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    2021年, 第51卷, 第6期 刊出日期:2021-06-22 上一期    下一期
    科技讲座
    化妆品乳液及乳化新技术(Ⅲ)——多重乳液的稳定性及在化妆品中的应用
    Cosmetic emulsions and new technologies of emulsification (Ⅲ) Stability of multiple emulsions and their application in cosmetics
    杨佳慧,梁蓉,杨成
    2021 (6):  477-484.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.001
    摘要 ( 1076 )   HTML ( 110 )   PDF(1811KB) ( 599 )  

    多重乳液由于其“三相两膜”的独特结构,在包埋、缓释以及保护活性物方面有着较大的优势,被认为是最有前途的化妆品体系之一。然而,多重乳液由于表面过量自由能在热力学上很不稳定,限制了它在实际生产生活中的应用。综述了近些年多重乳液的研究进展,首先围绕多重乳液在化妆品应用中的主要挑战——稳定性问题,阐述了多重乳液的失稳机制、多重乳液的稳定性表征及提高多重乳液稳定性的方法,然后概述了近些年来多重乳液在化妆品中的应用,最后对多重乳液的发展进行了总结展望。文章为多重乳液在化妆品中的应用与开发提供借鉴。

    Multiple emulsion has great advantages in embedding, slow-release and protection of active substances due to its unique structure of “three-phase and two-membrane”, considered to be one of the most promising cosmetic systems. However,Multiple emulsions are thermodynamically unstable due to excessive surface free energy, which limits its application in actual production and life. In this paper, the research progress of multiple emulsions in recent years was reviewed. First, the instability mechanism of multiple emulsions, the stability characterization of multiple emulsions and the methods to improve the stability of multiple emulsions were described in the light of the main challenge of multiple emulsions in cosmetic applications. Then, the application of multiple emulsions in cosmetics in recent years was outlined. Finally, the development of multiple emulsions was summarized and prospected. This article provides a reference for the application and development of multiple emulsions in cosmetics.

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    化妆品功效评价(ⅩⅢ)——消费者使用测试
    Efficacy evaluation of cosmetics (XⅢ)Consumer use testing
    刘唯一,周琳,赵华
    2021 (6):  485-490.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.002
    摘要 ( 5047 )   HTML ( 202 )   PDF(965KB) ( 2128 )  

    化妆品功效宣称应当具有充分的科学依据,化妆品功效评价试验是重要的评价手段之一,包括人体功效评价试验、实验室试验和消费者使用测试。消费者使用测试具有简易灵活、直接受众面广、采集信息量大的特点,相比于人体功效评价试验和实验室试验成本更低,还可为企业提供更多科学实用的消费者信息。介绍了《化妆品功效宣称评价规范》对于消费者使用测试方法的项目要求和技术导则,包括提出问题、明确所需信息、设计信息收集方法、组织和实施数据收集、整理与分析数据资料、报告和解释调研结果等测试步骤,以及样品、受试者、测试环境相关要求,重点就消费者人数的确定、测试方法的选择、数据分析方法和报告撰写要求进行了详细论述。为化妆品功效评价中的消费者使用测试试验设计提供参考,为化妆品功效宣称提供科学支持。

    Cosmetic efficacy claims should have a scientific basis. Efficacy evaluation is one of the very important aspects for cosmetics, including human-body efficacy evaluation, laboratory test and consumer use test. Herein, relevant requirements for consumers to use test methods in “Cosmetics Efficacy Claim Evaluation Standards” have been introduced. Procedures of consumer use testing include asking questions, clarifying the required information, designing information collection methods, organizing and implementing data collection, sorting and analyzing data, reporting and interpreting survey results, etc. The preparation stage of consumer test needs to determine the selection and exclusion criteria of consumers, the number of consumers, complete the product safety evaluation, and determine the test plan. According to the purpose, the test method can be divided into qualitative test and quantitative test. According to the method, it can be divided into interview, questionnaire test and consumer diary. Data analysis methods can be divided into descriptive statistical analysis, regression analysis, and correlation analysis. Among them, methods of descriptive analysis are the most widely used, using general data, tabulation and graphs to make trend analysis, frequency analysis and dispersion degree analysis, etc. Finally, the functions, writing requirements and precautions of the report of consumer use testing, have been described, which can provide reference for the design of consumer use testing in cosmetic efficacy evaluation. In the future, consumer use testing will be closely linked with enterprises. It is an easy, efficient, and cost-effective testing method that is worthy of widespread adoption. In addition, it can also provide companies with more scientific and practical consumer information, and it can help companies develop markets, win consumers, and improve consumption levels, and avoid the blindness of corporate production. However, because there is no precise instrument for qualitative measurement, the data may be affected by consumer subjective factors, resulting in data that are not as objective as data from human-body efficacy evaluation test or laboratory test. To ensure the accuracy of the data to the greatest extent, it is necessary to grasp the selection of subjects, sample size, information collection method, organization and implementation of the experiment, statistical analysis of data, interpretation of results, etc. Thus it can provide scientific support for cosmetic efficacy claims and provide a reliable basis for product development and market positioning.

