棕榈酰寡肽组合物延缓皮肤衰老的功效研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.04.009

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

以水解胶原蛋白、棕榈酰寡肽组成的肽类组合物—时光肽（Rejutime PTC）为研究对象,通过多种方法对其抵抗皮肤衰老的功效进行研究。结果显示,针对成纤维细胞（HDF-a）衰老模型,质量分数为0.125%~0.5%的PTC显著促进细胞增殖,并上调I型胶原蛋白（COL I）、III型胶原蛋白（COL III）和纤连蛋白的合成及分泌;针对角质形成细胞（NHEK）衰老模型,0.063%和0.25%的PTC处理细胞24~72 h可显著促进细胞增殖;对于真-表皮连接区（DEJ）的4种组成蛋白即层粘连蛋白-5、整合素β1、VII型胶原蛋白（COL VII）和IV型胶原蛋白（COL IV）,PTC质量分数为0.063%~1%能促进其合成及分泌。PTC作为一种新型化妆品添加剂,针对皮肤表皮层、DEJ、真皮层发挥延缓皮肤衰老的作用。

关键词: 化妆品添加剂, 棕榈酰寡肽组合物, 皮肤衰老

Abstract:

The anti-aging effect of Rejutime PTC, a peptide composition composed of hydrolyzed collagen and palmitoyl oligopeptide, was evaluated through different methods. The results show that PTC with a mass fraction of 0.125% to 0.5% could significantly promote cell proliferation and up-regulate the synthesis and secretion of type I, type III collagens and fibronectin after 24 to 72 h treatment on the aging model of fibroblasts （HDF-a）. On the NHEK keratinocytes aging model, 0.063% and 0.25% of PTC also significantly promote cell proliferation after treatment for 24 to 72 h. For the four constituent proteins of the dermal epidermal junction （DEJ）, namely laminin-5, integrin β1, type VII collagen and type IV collagen, PTC increase their synthesis and secretion at concentrations from 0.063% to 1%. PTC, as a new cosmetic additive, can play a role in delaying skin aging for skin epidermis, DEJ and dermis.

Key words: cosmetic additives, palmitoyl oligopeptide composition, skin aging

中图分类号:

TQ658

周春霞,周利丹,卢伊娜. 棕榈酰寡肽组合物延缓皮肤衰老的功效研究[J]. 日用化学工业, 2020, 50(4): 263-268.

ZHOU Chun-xia,ZHOU Li-dan,LU Yi-na. Study on the anti-aging efficacy of the palmitoyl oligopeptide composition[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2020, 50(4): 263-268.

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处理时间/h	细胞活性/%
	FBS处理组	无FBS处理组	无FBS + w（PTC）/%
	FBS处理组	无FBS处理组	0.125	0.25	0.5	1
24	120.0±9.2	100.0±2.9	114.5±1.2**	114.2±0.9**	111.7±2.3**	111.6±7.4*
48	136.4±8.4	100.0±3.5	133.0±3.0**	132.1±2.2**	124.8±1.8**	118.7±3.3**
72	144.6±7.0	100.0±7.1	149.2±6.2**	155.3±14.6**	146.7±4.2**	134.9±9.9**

处理时间/h	细胞活性/%
	FBS处理组	无FBS处理组	无FBS + w（PTC）/%
	FBS处理组	无FBS处理组	0.063	0.25	1
24	181.1±9.2	100.0±5.2	157.5±3.5**	150.4±1.5**	138.3±2.5**
48	214.5±3.6	100.0±9.3	152.7±6.0**	130.4±3.0**	106.9±4.4
72	246.7±12.9	100.0±7.9	211.5±4.2**	134.4±1.5**	111.8±14.6