防晒化妆品质量变化的衰减全反射傅里叶变换红外光谱研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.007

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

采用衰减全反射傅里叶变化红外光谱（ATR-FTIR）对不同配方组成的防晒化妆品进行了红外光谱鉴别并对其质量变化进行了追踪。结果表明,复配和单一防晒乳液因基质来源相同使得红外谱图的整体性和指纹性较为相似,但对其谱图进行二阶求导可放大各图谱指纹区间的差异用于配方组成差异较小的防晒乳液的鉴别。在6个月的加速实验中,同一乳液样品的红外谱图变化显著,且变化程度随着加速时间的增加而逐渐变大。依据空白乳液在加速过程中的谱图和相关系数变化情况,确定相关系数值0.980 0为此类化妆品红外检测时的整体质量变化临界值,即当红外谱图相关系数降至0.980 0时可认为产品的质量已发生明显变化,达到其有效期终点。由此可知,ATR-FTIR可以很直观地反映防晒乳液在其存储期间整体质量变化情况,是一种快速、科学的考察化妆品整体质量的方法。

关键词: 化妆品, 傅里叶变换衰减全反射红外光谱, 鉴别, 质量变化

Abstract:

Attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy （ATR-FTIR） was used to differentiate sunscreen cosmetics with different formulations and track their quality changes. The results show that the integrity and fingerprint of the infrared spectrum of single and mixed emulsions are similar because of the same matrixes. However, the second-order derivation of the spectrum can magnify the difference between the fingerprint intervals of each spectrum, and can be used to differentiate sunscreen lotions with small differences in composition. During the 6-month accelerated experiment, the infrared spectrum experience obvious changes, with significant reducing or disappearing peak intensity and changing peak positions. Besides, the degree of change gradually increases with the acceleration time. According to the changing conditions of spectrum and correlation coefficient of the blank emulsion during acceleration, the correlation coefficient value of 0.980 0 is determined as the critical value of the overall quality change of such cosmetics during infrared detection. That is, when the correlation coefficient of the spectrum decreases to 0.980 0, the overall quality of the cosmetic has changed and reached the end of its shelf-life. It can be seen that ATR-FTIR is a direct way to reflect the overall quality change of the product during its storage period, and proved to be a rapid and scientific method for the overall quality inspection of cosmetic.

Key words: cosmetics, ATR-FTIR, identification, quality variation

中图分类号:

TQ658

贺鑫鑫,曹进,王钢力. 防晒化妆品质量变化的衰减全反射傅里叶变换红外光谱研究[J]. 日用化学工业, 2020, 50(7): 470-476.

HE Xin-xin,CAO Jin,WANG Gang-li. Quality variation study of sunscreen cosmetics by attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2020, 50(7): 470-476.

图/表 5

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参考文献 12

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类别	产品分类	产品编号	规格/（g/支）	配方组成
油包水型（W/O）	复配乳液	O-1	50	基质空白、DHHB、EHT、EMC
	复配乳液	O-2	50	基质空白、EMC、OC
	空白乳液	O-3	50	基质空白
	单一乳液	O-4	50	基质空白、EMC
	单一乳液	O-5	50	基质空白、DHHB
	单一乳液	O-6	50	基质空白、EHT
	单一乳液	O-7	50	基质空白、OC

类别	乳液	相关系数										RSD/%
均匀性	O-1			1.000 0	0.999 0	0.998 7	0.999 9	0.999 7	0.999 1			0.053 5
	O-2			1.000 0	0.998 5	0.999 8	0.999 7	0.999 5	0.999 8			0.055 5
	O-3			1.000 0	0.999 4	0.998 6	0.999 5	0.999 1	0.999 9			0.052 1
精密度	O-1	1.000 0	0.999 8	0.999 9	0.999 9	0.999 9	0.999 9	0.999 9	0.999 9	0.999 8	0.999 8	0.005 4
	O-2	1.000 0	0.999 8	0.999 9	0.999 9	0.999 9	0.999 9	0.999 9	0.999 9	0.999 9	0.999 9	0.005 2
	O-3	1.000 0	0.999 5	0.999 9	0.999 9	0.999 9	0.999 9	0.999 8	0.999 7	0.999 7	0.999 7	0.013 8

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