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日用化学工业（中英文）

日用化学工业 ›› 2022, Vol. 52 ›› Issue (4): 370-375.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.04.004

• 开发与应用 • 上一篇    下一篇

透明质酸钠的多重护发功效研究

胡晨毓1,曲文杰2,郭学平2,徐桂欣2,邹松岩2,王靖1,*()   

  1. 1. 江南大学 化工与材料工程学院,江苏 无锡 214122
    2. 华熙生物科技股份有限公司,山东 济南 250101
  • 收稿日期:2021-07-01 修回日期:2022-01-04 出版日期:2022-04-22 发布日期:2022-04-25
  • 通讯作者: 王靖
  • 基金资助:
    国家自然科学基金资助项目(51802123)

Study on multifunctional hair care efficacy of sodium hyaluronate

Hu Chenyu1,Qu Wenjie2,Guo Xueping2,Xu Guixin2,Zou Songyan2,Wang Jing1,*()   

  1. 1. School of Chemical & Material Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
    2. Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd., Jinan, Shandong 250101, China
  • Received:2021-07-01 Revised:2022-01-04 Online:2022-04-22 Published:2022-04-25
  • Contact: Jing Wang

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摘要：

目前透明质酸钠的功效研究仍集中于护肤领域,针对透明质酸钠护发功效的研究很少,特别是对于不同分子量透明质酸钠的护发功效研究尚未见报道。基于此,本文结合了头发力学性能、梳理性、摩擦力、含水量和抗毛躁等多种测试方法,系统研究了五种不同分子量和结构透明质酸钠在驻留型产品中的护发功效。结果表明,低分子透明质酸钠（分子量30~50 kDa）和超活透明质酸钠（分子量<5 kDa）具有更为显著的多重护发功效,包括修复受损发质、改善头发顺滑性及增强头发保湿、抗毛躁的功效。透明质酸钠的护发功效可能源于其与头发角蛋白的相互作用,而低分子和超活透明质酸钠的有效性与其在发丝中的高渗透性相关。并且,采用荧光标记透明质酸钠实验直接证明了低分子透明质酸钠可渗透到发丝内部。本文研究结果为不同透明质酸钠产品在护发领域的应用提供理论基础和数据支持。

关键词: 头发护理, 透明质酸钠, 水解透明质酸钠, 发质修复

Abstract:

Sodium hyaluronate is widely used in medicine and other fields because of its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiallergic and repairing effects. It has also been widely used as a favorable bioactive ingredient in cosmetics. However, the research on sodium hyaluronate in cosmetics has been focused on its application in skin care, while few study has been carried out on the hair care efficacy thereof. Particularly, the hair care efficacy of sodium hyaluronate with different molecular weight has not been reported until now. Herein, the hair care efficacy of five kinds of sodium hyaluronates with different molecular weight and structure was systematically studied based on the characterization of mechanical properties, combability, friction force, moisture content and smoothness of hair. Experimentally, natural hair and highly-damaged hair were treated by leave-on products containing 0.5% （w/%） sodium hyaluronate. The results indicated that hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate with lower molecular weight （30-50 kDa and less than 5 kDa） exhibited more significant multifunctional hair care effects. In detail, the tensile strength and elastic modulus of damaged hair can be significantly enhanced （up to 10%）, and the combing work and friction force of the hair can be reduced by over 20%. Moreover, the sodium hyaluronate treatment leads to improved moisturizing and anti-frizz property of hair. The water loss curve of hair bundle treated with sodium hyaluronate at 65 ℃ was significantly lower than that of the control group. And in the high-humidity environment, the change of hair bundle projection area after sodium hyaluronate treatment was also significantly less than that of the control group. The hair care effects of sodium hyaluronate could be possibly attributed to its interaction with hair keratin, and the effectiveness of low-molecular-weight sodium hyaluronate could be related to their enhanced penetration into hair fibers. In addition, the experiment with fluorescently labeled sodium hyaluronate directly proved that low-molecular-weight sodium hyaluronate could penetrate into the hair fibers. This study provides theoretical basis and data support for the application of sodium hyaluronate in hair care products.

Key words: hair care, sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, hair repair

中图分类号: 

  • TQ658