当期目录

2020年, 第50卷, 第7期　刊出日期：2020-07-22 上一期    下一期

基础研究

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pH响应黏弹性油酰胺丙基二甲胺/邻苯二甲酸氢钾胶束体系流变性研究 Rheological properties of pH-responsive viscoelastic micellar system of oleylamidopropyl dimethyl amine/potassium hydrogen phthalate 崔秀,方波,许海涛 2020 (7):  433-438.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.001 摘要 ( 336 )   HTML ( 145 )   PDF(1365KB) ( 273 )   通过考察油酰胺丙基二甲胺（PKO-O）/邻苯二甲酸氢钾（PHP）黏弹性胶束体系的稳态剪切黏度、流动曲线、剪切触变性、黏弹性、热触变性等流变学性质,研究了该胶束体系的pH响应性。结果表明,200 s-1下,pH=7.47时胶束体系稳态剪切黏度较大,为122.3 mPa·s;在pH=7.61,7.47,6.40 3个状态间,稳态剪切黏度可循环切换多次,表明该胶束体系具有良好的pH响应性;PKO-O/PHP胶束体系为剪切变稀的正触变性流体,其流动曲线可用Cross本构方程进行表征;该体系是典型的黏弹、热触变性流体,pH=7.47时体系具有较大的复模量和显著的热触变性。 The pH responsiveness of the viscoelastic micellar system of oleylamidopropyl dimethyl amine （PKO-O）/potassium hydrogen phthalate （PHP） was studied by investigating the rheological properties such as steady-state shear viscosity, flow curve, shear thixotropy, viscoelasticity and thermal thixotropy of the fluid. The steady-state shear viscosity of the micellar system （pH=7.47） was high, which was 122.3 mPa·s at 200 s-1. And the steady-state shear viscosity could be switched cyclically between the status at pH 7.61, 7.47 and 6.40, indicating that this micellar system had good pH responsiveness. In addition, the PKO-O/PHP micellar system was shear-thinning and positive thixotropic fluid. The flow curve could be characterized by the Cross constitutive equation. The micellar system （pH=7.47） was a typical viscoelastic fluid with high complex modulus and significant thermal thixotropy. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

科技讲座

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两亲聚合物设计合成及其增效体系研究（VII）— 超分子体系的乳化作用 Study on the design and synthesis of amphiphilic polymers and their synergistic systems （VII）Emulsification with supramolecular systems 康万利,李欣欣,周博博,杨红斌,Bauyrzhan Sarsenbekuly,Saule Aidarova 2020 (7):  439-445.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.002 摘要 ( 314 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF(1127KB) ( 584 )   综述了近年来两亲聚合物超分子体系乳化作用的研究现状,主要包括表面活性剂增效体系、环糊精主客体包合体系以及静电作用体系的乳化特性。并总结了剪切速率和盐对超分子体系乳化性能的影响,以及3种超分子增效体系乳状液的稳定机理。为两亲聚合物超分子体系乳化的应用提供了理论基础和发展方向。 The research status of emulsification by using amphiphilic-polymer supramolecular systems in recent years has been reviewed, mainly including the emulsification characteristics of surfactant synergistic systems, cyclodextrin host-guest inclusion systems and electrostatic interaction systems. The effects of shear rate and salts on the emulsifying properties of supramolecular systems have been summarized, as well as the stability mechanism of the emulsions of three supramolecular synergistic systems. It might provide theoretical basis and development direction for the application of emulsification with amphiphilic-polymer supramolecular systems in the future. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

