日用化学工业(中英文) ›› 2023, Vol. 53 ›› Issue (7): 748-756.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.07.003
收稿日期:
2023-06-29
出版日期:
2023-07-22
发布日期:
2023-07-25
基金资助:
Fang Chengge1,Ma Ling2,Chen Timson2,Chang Kuan1,*(),Wang Jing1,*(
)
Received:
2023-06-29
Online:
2023-07-22
Published:
2023-07-25
Contact:
*Tel.: +86-18810876236, E-mail: changkuan@jiangnan.edu.cn (Kuan Chang); jingwang@jiangnan.edu.cn (Jing Wang).
摘要:
随着头发灰白年轻化的趋势发展,头发颜色日益成为大众关注的重点。然而头发灰白的确切原因目前还不清楚,在此,本讲座从黑色素(melanin)的合成路径出发,回顾了以往关于头发灰白机制的研究,整理了目前较被认同的两种途径。同时,介绍了天然产物在“白转黑”中的应用潜力,并列举了几种天然黑色物质,如氧化石墨烯、聚多巴胺等在染黑发方面的研究,希望为无毒无危害的染黑剂和促黑产品的开发和应用提供参考。
中图分类号:
方承格, 马玲, 陈殿松, 常宽, 王靖. 头发与头皮护理的科学基础(Ⅶ)——头发灰白的原因及变黑的方法[J]. 日用化学工业(中英文), 2023, 53(7): 748-756.
Fang Chengge, Ma Ling, Chen Timson, Chang Kuan, Wang Jing. Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care (Ⅶ) The causes of hair graying and the methods to make white hair turn black[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(7): 748-756.
[1] |
Tinoco A, Martins M, Cavaco-Paulo A, et al. Biotechnology of functional proteins and peptides for hair cosmetic formulations[J]. Trends in Biotechnology, 2022, 40 (5) : 591-605.
doi: 10.1016/j.tibtech.2021.09.010 |
[2] |
Ghiani S, Baroni S, Burgio D, et al. Characterization of human hair melanin and its degradation products by means of magnetic resonance techniques[J]. Magnetic Resonance in Chemistry, 2008, 46 (5) : 471-479.
doi: 10.1002/mrc.2202 pmid: 18288677 |
[3] |
Tobin D J, Paus R. Graying: gerontobiology of the hair follicle pigmentary unit[J]. Experiment Gerontology, 2001, 36 (1) : 29-54.
doi: 10.1016/S0531-5565(00)00210-2 |
[4] | Wu Gemin, Peng Guangxu. Research progress in animal melanin[J]. Gansu Animal Husbandry and Veterinary Medicine, 2015, 35 (1) : 39-41. |
[5] |
Parvez S, Kang M, Chung H S, et al. Survey and mechanism of skin depigmenting and lightening agents[J]. Phytotherapy Research, 2006, 20 (11) : 921-934.
doi: 10.1002/ptr.1954 pmid: 16841367 |
[6] |
Chang Tesheng. Natural melanogenesis inhibitors acting through the down-regulation of yrosinase activity[J]. Materials, 2012, 5 (9) : 1661-1685.
doi: 10.3390/ma5091661 |
[7] |
Panhard S, Lozano I, Loussouarn G. Greying of the human hair: a worldwide survey, revisiting the ‘50’ rule of thumb[J]. British Journal of Dermatology, 2012, 167 (4) : 865-873.
doi: 10.1111/bjd.2012.167.issue-4 |
[8] |
Doubaj Y, De Sandre-Giovannoli A, Vera E V, et al. An inherited LMNA gene mutation in atypical Progeria syndrome[J]. American Journal of Medical Genetics Part A, 2012, 158A (11) : 2881-2887.
doi: 10.1002/ajmg.a.35557 pmid: 22991222 |
[9] |
Di Giacomo T B, Valente N Y, Nico M M. Chloroquine-induced hair depigmentation[J]. Lupus, 2009, 18 (3) : 264-266.
doi: 10.1177/0961203308097473 pmid: 19213866 |
[10] |
Donovan J C, Price V H. Chloroquine-induced hair hypopigmentation[J]. New England Journal of Medicine, 2010, 363 (4) : 372-372.
doi: 10.1056/NEJMicm0912609 |
[11] |
Chakrabarty S, Krishnappa P G, et al. Factors associated with premature hair graying in a young an population[J]. International Journal of Trichology, 2016, 8 (1) : 11-14.
doi: 10.4103/0974-7753.179384 pmid: 27127369 |
[12] | Jo S K, Lee J Y, Lee Y, et al. Three streams for the mechanism of hair graying[J]. Journal of Anatomy, 2020, 236: 148. |
[13] |
Seiberg M. Age-induced hair greying-the multiple effects of oxidative stress[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2013, 35 (6) : 532-538.
doi: 10.1111/ics.12090 pmid: 24033376 |
[14] |
Commo S, Gaillard O, Bernard B A. Human hair greying is linked to a specific depletion of hair follicle melanocytes affecting both the bulb and the outer root sheath[J]. British Journal of Dermatology, 2004, 150 (3) : 435-443.
