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    2021年, 第51卷, 第9期 刊出日期:2021-09-22 上一期    下一期
    基础研究
    桃仁分离蛋白颗粒的制备及其乳化性能研究
    Study on the preparation and emulsifying properties of peach seed protein isolate nanoparticles
    沈永强,孙亚娟,杨成,王靖
    2021 (9):  809-816.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.09.001
    摘要 ( 285 )   HTML ( 115 )   PDF(2438KB) ( 275 )  

    使用碱溶酸沉法对桃仁分离蛋白(PSPI)进行提取,然后采用pH循环法制备PSPI纳米颗粒,并以蛋白颗粒为乳化剂制备乳液,发现该颗粒具有优异的稳定Pickering乳液的能力。颗粒的大小为300 nm左右,并随着pH的变化而发生不同程度的聚集。通过调节溶液的pH可以改变PSPI的润湿性,并且整个体系在pH=2.0和8.0时表现出接近中性的润湿性。流变性表明乳液是假塑性流体,具有类凝胶性质。在这些pH下乳液具有优异的离心稳定性和储存稳定性,可以形成油相体积分数为80%甚至87%的高内相乳液。而且,该高内相乳液对离子浓度有很高的抗性,可以在盐浓度为1 mol/L的条件下稳定存放一个月。这些结果表明,桃仁分离蛋白颗粒是一个绿色且性质优越的乳化剂,在食品、化妆品以及石油工业中具有潜在应用。

    Peach seed protein isolate (PSPI) was prepared by alkali extraction with isoelectric precipitation. The composition of the PSPI was determined, and the protein content was approximately 91.2%. When the pH is below the isoelectric point, the particles are positively charged, and conversely, when the pH is above the isoelectric point, the particles are negatively charged. PSPI nanoparticles were prepared by pH-cycling method, and they exhibited excellent stabilization for Pickering emulsions. The size of the particles is around 300 nm, and they aggregate to different degrees with the change of pH. The wettability of PSPI nanoparticles could be adjusted simply by changing the pH of solutions, and the system shows a neutral wettability at pH 2.0 and 8.0. However, when the pH value is 5.0, the particles have strong hydrophobicity. The rheological properties indicate that the emulsion is pseudoplastic fluid with gelatinous properties. At pH 2.0 and 8.0, the emulsions have outstanding stability, and moreover, stable high internal phase Pickering emulsions (HIPPEs) with internal oil phase fraction of 80% and even 87% were obtained. In addition, such HIPPEs have good resistance to ionic strength, which can remain stable at high salt concentration up to 1 mol/L for over 1 month. These findings show that PSPI nanoparticles are green and excellent emulsifier, which have potential applications in food, cosmetic, and petroleum industries.

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    科技讲座
    化妆品植物原料(V)——抗氧化活性的植物原料的研究与开发
    Botanical cosmetic ingredients (V)Research and development of plant antioxidants
    任倩倩,孙旭,吴华,金建明
    2021 (9):  817-824.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.09.002
    摘要 ( 685 )   HTML ( 84 )   PDF(1241KB) ( 689 )  

    生物氧化是机体在新陈代谢过程中物质氧化产生能量的一系列氧化还原反应。皮肤细胞通过代谢或在外界侵袭下不断产生高活性的自由基和ROS。过度产生的这些高活性分子可影响细胞结构发生改变,导致细胞过早死亡,引发皮肤问题。而抗氧化剂有助于提高机体的抗氧化能力,消除自由基和ROS的有害影响。本文综述了自由基和ROS、氧化应激、氧化损伤及其引起的皮肤病和抗氧化的机理。主要介绍具有抗氧化活性的植物提取物,包括酚类、酚酸类、黄酮类、二苯乙烯类、原花青素、类胡萝卜素和维生素等。其中,酚类化合物占主导地位;大多数多酚以共轭结构形式存在,具有很好的抗氧化活性。这些天然抗氧化剂的结构特点是存在酚羟基或不饱和共轭双键。抗氧化剂的抗氧化活性越好,则越容易被还原,其结构也越不稳定。同时兼具水溶性和脂溶性特性的羟基酪醇拥有很强的抗氧化能力,而脂溶性成分虾青素和水溶性成分维生素C等也具有很好的抗氧化活性。同时对一些植物成分的抗氧化机制进行了阐述,希望为植物提取物更好地应用到相关化妆品提供借鉴。

    Biological oxidation is an energy-producing reaction in the metabolism of living organisms. Under cellular metabolism or extracellular stress, the skin cells continuously produce highly active free radicals and reactive oxygen species. Over-producing these highly active molecules causes cell structure changes, leading to early apoptosis and skin problems. Antioxidants help to improve the antioxidant capacity of the organisms and eliminate the harmful effects of free radicals and reactive oxygen species. Herein, free radicals and reactive oxygen species, oxidative stress, oxidative damage and the skin diseases caused by them, as well as the mechanisms of antioxidant action, have been reviewed. The plant extracts with antioxidant activity have been mainly introduced, including phenols, phenolic acids, flavonoids, stilbenes, procyanidin, carotenoids and vitamins. Among them, phenolic compounds are most important. Most polyphenols exist in conjugated forms and exhibit excellent antioxidant activity. The common structural feature of these natural antioxidants is the presence of phenolic hydroxyl groups or conjugated double bonds. For an antioxidant, the better the antioxidant effect it has, the easier it is to be reduced. The hydroxytyrosol, which is both water- and fat-soluble, has strong antioxidant capacity. The fat-soluble astaxanthin and water-soluble vitamin C also show good antioxidant activity. The antioxidation mechanisms of some plant ingredients have been described to provide reference for the application of plant extracts as antioxidants in cosmetics.