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    开发与应用
    不同比例荆芥-连翘药对挥发油成分及抗痤疮致病菌研究
    Study on component analysis of different proportions of volatile oil from Schizonepetae Herba-Forsythiae Fructus and its anti-acne pathogenic bacterias
    邱思娃,陈素雯,孔淑霞,蔡延渠,吴燕红,李苑新
    2021 (6):  491-495.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.003
    摘要 ( 360 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF(1105KB) ( 295 )  

    采用GC-MS测定不同质量比(1:1、1:2.5、2.5:1)荆芥-连翘药对及其单味饮片挥发油的化学成分,结合抗痤疮丙酸杆菌、金黄色葡萄球菌和表皮葡萄球菌的作用,以探究荆芥-连翘药对抗痤疮致病菌的配伍意义。结果表明,荆芥挥发油主要含有胡薄荷酮(41.52%)和异薄荷酮(41.62%),连翘挥发油主要含有β-蒎烯(38.93%)、蒎烯(19.46%)和桧烯(15.06%);荆芥-连翘1:1配伍挥发油成分变化较少,1:2.5和2.5:1配伍挥发油成分变化较大,荆芥挥发油成分容易受连翘的影响。荆芥-连翘1:1配伍对痤疮丙酸杆菌和金黄色葡萄球菌的抑制作用较好,对表皮葡萄球菌有一定程度抑制作用,1:2.5和2.5:1配伍挥发油则表现出弱抑菌性,可能与配伍后化学成分发生变化有关。

    In order to explore the compatibility of Schizonepetae Herba-Forsythiae Fructus in the treatment of acne, the components of different quality proportions (1:1, 1:2.5, 2.5:1) of volatile oil were analyzed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometer(GC-MS) and the inhibitory effect on staphylococcus aureus, staphylococcus epidermidis and propionibacterium acnes in vitro were compared. The results show that Schizonepetae Herba volatile oil mainly contained p-Menthone(41.52%) and Menthone(41.62%), and Forsythiae Fructus volatile oil mainly contained β-Pinene(38.93%), Pinene(19.46%) and Sabinene(15.06%). The components of volatile oil from Schizonepetae Herba-Forsythiae Fructus 1:1 had litter change, but 1:2.5 and 2.5:1 had must change. The components of volatile oil from Schizonepetae Herba were easily affected by Forsythiae Fructus. The volatile oil of Schizonepetae Herba-Forsythiae Fructus 1:1 had a better inhibitory effect on propionibacterium acnes and staphylococcus aureus, and had a certain inhibitory effect on staphylococcus epidermidis. The volatile oil in ratios of 1:2.5 and 2.5:1 showed weak inhibitory, which may be related to the content changes after compatibility.

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    N-月桂酰基甲基丙氨酸钠的合成与性能研究
    Study on the synthesis and performance of sodium N-lauroyl methylalaninate
    李颖,许虎君
    2021 (6):  496-501.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.004
    摘要 ( 499 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF(1231KB) ( 565 )  

    以甲基丙氨酸和月桂酰氯为主要原料,在碱性条件下合成了一种阴离子型氨基酸表面活性剂N-月桂酰基甲基丙氨酸钠(SLMA),通过FT-IR、MS和1H NMR对产物结构进行表征,测定了SLMA的Krafft点、临界胶束浓度(cmc)、表面张力、乳化、润湿、泡沫、去污性能,以及SLMA不同温度下的电导率、微极性及临界胶束聚集数。结果表明:SLMA的Krafft点低于0 ℃;25,35,45和55 ℃下SLMA的cmc分别为8.23×10-3,8.27×10-3,8.29×10-3和8.34×10-3 mol/L,γcmc分别为33.00,32.90,32.80和32.10 mN/m;SLMA的乳化和润湿性能优于N-月桂酰基肌氨酸钠(LS),起泡性、稳泡性及去污值与LS相当;在25,35,45和55 ℃下SLMA的临界胶束聚集数分别为11,35,60和79。

