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    2021年, 第51卷, 第8期 刊出日期:2021-08-22 上一期    下一期
    基础研究
    临盘稠油木质素基自乳化驱油剂的研制及现场应用
    Development and application of lignin-based self-emulsification oil-displacing agent for Linpan heavy oil
    王在华,张军,冯嘉颖,刘牡丹,刘建国,陈涛
    2021 (8):  697-704.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.08.001
    摘要 ( 386 )   HTML ( 92 )   PDF(1620KB) ( 243 )  

    随着国际原油价格的下降,前期研制的石油基自乳化驱油剂(NB-5034A)因为成本问题,难以继续在实际生产中应用。针对这一问题,开展了低成本木质素基自乳化驱油剂的研究。首先针对临盘稠油特点,优化得到了合适的木质素基自乳化驱油剂配方(NB-50PA);然后通过物模实验,研究了驱油剂浓度、实验温度、驱替速度与方式、岩心性质和稠油黏度等因素对采收率的影响,评估了NB-50PA的使用条件。现场试验表明,NB-50PA可使临盘稠油的平均采收率提高24.51%,并且成本仅为前期研制的石油基自乳化驱油剂的1/3。

    With the decline of international crude oil price, the previous petroleum-based oil-displacing agent (NB-5034A) is difficult to be applied in oil field because of its high cost. To solve this problem, the low cost lignin-based self-emulsification oil-displacing agent was studied. First, according to the characteristics of Linpan heavy oil, the formula of lignin-based self-emulsification oil-displacing agent (NB-50PA) was optimized in the lab; then the effects of concentration, temperature, displacement velocity and mode, rock properties and oil viscosity on oil recovery were evaluated using simulation tests; the application conditions of NB-50PA for Linpan heavy oil were obtained. According to the field experiment, NB-50PA can increase the average recovery of Linpan heavy oil by 24.51%, and the cost is only 1/3 of the previous petroleum-based self-emulsification oil-displacing agent.

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    疏水改性壳聚糖的合成与乳化性能研究
    Synthesis and emulsification properties of hydrophobically modified chitosan
    孟新宇,柳欢,胡学一,夏咏梅
    2021 (8):  705-710.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.08.002
    摘要 ( 689 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF(2397KB) ( 598 )  

    壳聚糖(CS)不同的分子量和脱乙酰度赋予了其多样性,但强亲水性限制了其在食品、化妆品等领域的应用。因此,若通过疏水改性降低壳聚糖的强亲水性可扩展其作为乳化剂的应用。本文通过美拉德反应以酪蛋白疏水多肽(CHP)对不同分子量和脱乙酰度的壳聚糖进行疏水改性。以60 ℃,相对湿度75%,反应时间3天以及CHP和CS质量比1∶3为美拉德反应的较优条件。获得接枝度为3.10%~15.08%的系列接枝物,并通过红外和荧光光谱对接枝物进行结构分析。经酪蛋白疏水多肽改性得到的接枝物可以用于稳定乳状液的制备。对乳状液稳定性进行考察,以质量分数为1%的接枝物稳定50%橄榄油的O/W乳状液。壳聚糖稳定的乳状液在7天破乳,而接枝物可以为乳液液滴提供较大的静电排斥力,为乳状液提供了良好的长期储存稳定性,保持28天不破乳。

    As a natural polysaccharide, chitosan (CS) has excellent biocompatibility, biodegradability and renewability. Chitosan has different molecular weight and deacetylation degree. However, its strong hydrophilicity limits its application in food, cosmetics and other fields. Therefore, hydrophobic modification of chitosan can decrease the strong hydrophilicity and expand its application as emulsifier. That is, hydrophobic groups are introduced into its hydrophilic skeleton. However, the safety of chemical modifications needs to be considered. Maillard reaction does not use any chemical cross-linking agent, and the reaction process is simple and the products are biocompatible. As one of the main hydrophobic proteins, casein can be used to improve the amphiphilicity of polysaccharides. After enzymatic hydrolysis, casein hydrophobic peptides (CHP) can provide peptides with more hydrophobic groups. In this study, Maillard reaction was used to modify chitosan with CHP. The optimized conditions of Maillard reaction were temperature of 60 ℃, relative humidity of 75%, reaction time of three days, and the mass ratio of CHP to CS of 1∶3. The grafting degree was calculated through the content of free amino groups. The grafting degree for this series obtained was from 3.10% to 15.08%. In addition, the browning index increased as Maillard reaction was going on. Infrared spectroscopy and fluorescence spectroscopy were used for structural analysis. The vibration absorption peak of protein side chain changed after the reaction. The typical Schiff base was synthesized after Maillard reaction. Amadori product was formed after cyclization and rearrangement. The CHP-modified chitosan can stabilize emulsion. An O/W emulsion (50% olive oil in water) stabilized with 1% CHP-modified chitosan was prepared. The emulsion stabilized with CS breaks at the 7th day. In contrast, the emulsion stabilized with CHP-modified chitosan has large Zeta potential which provides large electrostatic repulsion between droplets, inhibiting demulsification, flocculation or coalescence of the emulsion. The particle size and particle size distribution of the emulsion have little change during the storage period. The emulsion has excellent long-term storage stability in 28 days.