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    开发与应用
    N,N-二甲基-9-癸烯酰胺与十二烷基硫酸钠复配协同效应研究
    Synergistic effect of N, N-dimethyl-9-decenamide and sodium dodecyl sulfate
    许德锟,方银军,刘雪锋
    2021 (9):  825-831.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.09.003
    摘要 ( 393 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF(1478KB) ( 298 )  

    为了改善绿色非离子表面活性剂N,N-二甲基-9-癸烯酰胺(NADA)水溶性较差的缺陷,将NADA与阴离子表面活性剂十二烷基硫酸钠(SDS)复配并考察了NADA和SDS二者之间的协同效应。结果表明:NADA与SDS复配后二者之间产生正协同效应,可以有效地改善NADA在水中的溶解性,当SDS的摩尔分数xS>0.05时,NADA-SDS复配体系水溶液(其中NADA的质量分数为1%)在25 ℃时呈澄清透明。NADA-SDS混合胶束可以明显地提高NADA-SDS降低表面张力的效率,当NADA的摩尔分数xN=0.5时,临界胶束浓度(cmc,以NADA-SDS总浓度计)具有最小值(约为4.04 mmol/L),且混合胶束的临界胶束聚集数([Nm])具有最大值(约为76);与SDS相比,NADA与SDS复配可以将水的表面张力降至更低,在xN=0.9时,cmc处对应表面张力(γcmc)具有最小值(约为28.44 mN/m)。

    In order to address the defect of poor water solubility of the non-ionic surfactant N, N-dimethyl-9-decenamide (NADA), the possible synergistic effect between NADA and anionic surfactant sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) was investigated in the binary systems of NADA-SDS. The results show that positive synergistic effects are observed by blending NADA and SDS, leading to an obvious increasing in water solubility of NADA. At 25 ℃, the aqueous solutions of NADA-SDS (where the mass fraction of NADA is 1%) are transparent when the mole fraction of SDS (xS) > 0.05. The efficiency of reducing surface tension is significantly improved by the formation of NADA-SDS hybrid micelles. The minimum critical micelle concentration (cmc, in terms of the total concentration of NADA-SDS) and the maximum critical micelle aggregation number ([Nm]) are obtained at the mole fraction of NADA (xN) = 0.5 as 4.04 mmol/L and 76, respectively. The effectiveness of reducing surface tension of NADA-SDS is remarkably enhanced by the forming of NADA-SDS hybrid adsorption layer. The minimum surface tension at cmc (γcmc) of 28.44 mN/m is achieved at xN = 0.9.

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    加拿大稠油油田油溶性降黏剂的制备及性能评价
    Preparation and performance evaluation of oil soluble viscosity reducer for heavy oil fields in Canada
    肖洒,孙玉豹,王少华,吴春洲,舒展
    2021 (9):  832-838.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.09.004
    摘要 ( 288 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF(1403KB) ( 1872 )  

    加拿大M油田油藏温度低,油藏埋深浅,原油黏度高,含水少,流动性差,针对M油田稠油特性,研制了油溶性降黏剂PH-OV。实验研究表明:油溶性降黏剂PH-OV的较优组成为4%酯化改性聚醚+15%二乙二醇二丁醚+81%芳烃类溶剂油,PH-OV质量分数达到3%时,对M油田稠油降黏率可达到85.2%;加量达到5%以上时,在14~80 ℃内的降黏率均可达到80%以上。随着原油含水率的增高,降黏率随之增大,60%含水率时降黏率达到98.5%。该降黏剂可有效降低原油屈服值,对原油降黏性能稳定可达168 h以上,辅助冷水驱油效率可达到30.03%,相比水驱冷采提升了12.86%。油溶性降黏剂PH-OV可适用于M油田稠油冷采,具备有效实施提高采收率的潜力。

    M oilfield in Canada is characterized by low temperature, shallow buried depth, high viscosity of crude oil, less water cut and poor fluidity. Due to the high content of resin and asphaltene, it is very difficult to recover the crude oil by conventional mining method. It is necessary to reduce the viscosity of the crude oil from M oilfield in Canada. Oil soluble viscosity reduction technology has stable viscosity reduction effect on heavy oil and saves the steps of produced fluid demulsification and dehydration. In recent years, the research on oil soluble viscosity reducer at home and abroad has developed rapidly. Due to the great differences in the composition and characteristics of heavy oil in different regions, the adaptability to oil soluble viscosity reducer is different. According to the characteristics of heavy oil in M oilfield, an oil soluble viscosity reducer PH-OV was developed. The results show that the optimum composition of PH-OV is 4% esterified polyether +15% diethylene glycol dibutyl ether +81% aromatic solvent oil. When the dosage of PH-OV is 3%, the viscosity reduction rate can reach 85.2%; when the dosage of PH-OV is more than 5%, the viscosity reduction rate can reach more than 80% within 14-80 ℃. The SEM chart show that the viscosity reducer PH-OV can effectively destroy the aggregation structure of crude oil, disperse resin and asphaltene, inhibit the formation of macromolecular aggregates and reduce viscosity. With the increase of water content of crude oil, the viscosity reduction rate increases. When the water content is 60%, the viscosity reduction rate reaches 98.5%. The viscosity reducer can effectively reduce the yield value of crude oil, and the viscosity reduction performance of crude oil can be stable for more than 168 h. With the increase of viscosity reducer, the yield value of crude oil decreases significantly, which can effectively reduce the initial starting pressure of crude oil. The efficiency of PH-OV assisting cold water flooding can reach 30.03%, which is 12.86% higher than that of cold water flooding. The oil soluble viscosity reducer PH-OV is suitable for cold recovery of heavy oil in M oilfield, and has the potential to effectively enhance oil recovery.

