新型乳化体系及其在化妆品中的应用（Ⅱ）—双凝胶体系

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.003

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

双凝胶体系是一种在不添加（或少量添加）表面活性剂的情况下，将一种液体以凝胶的形式（如油凝胶或水凝胶）分散在另一种与其不相容的凝胶（如水凝胶或油凝胶）中的特殊乳化体系。该体系兼具水凝胶和油凝胶的双重优势，不仅能同时递送亲水性和亲油性物质，而且展现出比单一凝胶更优异的性能。加之体系中不含（或含少量）表面活性剂，不会引起对敏感肌肤的刺激和脱水问题，使其在化妆品领域具有广阔的应用前景。本文首先介绍了凝胶及双凝胶体系；总结了影响双凝胶体系性质的因素，包括凝胶剂、油/水凝胶比例、油脂性质以及制备工艺等；归纳了双凝胶产品的皮肤安全性、稳定性、锁水保湿性、缓释性及肤感等。在此基础上，阐述了双凝胶体系在化妆品领域应用的研究进展。最后指出了目前双凝胶体系在化妆品领域应用中所面临的问题，并对后续亟待解决的问题提出了个人看法，旨在为性能优异的双凝胶产品的开发及应用提供基础信息，为双凝胶体系的发展方向提供参考。

关键词: 双凝胶体系, 油凝剂, 水凝胶, 化妆品

Abstract:

Bigel system is a unique emulsion system, in which a liquid in gel form （organogel or hydrogel） is dispersed in another incompatible gel （hydrogel or organogel） without adding （or a small amount of） surfactant. Bigel system has the dual advantages of both hydrogel and organogel, which can not only deliver hydrophilic and lipophilic active agents simultaneously, but also show better performance than either of the single gel. In addition, the bigel system does not contain （or a small amount of） surfactant, which will not cause the stimulation and dehydration of sensitive skin. The bigel system has a broad application prospect in the field of cosmetics, biomedicine, etc. In this paper, the gel and bigel systems are firstly introduced and then the factors of affecting the properties of bigel system including gel agent, the ratio of organogel to hydrogel, oil properties and preparation process, etc. are summarized. Furthermore, the skin safety, stability, moisture retention, sustained-release property and skin sense of bigel system are expatiated. On this basis, the study on the application of bigel system in cosmetics is expounded. Finally, the limitations of the application of bigel system in the field of cosmetics are put forward and personal views on the problems to be solved are proposed, which can provide not only basic information for the development and application of bigel products with excellent performance but also reference for the development direction of bigel system.

Key words: bigel system, organogel, hydrogel, cosmetics

中图分类号:

TQ658

牛文霞, 唐嘉悦, 尚亚卓. 新型乳化体系及其在化妆品中的应用（Ⅱ）—双凝胶体系[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2023, 53(10): 1132-1139.

Niu Wenxia, Tang Jiayue, Shang Yazhuo. New emulsion system and its application in cosmetics （II）Bigel system[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(10): 1132-1139.

