙氨酸;模型组与维生素E组间的差异代谢物是丙酸、琥珀酸、氨基丙二酸、硬脂酸、亚油酸、天冬氨酸、脯氨酸和磷酸。代谢通路分析显示主要涉及到三条：丙氨酸、天冬氨酸和谷氨酸通路;苯丙氨酸、酪氨酸和色氨酸通路;亚油酸通路。 The aim of the study was to explore the anti-aging effect and physiological mechanism of Camellia seed oil and Camellia emollient oil on the skin of D-galactose-induced aging mice. The skin tissues of mice in normal group, model group, Camellia seed oil group, Camellia emollient oil group and vitamin E group （positive control） were analyzed by gas chromatography time-of-flight mass spectrometry （GC-TOF/MS）. After obtaining the data, the multidimensional statistical method was used to analyze the data and to mine the biological information. The data were analyzed by the mathematical model of principal component analysis （PCA） and orthogonal projections to latent structures discriminant analysis （OPLS-DA）, and the differential metabolites were determined by the indices of variable importance in the projection （VIP） andp value. The differential metabolites which were filtered out were substituted into the MetaboAnalyst platform, and the important metabolic pathways involved were screened by indices of pathway impact and p value. The analysis of differential metabolites shows that the differential metabolites between normal group and model group are propionic acid, linoleic acid, aminomalonic acid, aspartic acid, tyrosine, succinic acid, stearic acid, alanine and proline; the differential metabolite between model group andCamellia seed oil group is palmitic acid; the differential metabolites between model group and Camelliaemollient oil group are propionic acid, succinic acid, aminomalonic acid, stearic acid, fumaric acid, proline, linoleic acid and alanine; the differential metabolites between model group and vitamin E group are propionic acid, succinic acid, aminomalonic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, aspartic acid, proline and phosphoric acid. Camellia seed oil and Camellia emollient oil can regulate the metabolism disorder of the skin of D-galactose-induced aging mice. From the perspective of the number of differential metabolites, Camellia emollient oil is better than Camelliaseed oil, close to vitamin E in the anti-aging effect of skin. Metabolic pathway analysis indicates three major metabolic pathways: alanine, aspartic acid, and glutamic acid metabolism, phenylalanine, tyrosine, and tryptophan metabolism, and linoleic acid metabolism. Through further analysis, it is speculated that the effect of Camellia emollient oil andCamellia seed oil may be related to the regulation of oxidative stress. This research result may provide a reference for further study revealing the anti-aging mechanism of Camellia oil. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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染料穿透试验结合损伤评分对洗涤和消毒产品皮肤腐蚀性的快速分类 Rapid classification of skin corrosion of detergents and disinfectants: a combined method of dye penetration and damage grading 潘叙恩,何志荣,卢章顺,杨光,钟岸,黄志鹏 2021 (7):  639-647.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.009 摘要 ( 177 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF(1884KB) ( 202 )   结合损伤评分和优化的染料穿透实验,以离体皮肤为受试材料,建立了一种洗涤和消毒产品皮肤腐蚀性的快速分类方法。通过构建和考察染药时间-观察时间-损伤效应曲面,确定了损伤评分的判定条件。比较受试皮肤在不同提取条件下的染料提取效果,优化了染料穿透实验的关键条件,采用超声波提取的方法缩短了实验时间,提高了实验效率。利用16个参考物质对该方法进行验证,获得一致性良好的结果（Kappa=0.826,P=0.000）,腐蚀性判别的灵敏度、特异度和准确度分别达到100%,85.7%和93.8%,腐蚀性分类的准确度达到87.5%。该方法简便、高效、节约成本和时间且符合动物伦理3R原则,适用于大量样品的腐蚀性快速筛查和分类,对加强化学品的安全管理,预防和减少化学品事故具有重要意义。 