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    以晶硅切割废液回收聚乙二醇制备的月桂酸聚乙二醇酯性能研究
    Study on the properties of lauric acid polyglycol ester prepared by regenerating polyethylene glycol from waste crystal-silicon-cutting liquid
    王泽云,陈海兰,孙鸿,王杰
    2021 (9):  839-843.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.09.005
    摘要 ( 222 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF(988KB) ( 330 )  

    以晶硅切割废液回收聚乙二醇和月桂酸反应合成了月桂酸聚乙二醇酯(LAE-R),研究了其表面张力(γcmc)、临界胶束浓度(cmc)、润湿力、乳化力、泡沫性能、去污力和在餐具洗涤剂中的去油率等性能,并与脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚(AEO-9)、工业级PEG400和月桂酸合成的月桂酸聚乙二醇酯(LAE-I)性能进行了对比。结果表明,LAE-R具有较高的表面活性,γcmc为28.9 mN/m,cmc为60.4 mg/L,低于LAE-I和AEO-9;对柴油和大豆油的乳化力与AEO-9相当,略低于LAE-I;润湿力和发泡力低于LAE-I和AEO-9,属低泡型表面活性剂;对炭黑、皮脂两种污布的综合去污力与LAE-I相当,对炭黑污布的去污力低于AEO-9;在餐具洗涤剂配方中的去油率与LAE-I和AEO-9基本一致,因原料成本低,在性价比方面具有一定的竞争优势。

    Lauric acid polyglycol ester (LAE-R) was synthesized by the reaction of lauric acid with the polyethylene glycol recycled from waste crystal-silicon-cutting liquid. The surface tension (γcmc), critical micelle concentration (cmc), wetting power, emulsifying power, foaming performance and detergency were measured, as well as the degreasing rate in a dishwashing detergent. These properties were compared with those of AEO-9 and lauric acid polyglycol ester (LAE-I) which had been synthesized from industrial-grade PEG400 and lauric acid. The results show that LAE-R has high surface activity (γcmc is 28.9 mN/m and cmc is 60.4 mg/L, which are lower than those of LAE-I and AEO-9). The emulsifying power of LAE-R on diesel oil and soybean oil is similar to that of AEO-9, but slightly lower than that of LAE-I. The wetting power and foaming power of LAE-R are lower than those of LAE-I and AEO-9. Therefore, LAE-R is a low-foam surfactant. LAE-R has the same comprehensive cleaning ability to carbon black cloth and sebum cloth as LAE-I, but its cleaning ability to carbon black cloth is lower than that of AEO-9. The degreasing rate of LAE-R is basically the same as those of LAE-I and AEO-9 during applied in a dishwashing detergent formula, however, LAE-R has a certain competitive advantage in cost performance due to its low raw material cost.

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    机械力化学法降解十二烷基苯磺酸钠
    Degradation of sodium dodecyl benzene sulfonate by mechanochemical method
    赵青青,陈洪龄
    2021 (9):  844-851.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.09.006
    摘要 ( 252 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF(1708KB) ( 205 )  

    考察了La2O3和磁性可回收的Fe3O4对十二烷基苯磺酸钠(SDBS)的降解性能。结果表明,在物料中外源添加剂和SDBS质量比为19:1,球料比为40:1,球磨转速为500 r/min,球磨4 h后,La2O3和Fe3O4对单纯SDBS的降解率分别为93.89%和85.56%。La2O3和Fe3O4对土壤中SDBS的降解率分别为75.35%和34.88%。通过紫外光谱和红外光谱分析,发现苯环结构被破坏和-SO3-被氧化,均说明球磨处理后SDBS被降解。

    Sodium dodecyl benzene sulfonate (SDBS) is a widely used anionic surfactant in many industrial fields such as printing, washing, textile and building materials. The use of SDBS generates a lot of bubbles to reduce the oxygenation in water, which causes some negative effects and requires degradation treatment. Mechanochemical method is environmentally friendly and efficient for treatment of organic pollutants, which is widely used in soil remediation. At present, the ball milling method is mainly applied to the degradation of halogenated organics. The research on the treatment of surfactants has rarely been reported. In this work, the degradation properties of SDBS which was ball milled with La2O3 and magnetic recyclable Fe3O4 were investigated. Then the degradation of SDBS by the same method was explored in the soil. The chemical structure and properties of SDBS and the degradation products thereof were characterized by FTIR, UV-vis and LC-MS to find out the best experimental parameters. The results show that the best degradation rates of La2O3 and Fe3O4 to SDBS are 93.89% and 85.56%, respectively. The best experimental parameters are as follows: the mass ratio of additives to SDBS is 19:1, the mass ratio of ball to material is 40:1, the ball grinding speed is 500 r/min, and the ball grinding time is 4 h. When the additive is La2O3, 100% Φ 5 mm ball milling beads are used, and when the additive is Fe3O4, 20% Φ 10 mm, 60% Φ 5 mm and 20% Φ 2 mm ball milling beads are used. In the soil, the degradation rates of SDBS by La2O3 and Fe3O4 are 75.35% and 34.88%, respectively. Through UV and IR analysis, it is found that the benzene ring structure is destroyed and -SO3- is oxidized, both indicating that SDBS has been degraded by ball milling treatment. LC-MS analysis shows that the molecular ion peaks of SDBS become weaker and many ion peaks of small organic molecules appear after ball milling, which also demonstrates that SDBS has been degraded by ball milling.

