头发与头皮护理的科学基础（Ⅲ）——头发的力学性能

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.03.003

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

力学性能的好坏是衡量头发健康与否的重要标准之一。健康的发束，头发力学性能优异，而受损发束会在日常梳理中发生断裂。然而，头发并非单一均质材料，因此对其力学性能进行系统、科学的表征较为复杂。基于此，本文介绍了头发力学性能的测试方法以及拉伸曲线的含义，阐述了头发内部结构和组成对拉伸性能的影响，列举了数种影响头发拉伸性能的因素并分析了市面上几种提升头发拉伸性能的原料及其作用机理，以期对护发产品中具有发丝强韧效果的成分以及新产品的开发提供参考。

关键词: 头发, 力学性能, 强韧

Abstract:

The strength of mechanical properties is one of the most important criteria to measure the health conditioner of the hair. In healthy hair bundles, hair fiber processes excellent mechanical properties, while damaged hair bundles can break during daily combing. However, hair fiber is not a homogeneous material, so it is complicated to characterize its mechanical properties systematically and scientifically. Based on this point, this paper summarizes the testing methods of hair mechanical properties and the meaning of tensile curves, describes the influence of hair internal structure and composition on tensile properties, lists several factors affecting hair tensile properties and introduces several commercially available ingredients to enhance hair tensile properties and their mechanisms of action. This review is expected to provide a reference for the development of new hair care actives and products with hair strengthening effect.

Key words: hair, mechanical properties, strengthen

中图分类号:

TQ658

吴雨闻, 卞筱颖, 岳岭佳, 常宽, 王靖. 头发与头皮护理的科学基础（Ⅲ）——头发的力学性能[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2023, 53(3): 260-270.

Wu Yuwen, Bian Marina, Yue Zoe, Chang Kuan, Wang Jing. Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care （Ⅲ）Mechanical properties of human hair[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(3): 260-270.

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变量/单位	定义
弹性模量（Mod-E）/GPa	弹性区域的弹性模量，等于[ELASTIC EMOD Pa]
弹性梯度（Grad-E）/GPa	根据弹性区域的斜率计算的模量，基于[弹性梯度，MPa/mm]。值相对于标称初始样本长度（30 mm）进行标准化。重新评级为GPa
弹性应变（Stre-E）/GPa	根据软件确定的弹性应变值的应力模量。根据[弹性应力，MPa]计算，对[弹性延伸]进行归一化，并重新换算为GPa
弹性（Stra-E）/%	确定弹性区域结束和屈服区域开始的应变率

变量/单位	定义
屈服区应力（PlatS-YR）/MPa	介于≈2%和≈30%应变之间的屈服区域的平均应力。等同于（PATEAU STRESS），为FCA标准下的屈服区载荷
屈服区应力（S15%-YR）/MPa	15%应变下屈服区的应力（FCA标准下）
屈服区应力（S25%-YR）/MPa	25%应变下屈服区的应力（FCA标准下）
屈服区应变（Stra-YR）/%	屈服区和后屈服区之间过渡的估算应变伸长率，弹性区域的端点应变和断裂应变之间的中点
特定功（Ws15%-YR）/（kJ/m²）	达到15%应变的特定功（FCA标准下的特定功）
特定功（Ws25%-YR）/（kJ/m²）	达到25%应变的特定功（FCA标准下的特定功）

变量/单位	定义
后屈服区模量（Mod-PYR）/MPa	后屈服区域的模量，根据应变归一化由后屈服区梯度计算
断裂强度（Mod-B）/MPa	根据断裂应变归一化的断裂应力计算
断裂应变（Stra-B）/%	断裂时的伸长率
特定韧性（Ts-B）/（MJ/m³）	断裂应变的特定韧性。根据断裂应变归一化的韧性计算