开发与应用

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脂肪酰胺丙基磷酸酯甜菜碱的合成和性能研究 Study on the synthesis and properties of fatty amido propyl phosphobetaine 刘佳佳,许虎君 2020 (7):  446-451.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.003 摘要 ( 443 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF(1210KB) ( 476 )   以三种脂肪酸酰胺基丙基叔胺和2-羟基-3-氯丙基磷酸酯钠为原料,通过不同的实验方法,合成了三种脂肪酰胺丙基磷酸酯甜菜碱（简称Cn-APA,n=12,14或16）,结果表明加压反应的产率高达95%,相比于常压反应,加压反应能极大地缩短反应时间,提高反应产率,产物结构通过红外图谱和质谱表征。研究了三种产物的表面活性、去污性能、泡沫性能、乳化性能以及抗静电性能。结果表明C12-APA,C14-APA和C16-APA的cmc分别为5.1×10-4,3.4×10-4和8.2×10-5 mol/L,产物拥有良好的发泡稳泡性、乳化性能,对皮脂的去污力良好,且具有优良的抗静电性能。 Three fatty amide propyl phosphobetaines （abbreviated as Cn-APA, where n=12, 14 or 16） were synthesized with three fatty acid amidopropyl tertiary amines and sodium 2-hydroxy-3-chloropropyl phosphate by different experimental methods. The results show that the yield of the pressurized reaction is as high as 95%. Compared with the atmospheric pressure reaction, the pressurized reaction can greatly shorten the reaction time and increase the reaction yield. The structure of the products was characterized by infrared spectroscopy and mass spectroscopy. The surface activity, detergency performance, foam properties, emulsifying properties and antistatic performance of the three products were investigated. The results show that the cmc of C12-APA, C14-APA and C16-APA are 5.1×10-4, 3.4×10-4 and 8.2×10-5 mol/L, respectively, and all products possess good foam stability, good emulsifying properties, good detergency to sebum, and excellent antistatic properties. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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旅大27-2油田稠油油藏采出液流动特性 Flow characteristics of production fluid in heavy oil reservoirs of LD-27-2 oilfield 刘义刚,刘建斌,邹剑,张华,韩晓冬,刘昊 2020 (7):  452-456.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.004 摘要 ( 303 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF(1398KB) ( 583 )   旅大27-2油田稠油油藏采用蒸汽吞吐的方式进行热采开发。在开发过程中,影响采出液黏度变化的主要因素有:稠油族组成、温度、含水率和产液速度。首先通过室内实验研究影响旅大27-2油田稠油黏度变化的影响因素。然后结合采油井井筒数据建立旅大27-2油田稠油油藏流体流动性模型。最后根据蒸汽吞吐参数和生产数据建立稠油油藏井底流温图版以及稠油油藏采出液黏度图版。根据建立的井底流温图版,可以计算出旅大27-2油田稠油蒸汽吞吐不同阶段采出液井底流温和相应的地层温度;结合采出液黏度图版,可以计算出不同流动阶段、蒸汽吞吐不同时期采出液黏度,为油田生产以及措施实施提供指导。 The thermal recovery development method adopted in the heavy oil reservoir of LD-27-2 oilfield is cycle steam stimulation. In the development process, the main factors affecting the viscosity change of the production fluid were heavy oil group composition, temperature, water content and liquid production rate. Firstly, the influencing factors affecting the viscosity change of heavy oil in LD-27-2 oilfield were studied through laboratory experiments. Then, the fluidity model of the heavy oil reservoir in the LD-27-2 oilfield was established in combination with the wellbore data of the production well. Finally, based on the cycle steam stimulation parameters and production data, the bottom-hole flow temperature chart of the heavy oil reservoir and the viscosity chart of theproduction fluid of the heavy oil reservoir were established. According to the established bottom-hole flow temperature chart, the bottom fluid temperature and corresponding formation temperature of the production fluid in different stages of heavy oil steam stimulation in the LD-27-2 oilfield could be calculated. Combined with the viscosity chart of the production fluid, the viscosity of the production fluid in different flow stages and steam stimulation stages could be calculated, which could provide a guidance for oilfield production and implementation of measures. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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PCA算法在面部微生态研究中的应用 Application of PCA algorithm in the research of facial micro-ecology 高学义,王瑜,何聪芬,冯春波,陈圆圆,宋丽雅 2020 (7):  457-463.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.005 摘要 ( 393 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF(1131KB) ( 456 )   利用化学试剂法研究面膜对面部微生态的影响,存在过程繁琐、微生物种类不易确定等缺点,针对此问题,提出一种基于主成分分析（principal component analysis,PCA）的微生态分析方法。首先利用主成分分析对面部微生态数据进行降维处理,累计贡献率选取阈值为95%,确定变换空间下的特征向量以及特征维度k,然后根据特征向量与面部微生态数据的映射关系,此处阈值同样选取95%,确定面部微生态数据中对皮肤状态影响贡献率较大的属性,即改善面部皮肤状态的微生物种类。实验结果表明,该方法有效地克服了传统化学试剂法存在的弊端,能够快速、准确地确定面膜改善皮肤状态的微生物种类,同时也能挖掘不同面膜引起皮肤变化的差异,可为化妆品行业制造对面部皮肤更有益的面膜提供建设性意见。 Some disadvantages such as cumbersome process and difficult microorganism confirmation exist when traditional chemical reagent method is used to study the influence of mask on facial micro-ecology. In order to solve this problem, a method of micro-ecological analysis based on principal component analysis （PCA） was proposed. First, PCA was used to reduce the dimensionality of the facial micro-ecological data which could determine the eigenvector and the dimension k when the cumulative contribution rate was 95%. Then, when the threshold value was also 95%, the mapping relationship between eigenvector and the facial micro-ecological data was used to determine the attributes with large contribution rate in the facial micro-ecological data, namely, the types of microorganisms which could improve the facial skin status. The experimental results showed that the proposed method could effectively overcome the shortcomings of the traditional chemical reagent method, and could be used to quickly and accurately determine the microorganism species which were related to the improvement of the skin status after using the mask. Meanwhile, the differences of the changes of microorganism species caused by different masks were also found, which could provide suggestions for the cosmetics industry to make more beneficial masks for facial skin. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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基于BP神经网络的化妆品色彩配方设计 Color formulation design of cosmetics based on BP neural network 吴少娟,郭清泉 2020 (7):  464-469.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.006 摘要 ( 506 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF(1240KB) ( 352 )   为探讨基于BP神经网络模型预测化妆品色彩配方的可行性,以口红为研究对象,按不同比例色素制备100个样本。采用节点数均为15个的2层隐含层、1层输出层的3层网络结构,通过Matlab R2016a软件构建BP神经网络模型,形成颜色RGB参数与口红色素质量配比间的非线性映射关系。在训练次数为10 000次,学习率为0.5时,各色素误差参数均小于0.6,预测配方成品与真实配方成品无明显色差。基于BP神经网络模型的化妆品配色方法,可以直接给出色彩配方,为配色工程师提供了一种快速简单的参考工具。 To explore the feasibility of prediction of color formulas of cosmetics based on BP neural network model, one hundred lipstick samples of different proportions of pigments were prepared. The BP neural network model was constructed by MATLAB R2016a software, which was composed of two hidden layers with 15 nodes and one output layer with three network structures. The nonlinear mapping relationship between the RGB parameters and the mass ratio of lipstick pigments were formed. When the training times were 10 000 and the learning rate was 0.5, the color error parameters were all less than 0.6, and there was no significant color difference between the predicted formula and the real formula. Hence the color matching method based on BP neural network model could directly generate the color formula and provide a quick and simple reference tool for color engineers. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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防晒化妆品质量变化的衰减全反射傅里叶变换红外光谱研究 Quality variation study of sunscreen cosmetics by attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy 贺鑫鑫,曹进,王钢力 2020 (7):  470-476.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.007 摘要 ( 354 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF(1263KB) ( 302 )   采用衰减全反射傅里叶变化红外光谱（ATR-FTIR）对不同配方组成的防晒化妆品进行了红外光谱鉴别并对其质量变化进行了追踪。结果表明,复配和单一防晒乳液因基质来源相同使得红外谱图的整体性和指纹性较为相似,但对其谱图进行二阶求导可放大各图谱指纹区间的差异用于配方组成差异较小的防晒乳液的鉴别。在6个月的加速实验中,同一乳液样品的红外谱图变化显著,且变化程度随着加速时间的增加而逐渐变大。依据空白乳液在加速过程中的谱图和相关系数变化情况,确定相关系数值0.980 0为此类化妆品红外检测时的整体质量变化临界值,即当红外谱图相关系数降至0.980 0时可认为产品的质量已发生明显变化,达到其有效期终点。由此可知,ATR-FTIR可以很直观地反映防晒乳液在其存储期间整体质量变化情况,是一种快速、科学的考察化妆品整体质量的方法。 Attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy （ATR-FTIR） was used to differentiate sunscreen cosmetics with different formulations and track their quality changes. The results show that the integrity and fingerprint of the infrared spectrum of single and mixed emulsions are similar because of the same matrixes. However, the second-order derivation of the spectrum can magnify the difference between the fingerprint intervals of each spectrum, and can be used to differentiate sunscreen lotions with small differences in composition. During the 6-month accelerated experiment, the infrared spectrum experience obvious changes, with significant reducing or disappearing peak intensity and changing peak positions. Besides, the degree of change gradually increases with the acceleration time. According to the changing conditions of spectrum and correlation coefficient of the blank emulsion during acceleration, the correlation coefficient value of 0.980 0 is determined as the critical value of the overall quality change of such cosmetics during infrared detection. That is, when the correlation coefficient of the spectrum decreases to 0.980 0, the overall quality of the cosmetic has changed and reached the end of its shelf-life. It can be seen that ATR-FTIR is a direct way to reflect the overall quality change of the product during its storage period, and proved to be a rapid and scientific method for the overall quality inspection of cosmetic. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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干洗香波关键性组份的研究 Research on the key components of dry shampoos 李岗,姜春鹏 2020 (7):  477-480.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.008 摘要 ( 394 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF(1124KB) ( 368 )   对干洗香波中2个关键组份改性淀粉和悬浮剂进行研究,结果表明,稻米淀粉、玉米淀粉、木薯淀粉3款淀粉中,稻米淀粉吸油性最好,其吸油性测试值为116.5%,剩余2款改性淀粉吸油性测试值为65%;3款改性淀粉中,玉米淀粉在乙醇体系中抗絮凝效果最好,其次为稻米淀粉、木薯淀粉;干洗香波中常用的3个抗絮凝剂硬脂酸镁、硅酸铝镁、淀粉辛烯基琥珀酸铝中,硬脂酸镁与硅酸铝镁抗絮凝效果最好,其次为淀粉辛烯基琥珀酸铝。 The key components, i.e. modified starches and suspending agents, in dry shampoos were studied. The results showed that among the three starches （rice starch, corn starch and tapioca starch） , rice starch exibited the best oil absorption, and its oil absorption test value was 116.5%, while the oil absorption test values of the other two modified starches were 65%. Among the three modified starches, corn starch showed the best anti-flocculation effect in ethanol, followed by rice starch and tapioca starch. Among the three suspending agents commonly used in dry shampoos such as magnesium stearate, magnesium aluminum silicate and aluminum starch octenyl succinate, magnesium stearate and magnesium aluminum silicate had the best anti-flocculation effect, followed byaluminum starch octenyl succinate. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