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    双重响应性纳米凝胶的制备及其结构色调控
    Preparation and tunable structural color of dual-responsive nanogels
    丁涵雪,李雪婷,鲁希华
    2021 (9):  852-858.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.09.007
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    通过酰氯化反应成功合成了一种新型的弱酸性单体L-N-丙烯酰基苯丙氨酸(APhe),采用乳液沉淀共聚的方法将此单体与温敏性单体N-异丙基丙烯酰胺(NIPA)进行共聚,合成了共聚纳米凝胶P (NIPA-co-APhe)。利用红外光谱仪、TEM对制备样品的结构、形貌进行了测试表征,表征结果显示纳米凝胶呈球状并具有良好的单分散性,使用粒度分析仪对纳米凝胶进行分析,发现纳米凝胶具有良好的温敏性及pH敏感性。使用光纤光谱仪对其结构色进行了表征,发现可以通过调节单体配比、pH值来调节纳米凝胶的结构色。进一步发现,新型P (NIPA-co-APhe)纳米凝胶发生相变后,依然能保持亮丽的结构色。

    A weakly acidic monomer L-N-acryloyl phenylalanine (APhe) was synthesized. Poly(NIPA-co-APhe) copolymer nanogels were synthesized by emulsion precipitation copolymerization of the monomer Aphe with the thermosensitive monomer N-isopropylacrylamide (NIPA). The structure and morphology of the nanogels prepared were characterized by IR and TEM, respectively. The results show that the particles of nanogels are spherical and monodispersed. The nanogels were also analyzed by particle size analyzer. It is found that the nanogels have good temperature/pH sensitivities. That is, the particle size is gradually decreased with the increase of temperature, and the particle size is first increased and then decreased with the increase of pH. The structural color was characterized by optical fiber spectrometer. It is found that the structural color of the nanogels can be adjusted by varying the monomer ratio and pH value. That is, the particle size is gradually increased with the increase of molar fraction of monomer APhe, and the color is gradually changed from green to blue as the compression degree of the particles is increased. Furthermore, it is important to observe that the Poly(NIPA-co-APhe) nanogels even keep the structural color in the case of undergoing a temperature-induced phase transition.

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    一款含鲜奶面霜对面部皮肤细菌多样性的影响研究
    Study on the effect of a fresh milk cream on facial skin bacterial diversity
    马雪,羡志明,董强,郑超,盘瑶,赵华
    2021 (9):  859-864.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.09.008
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    利用高通量测序技术研究使用一款含鲜奶面霜后对皮肤细菌多样性的影响。通过随机抽取10名使用含鲜奶面霜的受试者(女性,平均年龄24.1±0.9岁)并用棉拭子采集面颊皮肤样本,提取DNA及PCR扩增后,进行16S rRNA高通量测序,并根据97%的相似度对序列进行OTU聚类和物种分类注释,分析比较使用样品前后皮肤细菌群落组成、多样性和差异菌群。研究发现使用含鲜奶面霜后脸颊皮肤细菌的多样性降低,但受试者面颊皮肤的细菌种类及相对丰度较为相似,同时受试者皮肤菌群中的厚壁菌门和放线菌门比例明显升高,这主要是由厚壁菌门中的葡萄球菌属和放线菌门中的丙酸杆菌属比例升高导致的。结果表明此款含鲜奶面霜对皮肤菌群微生态发挥一定的调节作用,且具有滋润保湿的效果,可以作为日常护肤中的保湿产品使用。

    As the body’s largest organ, skin is the home of billions of microbes and helps protect the host from the external pathogens. The skin microbial barrier can be affected by endogenous factors (skin location, age, gender, and race) and exogenous factors (environment, antibiotics, and cosmetics). Cosmetics contain complex ingredients, such as preservatives, fragrances, emulsifiers, moisturizers, etc. These substances may affect the skin’s microenvironment. The purpose of this study is to investigate the effects of a cream containing fresh milk on the bacterial diversity of facial skin using high-throughput sequencing technology. A total of 10 subjects were enrolled and they were all females with the average age of 24.1 years old. The subjects used a cream containing fresh milk for 28 days, and the cheek skin microbiological specimens were collected by cotton swabs before and 28 days after the use of the fresh milk cream. DNA was extracted and amplified by PCR, and 16S rRNA high-throughput sequencing was carried out. OTU clustering and species classification annotation were performed to analyze and compare the bacterial community composition, diversity and differences of the facial skin before and after using the fresh milk cream. It is found that after using the fresh milk cream, the alpha diversity parameters including Chao1 and Shannon diversity index of the cheek skin decrease, and the distribution of the samples becomes more concentrated. The species composition at phylum level after using the cream is the same as the baseline, indicating that the use of this cream has little impact on the skin microbial health. However, the proportion of Firmicutes and Actinomycetes in the skin flora of the subjects after using the cream significantly increase, which is mainly caused by the increase of the proportion of Staphylococcus and Propionibacterium, respectively. The Staphylococcus resides in the skin area that is rich in moisture, whereas Propionibacterium plants in the area with abundant sebum content. Additionally, no skin adverse reactions are observed among the subjects, showing that the fresh milk cream is generally well tolerated. Taken this, the study reveals that the fresh milk-containing cream plays an important role in regulating the microecology of the facial skin, and has a prominent moisturizing and nourishing efficacy.