    Using methylalanine and lauroyl chloride as the main raw materials, an anionic amino acid surfactant, N-lauroyl methylalanine sodium salt (SLMA) , was synthesized under alkaline conditions. The structure of the product was characterized through FT-IR, MS and 1H NMR. The Krafft point, critical micelle concentration (cmc) , surface tension, emulsification, wetting, foaming and detergency of SLMA were determined, as well as the conductivity, micropolarity and critical micelle aggregation number of SLMA at different temperatures. The results show that the Krafft point of SLMA is lower than 0 ℃. The cmc’s of SLMA are 8.23×10-3, 8.27×10-3, 8.29×10-3and 8.34×10-3 mol/L at 25, 35, 45 and 55 ℃, respectively, and the γcmc are 33.00, 32.90, 32.80 and 32.10 mN/m, respectively. The emulsification and wetting properties of SLMA are better than those of sodium N-lauroyl sarcosinate (LS) . The foaming, foam stabilization and detergency values of SLMA are equivalent to those of LS. The critical micelle aggregation number of SLMA are 11, 35, 60 and 79 at 25, 35, 45 and 55 ℃, respectively.

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    新型有机反离子季铵盐复配体系的抑菌效果研究
    Study on the antibacterial effect of a mixed system containing a novel quaternary ammonium salt with organic counterion
    张璐,姜亚洁,李俊,王志飞,鞠洪斌,王亚魁
    2021 (6):  502-505.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.005
    摘要 ( 359 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF(931KB) ( 388 )  

    选用新型有机反离子季铵盐双癸基二甲基甲酸铵(DDAF)、易生物降解双子季铵盐1,4-二(月桂酰丙基二甲基氯化铵)丁烯(GC-B)以及市面上常用的季铵盐十二烷基二甲基苄基氯化铵(1227)和双癸基二甲基氯化铵(2280)进行复配并对其抑菌性能进行测试,通过均匀实验的设计及优化得到较佳的配方比例。结果表明:SPSS对数据的回归方程分析,回归方程拟合效果佳,得到了复配消毒杀菌剂的较佳比例为:3% DDAF、6% GC-B、0.5% 1227、0.5% 2280。将此配方产品与两种市售产品进行对比,此配方产品在成本上与市售产品相差不大,其抑菌性能要优于市售产品,且选用的DDAF与GC-B为新型绿色环保季铵盐,细菌无耐药性,有进一步推广利用的价值。

    With the outbreak of a series of epidemics, disinfection and sterilization have gradually become the norm. Because a single product may be limited in disinfection and sterilization capacity and easy to generate drug resistance, the research and development of new compound products are particularly important. Herein, a mixed system based on a novel quaternary ammonium salt with organic counterion, didecyl dimethyl ammonium formate (DDAF) , and an easily biodegradable gemini quaternary ammonium salt, 1,4-bis (lauroyl propyl dimethyl ammonium chloride) butene (GC-B) , and the commonly used quaternary ammonium salts on the market, dodecyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride (1227) and didecyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (2280) , was prepared and tested for their antibacterial properties. The optimal formula ratio was obtained through the design and optimization of uniform experiments. The best proportion of mix-disinfectant is:3% DDAF, 6% GC-B, 0.5% 1227 and 0.5% 2280. The antibacterial performance of this formula was compared with that of two commercially available products. The antibacterial rates of this product against Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli and Candida albicans are all 100%, which is better than the two commercially available products. In terms of cost, the cost of this formula is basically the same as the cost of the commercially available products. The DDAF and GC-B in this formula are green and environmentally friendly quaternary ammonium salts, and the bacteria show no drug resistance. This formula has the potential of further promotion and utilization.

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    火山矿泥Pickering乳液的制备及其pH稳定性
    Preparation of Pickering emulsion from volcano mud and its pH stability
    方振兴,王希英,吴婧,曾颖,潘虹,谢振华
    2021 (6):  506-512.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.006
    摘要 ( 331 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF(1731KB) ( 410 )  

    以五大连池火山矿泥颗粒为乳化剂,以橄榄油为油相,去离子水为水相,通过L9(34)正交试验优化制备工艺,制备火山矿泥Pickering乳液,对制备后乳液的粒度、微观形貌、Zeta电位进行分析,并对其pH稳定性进行研究。结果表明,按质量分数橄榄油20%,矿泥乳化颗粒3%,去离子水77%的配方,在40 ℃,80 MPa下进行高压均质可制备稳定Pickering乳液。乳液平均粒度为(10.516±0.141) μm,在冷冻电子显微镜下观察到清晰、完整、均匀的球形乳液颗粒,Zeta电位平均值为-55.01 mV。乳液在pH 4~12区间无乳析现象,在pH 1~14区间无破乳现象。火山矿泥乳化颗粒同时具有亲水性和亲油性,在不添加其他乳化剂的条件下,可以与橄榄油形成稳定的水包油Pickering乳液,并且乳液具有优异的pH稳定性。