专论与综述

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中国女性皮肤暗黄影响因素研究进展 The review of influencing factors of dark yellow skin in Chinese women 朱文驿,查沛娜,邱显荣,孟宏 2020 (7):  481-487.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.009 摘要 ( 649 )   HTML ( 27 )   PDF(839KB) ( 767 )   皮肤暗黄是当今困扰中国女性的皮肤问题之一,也是化妆品和食品行业关注的研发热点之一。通过检索国内外文献,分析了影响皮肤暗黄的因素,包括黑色素的形成与分布、细胞因子对黑色素细胞的影响、血液微循环、氧化蛋白质导致皮肤暗黄的发生机理,并提出皮肤暗黄的解决途径,对美白产品研发具有一定的指导意义。 Dark yellow skin is one of the skin problems that Chinese women concern today and it is also one of the research and development hotspots in the cosmetics and food industry. By searching domestic and foreign literatures, this article reviews the factors that affect the skin darkness and yellowness, including the formation and distribution of melanin, the influence of cytokines on melanocytes, and the mechanism of skin dark yellowness caused by blood microcirculation and oxidized protein. It provides guidance for the research and development of whitening products. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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化妆品中矿物油毒理学及其风险评估研究进展 Research progress on toxicology and risk assessment of mineral oil in cosmetics 黄湘鹭,邢书霞,罗飞亚,孙磊 2020 (7):  488-495.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.010 摘要 ( 697 )   HTML ( 21 )   PDF(812KB) ( 768 )   矿物油是石油原油和/或煤、天然气或生物质液化后合成产品经过提炼形成的一类烃类混合物,主要分为饱和烃类矿物油（mineral oil saturated hydrocarbons, MOSH）和芳香烃类矿物油（mineral oil aromatic hydrocarbons, MOAH）,是一种常用的化妆品原料,其安全风险已经得到了广泛的关注。综述了化妆品中矿物油的分类、应用情况、毒理学及风险评估情况等,为后续开展相关研究提供参考,并建议持续跟踪其他国家或地区对化妆品中矿物油的安全评估及法规制定情况,监测我国市场上使用矿物油原料的化妆品产品质量状况,必要时开展管理限值制修订工作,以确保消费者的化妆品使用安全。 Mineral oil is a kind of hydrocarbon mixture formed by refining after liquefaction of petroleum crude oil and/or coal, natural gas or biomass products, which is divided into two main types, mineral oil saturated hydrocarbons （MOSH） and mineral oil aromatic hydrocarbons （MOAH） . Mineral oil is a common cosmetic raw material and its safety risk has been widely concerned. The classification, application, toxicology and risk assessment of mineral oils in cosmetics were briefly reviewed, so as to provide reference for the follow-up research. It was also suggested to continuously track the safety assessment and legislation formulation of mineral oil in cosmetics in other countries or regions, monitor the quality of cosmetics products using mineral oil raw materials in the market of China, and carry out the revision of management limits when necessary to ensure the safety of consumer cosmetics. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