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    多重乳液-海藻酸钙水凝胶球的制备及对不同极性营养元素的传递
    Multiple emulsions in calcium alginate microgels as a delivery system for the encapsulation of different polar nutrients: Preparation and in vitro characterization
    黄娟,蒋萍福,解文静,陈健初,施建强,扈晓佳
    2021 (9):  865-873.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.09.009
    摘要 ( 299 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF(1579KB) ( 372 )  

    β-胡萝卜素和维生素C为不同极性营养元素的模型,针对营养元素稳定性差、生物利用度低的问题,采用多重乳液-海藻酸钙水凝胶球提高其稳定性和生物利用度。采用改良的两步乳化法和注射-离子交联法制备多重乳液-海藻酸钙水凝胶球,制备的多重乳液平均粒径在6~7 μm之间,水凝胶球平均粒径在1 000 μm左右,且水凝胶球中营养元素的包封率高于多重乳液。对多重乳液和水凝胶球进行了稳定性、体外溶出和体外模拟消化表征。结果表明水凝胶球对pH和钠离子的耐受范围更宽,将多重乳液包裹于水凝胶球中可以提高营养元素的化学稳定性。水凝胶球包裹后,多重乳液中营养元素的溶出及脂肪的消化变得更加缓慢。海藻酸钠浓度越高,营养元素的溶出及脂肪的消化越缓慢。脂肪结晶会阻碍多重乳液中脂肪的消化降解,水凝胶球中营养元素的生物可给率低于多重乳液。研究表明水凝胶球二次包裹可以提高不同极性营养元素的化学稳定性,控制营养元素的释放,提高生物利用度。

    In this study, β-carotene and vitamin C were used as models of different polar nutrients. Regarding the poor stability and low bio-availability of nutrients, multiple emulsions in calcium alginate microgels were prepared to improve the stability and bio-availability of nutrients. Multiple emulsions in calcium alginate microgels were prepared by the improved two-step emulsification and the injection-gelation method. The average particle size of multiple emulsions and microgels are approximately 6-7 μm and 1 000 μm, respectively, and the encapsulation efficiency of the nutrients is higher in microgels than in multiple emulsions. The prepared calcium alginate microgels are spherical orange-red particles. The optical microscope displays that the multiple emulsions have multi-layer structure. There are small droplets of oleogel inside the droplets of the multiple emulsion. The multiple emulsion can be clearly observed on the edge of the calcium alginate microgels. The stability, in vitro dissolution and in vitro digestion were further characterized. The results show that microgels have wider tolerance to pH and sodium ions. In addition, at low pH value, the average particle size of calcium alginate microgels is smaller, showing shrinkage behavior; at high pH value, the average particle size of calcium alginate microgels is larger, showing swelling behavior. The chemical stability of β-carotene and vitamin C can be enhanced by being encapsulated in the multiple emulsions in calcium alginate microgels. After being encapsulated in the multiple emulsions in microgels, the dissolution of β-carotene and vitamin C and the digestion of fatty acids become slower. The higher the concentration of sodium alginate, the slower the dissolution of the nutrients and the digestion of fatty acids. Fat crystallization can hinder the digestion or degradation of fatty acids in multiple emulsions. The in vitro dissolution results show that the behavior of calcium alginate microgels is also influenced by pH, i.e., the dissolution of β-carotene and vitamin C is slower at the pH simulated as gastric acid and is faster at the pH simulated as intestinal conditions. The bio-availability of nutrients is lower in microgels than in multiple emulsions. This study reveals that the second encapsulation by microgels can improve the chemical stability and bio-availability of different polar nutrients and control their release.

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    人真皮成纤维细胞受长波紫外线辐照引起基因表达动态变化
    Dynamic changes of gene expression induced by long-wave ultraviolet radiation in human dermal fibroblasts
    殷庆飞,陈田
    2021 (9):  874-880.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.09.010
    摘要 ( 427 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF(1808KB) ( 253 )  

    通过不同累积剂量(1~7天)长波紫外线UVA辐照人原代真皮成纤维细胞,研究其细胞外基质、细胞周期及衰老相关基因动态变化情况。结果显示,胶原蛋白基因COL1A2、COL4A1在辐照1天时表达上调,辐照3天后下降;而弹性蛋白基因ELN在辐照1天时表达不变,辐照3天后下降;基质金属蛋白酶基因MMP1、MMP9在辐照5天时表达显著上调。UVA辐照3天和5天后,细胞阻滞于S期和G2/M期。细胞周期相关基因CDKN2A基因表达下调,TP53基因表达先上调后下调;CDKN1A基因表达上调,且在UVA辐照3天时上调幅度最大。衰老相关基因SIRT1、HDAC1与对照组相比,表现出先上调后下降,再上升的动态变化情况。结果表明UVA照射引发的细胞衰老变化是一个程序性调控的过程,成纤维细胞不同类型基因在UVA辐照下表现出差异的动态变化趋势,UVA辐照诱导细胞衰老模型应用于化妆品抗衰老功效研究时,应根据具体需求选择合适的生物学标志物。

    The dynamic changes of extracellular matrix, cell cycle and senescence-related genes at mRNA level in human primary dermal fibroblasts were studied by irradiated with different cumulative doses of ultraviolet UVA (1-7 days). The results show that the expression of the collagen genes COL1A2 and COL4A1 is up-regulated at day 1 and decreases at day 3, while the mRNA level of the elastin gene ELN remains unchanged at day 1 and decreases at day 3. The expression of the matrix metalloproteinase genes MMP1 and MMP9 increases significantly at day 5 after UVA irradiation. Further studies show that the cell cycle is arrested in S phase and G2/M phase after 3 and 5 days after UVA irradiation. The expression of cell cycle related gene CDKN2A is down-regulated, and that of TP53 gene is up-regulated at first and then down-regulated. CDKN1A gene is up-regulated, and reaches the highest level at day 3 after UVA irradiation. Compared with the control group, the expression of aging-related genes SIRT1 and HDAC1 is up-regulated at first, then decreases, and increases again. The results show that the changes of cell senescence induced by UVA irradiation is a programmed regulation process, and different groups of genes in fibroblasts show diverse trends of dynamic changes under UVA irradiation. The suitable biomarkers should be selected according to the specific aims in the application of cell senescence model for researching anti-aging effect of cosmetics.