doi: 10.1046/j.1365-2133.2004.05787.x pmid: 15030325 |
[15] |
Arck P C, Overall R, Spatz K, et al. Towards a “free radical theory of graying”: melanocyte apoptosis in the aging human hair follicle is an indicator of oxidative stress induced tissue damage[J]. Faseb Journal, 2006, 20 (9) : 1567-1569.
doi: 10.1096/fsb2.v20.9 |
[16] |
Wood J M, Decker H, Hartmann H, et al. Senile hair graying: H2O2-mediated oxidative stress affects human hair color by blunting methionine sulfoxide repair[J]. Faseb Journal, 2009, 23 (7) : 2065-2075.
doi: 10.1096/fj.08-125435 pmid: 19237503 |
[17] |
Slominski A, Wortsman J, Plonka P M, et al. Hair follicle pigmentation[J]. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2005, 124: 13-21.
pmid: 15654948 |
[18] |
Nishimura E K, Granter S R, Fisher D E. Mechanisms of hair graying: incomplete melanocyte stem cell maintenance in the niche[J]. Science, 2005, 307 (5710) : 720-724.
doi: 10.1126/science.1099593 pmid: 15618488 |
[19] |
Nishimura E K, Suzuki M, Igras V, et al. Key roles for transforming growth factor beta in melanocyte stem cell maintenance[J]. Cell Stem Cell, 2010, 6 (2) : 130-140.
doi: 10.1016/j.stem.2009.12.010 pmid: 20144786 |
[20] | Nishimura E K. Melanocyte stem cells: a melanocyte reservoir in hair follicles for hair and skin pigmentation[J]. Pigment Cell & Melanoma Research, 2011, 24 (3) : 401-410. |
[21] |
Inomata K, Aoto T, Binh N T, et al. Genotoxic stress abrogates renewal of melanocyte stem cells by triggering their differentiation[J]. Cell, 2009, 137 (6) : 1088-1099.
doi: 10.1016/j.cell.2009.03.037 pmid: 19524511 |
[22] |
Valluet A, Druillennec S, Barbotin C, et al. B-Raf and C-Raf are required for melanocyte stem cell self-maintenance[J]. Cell Reports, 2012, 2 (4) : 774-780.
doi: 10.1016/j.celrep.2012.08.020 pmid: 23022482 |
[23] |
Choi H I, Choi G I, Kim E K, et al. Hair greying is associated with active hair growth[J]. British Journal of Dermatology, 2011, 165 (6) : 1183-1189.
doi: 10.1111/bjd.2011.165.issue-6 |
[24] |
Sosted H, Johansen J D, Andersen K E, et al. Severe allergic hair dye reactions in 8 children[J]. Contact Dermatitis, 2006, 54 (2) : 87-91.
pmid: 16487280 |
[25] | Kim K H, Kabir E, Jahan S A. The use of personal hair dye and its implications for human health[J]. Environment International, 2016, 89: 222-227. |
[26] | Tan Y F, Koay Y S, Zulkifli R M, et al. In Vitro hair growth and hair tanning activities of mangosteen pericarp extract on hair dermal papilla cells[J]. Journal of Herbal Medicine, 2002, 36. |
[27] |
Taguchi N, Hata T, Kamiya E, et al. Reduction in human hair graying by sterubin, an active flavonoid of Eriodictyon angustifolium[J]. Journal of dermatological science, 2019, 92 (3) : 286-289.
doi: 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2018.11.002 |
[28] |
Horibe I, Satoh Y, Shiota Y, et al. Induction of melanogenesis by 4’-O-methylated flavonoids n B16F10 melanoma cells[J]. Journal of Natural Medicines, 2012, 67 (4) : 705-710.
doi: 10.1007/s11418-012-0727-y |
[29] | Yu L, Tang H, Chen H Y, et al. Pharmacodynamic evaluation and mechanism of methoxyflavone to promote melanin production in zebrafish[J]. Chinese Traditional and Herbal Drugs, 2020, 51 (23) : 6023-6034. |
[30] |
Cook L S, Malone K E, Daling J R, et al. Hair product use and the risk of breast cancer in young women[J]. Cancer Causes & Control, 1999, 10 (6) : 551-559.
doi: 10.1023/A:1008903126798 |
[31] |
Kim J, Cote L J, Huang J. Two dimensional soft material: new faces of graphene oxide[J]. Accounts of Chemical Research, 2012, 45 (8) : 1356-1364.
doi: 10.1021/ar300047s pmid: 22663082 |
[32] |
Luo C, Zhou L Y, Chiou K, et al. Multifunctional graphene hair dye[J]. Chem., 2018, 4 (4) : 784-794.
doi: 10.1016/j.chempr.2018.02.021 |
[33] |
Au K M, Lu Z H, Matcher S J, et al. Polypyrrole nanoparticles: a potential optical coherence omography contrast agent for cancer imaging[J]. Advanced Materials, 2011, 23 (48) : 5792.
doi: 10.1002/adma.v23.48 |
[34] |
Guo X J, Cao B, Wang C Y, et al. In vivo photothermal inhibition of methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus infection by in situ templated formulation of pathogen-targeting phototheranostics[J]. Nanoscale, 2020, 12 (14) : 7651-7659.