分析与检测

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超高效液相色谱串联质谱法同时测定化妆品中94种非法添加化合物 Simultaneous determination of 94 kinds of illegally added compounds in cosmetics by ultra performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry 王同珍,郑宇丽,梁海云,柯丽群,曹维强 2020 (7):  496-503.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.011 摘要 ( 381 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF(800KB) ( 345 )   建立了一种超高效液相色谱串联质谱法同时测定化妆品中94种非法添加物的方法。化妆品试样采用70%乙腈水超声提取,以0.1%甲酸乙腈溶液-0.1%甲酸水溶液、5 mmol/L乙酸铵水溶液作为流动相,经CORTECS?UPLC?C18色谱柱（2.1 mm×100 mm,1.6 μm）进行分离,通过超高效液相色谱串联质谱测定。结果表明,方法线性良好,相关系数均大于0.995,方法定量限为0.025~0.1 μg/g,添加平均回收率为51.1%~129.3%,相对标准偏差为1.8%~19.0%。 A method for simultaneous determination of 94 kinds of illegally added compounds in cosmetics by ultra performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry （UPLC-MS/MS） was established. The cosmetic samples were extracted with the mixed solvent of 70% acetonitrile-water under ultrasonic assistance. Then the components in the purified extract were separated by CORTECS?UPLC?C18 column （2.1 mm×100 mm, 1.6 μm） with 0.1% formic acid/acetonitrile solution-0.1% formic acid and 5 mmol/L ammonium acetate as mobile phase, and then detected by UPLC-MS/MS. The method showed that good linearity was obtained with correlation coefficients higher than 0.995. The range of the limit of quantitation for this method was 0.025-0.1 μg/g. The spiked recovery was in the range of 51.1%-129.3%, and the RSD was 1.8%-19.0%. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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浊点萃取-高效液相色谱法检测化妆品中4种合成酚类抗氧化剂 Determination of four synthetic phenolic antioxidants in cosmetics by cloud point extraction-high performance liquid chromatography 陈邈,李黎仙,孔祥烨,高鹰,杨亚玲 2020 (7):  504-508.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.07.012 摘要 ( 437 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF(1144KB) ( 568 )   建立了化妆品中没食子酸丙酯、特丁基对苯二酚、叔丁基羟基茴香醚、2,6-二叔丁基-4-甲基苯酚4种合成酚类抗氧化剂含量检测的高效液相色谱分析方法。样品经超声辅助-浊点萃取,PEG-12二甲基硅氧烷（DC-193）为萃取剂,采用脂肪酸降低DC-193的浊点,壬酸体积分数为10%时最优（在浊点、相分离速度和萃取率等方面）。使用响应面法优化后,浊点萃取的较优条件为:φ （DC-193） =2.5%,超声时间30 min,平衡温度67 ℃,平衡时间57 min。结果表明,4种抗氧化剂的线性相关系数均大于0.99,低、中、高3种加标水平下的加标回收率为84%~91%,相对标准偏差为1.2%~2.3%。 A high performance liquid chromatography （HPLC） method was developed for the simultaneous determination of 4 synthetic phenolic antioxidants （SPAs） in cosmetics, including propyl gallate, tertiary butyl hydroquinone, butylated hydroxyanisole, and butylated hydroxytoluene. The samples were extracted by ultrasound-assisted cloud point extraction （CPE） with PEG-12 dimethylsiloxane （DC-193） as the extraction solvent. Fatty acid was added to decrease the cloud point of DC-193. When the volume fraction of nonanoic acid was 10%, it was the best in terms of cloud point, phase separation speed and extraction rate. Then multi-response surface method was used to optimize CPE. The optimum conditions of CPE were: φ （DC-193） of 2.5%, ultrasound time of 30 min, equilibrium temperature at 67 ℃, and equilibrium time of 57 min. The external standard method was used for quantification. The results show that the linear correlation coefficients of the 4 SPAs were all greater than 0.99. The average recoveries at three spiked levels were in the range of 84%-91% with RSDs of 1.2%-2.3%. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标