板栗壳色素在染发剂中的应用

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.001

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

采用急性经皮毒性试验和急性眼刺激/腐蚀性试验对所制备的板栗壳色素染发剂进行安全性评价；通过单因素实验优化了板栗壳色素的染发工艺，并进一步通过色差仪、质构仪、扫描电镜（SEM）和差式扫描量热仪（DSC）对其染后头发的褪色现象（洗涤和紫外辐照褪色）进行了分析。结果表明，板栗壳色素制成的染发剂实际无毒、无刺激。板栗壳色素优化后的较佳染发工艺条件为：板栗壳色素质量浓度0.15 g/mL，发色剂pH 8.5，FeCl₃添加量10%（质量分数），采用先媒后染的染色方式在45 ℃下进行染色。染后头发经洗涤及UVA和UVB照射后色差（dE^*）最大分别为6.348，3.340和3.280，褪色不明显。经洗涤及紫外线照射后，头发表面毛鳞片未存在明显的翘起现象。随洗涤温度的升高，头发α-角蛋白含量逐渐降低；而紫外线照射对染后头发α-角蛋白损伤较小。褪色现象均在可接受范围内，持久性可以达到要求。

关键词: 板栗壳色素, 毒性评价, 染发工艺, 褪色现象

Abstract:

The toxicity evaluation of the prepared chestnut shell pigment hair dye was conducted by using acute percutaneous toxicity test and acute eye irritation/corrosion test in this study. The hair dyeing process of the chestnut shell pigments was optimized by single-factor experiments and was further analyzed for fading phenomena （washing and UV irradiation fading） of the dyed hair by chromatography, texturizing, scanning electron microscopy （SEM） and differential scanning calorimetry （DSC）. The results indicate that hair dyes made from chestnut shell pigments are practically non-toxic and non-irritating. The hair dyeing conditions after optimization of the chestnut shell pigment are as follow: chestnut shell pigment concentration of 0.15 g/mL, colorants pH of 8.5, FeCl₃ addition amount of 10%, dyeing temperature of 45 ℃, and dyeing method of pre-mordant method. The maximum dE^* value of the dyed hair after washing is only 6.348, and the maximum dE^* values after UV （UVA and UVB） irradiation are 3.340 and 3.280, with no significant change in fading or in the tensile strength of the hair. SEM results show that there is no obvious warping of hair surface scales after washing and UV irradiation of the dyed hair, so the dye is not easily washed off from the hair. DSC results indicate that the enthalpy of denaturation of the dyed hair decrease gradually with the increase of washing temperature, so the increase of temperature will reduce the α-keratin content of the dyed hair. And the enthalpy of denaturation of the dyed hair after UV irradiation is not significantly different from that of the hair without UV irradiation, indicating that UV irradiation damage to α-keratin in dyed hair is less. This paper presents a comprehensive evaluation of the hair-dyeing performance of chestnut shell pigments, aiming to provide a corresponding theoretical basis and technical support for the high-value application of chestnut shell waste, which is more conducive to guide and promote the development of chestnut industry.

Key words: chestnut shell pigment, toxicity evaluation, hair dyeing process, color fading phenomenon

中图分类号:

TQ658

朱婷, 沈齐若男, 徐玉娟, 李春美. 板栗壳色素在染发剂中的应用[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2023, 53(5): 493-502.

Zhu Ting, Shen Qiruonan, Xu Yujuan, Li Chunmei. Application of chestnut shell pigment in hair dyes[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(5): 493-502.

图/表 11

参考文献 21

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Type	Name	w/%	Condition
Softener （A）	L-cysteine	7	pH=8.5 t=15 min T=25 ℃
	Cocoamidopropyl Betaine	4
	Hydroxyethyl Cellulose	1
	Penetrating agent JFC	0.5
	Distilled water	Remaining quantity
Mordant （B）	FeCl₃	10	pH=3.5 t=30 min T=25 ℃
	Hydroxyethyl Cellulose	1
	Hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium Bromide	0.5
	Distilled water	Remaining quantity
Colorant （C）	Chestnut shell pigment powder	12.9	pH=8.5 t=30 min T=45 ℃
	Carboxymethyl cellulose	1
	Distilled water	Remaining quantity

Dyeing method	L^*	a^*	b^*	c^*	h^*	抗拉强度/g
Bleached hair	72.96±0.59^a	4.17±0.59^a	27.90±1.66^a	28.22±1.59^a	81.45°±1.58°^a	79.78±5.39^a
Pre-mordanting	23.07±2.26^b	1.55±0.27^b	4.80±0.64^b	5.06±0.56^b	71.76°±4.65°^b	78.57±3.63^ab
Post-mordanting	40.77±0.90^c	0.55±0.23^c	12.05±0.63^c	12.07±0.63^c	87.34°±1.11°^c	75.22±3.58^b
Simultaneous mordanting	54.07±1.08^d	2.73±0.21^d	6.14±0.46^d	6.73±0.49^d	65.73°±2.62°^d	74.81±3.27^b

ρ/（g/mL）	L^*	a^*	b^*	c^*	h^*	Tensile strength/g
0.05	31.42±1.56^a	1.59±0.15^a	6.99±0.65^a	7.14±0.62^c	77.02°±1.84°^d	74.82±2.43^a
0.10	31.08±1.48^a	2.17±0.15^b	6.12±0.51^b	7.30±0.34^c	70.39°±1.73°^c	73.56±3.42^a
0.15	23.56±1.05^b	1.60±0.12^a	4.11±0.35^c	4.41±0.34^a	68.64°±1.87°^bc	74.70±3.74^a
0.20	24.98±2.34^bc	2.68±0.16^c	4.95±0.43^d	5.63±0.34^b	61.42°±3.23°^a	74.87±3.00^a
0.30	25.23±1.41^c	2.82±0.19^d	6.56±0.46^ab	7.14±0.43^c	66.67°±1.99°^b	74.75±2.39^a

Dying temperature/°C	L^*	a^*	b^*	c^*	h^*	Tensile strength/g
25	37.38±0.74^a	0.79±0.046^a	7.33±0.34^c	7.37±0.34^d	83.86°±0.42°^d	76.78±2.94^a
35	29.46±1.67^b	1.25±0.07^b	4.40±0.32^b	4.57±0.31^b	74.05°±1.26°^c	68.88±2.38^b
45	25.90±1.65^c	2.15±0.16^c	4.48±0.24^b	4.97±0.23^c	64.33°±0.17°^b	82.08±2.11^c
55	25.82±1.35^c	2.32±0.18^d	3.04±0.19^a	3.82±0.17^a	52.65°±3.01°^a	83.87±2.89^c

FeCl₃addition/%	L^*	a^*	b^*	c^*	h^*	Tensile strength/g
2	31.41±1.04^a	2.23±0.18^c	4.81±0.29^b	5.30±0.29^b	65.12°±2.03°^b	74.80±1.98^a
4	26.97±0.40^b	1.43±0.13^b	4.26±0.25^a	4.50±0.23^a	71.40°±2.13°^c	72.98±1.43^a
6	24.66±0.56^c	1.23±0.08^a	5.96±0.37^c	6.09±0.36^c	78.27°±1.12°^d	73.81±2.27^a
8	20.78±0.64^d	2.29±0.18^c	6.53±0.28^d	6.92±0.27^d	70.68°±1.67°^c	80.59±1.97^b
10	19.18±0.86^e	3.05±0.24^d	5.98±0.36^c	6.72±0.39^d	62.96°±1.55°^a	79.25±2.31^b