doi: 10.1039/d0nr00181c pmid: 32207761 |
[35] |
Jeon J R, Le T T, Chang Y S. Dihydroxynaphthalene-based mimicry of fungal melanogenesis for multifunctional coatings[J]. Microbial Biotechnology, 2016, 9 (3) : 305-315.
doi: 10.1111/mbt2.2016.9.issue-3 |
[36] | Zheng C, Huang J, Li T, et al. Permanent low-toxicity hair dye based on pregrafting melanin with cystine[J]. ACS Biomaterials Science & Engineering, 2022, 8 (7) : 2858-2863. |
[37] | Im K M, Kim T W, Jeon J R. Metal-chelation-assisted deposition of polydopamine on human hair: a ready-to-use eumelanin-based hair dyeing methodology[J]. ACS Biomaterials Science & Engineering, 2017, 3 (4) : 628-636. |
[38] |
Gao Z F, Wang X Y, Gao J B, et al. Rapid preparation of polydopamine coating as a multifunctional hair dye[J]. RSC Advances, 2019, 9 (35) : 20492-20496.
doi: 10.1039/c9ra03177d |
[39] |
Dong Y, Qiu Y, Gao D, et al. Melanin-mimetic multicolor and low-toxicity hair dye[J]. RSC Advances, 2019, 9 (58) : 33617-33624.
doi: 10.1039/c9ra07466j |
[1] | 柳婧璇, 金建明, 吴华. 化妆品植物原料(Ⅶ)——抗真菌的植物原料的研究与开发[J]. 日用化学工业(中英文), 2024, 54(3): 259-266. |
[2] | 胡翠翠, 周代红, 陈欣菀, 钟佳伶, 茆灿泉. 中药复方MHC-20的抗化脓性链球菌功效与作用机制探究[J]. 日用化学工业(中英文), 2024, 54(3): 282-289. |
[3] | 毕武, 潘小红, 涂晓琴, 殷帅, 孙辉. 基于网络药理学的化妆品原料粉防己抗敏作用机制分析[J]. 日用化学工业(中英文), 2024, 54(3): 305-312. |
[4] | 李瑶瑶. 异橙黄酮的抗衰老及抗氧化功效研究[J]. 日用化学工业(中英文), 2024, 54(3): 313-319. |
[5] | 张婉萍, 彭祺, 张冬梅, 郑时莲, 蒋汶, 顾理浩. 4-取代酚诱导化学性白斑的机制及研究进展[J]. 日用化学工业(中英文), 2024, 54(3): 320-328. |
[6] | 许梦然, 赵华. 化妆品晒后修护功效评价方法研究进展[J]. 日用化学工业(中英文), 2024, 54(3): 329-336. |
[7] | 塔娜, 冯孟鑫, 高家敏, 张凤兰, 王钢力. 潜在内分泌干扰风险防晒剂的监管及其使用情况分析[J]. 日用化学工业(中英文), 2024, 54(3): 337-343. |
[8] | 周文瑞, 贺建彪, 焦倩, 王紫迪, 苏芊芊, 贾焱. O/W乳化体系化妆品感官评价与仪器分析相关性研究进展[J]. 日用化学工业(中英文), 2024, 54(3): 344-352. |
[9] | 张丽媛, 颜琳琦, 程巧鸳, 戚绿叶, 王容, 黄柳倩. 高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中14种α-羟基酸和羟基酸酯[J]. 日用化学工业(中英文), 2024, 54(3): 353-359. |
[10] | 徐炜, 邹坡, 李长于, 杨铭, 鹿燕, 李慧良. 超高效液相色谱-串联质谱法测定化妆品中36种兴奋剂[J]. 日用化学工业(中英文), 2024, 54(3): 360-368. |
[11] | 周康夫, 支奕轩, 王飞飞, 尚亚卓. 新型乳化体系及其在化妆品中的应用(Ⅵ)——微乳液[J]. 日用化学工业(中英文), 2024, 54(2): 139-148. |
[12] | 张红菱, 程琳, 王海燕, 罗飞亚, 张会亮, 孙磊. 应用DPRA替代方法评价3种香豆素类化合物的皮肤致敏性[J]. 日用化学工业(中英文), 2024, 54(2): 156-160. |
[13] | 谢珍, 黄微, 张劲松, 陈舒怀, 瞿霖吉, 匡荣. 化妆品眼刺激性评价中角膜损伤生物标志物研究[J]. 日用化学工业(中英文), 2024, 54(2): 161-167. |
[14] | 李慧怡, 周悦, 吴谦, 杜丽镝, 谢嘉颖, 谭建华. 化妆品防晒黑功效评价方法研究[J]. 日用化学工业(中英文), 2024, 54(2): 168-174. |
[15] | 彭心宇, 梁海燕, 温紫娴, 李美停, 李鑫, 邱晓锋. 流变调节剂在二元喷雾产品中的影响[J]. 日用化学工业(中英文), 2024, 54(2): 181-187. |
|