图/表 4

参考文献 42

[1]	Xu Bin, Yin Qingchun, Chen Yan, et al. Study on the interactions between surfactants and skin[J]. Detergent & Cosmetics, 2017, 40 (2) : 55-57.
[2]	Wang Haiyan. Foam morphology of a soap-based skin cleaner and its effect on skin permeability[J]. China Cleaning Industry, 2014 (8) : 63-67.
[3]	Shakeel A, Lupi F R, Gabriele D, et al. Bigels: A unique class of materials for drug delivery applications[J]. Soft Materials, 2018, 16 (2) : 77-93. doi: 10.1080/1539445X.2018.1424638
[4]	Xing Yuhang. Fabrication of mangiferin-loaded gel system and preliminary study on its anti-psoriatic effect[D]. Wuhan: Huazhong Agricultural University, 2022.
[5]	Kunal P, Vinay K S, Arfat A, et al. Hydrogel-based controlled release formulations: designing considerations, characterization techniques and applications[J]. Polymer-Plastics Technology and Engineering, 2013, 52 (14) : 1391-1422. doi: 10.1080/03602559.2013.823996
[6]	Khurram R, Mohd C I M A, Mohd H Z. Development and physical characterization of polymer-fish oil bigel (hydrogel/oleogel) system as a transdermal drug delivery vehicle[J]. Journal of Oleo Science, 2014, 63 (10) : 961-970. pmid: 25252741
[7]	Yuan Limin, Wu Yuejie, Qin Yan, et al. Recent advances in the preparation, characterization and applications of locust bean gum-based films[J]. Journal of Renewable Materials, 2020, 8 (12) : 1565-1579. doi: 10.32604/jrm.2020.014562
[8]	Hu Qihua, Ma Chuanguo, Chen Xiaowei, et al. Advance in ethyl cellulose-based organogel and its application in foods[J]. China Oils and Fats, 2020, 45 (1) : 115-120.
[9]	Laredo T, Barbut S, Marangoni A G. Molecular interactions of polymer oleogelation[J]. Soft Matter, 2011, 7 (6) : 2734-2743. doi: 10.1039/c0sm00885k
[10]	Alsaab H, Bonam S P, Bahl D, et al. Organogels in drug delivery: a special emphasis on pluronic lecithin organogels[J]. Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 2016, 19 (2) : 252-273. doi: 10.18433/jpps.v19i2.27641 pmid: 27518174
[11]	Peppas N A, Bures P, Leobandung W, et al. Hydrogels in pharmaceutical formulations[J]. European Journal of Pharmaceutics and Biopharmaceutics, 2000, 50: 27-46. doi: 10.1016/s0939-6411(00)00090-4 pmid: 10840191
[12]	Gallardo V, Munoz M, Ruiz M A. Formulations of hydrogels and lipogels with vitamin e[J]. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2005, 4: 187-192. pmid: 17129265
[13]	Almeida I F, Fernandes A R, Fernandes L, et al. Moisturizing effect of oleogel/hydrogel mixtures[J]. Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, 2008, 13: 487-494. doi: 10.1080/10837450802282447 pmid: 18720247
[14]	Francesca R L, Ahmad S, Valeria G, et al. A rheological and microstructural characterisation of bigels for cosmetic and pharmaceutical uses[J]. Materials Science & Engineering C, 2016, 69: 358-365.
[15]	Cloé L E, Plamen K, V G R. Organogels, promising drug delivery systems: an update of state-of-the-art and recent applications[J]. Journal of Controlled Release, 2018, 271: 1-20. doi: S0168-3659(17)31083-0 pmid: 29269143
[16]	Beauty B, Sai S S, Vinay K S, et al. Mechanical properties and delivery of drug/probiotics from starch and non-starch based novel bigels: a comparative study[J]. Starch-Starke, 2014, 66 (9-10) : 865-879. doi: 10.1002/star.v66.9-10
[17]	Sarika P K, Preeti M P, Suraj K N, et al. Novel agar-stearyl alcohol oleogel-based bigels as structured delivery vehicles[J]. International Journal of Polymeric Materials and Polymeric Biomaterials, 2017, 66 (13) : 669-678. doi: 10.1080/00914037.2016.1252362
[18]	Martinez R M, Magalhães W V, Sufi B D S, et al. Vitamin e-loaded bigels and emulsions: physicochemical characterization and potential biological application[J]. Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces, 2021, 201: 111651. doi: 10.1016/j.colsurfb.2021.111651
[19]	Lupi F R, Gentile L, Gabriele D, et al. Olive oil and hyperthermal water bigels for cosmetic uses[J]. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 2015, 459: 70-78. doi: S0021-9797(15)30108-9 pmid: 26263497
[20]	Di M L, Fiocco D, Varrato F, et al. Aggregation dynamics, structure, and mechanical properties of bigels[J]. Soft Matter, 2014, 10 (20) : 3633-3648. doi: 10.1039/c3sm52558a pmid: 24668413
[21]	Wakhet S, Singh V K, Sahoo S, et al. Characterization of gelatin-agar based phase separated hydrogel, emulgel and bigel: a comparative study[J]. Journal of Materials Science-Materials in Medicine, 2015, 26 (2) : 118. doi: 10.1007/s10856-015-5434-2
