头发与头皮护理的科学基础（Ⅴ）——头发光老化及其防护

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.05.002

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

皮肤防晒的概念已经深入消费者的内心，但头发的防晒对中国消费者来说仍是一个较新的概念。与皮肤一样，日常生活中的紫外线和可见光等辐射也会对头发造成损伤，在分子层面体现为头发中物质的降解（例如：蛋白质、氨基酸，脂质，黑色素等）。头发损伤会使其表观性质出现变化，导致头发出现梳理性下降、粗糙度和摩擦力上升、吸水性和溶胀增加、表面亲水性增强、力学性能下降、光泽度下降等不利现象。因此在护发产品中增加护理成分来防止光老化是十分必要的。本文分析了头发光老化的过程和其中的物质变化，并对光老化引起的头发问题及针对此问题的防护产品进行介绍。

关键词: 光老化, 紫外线, 护发

Abstract:

The concept of skin sunscreen has been deeply embedded in the hearts of consumers, but hair sunscreen is still a relatively new concept for Chinese consumers. Just like skin, UV and visible light radiation in daily life will also cause damage to hair, which is reflected in the degradation of hair substances （such as proteins, amino acids, lipids, melanin, etc.） at the molecular level. Hair damage will cause changes in its apparent properties, resulting in decreased hair grooming, increased roughness and friction, increased water absorption and swelling, enhanced surface hydrophilicity, decreased mechanical properties, decreased glossiness and other adverse phenomena. Therefore, it is very necessary to add functional ingredients in hair care products to prevent photoaging. In this paper, the process of hair photoaging and its substance changes are analyzed, and the hair problems caused by photoaging and the protective products for this problem are introduced.

Key words: photoaging, ultraviolet, hair care

中图分类号:

TQ658

范加谊, 马铃, 陈殿松, 常宽, 王靖. 头发与头皮护理的科学基础（Ⅴ）——头发光老化及其防护[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2023, 53(5): 503-510.

Fan Jiayi, Ma Ling, Chen Timson, Chang Kuan, Wang Jing. Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care （Ⅴ）Hair photoaging and its protection[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(5): 503-510.

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