A combined method of in-vitro skin damage grading and dye penetration was established for rapid classification of skin corrosion of detergents and disinfectants. By constructing and investigating the surface of exposure time-observation time-skin reaction grade, the criteria base on the damage grading were determined. The dye extraction effect of the tested skin under different extraction conditions was compared, and the key condition of the dye penetration experiment was optimized. The utilizing of ultrasonic extraction shortens the experiment time and improves the efficiency of the experiment. The method is verified with 16 reference substances, and the results are well consistent （ Kappa=0.826, P=0.000）. The sensitivity, specificity and accuracy of the corrosive judgment are 100%, 85.7% and 93.8%, respectively, and the accuracy of the corrosive classification is 87.5%. The method is convenient, rapid, efficient and low-cost, and conforms to 3Rs principle of animal research ethics. Thus, it is suitable for rapid classification of a large number of samples to enhance the safety management of chemicals and prevent the chemical accidents. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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不同种类甘草成分及美白抗敏活性差异研究 Study on the differences in the composition and the whitening and anti-allergy activities of different kinds of licorice 张兴琪,何敬愉,龚盛昭,刘林峰 2021 (7):  648-654.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.010 摘要 ( 451 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF(1304KB) ( 469 )   以甘草的3种不同基源植物胀果甘草、光果甘草及甘草为研究对象,比较其成分及活性差异。采用高效液相色谱法测定甘草苷、甘草酸及光甘草定的含量,并进行比较;通过紫外分光法比较3种甘草的总黄酮含量差异,并对酪氨酸酶及透明质酸酶活性抑制进行比较。结果显示,高效液相色谱法的精密度、稳定性、重复性、加样回收率的RSD值均不大于2.09%;含量分析结果表明,甘草酸及光甘草定在光果甘草中含量最高,甘草苷在甘草含量中最高。甘草药材总黄酮含量大小顺序为：光果甘草>甘草>胀果甘草;对酪氨酸酶抑制率大小顺序为：光果甘草>甘草>胀果甘草,IC50值分别为7.36,8.38和11.13 mg/L;对透明质酸酶抑制率大小顺序为：胀果甘草>甘草>光果甘草,IC50值分别为8.70,9.19和10.45 mg/mL。3种甘草对酪氨酸酶及透明质酸酶抑制良好,可能具有较好的美白和抗敏功效,为了达到最佳效果需要区分使用。 Three different plants of licorice, G. inflata, G. glabra and G. uralensis, were used as the research objects to compare the differences in the composition and activities. The content of liquiritin, glycyrrhizic acid and glabridin was determined by HPLC-DAD; the difference in total flavonoid content was compared by UV spectrophotometry, and the inhibition of tyrosinase and hyaluronidase activities was compared. The target compounds were extracted with 70% ethanol, and separated on an Agilent Poroshell 120 EC-C18 （150 mm×4.6 mm, 2.7 µm） in gradient elution program using methanol and 0.05% phosphoric acid as mobile phase, at a flow rate of 1 mL/min at 30 ℃, and using a detection wavelength of 270 nm. The validated HPLC method shows good linear relationship with correlation coefficients larger than 0.998 85. The relative standard deviation （RSD） values of precision, stability and repeatability are less than 0.89%. The average recoveries are in the range of 97.50%-99.60% with the RSD values less than 2.09%. The analysis results show that the content of glycyrrhizic acid and glabridin are the highest inG. glabra, and the content of liquiritin is the highest in G. uralensis; the total flavonoid content of licorice ranks in a sequence that G. glabra > G. uralensis > G. inflata; The sequence of inhibition rate of tyrosinase isG. glabra > G. uralensis > G. inflate, and their IC50 values are 7.36, 8.38 and 11.13 mg/L, respectively; the sequence of inhibition rate of hyaluronidase is G. inflata > G. uralensis > G. glabra, and their IC50 values are 8.70, 9.19 and 10.45 mg/mL, respectively. The three kinds of licorice may have good whitening and anti-allergy effects because of their good inhibition of tyrosinase and hyaluronidase. To achieve the best effect, they need to be used separately. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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大麻二酚的抗炎和抑菌活性研究 Investigation on the anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity of cannabidiol 刘娟,余思宜,翟文丽,李国庆,李学涛,刘继涛 2021 (7):  655-661.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.011 摘要 ( 486 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF(1461KB) ( 357 )   采用CCK-8法考察大麻二酚（CBD）对HaCat细胞和RAW264.7细胞相对细胞活性的影响。采用LPS诱导的HaCat细胞和RAW264.7细胞炎症模型考察CBD对炎症因子分泌的抑制作用。采用抑菌环和抑菌率等实验方法对CBD抑制厌氧菌痤疮丙酸杆菌（P.acnes）的效果进行测试。结果表明,CBD浓度低于20 μmol/L时,其对正常/炎症HaCat细胞以及正常/炎症RAW264.7细胞均无细胞毒性,也不会促进相关细胞的增殖分化;CBD对炎症RAW264.7模型中TNF-α具有良好的抑制作用,10 μmol/L浓度下与阳性对照地塞米松（DEX）效果相当,对两种炎症模型中IL-6均有显著抑制作用,20 μmol/L浓度下对两种炎症模型中IL-1β均有显著抑制作用,浓度为10、20 μmol/L时对两种炎症模型中IFN-γ均有显著抑制作用,表明其具有良好的抗炎活性;将CBD乳液作用于 P.acnes,实验结果显示CBD浓度在20 μmol/L及以上时对 P.acnes有显著抑制作用。此外,抑菌率实验结果表明,CBD浓度为80 μmol/L时对 P.acnes的抑菌率高达99%,表明其具有良好的抑菌功效。 CCK-8 assay was performed to evaluate the effect of cannabinol （CBD） on the relative cell activity of HaCat cells and RAW264.7 cells. The inhibitory effect of CBD on the secretion of inflammatory cytokines in HaCat cells and RAW264.7 cells induced by LPS was investigated. The inhibitory effect of CBD on anaerobe Propionibacterium acnes（P.acnes） was tested by the means of inhibition ring and inhibition rate. The results show that when the concentration is lower than 20 μmol/L, CBD presents no cytotoxicity to normal/inflammatory HaCat cells and normal/inflammatory RAW264.7 cells, nor does it promote the proliferation and differentiation of the cells. CBD shows a good inhibitory effect on TNF-α in inflammatory RAW264.7 cell model, and its effect is equivalent to the positive control dexamethasone （DEX） at the concentration of 10 μmol/L. CBD shows significant inhibitory effect on IL-6 in both inflammatory cell models. At the concentration of 20 μmol/L, it presents significant inhibitory effect on IL-1β in both cell models; and presents significant inhibitory effect on IFN-γ in both cell models at the concentrations of 10 and 20 μmol/L, all indicating its good anti-inflammatory activity. The CBD emulsion was applied toP.acnes, and the results show that when the concentration of CBD is above 20 μmol/L, it shows significant inhibitory effect on P.acnes. In addition, the results of bacteriostatic rate test show that when the concentration of CBD is 80 μmol/L, its antibacterial rate against P.acnes is as high as 99%, indicating that it has a good antibacterial effect. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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敷面膜对消费者情绪放松的脑电波研究 The EEG study of facial mask act on consumers’ mental relaxation 周正,吴梦洁,王谊,林文强,郭苗,杨帆 2021 (7):  662-669.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.012 摘要 ( 399 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF(1691KB) ( 504 )   脑电波图（electroencephalography, EEG）是一种由脑神经细胞团在大脑皮层集体充放电而表现出来的宏观电生理现象,是人脑活动状态的最直观表现。人类的认知和感知可以通过EEG来传达。将EEG应用于观察敷面膜过程中的脑电波变化,从而研究敷面膜对消费者的心理影响。采集受试者敷面膜前1分钟的基线数据、敷上面膜后0~7 min的脑电数据以及摘下面膜后0~6 min的脑电数据。研究表明,敷面膜过程会激发低频的θ（4~8 Hz）节律,同时减少高频β（14~30 Hz）节律。受试者在相同条件下敷上不同款面膜后,被试者的放松指数较基线均有明显提升,这一结果与受试者的主观评价结果一致,说明敷面膜可以使受试者心理放松。