    Taking Wudalianchi volcano mud particles as emulsifier, olive oil as oil phase and deionized water as water phase, the preparation process of volcano mud Pickering emulsion was optimized by L9(3 4) orthogonal experiment. The particle size, microstructure and Zeta potential of the emulsion were analyzed, and the pH stability was studied. The results show that stable Pickering emulsion could be prepared by high-pressure (80 MPa)homogenization at 40 ℃ according to the formula in which the mass fractions of olive oil, volcano mud particles and deionized water are 20%, 3% and 77%, respectively. The average particle size of the emulsion is (10.516±0.141) μm. Clear, intact and uniform spherical emulsion particles are observed by Cryo-SEM. The average Zeta potential is -55.01 mV. The emulsion exhibits no creaming in the pH range of 4-12, and demulsification has not been observed in the pH range of 1-14. The volcano mud particles are both hydrophilic and lipophilic. The Pickering emulsion with olive oil as oil phase can be stabilized with volcano mud particles without addition of other chemicals, and the emulsion has excellent pH stability.

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    ATP生物荧光增幅法在化妆品微生物检测中的适用性研究
    Applicability study of amplified ATP bioluminescence assay in microbial detection of cosmetics
    李婷,沈颖,蔡俊松,刘艺茹,陈怡文,刘骥,姚粟
    2021 (6):  513-521.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.007
    摘要 ( 333 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF(1075KB) ( 470 )  

    收集了不同功能宣称、作用部位、产品剂型、使用人群的普通化妆品和特殊化妆品,共计17个品牌34种市售产品,开展了ATP生物荧光增幅法的方法适用性研究。通过样品影响测试选择本底荧光信号值符合方法要求的产品进行接菌试验,将大肠埃希氏菌(Escherichia coli)、铜绿假单胞菌(Pseudomonas aeruginosa)、金黄色葡萄球菌(Staphylococcus aureus)、枯草芽胞杆菌(Bacillus subtilis)、白色念珠菌(Canidia albicans)和黑曲霉(Aspergillus niger)按照目标浓度10~100 CFU/g接种于供试化妆品中,根据接菌试验结果评价ATP生物荧光增幅法的适用性。结果表明,31种化妆品本底荧光信号值在45~526 RLU之间,均小于3倍空白培养基信号值,符合检测方法要求;3种产品部分批次的荧光信号值高于3倍空白培养基信号值,未通过样品影响测试。27种供试产品接菌试验全部阳性检出,可使用ATP生物荧光增幅法进行微生物检测;4种供试产品均存在部分菌株未能检出的现象,需采用稀释法、中和法或膜过滤等方法开展进一步研究。综上,ATP生物荧光增幅法用于化妆品微生物检测有效可行,可推广应用于化妆品中微生物污染样品的快速筛查。

    34 commercial cosmetics from 17 brands, covering ordinary cosmetics and special cosmetics with different functions, parts of action, formulations and users, were collected to conduct the applicability study of amplified ATP bioluminescence assay in microbial detection of cosmetics. Sample effect test was conducted firstly, and the products whose signal values met the requirements of the method were selected for further treatment. Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus subtilis, Candida albicans and Aspergillus niger were separately inoculated into the selected cosmetics at the target concentration of 10-100 CFU/g, the results of which were used to evaluate the applicability of amplified ATP bioluminescence assay. Results show that the signal values of 31 cosmetics are between 45-526 RLU, which are less than 3-fold signal value of medium blank and meet the requirements of the detection method. The signal values of 3 products are between 610-7 791 RLU, which are higher than 3-fold signal value of the medium blank and do not meet the method requirements. The test results of 27 products contaminated with 6 strains are all positive. 4 products are partially positively detected, and need to be further tested through dilution, neutralization, membrane filtration or other methods. In conclusion, amplified ATP bioluminescence assay is an effective and practical method for the microbial detection of cosmetics, and it can be applied in the rapid screening of the cosmetic products contaminated with microbes.