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    科技讲座
    化妆品乳液及乳化新技术(Ⅳ)——油包油乳液的构建及其应用
    Cosmetic emulsions and new technologies of emulsification (Ⅳ) Construction and application of oil-in-oil emulsions
    丁晶晶,倪鑫炯,杨成,孙亚娟
    2021 (8):  711-718.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.08.003
    摘要 ( 1028 )   HTML ( 37 )   PDF(2167KB) ( 657 )  

    乳液是由两种或多种不混溶的液体组成,其中不连续的液滴分散在连续相中。典型的乳液体系就是油-水体系,它在食品、制药、组织工程和化妆品行业都有许多重要的应用。在过去的几十年里,油包油乳液由于其独特的不含水性质,引起了人们极大的兴趣。这些油包油乳液是对传统油-水乳液体系的一个补充,它使在乳液体系中使用与水不相容的化学物质成为了现实。而且,与油-水乳液体系类似,嵌段共聚物和固体颗粒也可用来稳定油包油乳液。文章首先介绍了油包油乳液的构建方法和形成机制,概述了油包油乳液稳定策略的最新进展,探索了油包油乳液在医药、聚合和化妆品领域的应用,最后对油包油乳液的未来发展方向进行了总结展望,为油包油乳液的构建及应用开发提供借鉴。

    An emulsion is a mixture of two or more immiscible liquids in which a discontinuous phase is dispersed into a continuous phase. A typical emulsion is oil-water system, which has many significant applications in various industries such as food, pharmaceutical, tissue engineering and cosmetic industries. In the past decades, oil-in-oil emulsions have attracted great interest due to their special non-aqueous property, which complements traditional oil-water emulsion systems, and realize the usage of chemicals that are incompatible with water. In addition, similar to oil-water systems, oil-in-oil emulsions can also be stabilized by block copolymers and solid particles. In this review, the construction and formation mechanism of oil-in-oil emulsions were introduced. Then, the recent advances in stabilizing strategies of oil-in-oil emulsions were summarized, and the applications of oil-in-oil emulsions in biomedicine, polymerization and cosmetics were discussed. Finally, the development direction of non-aqueous emulsions was prospected. This review provides a reference for the preparation and application of oil-in-oil emulsions.

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    开发与应用
    基于差异硫酸化率的脂肪醇醚硫酸盐制备
    Preparation of fatty alcohol ether sulfates with different sulfation degree
    李建波,李霁云,李萍,杨效益,郭朝华,任晓丹
    2021 (8):  719-724.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.08.004
    摘要 ( 337 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF(1464KB) ( 366 )  

    以常规脂肪醇醚(AEO)和三氧化硫为原料,在降膜式磺化器中进行硫酸化反应,得到了不同硫酸化程度的脂肪醇醚硫酸盐(AES)产品。经测定阴离子活性物、游离油及无机酸含量,结合游离油的羟值与气质分析确定了产品中的组分及其随硫酸化率的变化,并通过顶空气相法分析了不同硫酸化率下产品中二噁烷的含量变化。结果表明:低氧乙烯基团加合数的AEO倾向于优先发生硫酸化反应;十二醇及十二烷基AEO相比十四醇及十四烷基AEO更易发生硫酸化反应;控制差异硫酸化率,可以调整氧乙烯基团的平均加合数,调控AEO的氧乙烯基团分布,实现AEO的窄分布;二噁烷含量随着硫酸化率的升高而升高。

    The products of fatty alcohol ether sulfates (AES) with different sulfation degree were obtained by sulfation of fatty alcohol ethers (AEO) with sulfur trioxide in a falling film sulfonator. The components in the products and their changes with sulfation degree were determined by measuring the content of anionic active substance, AEO and inorganic acid, combined with the hydroxyl value of AEO and gas quality analysis. The content of 1,4-dioxane in the products with different sulfation degree was analyzed by headspace gas chromatography. The results show that the AEO with low addition number of oxyethylene group has the priority of sulfation. Dodecanol and dodecyl polyoxyethylene ether react with sulfur trioxide more easily than tetradecanol alcohol and tetradecyl polyoxyethylene ether. The average addition number of polyoxyethylene groups in AEO can be adjusted by controlling the different sulfation degree and thus the distribution of oxyethylene groups in AEO can also be further regulated and narrowed. The content of 1,4-dioxane increases with the increase of sulfation degree.

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    不同反离子双癸基季铵盐对聚四氟乙烯表面的吸附行为
    Adsorption behaviors of didecyl quaternary ammonium salts with different counterions on polytetrafluoroethylene surface
    智丽飞,石秀芳,张二壮,李晓明,王慧,潘瑞丽
    2021 (8):  725-733.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.08.005
    摘要 ( 271 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(2062KB) ( 248 )  

    利用座滴法研究了系列反离子双癸基季铵盐和Gemini型季铵盐表面活性剂对超疏水材料聚四氟乙烯(PTFE)表面的吸附行为。考察了表面活性剂的表面活性、类型和浓度对接触角的影响规律,并探讨了铺展系数、黏附张力和黏附功的变化规律。研究表明:双癸基季铵盐表面活性剂在PTFE表面的接触角随着反离子基团的增大呈现先减小后增大的趋势,其中反离子最大的双癸基二甲基戊酸铵(DDAV)在PTFE表面的润湿效果最好;铺展系数(S)随着反离子有机酸基团的增大呈现先减小后增大的趋势;当表面活性剂的质量浓度低于cmc时,粘附力和表面张力之间呈现出良好的线性关系;当质量浓度大于cmc时,反离子基团小的表面活性剂溶液在固-液界面和气-液界面形成了饱和吸附层。反离子基团较大的表面活性剂在气-液界面达到饱和吸附,但在固-液界面上没有达到饱和,随着浓度的增加继续吸附,润湿性能增强。