通过EEG来阐述消费者在敷面膜过程中心理放松状态,从神经科学的角度阐释了化妆品对消费者的心理影响,对揭示化妆品和消费者之间的心理关联性具有重要意义。 Electroencephalography （EEG） is a macro-electrophysiological phenomenon manifested by the collective charging and discharging of brain nerve cell clusters in the cerebral cortex, and it is the most intuitional manifestation of human brain activity. The EEG test was used to understand the variation in brain activity during the application of the facial mask, thus to study the psychological impact of the facial mask applied on consumers. During the EEG data acquisition process, 1 min of EEG data for the subjects were recorded as baseline before being applied with a facial mask, and 0-7 min of EEG data were also recorded as test data after putting on the facial mask. The results indicate that applying facial mask can stimulate the low-frequencyθ rhythm （4-8 Hz） and slightly reduce the high-frequency β rhythm （14-30 Hz）. The subjects’ relaxation indexes are improved with different facial masks, which is consistent with the subjective evaluation results and heart rate measurement results of the subjects. It can be ascribed to the facial mask contributing to mental relaxation of consumers. This study shows the mental relaxation state of consumers during the facial mask application as revealed by EEG analysis, which has illustrated the psychological impact of cosmetics on consumers from the perspective of neuroscience. It is of important significance to reveal the psychological correlation of consumers with cosmetics. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

专论与综述

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凹凸棒石在Pickering乳液制备中的应用研究进展 Advances in the application of attapulgite in Pickering emulsion preparation 于惠,朱永峰,惠爱平,杨芳芳,王爱勤 2021 (7):  670-678.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.013 摘要 ( 349 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF(1278KB) ( 335 )   凹凸棒石因具有独特的一维纳米棒状形貌、纳米孔道结构、天然的负电性和良好的水分散性等特点,在Pickering乳液的制备和应用方面受到广泛关注。在介绍凹凸棒石结构特点和理化性质的基础上,综述了凹凸棒石在Pickering乳液制备中的应用研究进展,以期为凹凸棒石及其它黏土矿物稳定Pickering乳液的机理研究及应用拓展提供较全面信息。 Attapulgite, a clay mineral which possesses the unique one-dimensional nanorod morphology, nanopore structure, natural electronegativity as well as the good water dispersibility, and has attracted extensive attention in the preparation and application of Pickering emulsion. In a few cases, natural attapulgite can directly stabilize the emulsion with a higher aspect ratio or by introducing olive oil containing a large amount of unsaturated fatty acids. In other cases, the hydrophilic natural attapulgite must be modified with the purpose of adjusting its surface wettability in the preparation of stable Pickering emulsion. According to the action mode of modifier and attapulgite, the modification can be divided into non-covalent bond and covalent bond. Non-covalent bond modification was that the modifier acts on the surface of attapulgite through hydrogen bonding, van der Waals force and electrostatic interaction. According to the molecular size of the modifier, non-covalent bond modification can be divided into organic small molecule and organic polymer. Covalent bond modification was the formation of a covalent bond between the silanol group on the surface of the attapulgite and the modifier through chemical reaction. The emulsion stabilized by attapulgite has a wide range of applications, and can be used to fabricate microcapsules or microspheres with sustained drug release, as a template to fabricate porous materials with adsorption, or catalysis, etc. The structural characteristics and physicochemical properties of attapulgite have been introduced, and then the application research progress of attapulgite in the preparation of Pickering emulsion has been summarized. This review provided the useful information for the mechanism analysis and application extension of attapulgite and other clay mineral stabilized Pickering emulsions. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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市售护肤品防腐剂使用情况调查及未来发展趋势探究 Investigation on the use of preservatives in skin care products and exploration on the future development trend 程文静,张佳婵,杨依林,石秀芹,王昌涛,安全 2021 (7):  679-685.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.014 摘要 ( 384 )   HTML ( 26 )   PDF(1171KB) ( 491 )   护肤品防腐剂的使用在一定程度上保障了护肤品的稳定性和使用安全性,也增加了护肤品的有效使用期限。本研究调研了1 205种市售护肤品所用防腐剂的使用情况,对不同质地护肤品所用防腐剂种类进行了整理和归纳,分析了针对不同人群或不同产地的化妆品所用防腐剂的使用现状。调研结果发现：不同男女护肤品使用防腐剂排名前三的均为苯氧乙醇、羟苯甲酯、羟苯丙酯;不同区域的护肤品添加的防腐剂排名第一与第二的均为苯氧乙醇和羟苯甲酯,且各国或联盟使用苯氧乙醇的占比均在60%以上,可以看出目前苯氧乙醇已在世界护肤品领域中广泛使用。随着护肤品行业的发展,对防腐剂的要求也更加严格,本文基于市售护肤品防腐剂的调查统计,进一步综述了防腐剂的发展现状,预测了今后发展的趋势,本研究有着现实性的应用借鉴意义和经济价值。 The use of preservatives in skin care products can ensure the stability and safety of skin care products to a certain extent and increase the effective use period of skin care products. The preservatives used in 1 205 commercially available skin care products were investigated in this study. The types of preservatives used in skin care products of different textures were summarized. The current status of use of preservatives in skin care products for different population or from different origins was analyzed. According to the survey results, phenoxyethanol, methyl hydroxybenzoate and propyl hydroxybenzoate are considered the top three preservatives used in skin care products for different men and women; Phenoxyethanol and methyl hydroxybenzoate rank the first and the second among the preservatives added to skin care products in different regions. Moreover, phenoxyethanol as a skin care preservative accounts for more than 60% of the skin care preservatives in various countries or alliances. It can be seen that, phenoxyethanol has been widely used in skin care products across the world. With the development of the skin care industry, the requirements for preservatives have become more stringent. The development status of preservatives was further summarized and the future development trend was predicted in this article, based on the survey and statistics on the preservatives in commercially available skin care products. This study has significance of practical application and economic value. While skin care products bring users good skin care experience, they have become a breeding ground for microorganisms to grow because more nutrients have been added into the list of ingredients, especially when meeting with suitable conditions such as temperature, pH and moisture. Preservatives have been used to solve this problem. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

分析与检测