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    祛痘中草药的筛选及其在治疗痤疮中的应用
    Screening of anti-acne herbs and their application in the treatment of acne
    赵大敏,王学东,翟春涛
    2021 (6):  522-527.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.008
    摘要 ( 411 )   HTML ( 21 )   PDF(1492KB) ( 697 )  

    利用抑菌和抑制5α-还原酶活性的效果为祛痘指标评价,从天然中草药中筛选出黄芩、丹参和连翘,并以这3种药材的醇提取物为功效成分制备成祛痘啫喱,检验临床应用效果。得出以此3种药材组成的复方对痤疮丙酸杆菌(P.acnes)和金黄色葡萄球菌(S.aureus)的最低抑制浓度(MIC)分别为3.13和3.13 mg/mL;在5 mg/mL下对5α-还原酶的抑制率为46.5%;并且祛痘啫喱能有效地减少痤疮的严重程度。结果表明,综合抑菌和抑制酶活性两方面作用,中草药黄芩、丹参和连翘显示出较好的效果,并具有良好的应用效果。

    The anti-acne efficacy of herbs was evaluated according to their antibacterial effect and their inhibitory effect on 5α-reductase. Scutellaria Baicalensis, Salvia miltiorrhiza and Forsythia were thus screened from the Chinese herbs. An anti-acne gel was prepared in which the alcohol extracts of the three herbs were used as effective ingredients and its clinical effect was investigated. The minimum inhibitory concentrations (MIC) of the compound formula on P. acnes and S. aureus are 3.13 and 3.13 mg/mL, respectively. The inhibition rate against 5α-reductase at 5 mg/mL is 46.5%. This anti-acne gel can effectively reduce the severity of acne. The results indicate that the extracts of these three herbs show good antibacterial effect and enzyme inhibitory effect, and they have good application effect.

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    采用DNA条形码技术鉴别面膜粉中常用的药妆同源植物源性成分
    Identification of the common cosmeceutical homologous plants in mask powder products based on DNA barcoding
    王洪越,王迎春,江丽,杨艳歌,刘鸣畅,吴亚君
    2021 (6):  528-534.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.009
    摘要 ( 257 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF(1349KB) ( 392 )  

    以市面上常用于面膜粉的22种药妆同源植物原料为研究对象,比较了常用的5组基因的物种鉴别效果,筛选出适用于面膜粉中药妆同源植物源性成分鉴别的DNA条形码。结果表明:ITS 2/3和matK基因联合能够准确的鉴定药妆同源植物源性成分。同时采用该方法,结合本实验室建立的混合样品克隆测序流程,对14份市售样品(包括11份单一样品,3份混合产品)进行了适用性分析。实验结果显示面膜粉中的药妆同源植物成分存在35.71%的掺假率。本研究建立的基于ITS 2/3和matK基因的DNA条形码技术能够准确的鉴定面膜粉中的药妆同源植物源性成分,为该类产品的质量和安全提供技术支撑。

    Took 22 common cosmeceutical plant ingredients in mask powder products as the research object, and screened out the most suitable genes for species identification from five genes. The results show that combined ITS 2/3 and matK can accurately identify cosmeceutical homologous plants. Furthermore, combined with the clone sequencing process for mixture established by our laboratory, 14 commercial mask powder products (including 11 single samples and 3 mixed products) are used to analyze the applicability. The results show that the adulteration rate is 35.71% in the cosmetics and edible homologous plant in mask powder products. The establishment of DNA barcoding based on ITS 2/3 and matK genes can accurately and reliably identify cosmeceutical homologous plants, which provides technical support for the quality and safety control of mask powder products.

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    依克多因与羟基积雪草甙协同抗炎作用的研究
    Studies on the synergistic anti-inflammatory effects of Ectoin and Madecassoside
    周湖武,霍永丽,方丽,马诗经,韩萍,林丽,杜志云
    2021 (6):  535-538.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.010
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    采用LPS诱导RAW264.7细胞炎症模型证实了依克多因、羟基积雪草甙及依克多因与羟基积雪草甙组合配比在设定的质量浓度条件下,对LPS诱导的RAW264.7细胞产生NO均具有良好的抑制作用,即在细胞水平具有抗炎活性。同时依克多因与羟基积雪草甙组合在设定的不同质量浓度及配比下对NO的抑制率大多高于单一组分,并且依克多因与羟基积雪草甙组合在设定的不同质量浓度及配比下的SI值<1,以上说明依克多因与羟基积雪草甙组合在抗炎功效方面具有协同增效作用,关于其协同增效机理,需要进一步实验研究确定。

    The inflammation model of RAW264.7 cells induced by LPS was used to detect that Ectoin, Madecassoside and their combination under different experimental set mass concentrations and ratios had good inhibitory effect on the production of NO in LPS-induced RAW264.7 cells, that is, it had anti-inflammatory activity at the cellular level. Meanwhile, under different experimental set mass concentrations and ratios, most of the combination of Ectoin and Madecassoside show higher inhibition rate of NO than that of a single component. In addition, the SI values under different experimental set mass concentrations and ratios are lower than 1. The above results demonstrate that the combination of Ectoin and Madecassoside has a synergistic interaction in anti-inflammatory, however, the mechanism needs further study.