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    专论与综述
    口腔溃疡相关因子的研究进展
    Research progress of related factors in oral ulcers
    车飙,高艳,肖蕾,黄金莲
    2021 (9):  881-889.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.09.011
    摘要 ( 484 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF(1375KB) ( 316 )  

    从口腔溃疡的信号传导和相关因子的角度对近期文献进行综述,为研究和治疗口腔溃疡提供理论参考。口腔溃疡的致病机制涉及诸多诱导因素和信号通路。外界的信号因子、机体的免疫因子、细胞表面的受体分子、细胞内的信号传递等众多因素,以及它们相关信号通路在口腔粘膜中的变化,在口腔溃疡的发展和愈合过程中发挥着不同的作用。本文从TGF-β、Smad7、FOXO1、TNF-α、IL-17、NO和ROS、JNK,以及靶向治疗药物和免疫检查点抑制剂等角度,对目前在口腔溃疡的致病及修复机制中相关因子和信号通路的研究进展进行了综述。它们之间的相互影响说明需要在炎症反应和组织修复之间达到平衡才能促进口腔溃疡愈合,例如ROS/NO经由PGE2加重炎症反应,还可经由JNK/TGF-β途径促进细胞增殖和迁移以进行修复;TNF-α除了促进T细胞产生各种炎症因子,还经由JNK/c-Jun途径促进胶原和MMPs合成以帮助组织修复;Smad7和IL-17则参与抑制炎症反应和促进细胞分泌抗菌物质。因而平衡免疫系统可能是未来口腔溃疡药物的研究方向。

    The recent literature has been reviewed from the signal transduction and related factors of oral ulcers to provide theoretical reference for the research and treatment thereof. The pathogenic mechanism of oral ulcers is complex, involving immune abnormalities, trauma, excessive fatigue, hormone changes, vitamin deficiency, genetic factors, etc. Common manifestations include oral candidiasis, recurrent aphthous ulcers, or cancer patients with radiation or drug treatment, which have resulted in mucosal ulcers that greatly affect the life quality of patients. The pathogenic mechanism of oral ulcers involves many inducing factors and signal pathways. The composition and content of factors, such as external signal factors, immune factors of the body, receptor molecules on the cell surface, and intracellular signal transmission, as well as the changes in their related signal pathways, have played different roles in the development and healing process of oral ulcers. In this review, NF-κB and TNF-α have been discussed a lot. This review combines recent reports in the literature, from the aspects of TGF-β, Smad7, FOXO1, TNF-α, IL-17, NO and ROS, JNK, targeted therapy drugs, immune checkpoint inhibitors, etc. Thus the current research progress of related factors and signal pathways in causes and repair mechanisms of oral ulcers has been reviewed. IL-6, IL-8, COX-2, TLRs, Dectine-1, p38 MAPK, etc. are interspersed in relevant introductions. By analyzing the possible connections between them, it is found that a balance between inflammation and tissue repair is needed to promote oral ulcer healing. For example, ROS/NO aggravates inflammation through PGE2, but it promotes cell proliferation and migration through JNK/TGF-β pathway for repair. TNF-α promotes the production of various inflammatory factors by T cells, and yet it promotes the synthesis of collagen and MMPs through the JNK/c-Jun pathway to help tissue repair. Smad7 and IL-17 are involved in inhibiting inflammation and promoting cell secretion of antibacterial substances. Targeted therapies or immune checkpoint inhibitors that act on a single target mostly cause oral inflammation in patients to varying degrees. Therefore, balancing the immune system may be the future direction of research for oral ulcer drugs.

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    美白功效评价现状及发展趋势
    Status and new development tendency of cosmetics whiteningefficacy evaluation
    薛婉婷,李丽,董银卯,郭苗苗
    2021 (9):  890-896.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.09.012
    摘要 ( 613 )   HTML ( 34 )   PDF(887KB) ( 589 )  

    近年来随着化妆品市场的迅速发展及东方女性对“美白”的热爱,使美白类化妆品成为消费者和化妆品企业关注的焦点。科技的发展和2020年《化妆品监督管理条例》的发布,使功效评价成为化妆品研发、上市中的关键环节之一。基于黑色素合成及转运机制,总结美白功效评价方法及发展趋势。着重介绍了3D皮肤模型、多光子成像技术等前沿技术的原理及特点和一些在原有美白功效评价模型或方法上的改良。

    With the rapid development of the cosmetics market and the deep affection from Oriental women for “whitening”, whitening cosmetics have become the focus of consumers and cosmetics companies. With the development of science and technology and the release of the “Regulations on Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics” in 2020, efficacy evaluation has become one of the key links in the research and development and marketing of cosmetics. Melanocytes produce melanin, which is transfered from the dendrites of melanocytes to keratinocytes, and finally follows the movement of epidermal cells to the stratum corneum to form color spots or to affect the skin color. Based on the mechanism of melanin synthesis and transportation, the evaluation methods of whitening efficacy were summarized and its development trend was put forward. The evaluation methods of whitening efficacy can be divided into physicochemical method, biochemical method, cell biology method and in vivo experiment. The principle and characteristics of 3D skin model, multiphoton imaging technology and other cutting-edge technologies are emphatically introduced, as well as some improvements in the original whitening efficacy evaluation model or method. In general, the evaluation methods of whitening efficacy will develop towards the combination of biotechnology, computer technology, high-tech instruments and skin physiology that are not easily affected by individual differences in the future, and will develop from single to multiple methods guided by mechanism. In addition, cosmetic producers should also improve their own technology and innovate more products. In the future, more and more excellent technologies and models are also needed to be applied to the whitening efficacy evaluation, so as to create a good development environment for the whole industry.