[22]	Sahoo S, Singh V K, Biswal D, et al. Development of ionic and non-ionic natural gum-based bigels: prospects for drug delivery application[J]. Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 2015, 132 (38) : 42561.
[23]	Mazurkeviciute A, Ramanauskiene K, Ivaskiene M, et al. Topical antifungal bigels: Formulation, characterization and evaluation[J]. Acta Pharmaceutica, 2018, 68 (2) : 223-233. doi: 10.2478/acph-2018-0014
[24]	Almeida I F, Fernandes A R, Fernandes L, et al. Moisturizing effect of oleogel/hydrogel mixtures[J]. Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, 2008, 13 (6) : 487-494. doi: 10.1080/10837450802282447 pmid: 18720247
[25]	Beauty B, Sai S S, Kunal P, et al. Sunflower oil and protein-based novel bigels as matrices for drug delivery applications-characterization and in vitro antimicrobial efficiency[J]. Polymer-Plastics Technology and Engineering, 2015, 54 (8) : 837-850. doi: 10.1080/03602559.2014.974268
[26]	Behera B, Dey S, Sharma V, et al. Rheological and viscoelastic properties of novel sunflower oil-span 40-biopolymer-based bigels and their role as a functional material in the delivery of antimicrobial agents[J]. Advances in Polymer Technology, 2015, 34 (2) : 21488.
[27]	Behera B, Singh V K, Kulanthaivel S, et al. Physical and mechanical properties of sunflower oil and synthetic polymers based bigels for the delivery of nitroimidazole antibiotic-a therapeutic approach for controlled drug delivery[J]. European Polymer Journal, 2015, 64: 253-264. doi: 10.1016/j.eurpolymj.2015.01.018
[28]	Shi Menglin, Liu Lijia, Shang Yazhuo, et al. Preparation and properties of hydrophobically modified hyaluronic acid[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2020, 50 (11) : 776-782.
[29]	Fasolin L H, Martins A J, Cerqueira M A, et al. Modulating process parameters to change physical properties of bigels for food applications[J]. Food Structure, 2021, 28: 100-173.
[30]	Zheng Hongxia, Mao Like, Cui Mengnan, et al. Development of food-grade bigels based on kappa-carrageenan hydrogel and monoglyceride oleogels as carriers for beta-carotene: Roles of oleogel fraction[J]. Food Hydrocolloids, 2020, 105: 105855. doi: 10.1016/j.foodhyd.2020.105855
[31]	Vinay K S, Indranil B, Tarun A, et al. Guar gum and sesame oil based novel bigels for controlled drug delivery[J]. Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces, 2014, 123: 582-592. doi: 10.1016/j.colsurfb.2014.09.056
[32]	Li Ruyi, Chen Mianhong, Zeng Fanke, et al. Bigel composition and their preparation method: CN115429703A[P]. 2022-12-06.
[33]	Andonova V, Peneva P, Georgiev G S, et al. Ketoprofen-loaded polymer carriers in bigel formulation: an approach to enhancing drug photostability in topical application forms[J]. International Journal of Nanomedicine, 2017, 12: 6221-6238. doi: 10.2147/IJN.S140934 pmid: 28894363
[34]	Patel A R, Mankoč B, Bin Sintang M D, et al. Fumed silica-based organogels and ‘aqueous-organic’ bigels[J]. RSC Advances, 2015, 5 (13) : 9703-9708. doi: 10.1039/C4RA15437A
[35]	Artur J M, Pedro S, Filipe M, et al. Hybrid gels: Influence of oleogel/hydrogel ratio on rheological and textural properties[J]. Food Research International, 2018, 116: 1298-1305. doi: 10.1016/j.foodres.2018.10.019
[36]	Yang Jingyi, Zheng Hongxia, Gao Yanxiang, et al. Preparation and physicochemical properties of bigel based on alginate hydrogel and glycerin monostearate oleogel[J]. Journal of Chinese Institute of Food Science and Technology, 2022, 22 (10) : 97-107.
[37]	Zhu Qiaomei, Gao Jianbiao, Han Lijun, et al. Development and characterization of novel bigels based on monoglyceride-beeswax oleogel and high acyl gellan gum hydrogel for lycopene delivery[J]. Food Chemistry, 2021, 365: 130419. doi: 10.1016/j.foodchem.2021.130419
[38]	Gao Mengge. The properties of Bi-gels and its application in cosmetics[D]. Shanghai: East China University of Science and Technology, 2018.
[39]	Huang Huilin. Construction and application of water-in-oil diglycerideammonium glycyrrhizate bigels system[D]. Shanghai: East China University of Science and Technology, 2022.
[40]	Foshan Yunshang Cosmetics Co., LTD. A high SPF sunscreen of a bigel system: CN108464948A[P]. 2018-08-31.
[41]	Ma Chuanguo, Li Sheng, Zheng Shumin. Preparation of a bigel cosmetic based on organogels and hydrogels: CN106937917A[P]. 2017-07-11.
[42]	Huang Yuancheng, Deng Jianming, Liu Zeyun. A bigel system of discharge makeup gel cosmetics for eye and lip and preparation method: CN110215413A[P]. 2019-09-10.