    The sessile drop method was used to study the adsorption behaviors of a series of didecyl quaternary ammonium salts with different counterions and a Gemini quaternary ammonium salt on the surface of superhydrophobic material polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). The effects of the surface activity, type and concentration of surfactants on the contact angle were investigated, and the changes of spreading coefficient, adhesion tension and adhesion work were discussed. The results show that the contact angle of didecyl quaternary ammonium salts on the surface of PTFE shows a trend of first decreasing and then increasing with the increase of size of counterions. Among them, didecyldimethylammonium valerate (DDAV) which has the largest counterion shows the best wetting on the surface of PTFE; the spreading coefficient (S) is decreased first and then increased with the increase of counterion size; when the concentration of the surfactant is lower than cmc, there is a good linear relationship between adhesion and surface tension; when the concentration is larger than the cmc, the solution of the surfactant with small counterion forms a saturated adsorption layer at the solid-liquid interface and the gas-liquid interface. Surfactants with larger counterions reach saturation adsorption at the gas-liquid interface, but do not reach saturation at the solid-liquid interface. Their adsorption continues and the wetting performance is enhanced with the increase of concentration. Therefore, the influences of a series of didecyl quaternary ammonium salts on the surface of PTFE were obtained, and the adsorption model was established, which provided a theoretical basis for further understanding of the adsorption of such surfactants on the surface of hydrophobic materials, and facilitated the application of such surfactants.

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    碳酸类护肤品的功效评测
    Efficacy evaluation of carbonated skin care products
    白鑫,陈雨桐,尚亚卓
    2021 (8):  734-740.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.08.006
    摘要 ( 1200 )   HTML ( 24 )   PDF(2669KB) ( 520 )  

    二氧化碳是一种人体可产生的气体,无毒、无害,且对人体的生理功能具有重要作用,利用二氧化碳改善身体健康目前已有广泛的应用。含有二氧化碳或在使用过程中能够产生二氧化碳的碳酸类护肤品已成为目前护肤品行业关注的热点产品之一。产品中存在的或使用时产生的二氧化碳能进入皮肤,引起波尔效应,进而达到护肤的目的。使用VISIA-CR皮肤检测仪和MoistureMeterSC皮肤表面水含量测量仪详细研究了碳酸类护肤品对血液循环、毛孔、护肤品吸收的影响,并对碳酸类护肤品对皮肤的深层清洁作用进行了探讨。结果显示,碳酸类护肤品可暂时性改善皮肤局部微循环,促进毛孔扩张,进而为后续护肤产品中功效成分的吸收提供条件。同时,碳酸类护肤品导致的短暂性的毛孔扩张有利于黑头排出体外,达到皮肤深层清洁的目的。碳酸类护肤品有望通过加速皮肤血液循环、促进功效成分吸收、有效清除皮肤深层的垃圾和废物,从根本上解决基本皮肤问题。

    Carbon dioxide is a kind of gas that can be produced by the human body. It is non-toxic and harmless, and plays an important role in the physiological function of the human body. Carbon dioxide has been widely used to improve physical health in recent years. Carbonated skin care products are a kind of skin care products containing carbon dioxide or producing carbon dioxide during the process of use, and they have become one of the hot products in the skin care industry. Carbon dioxide present in the products or produced in use of the products can enter the skin and cause the Bohr effect and thus achieve the purpose of skin care. In the market of skin care products, the safety and efficacy of carbonated skin care products are gradually recognized and accepted by domestic consumers. However, most consumers know little about their working mechanism. In this paper, a commercially available carbonated skin care product was studied to explore the conditioning effects on women’s skin. The VISIA-CR skin detector and the Moisture Meter SC were used to study the effects of the carbonated skin care product on blood circulation, pores and absorption. The deep cleansing effect of carbonated skin care products was also discussed. The results show that carbonated skin care products can improve the local skin microcirculation and promote pore expansion, which provides conditions for the subsequent absorption of effective ingredients in the skin care products. Moreover, the pore expansion caused by carbonated skin care products is conducive to removing blackhead and deep skin cleansing. However, the improvement of local blood circulation and the pore expansion are temporary, that is, blood circulation will gradually weaken with time and finally return to normal level, and the pore size will gradually recover and even pore contraction phenomenon appears. Carbonated skin care products are expected to fundamentally solve basic skin problems by accelerating skin blood circulation, promoting the absorption of effective ingredients and effectively removing deep waste in the skin.