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    广西珊瑚姜精油成分GC-MS分析及抑菌活性研究
    GC-MS analysis and antibacterial/antifungal abilities of the essential oil of Guangxi Zingiber corallinum Hance
    程红柳,王文翠,姚雷,李玉红
    2021 (6):  539-545.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.011
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    以广西珊瑚姜精油为实验材料,测定该产区珊瑚姜精油的成分以及对巨大芽孢杆菌、球毛壳霉菌等8种菌的抑菌性能。采用气相色谱-质谱联用仪(GC-MS)对精油的成分进行测定并分析,通过纸片扩散法测定抑菌能力,利用试管稀释法测定最小杀菌浓度和最小抑菌浓度(MIC)。结果显示,该产区珊瑚姜精油中共检测出36种化学成分,其主要成分包括桧烯(27.87%)、松油烯-4-醇(22.57%)、1,4-双(甲氧基)-三戊并烯(10.67%)等,其它微量成分有萜品油烯、α-松油醇等;珊瑚姜精油对本实验中的8种菌的抑菌能力有差别,珊瑚姜精油对于细菌的抑制效果不如阳性药物,但对真菌的抑制效果优于阳性药物,其中,对大肠埃希氏菌、球毛壳霉菌、红色毛癣菌的抑制能力较强,MIC为1 µL/mL,对黄曲霉菌的抑制能力相对较弱,MIC为15 µL/mL,对巨大芽孢杆菌、金黄色葡萄球菌、普通变形杆菌、白色念珠菌的MIC为3 µL/mL。广西珊瑚姜精油对于实验用菌具有一定的抑菌性能且具备广谱性,有较好的开发前景。

    The essential oil of Guangxi Zingiber corallinum Hance was used as the experimental material to measure the components thereof. Its antibacterial/antifungal abilities against 8 kinds of bacteria and fungi were also studied, such as Bacillus megaterium and Chaetomium globosum. The components of Zingiber corallinum Hance essential oil was determined by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). Its inhibition zone was determined by disk diffusion method, and its minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) and minimum bactericidal concentration (MBC) or minimum fungicidal concentration (MFC) were determined by tube dilution method. The results show that there are 36 kinds of components detected in the Zingiber corallinum Hance essential oil from this region, and its main components include sabinene (27.87%), terpinen-4-ol (22.57%) , triquinacene 1,4-bis(methoxy)-(10.67%) and so on. Other trace components include terpinolene, α-terpineol, etc. Zingiber corallinum Hance essential oil has different antibacterial/antifungal abilities against the eight kinds of bacteria and fungi in the experiment. Compared with the positive drug, Zingiber corallinum Hance essential oil has worse inhibitory effects against bacteria but has better inhibitory effects against fungi. The inhibitory effects against Escherichia coli, Chaetomium globosum and Trichophyton rubrum are stronger, with MIC of 1 µL/mL; the inhibitory effect against Aspergillus flavus is relatively weak, with MIC of 15 µL/mL. The MIC against Bacillus megaterium, Staphylococcus aureus, Proteus vulgaris and Candida albicans is 3 µL/mL. Guangxi Zingiber corallinum Hance essential oil has certain antibacterial performance and broad spectrum to experimental bacteria, and has a good development prospect.

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    专论与综述
    磁性表面活性剂的研究进展
    Research progress of magnetic surfactants
    王军,张晨龙,杨许召,白亚榕
    2021 (6):  546-553.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.012
    摘要 ( 616 )   HTML ( 30 )   PDF(1089KB) ( 1209 )  

    磁性表面活性剂是一类同时具有表面活性和对磁响应双重功能的表面活性剂,允许表面活性剂的性质可以简单的由磁场的“开”和“关”来控制。本文综述了磁性表面活性剂的结构、合成、性能和应用研究进展。具有磁响应的反离子与表面活性基团可通过正负离子静电吸引或金属离子与表面活性基团形成络合物相结合,磁性表面活性剂比非磁性母体表面活性剂具有优异的表面性能,如低的表面张力和小的临界胶束浓度(cmc)。外加磁场能够进一步降低磁性表面活性剂水溶液的表面张力。磁性表面活性剂的磁矩主要由金属离子所决定,烷基三甲基铵类磁性表面活性剂的磁矩大于烷基咪唑类磁性表面活性剂的磁矩。磁性表面活性剂在药物输送、微乳液、纳米材料、杀菌等方面表现出了独特的性能,预示这类表面活性剂具有良好的发展前景。