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    植物提取物防脱生发机制研究进展
    Research progress on anti-hair loss mechanisms of plant extracts
    王强,尚佳伟,陆优,陆荣柱
    2021 (9):  897-902.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.09.013
    摘要 ( 629 )   HTML ( 40 )   PDF(1079KB) ( 573 )  

    脱发是一种常见的皮肤性疾病,随着人们生活节奏的加快,脱发现象变得越来越严重,给人们的精神、心理健康产生了极大的影响。毛囊是控制毛发生长的皮肤附属器官,对药物、激素等体外因素十分敏感,而植物提取物可以延长毛囊生长期,阻止毛囊从生长期进入退行期,促进毛囊从休止期到生长期的转变,促进毛发生长。文章综合分析近年来国内外关于植物提取物在生发育发应用中的研究成果,概述植物提取物对毛囊细胞不同信号通路的调控机制,以期为植物提取物生发育发的机制研究和临床脱发治疗药物开发提供理论依据。

    Hair loss is a common disease, which is becoming more and more serious. It may cause emotional and psychological distress to patients, although it is not life-threatening. To date, the number of patients suffering from hair loss or alopecia has increased dramatically. Although two hair loss drugs, finasteride and minoxidil, have been approved by the Food and Drug Administration, their efficacy is limited and transient, due to low efficacy and undesirable side effects, such as pruritis, dryness, scaling, local irritation and dermatitis. Therefore, development of new products for alopecia treatment is one of the most attractive opportunities for the cosmetic industry. Many patients have attempted to find therapeutic herbs or compounds that function as safer and more potent treatments for alopecia. Hair follicle is the skin accessory organ that controls hair growth, and it is very sensitive to drugs, hormones and other factors. The hair growth cycle consists of three phases: anagen (growth phase), catagen (regression phase), and telogen (resting phase). Dysregulation of the hair growth cycle has been shown to be associated with the pathogenesis of alopecia. Herbs or plant extracts can help prolong the anagen phase of hair follicle, prevent the progression from the anagen phase to the catagen phase, or promote the change from the telogen phrase to the anagen phase. Several traditional herbal medicines have been widely used for treating alopecia or preventing hair loss, with minimal or no side effects or toxicities. Hair growth was genetically regulated by many proteins and factors, such as insulin-like growth factor-1 (IGF-1), β-catenin, keratinocyte growth factor (KGF), hepatocyte growth factor (HGF), sonic hedgehog (Shh), transformation growth factor-β (TGF-β), vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), and 5α-reductase. This review elucidated the mechanisms of herbs or plant extracts that are relevant to hair loss, in order to provide theoretical basis for preventing and treating hair loss.

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    分析与检测
    高效液相色谱荧光法测定化妆品中的10种荧光着色剂
    Determination of 10 fluorescent colorants in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography with fluorescence detection
    袁剑辉,蒋清清,龙培,马明,周宏斌,肖道清
    2021 (9):  903-909.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.09.014
    摘要 ( 365 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF(1597KB) ( 315 )  

    建立了一种同时测定化妆品中10种荧光着色剂(荧光素、荧光素钠、二溴荧光素、二碘荧光素、二碘荧光素二钠、四溴荧光素、四溴荧光素二钠、四溴四氯荧光素、四氯四溴荧光素二钠、罗丹明B)的高效液相色谱-荧光检测方法,并用该方法对眉笔、口红、眼影、腮红等30多个产品进行了检测。样品经提取过滤后,以10 mmol/L甘氨酸-甲醇为流动相,用Waters XBridge C18 (5 μm×4.6 mm×250 mm)色谱柱分离,高效液相色谱-荧光检测器进行定性和定量分析。结果表明,10种荧光着色剂的质量浓度与峰面积之间呈良好线性关系(R2>0.998)。二碘荧光素/二碘荧光素二钠的检出限为1 μg/g,定量限为3 μg/g,其余荧光着色剂的检出限为0.2 μg/g,定量限为0.5 μg/g。在高、中、低3种加标水平下,各目标化合物的回收率为88.7%~118.5%,相对标准偏差为1.8%~8.2% (n=6)。该方法前处理简便快捷、灵敏度高、基质干扰小,适用于化妆品中10种荧光着色剂的同时检测。