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    姜黄素乳液的工艺优化及其抗炎活性研究
    Process optimization and anti-inflammatory activity of the curcumin emulsion
    刘冠廷,胡流云,马诗经,韩萍,林丽,杜志云
    2021 (8):  741-747.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.08.007
    摘要 ( 459 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF(1548KB) ( 335 )  

    以姜黄素为原料,通过高压均质工艺获得姜黄素乳液。以乳液粒径为评价指标,优化工艺参数,并测定姜黄素乳液在光照、温度条件下的稳定性,进一步测试姜黄素乳液对体外脂多糖LPS诱导细胞模型及体内TPA诱导动物模型的抗炎活性及其对炎症因子表达的调控作用。结果表明,姜黄素乳液高压均质工艺条件为60 MPa、35 ℃、均质处理1 h,循环6次,所制备的姜黄素乳液粒径为(200±50) nm,姜黄素含量为5%,姜黄素乳液及其化妆品配方在光照、60 ℃条件下稳定性良好;姜黄素乳液浓度为1~50 μg/mL对LPS诱导的产生的NO有显著的抑制作用,涂抹剂量为0.4 mg/ear的姜黄素乳液对TPA诱导的小鼠耳肿胀抑制率达57%以上,其可能是通过抑制炎症反应过程中的关键性细胞因子IL-6、TNF-α的分泌和释放从而发挥抗炎作用。

    An emulsion containing curcumin was obtained by high pressure homogenization. According to the particle size of the emulsion, the technological parameters for preparation were optimized. The stability of the curcumin emulsion under light and at high temperature was determined. Further, the curcumin emulsion was used to control the anti-inflammatory activities in lipopolysaccharide LPS induced cell model in vitro and TPA induced animal model, as well as its regulating effect on inflammatory factors. The results show that the optimized condition of high pressure homogenization for preparing the curcumin emulsion is being homogenized at 60 MPa for 1 h at 35 ℃, and repeated for 6 cycles. The particle size of the curcumin emulsion thus prepared is (200±50) nm and the curcumin content is 5%. The curcumin emulsion and the cosmetic formulas thereof have good stability under light and at 60 ℃. The curcumin emulsion has a significant inhibitory effect on NO induced by LPS when the concentration of the curcumin emulsion is 1-50 μg/mL, and the inhibition rate of the curcumin emulsion with 0.4 mg/ear against TPA induced ear edema in mice is larger than 57%. The mechanism may be through inhibiting the secretion of key cytokines IL-6 and TNF-α in the inflammatory reaction, thus exerting anti-inflammatory effect.

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    口红持久度评价体系的建立
    Research on the establishment of lipstick persistence evaluation system
    岑晓娟,王颖,周荷益,刘唯一,周琳,盘瑶
    2021 (8):  748-753.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.08.008
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    口红属于彩妆产品,与功效性产品的不同之处在于其既要带来美的感受又要追求妆容的即时效果。目前鲜有关于口红持妆力测试的论文,本研究旨在建立综合客观的口红持久度评价指标和分级图谱。对涂抹口红的志愿者进行人为干扰处理模拟口红脱妆过程,采集志愿者唇部图像并对口红颜色变化进行数据分析后建立数学模型,对口红持妆给予客观的量化判定,同时建立分级图谱。结果发现,在口红图像数据的客观化评价中,口红的颜色和颜色的均匀度是计算持妆指数的主要影响因素,所建立的口红持妆分级图谱将口红的持妆程度分为6个等级,一级为持妆率100%的状态,随着级别升高持妆率降低。建立了直观、量化的图谱和模型用于判定口红的持妆程度,为彩妆感官评价方法学的发展提供了全新的思路和数据支持。

    As a color cosmetic product, lipstick not only brings beauty, but also pursues the instant effect of makeup. Currently, there are few papers on lipstick makeup retention test. The aim of the study was to establish a comprehensive and objective evaluation index and grading map of lipstick durability. Firstly, the volunteers who applied lipstick were subjected to artificial interference processing to simulate the lipstick take-off process and the lip image of the volunteers were captured by VISIA-CR. Then Image Pro Plus (IPP) software was used to analyze the front face photos taken by VISIA-CR under natural light, and SPSS 22.0 statistical software was applied to perform correlation analysis and factor analysis between indicators. Finally a mathematical model was established to objectively determine the lipstick color persistence and to establish a grading map. The results show that in the objective evaluation of lipstick image data, the color and uniformity of the lipstick are the main factors influencing the calculation of makeup retention index. The established lipstick retention grading map divides the durability of lipstick into 6 levels. The retention rate of level 1, level 3 and level 6 are 100%, 89% and 15%, respectively. And the makeup retention rate decreases as the level increases. The research results can provide technical support for the determination of lipstick makeup retention. It can also be used for market development and consumer market research. The atlas gives an objective and quantitative judgment on lipstick rentention ability. The subjective judgment of the level of lipstick makeup removal will be affected by the surrounding environment and personal subjective consciousness. The model can be applied to judge the level of lipstick makeup removal by collecting relevant index data. In the future, it is interesting to explore other color lipstick models, such as orange, brown, pink, etc. This experimental method has laid a solid foundation for the experimental research and data analysis of lipstick.