    Magnetic surfactants are a kind of surfactants with both surface activity and magnetic response. The properties of the surfactants can be simply controlled by the “on” and “off” of external magnetic fields. The structure, synthesis, properties and application of magnetic surfactants are reviewed. The counterions with magnetic response and surface active ions can be combined by electrostatic attraction or complexation. Magnetic surfactants have better surface properties than nonmagnetic parent surfactants, such as lower surface tension and smaller cmc. The surface tension of aqueous solutions of magnetic surfactants can be further reduced by external magnetic field. The magnetic moment of a magnetic surfactant is mainly determined by metal ions, and the magnetic moment of alkyl trimethyl ammonium magnetic surfactant is greater than that of alkyl imidazole magnetic surfactant. Magnetic surfactants exhibit unique properties in drug delivery, microemulsion, nanomaterials and sterilization, which indicates that this kind of surfactants have good development prospect.

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    刺激响应性Pickering乳液及其应用研究进展
    Progress on stimulus-responsive Pickering emulsions and their applications
    龚成易,于浩,王琦琦,孙继勇,宋爱新
    2021 (6):  554-563.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.013
    摘要 ( 534 )   HTML ( 33 )   PDF(1454KB) ( 746 )  

    Pickering乳液具有很多优势,尤以动力学因素赋予的优异稳定性著称。但实际应用中经常只需要体系暂时稳定,而后根据应用过程的需要实现快速破乳或者使乳液类型发生转变。因此,近年来刺激响应性Pickering乳液受到了广泛关注。文章主要从影响乳液性质的颗粒润湿性入手,总结了赋予Pickering乳液以响应行为的常见策略,综述了对pH、温度、CO2、光、外力场、氧化-还原、离子强度等单一刺激以及多重外部刺激发生响应行为的Pickering乳液,并简要介绍了Pickering乳液的刺激响应行为在催化反应、物质控释、高内相乳液制备、材料制备等领域的应用,最后对其发展方向进行了展望。

    Pickering emulsions have many advantages and are particularly well-known for their excellent stability imparted by kinetic factors. However, it is often necessary to temporarily stabilize the system, and then to quickly break the emulsion or change the emulsion type to reach the needs in many application processes. Therefore, the stimuli-responsive Pickering emulsions have received extensive attention. Started with one of the important factors affecting the properties of emulsions, this paper summarized the wettability of particles, as well as the common strategies for bringing responsive behavior to Pickering emulsions. Pickering emulsions that responded to stimuli such as pH, temperature, CO2, light, external force field, oxidation-reduction, ionic strength, and multiple stimuli, were reviewed. The applications of the stimulus-responsive behavior of Pickering emulsions in catalytic reaction, controlled release of substances, high internal phase emulsion preparation, material preparation were briefly introduced. The development directions of stimulus-responsive Pickering emulsions in the future were also prospected.

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    分析与检测
    高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中的溴米索伐、卡溴脲和卡立普多及质谱确证
    Determination of bromisoval, carbromal and carisoprodol in cosmetics using HPLC and their verification by HPLC-MS/MS
    尚宇瀚,郭项雨,宗艺晶,李焘,李文涛,马强
    2021 (6):  564-568.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.014
    摘要 ( 299 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF(1189KB) ( 419 )  

    建立了化妆品中禁用物质溴米索伐、卡溴脲和卡立普多的高效液相色谱分析方法。该方法通过将二极管阵列检测器和蒸发光散射检测器串联使用,实现了3种待测物的同时检测。其中,溴米索伐和卡溴脲采用二极管阵列检测器进行检测,定量限为5 mg/kg,方法平均回收率为90.7%~100.5%,相对标准偏差小于5.8%;卡立普多采用蒸发光散射检测器进行检测,定量限为20 mg/kg,方法平均回收率为96.8%~103.9%,相对标准偏差小于5.9%。对于疑似阳性的样品,进一步采用高效液相色谱-串联质谱法进行确证分析。该方法操作简便,检测时间短,方法学数据满足分析要求,适用于化妆品中禁用物质溴米索伐、卡溴脲和卡立普多的分析。

    An analytical method for the determination of bromisoval, carbromal and carisoprodol in cosmetics was developed based on high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). This method was capable of simultaneously quantifying the three analytes in a single run by combining a diode array detector (DAD) and an evaporative light scattering detector (ELSD) in series. The limits of quantitation (LOQs) for bromisoval and carbromal were 5 mg/kg, and the average recoveries ranged from 90.7% to 100.5% with the relative standard deviations (RSDs) less than 5.8%. The LOQ for carisoprodol was 20 mg/kg, and the average recoveries ranged from 96.8% to 103.9% with the RSDs less than 5.9%. The suspicious samples were subjected to further verification with high-performance liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS/MS). This method is simple, fast and suitable for the routine analysis of bromisoval, carbromal and carisoprodol in cosmetics.