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高效液相色谱法测定祛痘类化妆品中4种禁用物质 Simultaneous determination of 4 banned substances in anti-acne cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography 张丽媛,吴鸳鸯,刘晨晨,戚绿叶 2021 (7):  686-690.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.015 摘要 ( 309 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF(1183KB) ( 253 )   建立了高效液相色谱法（HPLC）同时测定祛痘类化妆品中4种禁用物质（林可霉素、克林霉素、维甲酸、异维甲酸）的方法。样品经甲醇超声提取,以0.02 moL/L的磷酸氢二铵水溶液和甲醇为流动相进行梯度洗脱,采用Waters SunFire C18（4.6×250 mm,5 µm）色谱柱分离,流速1.0 mL/min,柱温30 ℃,采用二极管阵列检测器双波长（210和340 nm）检测,外标法定量。林可霉素、克林霉素的线性范围为5~500 mg/L,维甲酸、异维甲酸的线性范围为0.5~50 mg/L,相关系数均大于0.999。林可霉素、克林霉素的方法检出限为0.005%,维甲酸、异维甲酸的方法检出限为0.000 2%。平均回收率为95%~102%,相对标准偏差为0.1%~1.5%。该方法操作简便、准确度好、灵敏度高,适用于祛痘类化妆品中4种禁用物质的测定。 A method for simultaneous determination of 4 banned substances in anti-acne cosmetics, including lincomycin, clindamycin, tretinoin and isotretinoin was developed by high performance liquid chromatography （HPLC）. The above four substances were extracted ultrasonically with methanol. The analytes were separated on a Waters SunFire C18（4.6×250 mm,5 µm）column by gradient elution with 0.02 moL/L diammonium hydrogen phosphate- methanol as mobile phase,and detected at the wavelengths of 210 and 340 nm, respectively. The flow rate was set at 1.0 mL/min and the column temperature was 30 ℃. Quantification analysis was performed by the external standard method. The calibration curves are linear in the range of 5-500 mg/L for lincomycin and clindamycin, and 0.5-50 mg/L for the rest analytes, with the correlation coefficients more than 0.999. The detection limits of lincomycin and clindamycin are 0.005%, while that of tretinoin and isotretinoin are 0.000 2%. The average recoveries at three spiked levels range from 95% to 102% with RSDs of 0.1%-1.5%. The results indicate that the method is simple, sensitive and accurate, and is suitable for the determination of 4 banned substances in anti-acne cosmetics． 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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气相色谱法测定淋洗类化妆品中的硅氧烷类物质 Determination of methylcyclosiloxane in rinse-off cosmetics by gas chromatography 温晓静,唐璜,赵苑余,陈江,胡东平,王国民 2021 (7):  691-696.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.07.016 摘要 ( 559 )   HTML ( 29 )   PDF(1169KB) ( 405 )   建立了气相色谱法测定淋洗类化妆品中高关注硅氧烷类物质,包括八甲基环四硅氧烷（D4）、十甲基环五硅氧烷（D5）、十二甲基环六硅氧烷（D6）及类似物六甲基环三硅氧烷（D3）、十四甲基环七硅氧烷（D7）、十六甲基环八硅氧烷（D8）的检测方法。以正己烷为提取溶剂,经萃取、过滤后外标法定量。6种环状硅氧烷质量浓度与峰面积之间呈良好的线性关系（r >0.998）,检出限为0.002%,定量限为0.005%。不同样品基质分别加入6种环状硅氧烷的回收试验中,洗发水平均回收率为77.1%~104.2%,相对标准偏差0.5%~6.7%;护发素平均回收率为72.1%~106.9%,相对标准偏差0.3%~3.8%;剃须膏平均回收率为71.5%~112.6%,相对标准偏差0.9%~9.2%;沐浴乳平均回收率为73.3%~118.7%,相对标准偏差0.2%~7.7%;洁面乳平均回收率为74.8%~104.6%,相对标准偏差0.2%~4.8%。方法准确度好、操作简单,可用于淋洗类化妆品中硅氧烷类物质的测定。 A method of GC-FID was used for the analysis of D4, D5, D6 and their analogs D3, D7, D8 in cosmetics. The samples were extracted, filtered and analyzed by gas chromatography, and quantified by external standard method. The results show that there is a good linearity between the peak area and the concentration of six cyclic siloxane in the range of 5-200 mg/L with the r values higher than 0.998. The detection limits for six cyclic siloxane are 0.002%, and the limits of quantification are 0.005%. The average recoveries of six cyclic siloxane in shampoo,conditioner,shaving cream, bath gel and cleanser are 77.1%-104.2%, 72.1%-106.9%, 71.5%-112.6%, 73.3%-118.7%, and 74.8%-104.6%, respectively. The method is simple, efficient, sensitive and reliable, and is suitable for the general detection of six cyclic siloxane in various kinds of rinse-off cosmetics. It can provide technical support for the protection of the global environment and human health. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标