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    驴乳延缓皮肤衰老的研究
    Study on the effects of donkey milk in delaying skin aging
    刘春媛,樊雨梅,何婕,周广运,苏宁,廖峰
    2021 (8):  754-760.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.08.009
    摘要 ( 351 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF(2866KB) ( 332 )  

    使用驴乳溶液处理正常人原代真皮成纤维细胞(HDFn细胞)和人永生化表皮细胞(HaCaT细胞),检测了驴乳对细胞活性、细胞增殖、损伤修复的影响。研究了驴乳溶液处理HDFn细胞后细胞外基质(胶原蛋白、基质金属蛋白酶)含量的影响。质量浓度为0.63~10 mg/mL驴乳作用于HDFn细胞和HaCaT细胞,细胞安全无毒性。通过BrdU法检测不同质量浓度的驴乳对HDFn细胞和HaCaT细胞的增殖能力,5、10 mg/mL驴乳具有显著的促进细胞增殖的作用(p<0.01)。与阴性对照相比,5、10 mg/mL驴乳可促进HDFn细胞中ColⅠ合成(p<0.01),抑制MMP-1分泌。5、10 mg/mL 驴乳作用HDFn细胞24 h后,与阴性对照相比,细胞愈合率显著提高(p<0.01)。驴乳可促进细胞增殖、增加胶原蛋白含量、抑制MMP-1分泌、促进损伤修复,发挥延缓皮肤衰老的作用,为其在护肤品中的应用提供科学依据。

    The anti-aging effect of donkey milk on skin was evaluated. More and more attention has been paid to donkey milk in recent years since its nutrition composition shows higher similarity to human milk than others. Donkey milk has not only high nutritional value but also a wide range of medicinal value. Herein, the measurement of cell activity, cell proliferation, extracellular matrix (collagen, matrix metalloproteinase) content and invitro wound healing by the scratch assay were used. Donkey milk was found to be safe and nontoxic up to the concentration of 0.63- 10 mg/mL. Bromodeoxyuridine (BrdU) assay data showed the proliferation of HDFn cells and HaCaT cells after 48 h, and it was found that when the concentration of donkey milk was 5 and 10 mg/mL, the proliferation of cells was increased significantly (p<0.01). The collagen in extracellular matrix was increased by 38% at 10 mg/mL donkey milk compared to the control group (p<0.01). The content of MMP-1 secreted by HDFn cells induced by UVB was significantly reduced after treated with 5 and 10 mg/mL donkey milk. In addition, wound healing assay exhibited significant wound closure and cell migration compared to the control group after HDFn cells being treated with donkey milk for 24 h. In conclusion, donkey milk can promote cell proliferation, increase collagen content, inhibit MMP-1 secretion, promote damage repair, and thereby delay skin aging. It provides a necessary scientific basis for the application of donkey milk in functional cosmetics; however, the roles and specific molecular mechanism in delaying skin aging need to be further explored.

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    黑枸杞发酵液的抗衰老功效与安全性探究
    Research on the anti-aging effect and safety of fermented Lycium ruthenicum broth
    赵丹,王昌涛,李萌,张佳婵,王冬冬
    2021 (8):  761-767.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.08.010
    摘要 ( 752 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF(1621KB) ( 384 )  

    使用酿酒酵母对黑枸杞进行发酵,获得黑枸杞发酵液。从成分、安全性、抗衰老效果三个方面对其进行检测和评价,为其在化妆品领域的应用提供基础。首先从生化水平对黑枸杞发酵液清除自由基能力进行检测,接着从细胞水平评估黑枸杞发酵液对人成纤维细胞内的胶原蛋白、胶原蛋白酶以及抗氧化酶活性的影响进行检测,最后使用鸡胚尿囊膜和人体斑贴试验对黑枸杞发酵液的眼刺激性和皮肤安全性进行评价。结果表明,黑枸杞发酵液富含多糖和蛋白质,多酚、黄酮和原花青素含量较少。黑枸杞发酵液具有良好的清除DPPH自由基和ABTS+自由基的能力,IC50分别为8.15%和1.08%。此外,5%体积分数的黑枸杞发酵液能够促进胶原蛋白合成,含量为对照组的137.84% (p<0.01),同时能够抑制胶原蛋白酶的表达,含量为对照组的70.41% (p<0.01)。1%体积分数的黑枸杞发酵液能够极显著提升成纤维细胞内抗氧化酶活性(p<0.01),提高总抗氧化能力以及抑制活性氧的生成(p<0.01)。鸡胚尿囊膜试验和人体斑贴试验结果显示黑枸杞发酵液具有较高的眼睛安全性和皮肤安全性。

    Saccharomyces cerevisiae was used to ferment Lycium ruthenicum to obtain fermented Lycium ruthenicum broth (FLRB). The components of FLRB were detected and the safety and the anti-aging effect were evaluated. These results would provide theoretical basis for its application in the field of cosmetics. Firstly, the free radical scavenging ability of FLRB was tested at the biochemical level, and then the anti-aging effects were evaluated at cellular level, including collagen formation, expression of collagenase, and activities of antioxidant enzymes in human fibroblasts. Finally, the eye irritation and skin safety of the FLRB were tested by chick embryo chorioallantoic membrane and human patch experiments. Results show that the FLRB is rich in polysaccharides and proteins, and is less in flavonoids, polyphenols and proanthocyanidins. The FLRB has significant ability to scavenge DPPH free radicals and ABTS+free radicals, with IC50 values of 8.15% and 1.08%, respectively. The FLRB of 5% volume fraction can promote collagen production to a content being 137.84% (p<0.01) of the control group and can inhibit collagenase production to a content being 70.41% (p<0.01) of the control group. The activities of GSH-Px and CAT and the total antioxidant capacity are significantly (p<0.01) improved and reactive oxygen species is significantly (p<0.01) inhibited by the FLRB of 1% volume fraction. Chick embryo chorioallantoic membrane experiment and human patch test show that the FLRB is safe to human eyes and skin.