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    高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中22种防晒剂
    Determination of 22 sunscreens by high performance liquid chromatography in cosmetics
    韩玮,刘杰,李丽霞,吕晓君
    2021 (6):  569-576.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.015
    摘要 ( 673 )   HTML ( 30 )   PDF(1654KB) ( 342 )  

    建立了化妆品中22种防晒剂的高效液相色谱法。样品经提取、超声、过滤后,采用OSAKA SODA CAPCELL PAK C18 MG Ⅱ色谱柱分离,高效液相色谱-二极管阵列检测器进行定性、定量分析。条件优化后,22种防晒剂浓度与峰面积之间呈良好的线性关系(r >0.999),检出限为0.01%~0.11%,定量限为0.03%~0.34%。在高、中、低三种浓度的添加回收试验中,回收率在89.7%~109.8%范围内,相对标准偏差小于5%。该方法灵敏度高、准确性好,可用于化妆品中22种防晒剂的定性、定量分析。

    A high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method was established for the determination of 22 sunscreens in cosmetics. The samples were extracted, ultrasonicated and then filtered. The target compounds were separated by OSAKA SODA CAPCELL PAK C18 MGⅡcolumn, and analyzed by HPLC with PDA detector. Under the optimized experimental conditions, there is a good linear relationship between peaks areas and sunscreens concentrations with the r values are higher than 0.999. The detection limits are in the range of 0.01%-0.11%, and the limits of quantification are in the range of 0.03%-0.34%. The average recoveries are in the range of 89.7%-109.8% with the relative standard deviations are less than 5%. This accurate and sensitive method is suitable for the qualitative and quantitative analysis of 22 sunscreens in cosmetics.

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    超高效液相色谱-串联质谱法(UPLC/MS-MS)测定人参化妆品中人参功效成分
    Determination of ginseng functional components in ginseng cosmetics by UPLC/MS-MS
    张伟清,侯俐南,李彬,刘慧锦,王海燕
    2021 (6):  577-582.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.016
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    建立了超高效液相色谱-三重四级杆质谱法(UPLC/MS-MS)测定人参化妆品中人参功效成分(人参皂苷Rg1,人参皂苷Re),并用该方法对市售28批样品进行风险监测。样品采用甲醇超声提取法,以0.05%甲酸水溶液-0.05%甲酸乙腈溶液为流动相,梯度洗脱,ACQUITY UPLC BEH C18 (2.1 mm×100 mm×1.7 μm)色谱柱分离,以UPLC/MS-MS负离子模式检测。同时对样品前处理条件及色谱-质谱条件进行优化,并完成方法学验证。结果表明,两种目标化合物在0.1~50 ng/mL及0.5~200 ng/mL质量浓度范围内呈良好线性关系,R2大于0.999 6;LOD为0.001 7~0.003 0 μg/g (S/N=3);在膏霜、乳液、洗护类基质中加标回收率为81.87%~94.45%,相对标准偏差小于5.64% (n=6)。该方法适用于人参化妆品中人参功效成分的测定。

    A method was established for the determination of ginseng functional components (ginsenoside Rg1, ginsenoside Re) in ginseng cosmetics with ultra-high performance liquid chromatography triple quadrupole mass spectrometry (UPLC/MS-MS). This method was used to monitor the risk of 28 batches of samples sold on the market. The samples were extracted by methanol ultrasonic method. The mobile phase was 0.05% formic acid aqueous solution - 0.05% formic acid acetonitrile solution, and the gradient elution was carried out. The samples were separated on the ACQUITY UPLC BEH C18 (2.1 mm×100 mm×1.7 μm) column and detected by UPLC/MS-MS negative ion mode. At the same time, the pretreatment conditions and UPLC/MS-MS conditions were optimized and the method was verified. The results show that the method shows good linearity in the concentration range of 0.1-50 ng/mL and 0.5-200 ng/mL, with R2 no less than 0.999 6. The limits of detection are in the range of 0.001 7-0.003 0 μg/g (S/N=3) . The average recoveries in sample matrix of cream, lotion and shampoo are from 81.87% to 94.45%, with relative standard deviations (RSDs) less than 5.64 (n=6) . This method is suitable for the determination of ginseng functional components in ginseng cosmetics.

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