    A method for the simultaneous determination of 10 fluorescent colorants (fluorescein, sodium fluorescein, dibromofluorescein, diiodofluorescein, disodium diiodofluorescein, tetrabromofluorescein, disodium tetrabromofluorescein, tetrachloro-tetrabromofluorescein, disodium tetrachloro-tetrabromofluorescein and rhodamine B) in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography with fluorescence detection was established. This method was used to monitor the risk for more than 30 products including eyebrow pencils, lipsticks, eye shadows and blushers. The effects of extraction solvents on the fluorescent colorants were explored, and it is found that when the extraction solvent is methanol, the recovery rate of various fluorescent colorants can reach the best level. Meanwhile, to obtain higher sensitivity, the alkaline mobile phase glycine-methanol system was used to separate the fluorescent colorants. The effects of pH and concentration of glycine buffer solutions on the resolution and fluorescence intensity of the ten fluorescent colorants were also studied. It is found that when the pH is 9.0 and the concentration is 10 mmol/L, the resolution and fluorescence intensity of the 10 fluorescent colorants can achieve the best results. Finally, the fluorescent colorants were separated by Waters XBridge C18 (5 μm×4.6 mm×250 mm)column using 10 mmol/L glycine-methanol as the mobile phase, and qualitative and quantitative analysis was performed by high performance liquid chromatography with a fluorescence detector. The results show that there is a good linear relationship between concentration and peak area with R2 no less than 0.998. The limits of detection for diiodofluorescein and disodium diiodofluorescein are 1 μg/g and the limits of quantification are 3 μg/g, while the limits of detection for other fluorescent colorants are 0.2 μg/g and the limits of quantification are 0.5 μg/g. The average recoveries are from 88.7% to 118.5%, with relative standard deviations are in the range of 1.8%-8.2% (n=6). This method has advantages such as simple pretreatment, high sensitivity and almost little interference from matrix. It is suitable for the simultaneous determination of the 10 fluorescent colorants in cosmetics. The method is expected to fill the gap in current detection methods and provide strong technical support for the quality monitoring and residue analysis of fluorescent colorants in cosmetics.

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    HPLC-MS/MS法测定育发类化妆品中22种禁用物质
    Determination of 22 prohibited substances in hair growth cosmetics by HPLC-MS/MS method
    宫旭,方方
    2021 (9):  910-917.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.09.015
    摘要 ( 209 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF(1230KB) ( 232 )  

    建立了高效液相色谱-串联质谱(HPLC-MS/MS)同时测定育发类化妆品中22种禁用物质的分析方法。样品经饱和氯化钠分散后,采用乙腈超声提取,梯度洗脱,多反应监测扫描方式测定,基质匹配标准曲线进行定量分析。结果显示,22种禁用物质在相应的质量浓度范围内成良好的线性关系,相关系数(r)均在0.995以上,检出限(LODs)为4.9~49.7 ng/g,两种基质中的平均回收率为80.7%~110.3%,相对标准偏差(RSD,n=6)均小于15%。本方法简便、灵敏、准确,可用于育发类化妆品中非法添加22种禁用物质的定性及定量测定。

    A method of high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS/MS)was developed for simultaneous determination of 22 prohibited substances in hair growth cosmetics. After dispersed in saturated sodium chloride solution, the samples were ultrasonically extracted with acetonitrile, and separated by gradient elution. The analysis was performed under multiple reaction monitoring (MRM). Matrix-matched standard curve was used for quantitative analysis. The results show that the 22 prohibited substances show good linear relationship within the range of corresponding mass concentrations with the correlation coefficients (r) more than 0.995. The limits of detection (LODs) are 4.9-49.7 ng/g. The average recoveries are within the range of 80.7%-110.3% with the RSD (n=6) less than 15% in the two matrices. With the advantages of simplicity, sensitivity and accuracy, the established method is suitable for the analysis of the 22 prohibited substances in hair growth cosmetics.

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    QuEChERS-UPLC法测定化妆品中10种性激素
    Determination of 10 sex hormones in cosmetics by QuEChERS-UPLC
    胡贝,李丽霞,刘红,黄伟,丁晓萍
    2021 (9):  918-924.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.09.016
    摘要 ( 314 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF(1341KB) ( 198 )  

    建立了QuEChERS-UPLC法测定化妆品中10种性激素的方法。样品利用饱和氯化钠进行分散,乙腈超声提取后经QuEChERS净化。采用CORTECS C18+(2.1 mm×100 mm,2.7 μm)色谱柱分离,以乙腈-水为流动相进行梯度洗脱,PDA检测器多波长检测,外标法定量。结果表明,10种性激素在各自的质量浓度范围内线性关系良好(相关系数r>0.99),检出限(LOD)和定量下限(LOQ)分别为0.02~0.1 μg/mL和0.05~0.3 μg/mL。在5,25和50 μg/g 3个加标水平下的回收率为81.2%~103.5%,相对标准偏差(RSD,n=6)为0.5%~12.0%。该方法操作简便、重现性好,适用于化妆品中性激素的测定。

    A method of QuEChERS coupled with ultra-high performance liquid chromatography was developed for determination of 10 sex hormones in cosmetics. The sample was dispersed using saturated sodium chloride, and purified by QuEChERS after acetonitrile ultrasound extraction. Chromatographic separation was achieved on a CORTECS C18+ column (2.1 mm×100 mm, 2.7 μm) by gradient elution using acetonitrile-water as mobile phase. PDA detector was used to test samples at multiple wavelengths, and external standard method was used for quantification. Results show that there is a good linear relationship for each of the 10 sex hormones in respective mass concentration range with their correlation coefficients (r) all above 0.99. The limits of detection (LOD) and the limits of quantitation(LOQ) for the 10 sex hormones are in the range of 0.02-0.1 μg/mL and 0.05-0.3 μg/mL, respectively. Average recoveries at three levels of 5, 25 and 50 μg/g are in the range of 81.2%-103.5%, with relative standard deviations (RSD, n=6) of 0.5%-12.0%. With the advantages of simplicity and good reproducibility, this method is suitable for the analysis of sex hormones in cosmetics.

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