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    化妆品中硝基甲烷的风险评估和使用监管探索
    Study on risk assessment and use regulation of nitromethane in cosmetics
    秦美蓉,冼静雯,吴熙,张高飞,邬晓鸥,王平,王晓炜
    2021 (8):  768-774.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.08.011
    摘要 ( 369 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF(1033KB) ( 439 )  

    世界卫生组织国际癌症研究中心将硝基甲烷归为2B类致癌物,各国相关机构及组织对其进行了安全评估,并对其使用进行了限制。文章根据目前的毒理研究结果对硝基甲烷开展风险评估,并对比分析各国法规中关于硝基甲烷使用的规定,对化妆品中硝基甲烷的使用安全进行风险评估,为其监管要求提出建议。结果发现化妆品中硝基甲烷含量限值为0.3%(w/w)时MoE<1,致癌性风险应予以关注。由于目前在中国境内销售的化妆品中尚未查询到标识含有硝基甲烷的产品,境外个别品种含有硝基甲烷也并非作为化妆品原料添加,建议将硝基甲烷列入化妆品禁用物质名单。

    Nitromethane has been classified by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC, 2000) as a Group 2B carcinogen. There is sufficient evidence in experimental animals for the carcinogenicity of nitromethane. Relevant institutions and organizations have evaluated its safety and restricted its use all over the world. In the European Union and Malaysia, nitromethane is allowed in cosmetic products at a maximum concentration of 0.3%, and South Korea bans the use of nitromethane in cosmetics. In addition, China, United States and Japan all regulate the residue limit of nitromethane in drugs. Our key laboratory assessed the safety of its use in cosmetics, and aimed to provide advice and suggestion for cosmetics supervision. Via dermal absorption and inhalation are the main routes of exposure to nitromethane from products. Based on the current toxicological research data, we conducted the risk assessment of nitromethane in various cosmetic products such as mascara, eyeliner, body lotion and hair spray, and made comparative analysis of use regulations in various countries. The results show that the MoE value of nitromethane is less than 1 when the limit of it in cosmetics is 0.3%(w/w), so the carcinogenic risk of nitromethane should be concerned. Due to no cosmetics sold in China have been identified containing nitromethane at present, and individual cosmetic products containing nitromethane overseas are not added as cosmetic raw materials. It is recommended to include nitromethane in the list of prohibited substances in cosmetics.

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    专论与综述
    植物源黄酮抑菌作用研究进展
    Research progress on antibacterial activity of bioactive flavonoids
    梁海运,马泽盟,孙瑞良,宋丽雅
    2021 (8):  775-781.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.08.012
    摘要 ( 594 )   HTML ( 29 )   PDF(1055KB) ( 426 )  

    黄酮类化合物广泛分布于自然界中的水果、蔬菜和中药材内,其中部分黄酮具有抗菌活性,是天然抑菌剂开发的热点。本文综述了植物源黄酮的分类和广谱抑菌性;通过比较不同结构对黄酮抑菌性的影响,总结了不同亚类植物源黄酮的抑菌构效关系;又从细胞整体形态、能量代谢及抑制生物大分子合成方面对植物源黄酮的抑菌机理做出了总结;最后分析了植物源黄酮在食品防腐、化妆品及医药行业的应用前景,旨在为植物源黄酮抑菌剂的开发提供理论参照。

    Flavonoids are widely distributed in nature, from fruits and vegetables to Chinese materia medica, Most of them have been found to have antibacterial activity, so they are the hot spot in the development of safe and natural preservatives. Plant derived flavonoids exist mostly in the form of glycosides and a few are in the form of free aglycones. As a kind of complex components, the antibacterial properties of plant flavonoids are closely related to the structure, classification and extraction methods of flavonoids. In this review, classification and antibacterial activity of bioactive flavonoids in plants was firstly summarized. Then the antibacterial structure-activity relationship trend of bioactive flavonoids was found by comparing the influence of different structure on the antimicrobial activity of flavonoids. Moreover, the antibacterial mechanisms of flavonoids were elucidated from the whole morphology, normal energy metabolism and inhibition of macromolecular synthesis. Finally, the application of bioactive flavonoids in plants as potential preservative in food, cosmetic and medicine were generalized. The main purpose of this review is to provide theoretical reference for flavonoids as antimicrobial agents.

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    皮肤致敏测试整合策略的现状与展望
    Current situation and prospect of integrated strategies for skin sensitization testing
    孙方卉,宋肖洁,霍刚
    2021 (8):  782-788.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.08.013
    摘要 ( 422 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF(1208KB) ( 326 )  

    近年来,化妆品接触性皮炎、化妆品痤疮等化妆品皮肤病发病率呈明显上升趋势,日益严峻的化妆品的安全问题引起了社会的广泛关注。因此,国家陆续出台了一系列法律法规进一步规范化妆品的安全性问题,企业也必须对化妆品原料及成品进行充分的安全性评价和风险物质评估。皮肤致敏性检测是化妆品安全评价的毒理学终点之一。由于欧盟已全面禁止化妆品成分动物实验和禁止销售经过动物实验的化妆品原料及成品,因此,传统的动物实验尽管能满足皮肤致敏性测试要求,但不符合3R原则,所以替代实验逐渐取代动物实验成为化妆品安全性评价的重要工具。目前,通过OECD认证的单一致敏替代实验主要包括直接肽链反应检测实验、KeratinoSensTM实验、人细胞系活化实验等等。但单一的致敏替代实验通常不足以准确判断化合物的致敏性。因此,常将不同的单一实验结果根据AOP通路组合成整合策略,综合判定化合物的皮肤致敏性,从而提高预测准确性。目前,现有的整合策略主要由巴斯夫、欧莱雅、资生堂等几大日化企业自主开发,包括3选2原则、stacking- meta模型、ANN-EC3模型等。由于中国对动物替代实验方法引入较晚,国内日化企业及机构尚未开发自有的整合模型,但我们正在努力开发新型的皮肤致敏替代技术,例如在基因实时表达报告细胞构建、新QSAR计算机系统开发及THP-1/KC共培养系统构建等方向均已取得了较好成果。文章就日化相关企业目前使用的皮肤致敏测试的整合策略方法进行概括与阐述,并总结了中国自主开发的皮肤致敏替代方法的发展现状。

    In recent years, the incidence of cosmetic skin diseases such as cosmetic contact dermatitis and cosmetic acne has been increasing significantly, and the increasingly severe safety issues of cosmetics have aroused widespread concern in the society. Therefore, the state has promulgated a series of laws and regulations to further regulate the safety of cosmetics, and the enterprises must also carry out sufficient safety evaluation and risk substance evaluation on cosmetics raw materials and finished products. Skin sensitization is one of the toxicological end points of cosmetic safety evaluation. Although traditional animal experiments can meet the requirements of skin sensitization testing, they do not comply with the 3R principle. The European Union has imposed a total ban on animal testing of cosmetic ingredients and on the sale of cosmetic ingredients and finished products tested on animals. Therefore, alternative methods have gradually replaced animal experiments as an important tool for cosmetic safety evaluation. At present, the alternative methods that have certified by OECD mainly include direct peptide reaction test, KeratinoSensTM test, human cell line activation test and so on. However, a single substitution test is usually insufficient to accurately determine the skin sensitization of a compound. Therefore, different single experimental results are often combined according to the AOP pathway into an integrated strategy to comprehensively determine the skin sensitization of compounds, so as to improve the prediction accuracy. At present, the existing integrated strategies are mainly developed by BASF, L ’Oreal, Shiseido and other industries, including the ‘2 out of 3’ principle, stacking Meta model, ANN-EC3 model, etc. Due to the late introduction of animal alternative methods in China, domestic cosmetic companies and institutions have not yet developed their own integrated models, but we are working hard to develop new skin sensitization alternative technologies, such as the construction of real-time gene expression reporter cells, the development of new QSAR computer system and the construction of THP-1/KC co-culture system. Good results have been achieved in these new technologies. This paper summarizes and expounds the integrated strategies and methods of skin sensitization test currently used by daily chemical related enterprises, and summarizes the development status of self-developed skin sensitization alternative methods in China.

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    分析与检测
    高效液相色谱-串联质谱法快速测定养发类化妆品中抗菌药物
    Rapid determination of antimicrobial agents in hair care cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry
    何笑薇
    2021 (8):  789-794.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.08.014
    摘要 ( 246 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF(1188KB) ( 247 )  

    为了测定养发类化妆品中是否存在激素类和胺类禁用抗菌药物,提出了基于高效液相色谱-串联质谱的养发类化妆品中抗菌药物测定方法。以施华蔻专业修护亮泽活发护理霜为研究对象,使用甲醇作为抗菌药物测定的提取溶液,通过十八烷基硅烷键合硅胶色谱柱,在多反应检测模式下测定养发类化妆品中抗菌药物。结果表明,在施华蔻专业修护亮泽活发护理霜中,10种激素类禁用抗菌药物和3种胺类禁用抗菌药物的检出限均低于定量限,不存在激素类禁用抗菌药物和胺类禁用抗菌药物。激素类抗菌药物的加标回收率和精密度分别为84.7%~114.7%、1.8%~9.8%,胺类禁用抗菌药物的加标回收率和精密度分别为84.1%~93.9%、1.4%~5.7%。分离时长均小于2 min,测定时长均小于4 min,其抗菌药物的测定效率可满足测定需求。

    In order to determine the hormone- and amine-type forbidden antibacterial drugs in hair-care cosmetics, a high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry-based method for was proposed. Taking Schwarzkopf professional repairing and brightening hair care cream as the research object, using methanol as the extraction solution, the antibacterial drugs in hair care cosmetics were determined by octadecylsilane-bonded silica gel chromatographic column in multi-reaction detection mode. The results show that when 0.02 mol/L ammonium formate aqueous solution is used as the flow phase, the superimposed total ion current separation effect of hormone-type forbidden antibacterial drugs in hair care cosmetics is the best. The isotope abundance ratio is the highest. When the extraction solvent is methanol, the recovery rates of A-1 to A-10 hormone-type and B-1, B-2, and B-3 amine-type forbidden antibacterial drugs are the highest, which are greater than 90% and 95%, respectively. For this reason, this article uses methanol as the sample extraction solution for the determination of 10 hormone-type forbidden antibacterial drugs. The results show that in Schwarzkopf Professional Repairing and Brightening Hair Care Cream, the detection limits of 10 hormone-type forbidden antibacterial drugs and 3 amine-type forbidden antibacterial drugs are all lower than the quantitative limit. The recovery and precision of hormone-type forbidden antibacterial drugs are 84.7%-114.7% and 1.8%-9.8%, respectively. The recovery and precision of amine-type forbidden antibacterial drugs are 84.1%-93.9% and 1.4%-5.7%, respectively. The separation time is less than 2 min and the determination time is less than 4 min. In Schwarzkopf Professional Repairing and Brightening Hair Care Cream, there are no hormone-type forbidden antibacterial drugs and amine-type forbidden antibacterial drugs, and the measurement efficiency of antibacterial drugs can meet the measurement requirements.

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    固相萃取-高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中15种卡因类禁用组分
    Determination of 15 caine-type prohibited ingredients in cosmetics by solid phase extraction-high performance liquid chromatography
    芦丽,方方,冯有龙,曹玲
    2021 (8):  795-801.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.08.015
    摘要 ( 222 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF(1200KB) ( 225 )  

    建立了不同基质化妆品中15种卡因类局麻药物含量测定的固相萃取-高效液相色谱分析方法。不同基质样品经不同溶剂提取,MCX固相萃取净化,经C18色谱柱(250 mm×4.6 mm×5 μm)分离,流动相采用甲醇-0.01 moL/L磷酸氢二钠水溶液(磷酸调pH 7.0)梯度洗脱,流速1.0 mL/min,检测波长230 nm,柱温30 ℃,标准曲线法定量。结果表明,15种卡因类局麻药物在相应质量浓度范围内线性关系良好,相关系数均大于0.999;检出限为1~13 mg/kg,定量限为3~29 mg/kg。液态水基凝胶类、膏霜乳液类、液态油基类3种不同基质在低、高两个水平的平均加样回收率分别为90.9%~108.0%,87.5%~104.5%和87.7%~105.0%,相对标准偏差RSD分别为0.1%~3.6%,1.1%~8.8%和0.5%~6.0%。该方法高效、准确、耐用,为化妆品中卡因类局麻药物定量筛查提供了一种有效的分析方法。

    A solid phase extraction- high performance liquid chromatographic(HPLC) method was developed for the simultaneous determination of 15 caine-type prohibited ingredients in cosmetics. The samples were extracted by different solvent, then purified by solid phase extraction. Chromatographic separation was achieved on an C18 chromatographic column (250 mm×4.6 mm×5 μm). The column temperature was 30 ℃ through gradient elution with methanol-aqueous solution of 0.01 moL/L Na2HPO4 (pH 7.0) as binary mobile phase at a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min, and the detection wavelength was 230 nm. The standard curve method was used for quantification. The results show that the linear correlation coefficients of the 15 compounds are all greater than 0.999. The LODs of 15 caine-type prohibited ingredients are in the range of 1-13 mg/kg, while the LOQs are in the range of 3-29 mg/kg. The average recoveries at two spiked levels of astringent, milk and oil matrix are in the range of 90.9%-108.0%, 87.5%-104.5% and 87.7%-105.0% respectively, with RSDs of 0.1%-3.6%, 1.1%-8.8% and 0.5%-6.0% respectively. This method is proved to be efficient, accurate and durable, which provids an effective detection technique for 15 caine-type prohibited ingredients in cosmetics

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    液质联用法测定化妆品中16种抗感染类药物
    Determination of 16 kinds of anti-infective drugs in cosmetics by LC-MS/MS
    沙丽娜,杨光勇,穆晓娟,张明玥
    2021 (8):  802-808.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.08.016
    摘要 ( 362 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF(1126KB) ( 419 )  

    建立了采用液质联用法(liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry, LC-MS/MS)检测化妆品中氟康唑等16种抗感染类药物的方法。结果表明,酮康唑线性范围为0.50~25 μg/g,其余15种线性范围为0.10~5.0 μg/g,相关系数r均大于0.99;精密度试验RSD均小于1.8%;酮康唑检出质量浓度为25 ng/mL,其余15种组分检出质量浓度均小于10 ng/mL;回收率试验结果在86.0%~112.4%范围之内。说明本方法具有良好的线性、精密度和回收率,适用于化妆品中氟康唑等16种抗感染类药物的检测。本方法结合国标方法,增加了8种组分的检测,加强了化妆品的监管力度,降低了化妆品的安全风险。

    A method based on liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) was established for the determination of 16 kinds of anti-infective drugs in cosmetics. The linear range of ketoconazole is 0.50-25 μg/g, and the linear range of the other 15 components is between 0.10-5.0 μg/g. The correlation coefficients are all greater than 0.99, and the RSD of precision test is less than 1.8%. The detection mass concentration of ketoconazole is 25 ng/mL, and the detection mass concentrations of the other 15 components are less than 10 ng/mL. The recoveries are in the range of 86.0%-112.4%. The method has good linearity, precision and recovery. It is suitable for the detection of 16 kinds of anti-infective drugs in cosmetics. Combined with the national standard method, this method adds the detection of 8 components, strengthens the supervision of cosmetics and reduces the safety risk of cosmetics.

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